Easy to Make Storage for Sewing or Embroidery Thread
I enjoy sewing and working on machine embroidery projects, and I have a large collection of thread! A few years ago, I built a cabinet specifically for my embroidery thread, but now I felt it was time to create something for my regular sewing thread. This DIY rotating thread stand is handy! It can hold 30 spools of my most frequently used thread colors, with an additional 9 cones on the top. Plus, the stand can be made taller to accommodate even more thread!
There are several options for the top design. It can feature taller spindles for a cone thread, like the one I made. Alternatively, the top can be left open for storing items such as scissors, rulers, and other supplies. Another option is to create a hinged top to store additional items, like sewing feet or other accessories while holding additional cones or spools of thread on top.
However you choose to make it, it is a very easy build and can be completed in a weekend!
Materials:
- Lazy Susan hardware <– affiliate link!)
- Drill with 1/4 inch bit
- Drilling Guide (<– affiliate link!)
- Brad nailer with 2″ brad nails
- Wood glue
- Small hinges, optional
Lumber:
- Scrap pieces of 1×6 and 1×8 (I used poplar scraps)
- 4 – 36 inch long dowels at 1/4 inch in diameter
Cut List:
- 2 – 1×8 at 8 inches – Front and Back
- 2 – 1×6 at 8 inches – Sides
- 1 – 1×6 at 5-3/4 inches long – Bottom
- 1 – 1×8 at 7-1/4 inches long
- 30 – 1/4 inch dowels at 3 inches long – for regular thread spools
- 10 – 1/4 inch dowels at 6 inches long – for cone thread
Notes About the Project:
- If making the stand taller, increase the length of the front, back and side pieces, then drill the holes for the dowels (you’ll probably need a couple of extra dowels, too!)
- Sand all pieces prior to assembly
- A drill press can be used instead of the drilling guide, if desired
- The stand can be stained or painted however you wish!
Step One
Cut the pieces for the front, back, sides and bottom. Mark the position of the holes for the dowels. I chose nine holes each on the front and back pieces, and six holes each on the side pieces.
The holes will be drilled at an angle, so set the drilling guide to drill holes at a 30° angle. The angle of the holes will all face the same direction – toward the top of the workpiece. Make sure you label the top edge of each piece!
The holes can be drilled all the way through the boards so make sure to have a scrap piece of wood underneath the pieces while drilling!
Step Two
Secure the sides to the bottom piece using glue and 2 inch brad nails, making sure the angled holes face the same direction (up toward the top!).
Next, secure the front and back to the sides and bottom using glue and 2 inch brad nails.
Step Three
Determine how you’d like to make the top. If you’re just adding more spindles for cone thread, mark the position for the holes but this time, the holes will be drilled perpendicular to the top piece, not at an angle.
For my revolving thread stand, I added a bit of overhang on all sides on the top so I could add a nice edge with my router. I also added a smaller piece of 1/4 inch thick scrap wood to the underside that fits inside the stand so the top won’t move. Mine shows a corner cut off but that’s because I was using a scrap piece that I already had – yours will be square! I secured it, centered on the underside of the top, using glue and 5/8 inch brad nails.
I use the cubby inside to store my thread nets (<– affiliate link!).
Finishing
Paint or stain the thread stand as desired. I used teak oil with a stain (by Watco, color Greystone) and left the inner cubby unfinished.
Once it was dry, I installed the lazy Susan hardware on the bottom and rather than attach a piece of wood to the bottom of the hardware, I used a round cork trivet with hot glue to secure it.
Adding the Spindles
I cut 30 pieces of the 1/4 inch dowel at 3 inches long. These pieces can be cut with a miter box and a handsaw or on the miter saw but there is a trick to it… A spacer needs to be used on the miter saw so that the dowels don’t chip or splinter.
Once all of the spindles have been cut, apply a bit of clear glue (I used Starbond <– affiliate link!) to each hole and add a dowel piece. They can be tapped in with a mallet if they’re a little tight!
I am absolutely thrilled with the revolving thread stand! It was so easy to make, and it is a great way to keep my most used thread colors close at hand while I’m sewing.
Have questions about how to make a rotating thread stand? Leave a comment below!
