Free Furniture Plans to Build a DIY Ikea Inspired Malm Twin Bed

A Brand New Knock-Off Plan for a Super-Easy Twin Bed

It has been a couple of months since I’ve created a new plan. This plan is a super easy knock-off that can be completed in a weekend. The free furniture plans to build a DIY Ikea Inspired Malm twin bed uses straight off-the-shelf boards and 1/4″ plywood to create a frame and panel headboard and footboard. The headboard and footboard can be left plain or stenciled to create a fabulous bed style that will fit in any decor style!

Free Furniture Plans to Build a DIY Ikea Inspired Malm Twin Bed - Featured

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1″ brad nails
  • 1-1/2″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools Needed:

  • Circular saw or table saw
  • Miter saw, optional
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor (or battery operated type)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 8 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×4 at 6′
  • 4 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×6 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×4 at 33″ – Headboard Frame
  • 2 – 2×4 at 44-1/2″ – Headboard Frame
  • 2 – 1/4″ plywood at 40″ x 44-1/2″ – Headboard Panels
  • 2 – 2×4 at 8″ – Footboard Frame
  • 2 – 2×4 at 44-1/2″ – Footboard Frame
  • 2 – 1/4″ plywood at 15″ x 44-1/2″ – Footboard Panels
  • 2 – 2×6 at 74-1/2″ – Side Rail
  • 2 – 1×4 (ripped to 3″ wide) at 74-1/2″ – Side Rail Top
  • 2 – 1×2 at 74-1/2″ – Slat Support
  • 15 – 1×3 at 38-1/2″ – Slats

Free Furniture Plans to Build a DIY Ikea Inspired Malm Twin Bed

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the headboard frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws

Cut the pieces for the front and back panels from the 1/4″ plywood. Secure the panels to the front and back of the headboard frame using glue and 1″ brad nails. Clamp until dry.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a DIY Ikea Inspired Malm Twin Bed - headboard-1

Free Furniture Plans to Build a DIY Ikea Inspired Malm Twin Bed - headboard-2

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the footboard frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws

Cut the pieces for the front and back panels from the 1/4″ plywood. Secure the panels to the front and back of the footboard frame using glue and 1″ brad nails. Clamp until dry.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a DIY Ikea Inspired Malm Twin Bed - footboard-1

Free Furniture Plans to Build a DIY Ikea Inspired Malm Twin Bed - footboard-2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the 2×6 side rails and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the side rails to the headboard and footboard positioning the rails 1-1/2″ in from the sides and 8-3/4″ up from the bottom (as indicated in the drawing) using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Do not use glue so the bed can be disassembled when needed.

Cut the pieces for the side rail top (the 1x4s will be ripped to 3″ wide). Secure these pieces to the top of the side rails using glue and countersunk 1-1/2″ screws.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a DIY Ikea Inspired Malm Twin Bed - side-rail-1

Free Furniture Plans to Build a DIY Ikea Inspired Malm Twin Bed - side-rail-2

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the slat supports. Position the supports on the side rails so that the bottom edge is flush with the bottom edge of the side rail. Secure the supports in place using countersunk 1-1/2″ screws. Do not use glue so that the pieces can be removed when the bed is disassembled.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a DIY Ikea Inspired Malm Twin Bed - slat-support

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the slats. Position the first slat on the supports positioning it approximately 1″ from the headboard. Secure in place with countersunk 1-1/2″ screws.

Add the remaining slats, spacing them approximately 2-1/2″ apart and securing them in place with countersunk 1-1/2″ screws.

iFree Furniture Plans to Build a DIY Ikea Inspired Malm Twin Bed - slats

Finish the bed as desired.

This bed would look fabulous in any finish – paint, stain or a combination of both! Have any questions about the free furniture plans to build a DIY Ikea Inspired Malm twin bed? Leave a comment below!




A Chunky Rustic Queen Bed

DIY Plans to Build a Waterton Queen Bed

This chunky, rustic bed is an easy build using straight off-the-shelf boards. The DIY plans to build a Waterton Queen Bed feature 2×12 rails, 4×4 posts, and 2×4 canopy stretchers. The side rails can be attached using pocket hole screws or bed hardware – your choice – and can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Waterton Queen Bed-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  •  1 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×12 at 6′
  • 2 – 1z12 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 4′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×3 at 6′
  • 2 – 2×3 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×4 at 6′
  • 2 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×12 at 4′
  • 2 – 2×12 at 8′
  • 4 – 4×4 posts at 8′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 4×4 at 82″ – Posts
  • 2 – 2×12 at 61″ – Headboard & Footboard
  • 2 – 2×3 at 61″ – Headboard & Footboard
  • 2 – 2×4 at 61″ – Upper Canopy Stretchers
  • 5 – 1×12 at 33-1/4″ – Headboard Planks
  • 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 2-3/8″ wide) at 33-1/4″ – Headboard Planks
  • 2 – 2×12 at 81″ – Side Rails
  • 2 – 2×3 at 81″ – Side Rails
  • 2 – 1×2 at 81″ – Slat Supports
  • 1 – 2×2 at 81″ – Center Support
  • 2 – 2×2 at 10-1/2″ – Center Support Legs
  • 13 – 1×3 at 61″ – Slats

DIY Plans to Build a Waterton Queen Bed

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the posts and the footboard. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Secure the 2×3 piece to the top of the 2×12 (with the back edges flush) using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the footboard assembly will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Waterton Queen Bed-Footboard

Step Two

Cut the piece for the upper canopy stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the top of the posts using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The back face will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Waterton Queen Bed-Upper Footboard Canopy Stretcher

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the headboard. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×3 and the 2×12 pieces. Secure the 2×3 and 2×12 pieces to the posts using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The front faces of the 2×3 and 2×12 pieces will be flush with the front faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Waterton Queen Bed-Headboard

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the 1×3 (ripped to 2-3/8″ wide) and 1×12 headboard planks. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the headboard plank pieces. Secure the plank pieces between the 2×3 and 2×12 pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the planks will be flush with the back faces of the 2×3 and 2×12 pieces.

DIY Plans to Build a Waterton Queen Bed-Headboard Planks

Step Five

Cut the piece for the upper canopy stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the top of the posts using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The back face will be flush with the front face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Waterton Queen Bed-Upper Headboard Canopy Stretchers

Step Six

Cut the 2×3 and 2×12 pieces for the side rails. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of the 2×12 pieces. Secure the 2×3 piece to the top of the 2×12 (with the back edges flush) using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Secure the side rails to the posts using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. DO NOT USE GLUE!

If using bed hardware, pocket holes will not have to be drilled in each end  of the 2×12 pieces.

DIY Plans to Build a Waterton Queen Bed-Side Rails

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the upper canopy stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the top of the posts using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. DO NOT USE GLUE! The back face will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Waterton Queen Bed-Upper Canopy Stretchers

 

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the slat supports. Secure the supports to the side rails as shown (6″ down from the top) using countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. DO NOT USE GLUE!

DIY Plans to Build a Waterton Queen Bed-Slat Supports

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the center support and the support legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the support piece and one end only of each leg. Secure the legs to the support using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the support assembly to the headboard and footboard using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. DO NOT USE GLUE!

DIY Plans to Build a Waterton Queen Bed-Center Support

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the slats. The slats are spaced approximately 4″ apart. Secure the slats to the slat supports and the center support using countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. DO NOT USE GLUE!

DIY Plans to Build a Waterton Queen Bed-Slats

Finish as desired.

This bed would be easy to adjust for other mattress sizes, if necessary. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Waterton Queen Bed? Leave a comment below!




A Simple to Build Twin Bed

DIY Plans to Build a Delilah Twin Bed

This simple bed is very easy to construct and is perfect for those new to woodworking or those who just want to take on an easy project. The DIY plans to build a Delilah bed use off the shelf boards and have narrow pieces on the headboard and footboard. Though there are a lot of pocket holes to drill, they are easily filled using a product such a Dry-Dex (if the bed will be painted) or a wood filler.

DIY Plans to Build a Delilah Twin Bed-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-3/4″ brad nails
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 9 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 3 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×12 at 4′
  • 2 – 2×4 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×4 (ripped to 2-3/4″ wide) at 52-1/2″ – Headboard Legs
  • 2 – 1×3 at 38″ – Headboard & Footboard Framing
  • 2 – 1×6 at 38″ – Headboard & Footboard Framing
  • 2 – 1×3 at 45″ – Headboard & Footboard Top Trim
  • 8 – 1″ strips (ripped from 1×12) at 34-1/2″ – Headboard Framing Spindles
  • 2 – 2×4 (ripped to 2-3/4″ wide) at 28-1/2″ – Footboard Legs
  • 8 – 1″ strips (ripped from 1×12) at 10-1/2″ – Footboard Framing Spindles
  • 2 – 1×6 at 78″ – Side Rails
  • 2 – 1×2 at 78″ – Side Rail Slat Support
  • 13 – 1×3 at 40″ – Slats

DIY Plans to Build a Delilah Twin Bed

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs. The 2×4 pieces will be ripped to 2-3/4″ wide.

Cut the pieces for the headboard framing. For the framing spindles, cut the 1×12 into 1″ strips then cut them to length.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Drill two pocket holes in each end of the 1×3 and 1×6 pieces, and one pocket hole in each end of the framing spindles. Assemble the headboard as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the framing pieces will be flush with the back faces of the legs.

Cut the piece for the top trim. The back edge of the top trim will be flush with the back face of the framing and legs, and will overhang the sides by 3/4″. Secure the trim in place with glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Delilah Twin Bed-Headboard

Step Two

The footboard is constructed in exactly the same manner as the headboard – the legs and framing spindles are shorter!

Fill the pocket holes in the headboard and footboard with filler. Let the filler dry and then thoroughly sand.

DIY Plans to Build a Delilah Twin Bed-Footboard

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the side rails and the side rail slat supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side rails. Secure the slat support to the side rail as indicated in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4″ screws.

Secure the side rails to the headboard and footboard using 2″ pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue – this way the bed can be disassembled if necessary. The outside face of the side rail is located 3/4″ back from the side edge of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Delilah Twin Bed-Side Rails 1

DIY Plans to Build a Delilah Twin Bed-Side Rails 2

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the slats. The slats are spaced approximately 3-1/2″ apart. Secure the slats to the slat supports using 1-1/4″ screws. DO NOT use glue.

DIY Plans to Build a Delilah Twin Bed-Slats

Finish as desired.

This bed would be perfect for a kid’s room or a guest room, and would make a perfect gift like the one I made for my daughter! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Delilah Twin Bed? Leave a comment below!




A Simple to Build Queen Platform Bed

DIY Plans to Build a Modern + Rustic Platform Bed (Queen)

Looking for an easy to build platform bed frame? The DIY plans to build a Modern + Rustic Platform Bed fits that bill perfectly! The bed uses straight off-the-shelf lumber, is super -sturdy, and really easy to build. This is a fabulous plan for those new to woodworking and will make an excellent first project!

DIY Plans to Build a Modern+Rustic Queen Platform Bed_Copy

DIY Plans to Build a Modern+Rustic Queen Platform Bed_Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 21 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×4 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×4 at 8′
  • 5 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 5 – 2×2 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 62″ – Base Leg Framing
  • 4 – 2×2 at 10″ – Base Leg Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 7″ – Base Leg Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 82″ – Base Framing Rails
  • 2 – 1×4 at 85″ – Rails
  • 2 – 1×4 at 63-1/2″ – Rails
  • 2 – 1×2 at 83-1/2″ – Bed Slat Framing
  • 2 – 1×2 at 62″ – Bed Slat Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 79″ – Center Support Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 11-1/2″ – Center Support Framing
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8-1/2″ – Center Support Framing
  • 21 – 1×3 at 63-1/2″ – Slats

DIY Plans to Build a Modern+Rustic Queen Platform Bed

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the base leg framing. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces, and the shortest piece as shown. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Modern+Rustic Queen Platform Bed_Base Leg Framing

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the base framing rails and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the rails to the leg framing using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Modern+Rustic Queen Platform Bed_Base Rails

Step Three

Cut the pieces for rails. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece, as well as each end of the shorter pieces. Secure the longer rails to the base framing rails using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The outside face will be flush with the outside face of the base framing rails.

Secure the shorter rails between the longer rails securing in place using 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws.  Do not use glue! The shorter pieces will be flush with the outside face of the base framing.

DIY Plans to Build a Modern+Rustic Queen Platform Bed_Rails 1

DIY Plans to Build a Modern+Rustic Queen Platform Bed_Rails 2

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the slat supports. Secure the longer slat supports to the inside of the 1×4 rails – they will rest on the base framing rails – using 1-1/4″ screws.

Secure the shorter slat supports between the longer supports in the same manner as the longer rails, resting on the base leg framing.

DIY Plans to Build a Modern+Rustic Queen Platform Bed_Slat Frame 1

DIY Plans to Build a Modern+Rustic Queen Platform Bed_Slat Frame 2

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the center support framing. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces and the shortest piece. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the center support framing to the inside of the base leg framing using 2-1/2″ screws through the outer leg of the center support framing into the center leg of the base leg framing.

DIY Plans to Build a Modern+Rustic Queen Platform Bed_Center Support Frame 1

DIY Plans to Build a Modern+Rustic Queen Platform Bed_Center Support Frame 2

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the slats. The slats are spaced approximately 1-1/2″ apart and starting 1/2″ from the head and foot rails. Secure the slats using 1-1/4″ screws. Wider plywood planks can be used, as well, as long as there are ventilation holes drilled in the pieces (mattresses have to breathe!).

DIY Plans to Build a Modern+Rustic Queen Platform Bed_Slats

Finish as desired.

The bed frame is easily customizable to a different size of mattress. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Modern + Rustic Platform Bed? Leave a comment below! Also, if you build from this or any other plans, please share photos! I would love to see your work!




A Fabulous Modern Twin Bed

DIY Plans to Build Hannah’s Twin Bed

My daughter has been asking for a new bed and since I was actually in the mood to build a bed, I happily obliged! The DIY plans to build Hannah’s Twin Bed feature a planked headboard with a low footboard (her request so that her blankets wouldn’t bunch at the end of the bed!). The headboard planks are framed with 2×2 lumber. This bed is a super-cheap build and can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Twin Bed_Featured

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Twin Bed_Copy

For this bed, we will not be using a foundation – she likes it that way!

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 11 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×6 at 4
  • 5 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 3 – 2×2 at 6′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×2 at 14″ – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – 1×6 at 38-1/2″ – Footboard Panel
  • 2 – 2×2 at 44″ – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – 2×2 at 38-1/2″ – Headboard Frame
  • 1 – 1×6 at 38-1/2″ – Headboard Frame
  • 7 – 1×6 at 28-1/2″ – Headboard Planks
  • 2 – 1×6 at 74″ – Side Rails
  • 2 – 1×2 at 74″ – Slat Supports
  • 18 – 1×2 at 40″ – Slats

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Twin Bed

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the footboard. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket hole sin each end of the footboard panel. Secure the footboard to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Twin Bed_Footboard

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the headboard. Starting with the 1×6 plans, drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown in the drawing. Assemble the planks using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×6 piece for the headboard frame. Secure to the bottom edge of the planks using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 headboard frame piece. Secure this piece to the top edge of the planks using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front face of the planks will be flush with the front edge of this framing piece.

Secure the entire assembly to the legs. Use 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws through the 2×2 piece into the legs and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the planks and 1×6 headboard framing piece.

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Twin Bed_Headboard

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the side rails and the slat supports. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece.

Secure the slat support to the inside of the side rails (the same side as the pocket holes) using glue and 1-1/2″ screws.

Secure the side rails to the headboard and footboard using 2″ pocket hole screws. DO NOT USE GLUE! Use care when installing the screws because if they are sunk too deep in the pocket hole, they may poke out of the side of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Twin Bed_Side Rails

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Twin Bed_Slat Supports

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the slats. Secure the slats, evenly spaced, to the slat supports using 1-1/2″ screws. DO NOT USE GLUE!

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Twin Bed_Slats

Finish as desired.

I decided to finish the bed in white paint with grey stained planks. I stained the planks first, taping off the framing areas, then painted the rest of the bed.

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Twin Bed_Finished Side

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Twin Bed_Finished Headboard

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Twin Bed_Finished View

The planks in the bed can be finished any way you choose! I considered stenciling the planks but decided I would let my daughter choose! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build Hannah’s Twin Bed? Leave a comment below.




Build a Beautiful Rustic Bed with Metal Details

DIY Plans to Build a Rustic Metal Strap Queen Bed

Designed to resemble an old trunk, this bed looks much more complicated than it really is… The DIY plans to build a Rustic Metal Strap Queen Bed feature a total of six drawers (three on each side) as well as metal strap details. The straps are actually pieces of 2″ wide aluminum bar that can be spray painted prior to installation. The drawers span almost half of the width of the bed for plenty of extra storage and little wasted space!

DIY Plans to Build a Rustic Metal Strap Queen Bed_Copy

 

The drawers are drawn to use 30″ drawer slides. They can be a bit pricey so do a quick Google search or visit eBay for the best deal! If the 30″ slides are out of the budget, the drawers can be shortened and shorter drawer slides can be used.

The plan is also drawn to use slats, assuming the user is using a foundation under the mattress. Three pieces of plywood can be placed along the width of the bed (with ventilation holes drilled in them) for a platform style bed.

The drawer framing is attached to the lower edge of the headboard and footboard. Large metal L-brackets attached to the headboard or footboard and the top edge of the drawer framing will offer additional support.

The aluminum bar can be cut with a jigsaw and a metal blade or a bandsaw with a metal blade. Use a file to smooth the edges of each piece!

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • 4 large metal L-brackets
  • 6 – 8′ pieces of 1/8″ x 2″ aluminum bar
  • 3/4″ screws to secure the metal detail
  • 6 sets of 30″ drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 13 – 1×3 at 6′ (or 3 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood for a platform style)
  • 8 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×8 at 8′
  • 11 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×4 at 6′
  • 11 – 2×8 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 63″ – Headboard Framing
  • 8 – 2×8 at 63″ – Headboard Planks
  • 2 – 2×2 at 63″ – Footboard Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 25-1/2″ – Footboard Framing
  • 3 – 2×8 at 63″ – Footboard Planks
  • 5 – 2×2 at 82-1/2″ – Drawer Framing
  • 12 – 2×2 at 7″ – Drawer Framing
  • 2 – 1x material ripped to 3/4″ wide (wide enough that two 3/4″ pieces can be safely ripped away on the table saw) at 82-1/2″ – Slat Support
  • 13 – 1×3 at 63″ – Slats
  • 4 – aluminum bar at 25-1/2″ – Metal Detail (Footboard)
  • 16 – aluminum bar at 4″ – Metal Detail (Footboard)
  • 10 – aluminum bar at 1-3/4″ – Metal Detail (Footboard)
  • 4 – aluminum bar at 63″ – Metal Detail (Headboard)
  • 28 – aluminum bar at 4″ – Metal Detail (Headboard)
  • 16 – aluminum bar at 1-3/4″ – Metal Detail (Headboard)
  • 1 – 1×2 at 82-1/2″ – Drawer Framing
  • 8 – 2×4 at 30-3/4″ – Drawer Slide Spacers
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 23″ x 28-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 12 – 1×6 at 28-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 12 – 1×6 at 24-1/2″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 6 – 1×8 (ripped to 6-3/4″ wide) at 25-1/4″ – Drawer Fronts

DIY Plans to Build a Rustic Metal Strap Queen Bed

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the headboard and the footboard. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces (the top and bottom pieces) as well as the planks as shown. Assemble the headboard and footboard using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Drill the pocket holes in the planks so they line up – the goal is to position the aluminum over the pocket holes so they won’t have to be filled so be strategic in drilling the pocket holes!

Metal Strap Bed_Footboard

Metal Strap Bed_Headboard

 

 

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the drawer framing. The center section of the drawer framing will have a 1×2 at the top instead of a 2×2 to allow for the slats or plywood platform. Drill pocket holes in each end of eight of the shorter 2×2 pieces. Assemble the outer drawer frames using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the slat supports. Rip these pieces from a board wide enough to do it safely on a table saw (multiple 3/4″ square dowels can also be used). Pre-drill the holes for the screws, then secure the supports to the upper 2×2 on the framing, locating the supports 3/4″ down from the top face, using glue and 1-1/2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Rustic Metal Strap Queen Bed_Outer Framing

DIY Plans to Build a Rustic Metal Strap Queen Bed_Outer Framing Slat Support

Step Three

Drill pocket holes in one end only of the remaining four shorter 2×2 framing pieces. Secure these pieces to the remaining 2×2 using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Secure the 1×2 to the top using glue and countersunk 1-1/2″ screws through the 1×2 into the ends of the 2x2s.

DIY Plans to Build a Rustic Metal Strap Queen Bed_Center Framing

Step Four

Cut the 2×4 pieces for the drawer slide spacers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the 2×4 pieces to the drawer framing pieces using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Glue is optional – if the drawer framing will need to be taken apart in the future, do not use it!

DIY Plans to Build a Rustic Metal Strap Queen Bed_Drawer Slide Spacers

Step Five

Secure the drawer framing to the headboard and the footboard using 2-1/2″ screws through the 2×4 spacers and the outer (shorter) 2×2 framing pieces. DO NOT USE GLUE!

Large L-Brackets can be used to further secure the headboard and the footboard to the drawer framing.

Cut the pieces for the slats and secure them to the slat supports and center framing with screws. If using plywood as a platform, cut three pieces at 27-1/2″ x 63″. Use a hole saw to cut ventilation holes in each panel. The panels will rest on the side slat supports and the center framing.

DIY Plans to Build a Rustic Metal Strap Queen Bed_Connecting Drawer Frame

DIY Plans to Build a Rustic Metal Strap Queen Bed_Slats

Step Six

Cut the pieces of aluminum bar for the metal detail. Use a file to smooth the edges of the aluminum. Drill holes in the aluminum to secure the pieces to the headboard and footboard. The pieces are positioned to cover the pocket holes so they won’t have to be filled. Also, the smallest pieces (1-3/4″) are to be positioned on the top and side edges of the headboard and footboard. This is so the metal looks as if it wrapping around the wood.

The aluminum pieces and screws can be primed and spray painted. I recommend using red oxide primer as it helps the paint stick to the metal much better than without primer!

DIY Plans to Build a Rustic Metal Strap Queen Bed_Straps

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Rustic Metal Strap Queen Bed_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Rustic Metal Strap Queen Bed_Drawer FB

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pulls. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Rustic Metal Strap Queen Bed_Drawer Fronts

Finish the bed as desired!

For even further security, the headboard can be secured to the wall with smaller metal L-Brackets. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Rustic Metal Strap Queen Bed? Leave a comment below!




A Plain Headboard to Customize to Fit Your Style

DIY Plans to Build a Monica Sideboard

Are you in the market for a new headboard? The DIY plans to build a Monica Headboard are plain and simple – the detail and finishing are entirely up to you! The headboard can be stenciled, painted, stained, decoupaged, upholstered, or even made beautiful with the glue-resist technique! A router and a decorative bit will be used to create the upper trim. The plans are written for a queen headboard but other sizes can be made with just a few adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Monica Headboard_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

For a Queen sized headboard:

  • 1 – 1×4 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×6 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×4 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×4 at 51-1/4″ – Legs
  • 1 – 2×4 at 58″ – Lower Stretcher
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 32″ x 58″ – Headboard Panel
  • 1 – 1×4 at 65″ – Top Trim
  • 1 – 1 x at 1″ wide (cut from 1×6) at 65″ – Trim
  • 1 – 1x at 2-1/4″ wide (cut from 1×6) at 65″ – Trim

DIY Plans to Build a Monica Headboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, stretcher, and panel. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher. Secure the stretcher to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in the side edges of the panel. Secure the panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front face of the panel will be flush with the front face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Monica Headboard_Panel & Stretcher

Step Two

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the top of the legs and the panel using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Monica Headboard_Top

Step Three

Cut the 1×6 board to ” long. Using the router and a decorative bit of your choice, cut a decorative edge on each long side of the board. Rip a 1″ wide piece off of the 1×6 for one of the trim pieces, then rip the remaining piece to 2-1/4″ wide. See this post for more information on making your own trim!

Secure the wider trim to the front of the headboard under the top using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails, then layer the narrower piece on top.

DIY Plans to Build a Monica Headboard_Header Trim

Finish as desired.Secure the headboard to the wall or the bed frame. If securing the headboard to the bed frame, additional holes may have to be drilled.

To make the headboard wider for a king size, add 16″ in length to the top, trim, stretcher, and the length of the panel. To make the headboard narrower for a full size bed, subtract 6″ in length from the top, trim, stretcher, and the length of the panel. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Monica Headboard? Leave a comment below!




An Easy to Build Headboard Using Unexpected Pieces

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors

I scored a bunch of old cabinet doors at my local Habitat for Humanity ReStore for a dollar each. They are in really great condition and since I am in the process of updating my bedroom, I thought I’d use them for a nifty project… Let me show you how to build a headboard with old cabinet doors!

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors DSCF2254 copy

My headboard looks quite small for my bed – the bed is king-size and is on a wall with two windows so the headboard had to be made to fit between the windows. The headboard can be made for any size bed so there are no overall dimensions given. If I change my mind on the headboard down the road, it will actually be the perfect size for a full-size bed! The headboard is also made to be light and decorative, not thick and chunky. It does not project past the window sills in my room and it is attached to the wall. The bed is then butted up against the wall.

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors DSCF2292

Materials:

  • 2 or 3 – Old cabinet doors measuring the same size (a different style on each would be awesome as long as the overall size is the same!)
  • 1×4 & 1×6 lumber (the number of boards will depend on the size of the headboard and the size of the cabinet doors)
  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 12 – 3/4″ x 3″ mending plates with screws
  • Router with a decorative bit
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper
  • Stain and sealer, or paint

Here are the standard widths of mattresses for quick reference:

  • Twin – 39″
  • Full – 54″
  • Queen – 60″
  • King – 76″

The cabinet doors I used measure 16-1/2″ x 21-1/2″. The overall height of my headboard is 45″ and the width is 56″ to fit between the two windows. From the bottom of the headboard legs to the bottom of the headboard panel is 20″. The upper framing piece for the headboard is wider than the lower framing piece by 3/4″ to allow for the trim I wanted to add and to keep the framing pieces balanced. I know that the headboard is narrower than the bed – if I made the headboard to fit the width of the bed, it would block the windows which is not a good thing in the event of an emergency!

Determine the overall height and width of the headboard. Measure the height of the bed from the floor to just below the top of the mattress. Measure the cabinet doors and subtract the height (because the doors will be positioned lengthwise) of both doors from the overall width of the headboard.

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors

Measure the height of the doors. Subtract the width (the shorter measurement – remember, the doors will be laying on their sides!) of the doors plus 20-3/4″ from the overall height of the headboard. The remaining amount will be filled in by boards that will frame the doors. For example, I wanted my headboard to measure 45″ tall and my cabinet doors measured 16-1/2″ at the shorter edges. I subtracted 16-1/2″ plus 20-3/4″ from the height of the headboard which equaled 7-3/4″. I cut boards equal to 7-3/4″ wide (one at 3-1/2″ and one at 4-1/4″) for the frame.

I used 1×6 boards for the legs and sides of the frame. I cut these pieces at 44-1/4″. The legs can also be cut from narrower lumber, if desired. The center piece is a 1×6 ripped to 4″ wide. I assembled the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors DSCF1793

The edges of the doors I used were relatively thin so I could not drill pocket holes in the edges of the doors to secure them in the frame. I used 3/4″ x 3″ metal mending brackets to secure the doors in place on the reverse side. the back faces of the doors will be flush with the back face of the frame.

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors DSCF1790

I made the trim for the top of the headboard by using a router with a decorative bit. I routed both edges of a 1×6 board that was cut to 56″ long. I used my table saw to cut one piece of the trim at 2-1/4″ wide and the other cut at 3/4″ wide. The wider trim piece was secured to the top of the frame with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. (The routed edge faces down). The narrower trim piece is secured under the top trim to the upper part of the headboard frame.

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors DSCF1791

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors DSCF1792

Since I decided to paint the headboard, I used paintable caulk to fill any gaps between the doors and the frame.

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors DSCF2259

The headboard is secured to the wall studs with screws. (Sorry – it is so hard to photograph it indoors because of the windows!)

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors DSCF2290

I love it! It fits the space perfectly and really looks nice between the windows. The headboard was very easy to construct and I had it assembled in a day. I think it would look fabulous with three doors in a row or maybe even four narrow doors so that it looks as if it has four panels! If there are any questions about how to build a headboard using old doors, leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com! If you decide to build your own, I would love to see photos!

Sharing with: My Repurposed Life




Build an August Queen Bed

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed

This is a plain, simple, and inexpensive bed. The DIY plans to build an August Queen bed are a platform style, which eliminates the need for box springs. (Box springs can be used but the bed will sit really high!) The plans are written for a queen size and easy alterations can be made for Full or King.

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 14 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 3 – 1×6 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 5 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×6 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×8 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×2 at 33″ – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – 2×2 at 59″ – Headboard Frame
  • 1 – 2×2 at 62″ – Headboard Frame
  • 1 – 2×6 at 59″ – Headboard Frame
  • 3 – 1×2 at 18″ – Headboard Frame
  • 3 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 58″ – Headboard Front
  • 2 – 2×2 at 13-1/2″ – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – 2×2 at 62″ – Footboard Frame
  • 1 – 2×6 at 59″ – Footboard
  • 3 – 2×8 (ripped to 7″ wide) at 79″ – Rails
  • 4 – 1×2 at 13″ – Center Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 79″ – Slat Supports
  • 40 – 1×3 at 28-3/4″ – Slats

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the headboard. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in one end of each leg, both ends of the 59″ frame piece, and each end plus one long edge of the 2×6 piece. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 pieces. Secure the 1×2 pieces to the 2×2 pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the 1×2 pieces will be flush with the back faces of the frame.

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Headboard 1

Step Two

Cut the 1×6 pieces (ripped to 4″ wide) for the headboard front. Secure to the 1×2 frame pieces as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. The screws can be placed through the front of the pieces or through the 1×2 pieces into the back of the front headboard pieces.

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Headboard 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the footboard. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in one end of the legs and both ends as well as one long edge of the 2×6 piece. Assemble the footboard using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Footboard

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the rails and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the headboard and footboard as shown using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue – the bed may have to be disassembled someday!

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Rails

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the center legs. Secure the legs to each side of the center rail (locating them 2-1/4″ down from the top edge of the center rail) using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Center Legs

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the slat supports. Secure to the inside of each of the side rails as well as each side of the center rail using countersunk 2-1/2″ screws. The supports will be positioned 3/4″ down from the top edge of the rails. DO NOT use glue!

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Slat Supports

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the slats. Secure to the slat supports (spacing them approximately 1-1/2″ apart) using countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. DO NOT use glue!

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Slats

Finish as desired!

To change the width of the bed for Full or King, just change the length of all of the horizontal pieces – the headboard and footboard frames, as well as the slats. So easy! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build an August Queen bed? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Timberland Bed

Build a Fabulous Bed with the Timberland Queen Bed Plans!

I like the rustic simplicity of this bed – plain in style and construction. The Timberland queen bed plans are constructed with planked 1×10 lumber and the upper canopy frame is completely optional – the legs for the headboard and footboard can be cut off, if desired! The plans are drawn for a queen bed. Adjustments for larger or smaller mattresses are as easy as changing the length of the boards.

timberland queen bed plans-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • Key hole bed rail brackets (like these)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • x – 1×3 at 6′
  • 6 – 1×10 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×10 at 8′
  • 4 – 3×3 posts at 8′ *

*3×3 posts can be made by ripping 4×4 posts down on the table saw, or by laminating 2 – 2x4s together (for each post) and ripping on the table saw.

Cut List:

  • 4 – 3×3 posts at 86″ – Legs
  • 6 – 1×10 at 58″ – Headboard and Footboard
  • 2  -1×10 at 80″ – Side Rails
  • 2 – 1×2 at 77″ – Slat Supports
  • 1 – 1×2 at 81-1/4″ – Center Slat Support
  • 2 – 1×2 at 10″ – Center Slat Support Legs
  • 2 – 1×3 at 58″ – Upper Frame
  • 2 – 1×3 at 80″ – Upper Frame
  • 12 – 1×3 at 60-1/2″ – Slats

 

timberland queen bed plans

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, the headboard, and the footboard. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×10 pieces. Attach to the legs as shown to create the headboard and the footboard using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The pieces are positioned 1/2″ back from the outside face of the legs.

timberland queen bed plans-HeadFoot

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the side rails and slat supports. Attach the slat supports to the bottom edge of each side rail using glue and 1-1/4″ screws. The bottoms of the pieces will be flush with each other. Install the bed rail brackets according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. The hardware will be positioned so it is flush with the inside face of the legs which should make it 1/2″ in from the outside face of the legs.

timberland queen bed plans-Side Rails

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the upper frame and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Glue can be used on the shorter pieces at the headboard and footboard but DO NOT use glue on the longer pieces so the bed can be dismantled!

timberland queen bed plans-Upper Frame

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the center support. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer piece, and one end only of the legs. Secure the legs to the longer piece using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the entire assembly at the lower center of the headboard and the footboard using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue!

timberland queen bed plans-Support

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the slats. Space the slats approximately 2-1/2″ apart and secure them to the supports using 1-1/4″ screws. DO NOT use glue!

timberland queen bed plans-Slats

Finish as desired!

 

These are the perfect plans for those new to woodworking! The bed would look great with a weathered grey finish or even painted a bright color. Have questions about the Timberland queen bed plans? Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

Disclaimer:

This post contains a link to a site of which I am an affiliate. What that means is if the think is clicked and a purchase is made, I receive a commission on that purchase!