A Large Chest With Scalloped Leg Detail
Here is another fabulous plan for a dresser with detailed legs… The DIY plans to build a scalloped leg dresser feature five drawers with scalloped front legs. Don’t be intimidated by the scalloped legs – they are easy to cut using a scrolling blade on a jigsaw or a 1/8″ blade on a bandsaw! This is a very easy build that can be completed in a weekend.
- 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws (<– affiliate link!)
- 1-1/4″ brad nails
- 5 sets of 18″ Drawer slides
- Cabinet pulls
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
- Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
- 6 – 1×2 at 8′
- 4 – 1×6 at 8′
- 1 – 2×2 at 6′
- 1 – 2×4 at 6′
- 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood
- 2 – 2×4 at 35-1/4″ – Front Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 35-1/4″ – Back Legs
- 4 – 1×2 at 18″ – Side Framing
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 29-3/4″ – Side Panels
- 8 – 1×2 at 27″ – Back Framing & Front Stretchers
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 27″ x 29-3/4″ – Back Panel
- 2 – 1×2 at 18″ – Stretcher Supports
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 28″ – Top Panel
- 2 – 1×2 at 20″ – Top Side Trim
- 1 – 1×2 at 31″ – Top Front Trim
- 5 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 24-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
- 10 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2″ wide) at 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
- 10 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2″ wide) at 26″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 5 – 1×6 at (ripped to 5-1/8″” wide) at 26-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts
Click on the drawings for a larger view!
Print the templates for the scalloped legs and tape the sheets together matching the registration marks. Cut out the template, then position the template on the pieces for the front legs aligning the straight edge with the edge of the board and trace around the template with a pencil. Cut the legs using a jigsaw with a scrolling blade ( a narrow jigsaw blade for cutting curves) or a bandsaw with a 1/8″ blade. See this tutorial for more information.
Cut the pieces for the back legs, the side framing, and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the panels to the legs and framing pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the legs and framing pieces. Note that there will be a right side and a left side.
Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and the back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the panel to the legs and framing pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the legs and framing pieces.
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the front legs as indicated in the drawings. Ideally, the stretchers will line up with the flat 3/4″ portions between the scallops on the front legs. Measure to make sure and if they don’t line up, it is ok! Secure the stretchers to the front legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the stretchers will be flush with the back edge of the front legs.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the lowest and uppermost stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top panel and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in one end only of the side trim pieces, as well as the side and front edges of the top panel. Secure the side trim pieces first, using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then secure the front trim piece. An edge can be routed on the trim using a router and a decorative bit.
The top will overhang the sides and front by 1/2″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the top into the framing and stretchers below.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the front stretchers. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.
Finish as desired!
The DIY plans to build a scalloped leg dresser is an easy build and the piece will look great in any room, with any finish. I would love to build this then use a dark stain… Have any questions? Leave a comment below!