A Cute and Curvy Dresser That Is Easy to Build!

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser

The curves on this simple dresser are so elegantly cute! The DIY plans to build a Celia Dresser feature curved lower edges on the front and sides, curved legs, and three drawers. I’ve included all of the templates to make cutting the curves easy-peasy! This project can be completed in a weekend.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 3 sets of 18″ drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×4 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×4 at 31-7/16″ – Legs
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 27-5/16″ – Sides
  • 1 – 1×6 at 29″ – Lower Front Apron
  • 5 – 1×2 at 29″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 21-1/2″ x 33″ – Top
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 23-7/16″ x 30-1/2″ – Back
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 18″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 26-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 3 – 1/4″ plywood at 17″ x 27″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 3 – 1×6 at 28-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces to length for the legs. Print the templates, align the registration marks and tape the sheets together. Cut along the lines with scissors, and position the template on the 2×4 with temporary spray adhesive. Cut the leg using a jigsaw or bandsaw.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the sides. Print the templates, align the registration marks and tape the sheets together. Cut along the lines with scissors, and position the template on the lower 5-1/2″ of the sides. Cut the curves using a jigsaw or bandsaw.

With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each long side edge. Secure the sides to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside faces of the panels will be flush with the inside faces of the legs. The curves on the lower part of the legs will face out!

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Sides

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the back stretchers to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back faces of the stretchers will be flush with the outside faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Back Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece to length for the lower front apron. Print the templates, align the registration marks and tape the sheets together. Cut along the lines with scissors, and position the template on the 1×6 with temporary spray adhesive. Cut the apron using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes in each side edge, and secure the piece to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front face of the apron will be flush with the front faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Front Apron 2

Step Five

Secure the front stretchers to the legs as shown in the drawing.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Front Stretchers

Step Six

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang the sides and front by 1/2″. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Top

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Back

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box sides on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Drawer Box 1

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Drawer Box 2

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight. 

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Drawer Box 3

Step Ten

Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box sides to the drawer box front using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them 3/4″ back from the front face of the legs. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Drawer Box 4

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Drawer Fronts

Finish as desired.

Not only can this piece be used as a dresser (for clothes) but it can be used as storage in a large bathroom, dining room, or entryway! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Celia Dresser? Leave a comment below!




Repairing a Damaged Dresser Top

Repair a Top to a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges

This post contains a couple of affiliate links. What this means is that if the link is clicked and a purchase is made, Designs by Studio C (DbSC) will receive a small commission. Thank you for supporting DbSC!

I’ve had this dresser for awhile and although it was covered with a heavy duty tarp (the kind that covers lumber when it is delivered to the home improvement store), the top veneer was heavily damaged. I’m almost ashamed to say that I built this dresser but it is what it is… Anyway, I had an idea to repair the top and add pieced trim to the edges in lieu of using edge banding, and I have to say this is probably my favorite project yet (next to this one)!

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges

I bought a package of scrap moulding at Hobby Lobby (actually, I bought several packages) because I thought it would add interest to the dresser with “pieced” or “patchwork” trim around the top. This worked out so well, I can’t wait to add pieced trim to another project!

I started by removing the damaged veneer from the top with a scraper. Then I decided to remove the top layer of the plywood since it was slightly damaged as well. This would also allow me to put a new piece of 1/4″ plywood on the top and keep the thickness at 3/4″ so the scrap moulding would fit along the edge properly. Matt used a prybar that he calls the “Big Wedgie” to remove the plywood layer and let me tell you, he is really good at picking wedgies, ha ha! It peeled away very easily.

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Removing Ply on Top

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Top with Ply Removed

I sanded the remaining plywood on the top as well as the edges to remove any adhesive from the edge banding. I cut a piece of 1/4″ plywood to fit the top (twice because “someone” can’t do simple math) then secured it in place with glue, clamps and 5/8″ staples which can be filled later. Ideally, contact cement would be better so that staples wouldn’t have to be used. If the 1/4″ piece is slightly bigger, a router with a straight bit can be used to cut the piece flush with the existing top. I got too excited and forgot to photograph this step…

Next, I added the strips of moulding along the front and sides. I centered the first piece, making marks on the top so that I had it in the correct position, then glued it in place with DAP® Rapid Fuse Wood Adhesive (this stuff is the BOMB!). I added strips of moulding on either side and when I got to the corners, I cut miters in the pieces with the miter saw to go around the corner then continued adding strips.

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Trim & Adhesive

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Centered Front Trim

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Fitting Side Trim

Once I had the front and side edges covered, I used a sander with 220 grit sandpaper to knock down any high spots where the trim pieces butted against each other. It made the transitions “flow” better…

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Mitered Corner

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Sides Sanded

I stained the top and the feet using a wood stain and sealer in one (that has since been discontinued – BOO!) in a dark brown color, then painted the body and drawer fronts of the dresser. I think the hardest part of this project was picking a paint color! I chose Deep Amazon by Clark+Kensington.

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Front View

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Angled Front View

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Top View

The top of this dresser was severely damaged. I removed the veneer and the first layer of the plywood then replaced it with 1/4

I’m so glad I decided to repair the top of the dresser and add pieced trim to the edges – I love the way it came out! This is the perfect way to cover exposed edges of plywood and I plan on doing it to many future projects. Have any questions about how to do it? Leave a comment below!




A Conversation About Fighting Hunger

This is a Sponsored post written by me on behalf of Walmart for SocialSpark. All opinions are 100% mine.

My daughter and I were having a conversation the other day about school and I was asking what she had for breakfast and lunch. After she told me she said,”Mom, did you know that for some kids at my school those are the only meals they have?” My heart dropped. I couldn’t imagine either of my children going hungry.

SANY2112

Did you know that according to the USDA, more than 50 million Americans live in food insecure households, and more than 16 million of those impacted are children? 

 


 photo c963a14b-1efd-4527-897b-16d3d680c81d_zps502db8e6.jpg
 

WalMart is working with Feeding America and ten of the most recognizable food companies in America this spring to launch the third chapter of the Fighting Hunger Together initiative, which will focus on reducing hunger across the nation. The initiative will offer $3 million in grants for hunger programs and create millions of meals for Feeding America food banks and their partners across the US during the month of April. 

How can you get involved? You can go online to vote and volunteer to fight hunger this spring with Walmart. Cast one vote per day for a Feeding America food bank or their partner agency in your local community. The 100 winning food banks or partner agencies will share $3 million in grants to fund hunger relief programs, and will be announced in May!

Help in the fight for hunger relief by casting your vote for a local food bank or volunteering at your local hunger relief organization, then stop back by here and Share comment on why you are voting and volunteering against hunger!

 

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A Beautiful Chalkboard For Organization and as Wall Art

DIY Plans to Build a Shuttered Chalkboard

I wish I had the wall space for one of these beauties… The chalkboard makes an excellent place to create to-do lists, meal menus, or to list important dates. It is also a great place to write message for family get-togethers or dinner parties! The doors will keep the notes or lists covered and out of sight. The DIY plans to build a Shuttered Chalkboard are some of the easiest plans to construct taking just a few hours from start to finish!

DIY Plans to Build a Shuttered Chalkboard_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 3/4″ screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • 3″ screws or auger anchors with screws (to secure the board to the wall)
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ chalkboard panel
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 10 – 1×3 at 6′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 22-1/2″ – Chalkboard Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 49-1/2″ – Chalkboard Frame
  • 10 – 1×3 at 49″ – Doors
  • 6 – 1×2 at 12-1/2″ – Doors

DIY Plans to Build a Shuttered Chalkboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the chalkboard frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Shuttered Chalkboard_Frame

Step Two

Fasten the chalkboard panel to the back of the frame using glue and 3/4″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Shuttered Chalkboard_Panel

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the doors. Lay the 1×3 pieces in two groups of five and secure the 1×2 pieces across them using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors on the frame. The doors will be positioned 1/4″ from the top and bottom of the frame, and 3/16″ in from each side. The doors can also be positioned so they are flush with the sides of the frame but the gap at the center (between the doors) will be wider.

DIY Plans to Build a Shuttered Chalkboard_Doors 1

DIY Plans to Build a Shuttered Chalkboard_Doors 2

Finish as desired. To hang the chalkboard, drive 3″ screws through the frame into the wall studs. If there are no wall studs where the chalkboard is to be hung, use auger anchors and the appropriate screws to secure the chalkboard.

The chalkboard would be a welcome addition in any room, and would be awesome for a kid’s room or in a family room. The chalkboard panel can also be replaced with a dry erase panel, if desired. Leave a comment below if there are any questions about the DIY plans to build a Shuttered Chalkboard!

Disclaimer:

This post contains an affiliate link. What that means is that if the link is clicked and a purchase made, I will receive a commission.




Build a Mailbox Post

Step Up Your Curb Appeal with a New Mailbox Post!

Generally, we give our homes and our yards a lot of attention. The house gets a new coat of paint, a transformation to the front door, or a fresh look to our shutters. The yard will get mowed, clipped, raked, fertilized, and watered which turns it into a lush, green oasis. But do we ever think about the mailbox and the post that holds it? I’ll be the first to admit that although I’ve painted the mailbox, the post is left looking a bit unattractive. Matt asked me to create plans to build a gorgeous new post for the mailbox. Sure, a new mailbox post can be purchased then sunk into the ground but it is a few bucks cheaper to build your own and customize it to reflect the style of your home!

build a mailbox post copy

The receptacle for the Rebel house (the rental that Matt and I have been remodeling) had a mailbox and a post that was way worse than mine. I did not take a “before” photo, so I will describe it to you… The box was rusty and had a magnetic covering on it featuring a “deer” scene. The post was a bent pipe that was leaning. In fact, Matt yanked it out of the ground with his bare hands! It was in very sad shape! Once the post was built, set into the ground, and painted, it made the Rebel house look like a million bucks all the way to the curb!

Materials:

  • 1 – 4×4 post at 8′ plus a scrap piece at 14″
  • 2-1/2″ Weather Resistant pocket hole screws (“Blue Kote”)
  • 1 scrap piece of treated 1×6 the length of the mailbox
  • 2″ exterior screws
  • Exterior screws to secure the mailbox to the shelf
  • 1 treated post finial or cap
  • Wood glue rated for exterior use
  • Paintable silicone caulk
  • Post hole digger (if a new hole is required)
  • Bag of quick-setting concrete
  • Level
  • Exterior paint and brush
  • Exterior screws to mount the mailbox

Cut List:

  • 1 – 4×4 at 79″ – Post
  • 1 – 4×4 at 14″ – Post Arm
  • 1 – 4×4 at 16-1/16″ – Arm Support
  • 1 – 1×6 cut to the length of the underside of the mailbox – Post Arm Shelf

Build a mailbox post

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Start be reviewing the guidelines from the US Postal Service. They have a specific height for the box from the curb to the underside which makes it easier for the carrier to reach it. You can find the guidelines HERE.

Step Two

For this plan, the main post will extend up above the mailbox to show off a finial. Cut the main post at 79″ which includes the necessary 2′ that will be cemented into the ground.

 build mailbox post_Post

Step Three

Cut the piece for the post arm. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill two pocket holes on each side of one end of the piece. Secure to the post as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ weather resistant pocket hole screws.

 build mailbox post_Arm

Step Four

Cut the piece for the arm support. The angles are each cut at 45 degrees. Drill two pocket holes at each end on each side of the piece. Secure as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ weather resistant pocket hole screws.

 build mailbox post_Support

Step Five

Measure the underside of the mailbox and cut the 1×6 piece to fit. Allow enough room for the door to open and close easily. Mount the piece on the arm using glue and 2″ exterior screws. Allow a space at the back of the shelf (at the post)  for the mailbox to fit.

 build mailbox post_Shelf1

Step Six

Use a drill bit at the same diameter of the screw in the bottom of the finial. Drill a hole about 3/4″ deep in the center of the top of the post, then screw in the finial. Use the paintable silicone caulk to fill the pocket holes.

 build mailbox post_Finial

Step Seven

Refer to the US Postal Service guidelines for the required location for the box, and dig a new hole if necessary. The hole should be a little deeper than the required 2′, and (obviously) bigger than the post itself. Mix and add the concrete according to the directions on the bag of quick-setting concrete. Check the post with the level, then let the concrete set.

 build mailbox post Photo09241335  build mailbox post Photo09241339  build mailbox post Photo09241400

Step Eight

Once the concrete is dry (usually in 24 hours), paint the post using the exterior paint of your choice. We used Valspar Exterior paint in White with a semi-gloss finish.

 build mailbox post Photo09251446  build mailbox post Photo09251445

Step Nine

Position the mailbox on the shelf and secure using exterior screws on the sides into the shelf.

 build mailbox post Photo09251538

Now that you’ve used your skills to build a new mailbox post, your mailbox will be the nicest on the block! Add a few gorgeous plants or flowers around the base and – voila! – you have just turned the style up to 10!

 




A Beautiful Lamp with a Walnut Base

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood

I love making and refurbishing lamps.  I love walnut wood, too! I had a few scraps of PureBond walnut plywood left over from one of the projects I create for them and decided that I really, really needed a lamp with a walnut base. Constructing a lamp base from the DIY plans to build a lamp base with plywood are super-easy. The plywood is joined together using 45° bevels in the edges of the pieces. It sounds hard but really isn’t!

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Finished

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
  • 1 – 1/4″ lamp pipe at 15-1/2″
  • 1 – replacement lamp cord with plug
  • 3 – 1/4″ lamp nuts
  • 1 – washer to fit the pipe
  • 1 – candelabra socket cover at 4″
  • 2 – check rings to fit on the ends of the socket cover
  • Lamp socket
  • Lamp shade of your choice

Lumber:

  • 1 – 2’x 2′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1/2″ plywood at 5″ x 12″ – Base Sides
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 5″ square – Base Top
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 4″ square – Base Bottom

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

To Build the Lamp Base:

Cut all of the plywood pieces to size. I used the table saw with the blade set at 45° to cut the bevels in each of the long ends of the base sides, as well as the top edge of each piece. A router with a 45° chamfer bit can also be used.

Cut 45° bevels in all four edges of the top. I used a compound miter saw to do this but a router with a 45° chamfer bit can also be used.

 Sorry for the “shady” photos… It is that time of year where my work table in partially shaded!

Lay the side pieces on a flat surface side by side with the bevels facing down. Place at least two or three rows of masking tape across the pieces with the ends of the tape extending past each side piece.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Apply Tape

Carefully flip the pieces over and apply glue to each bevel. Fold the pieces on each other creating a box and secure the tape. Let the piece dry.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Apply Glue

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Glued

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Taped Assembly

Mark the center of the top and bottom pieces, and drill a hole in each piece large enough for the lamp pipe to fit through. (This is not shown in the photos.)

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Top & Bottom

Fit the beveled top into the top of the base, trimming as necessary. Spread glue on the bevels, then position the top, securing it in place with masking tape. Let the piece dry.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Top

Place the bottom piece inside the bottom positioning it approximately 1″ up from the bottom. Secure the piece in place with 1-1/4″ brad nails through the sides. I did not photograph this step but I’m sure you get the idea!

Drill a hole in the lower back side of the base below the bottom. This is so the cord will not interfere with the bottom of the lamp.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Cord Hole

Thoroughly sand the base and fill any holes or gaps with wood filler. Stain and seal the base as desired.

Decorate the base with a stencil and paint, if you’d like… I cut a stencil out of vinyl then painted it with metallic white paint. A woodburning tool could be used to create a design (before staining) or even the glue-resist technique can be used.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Stencil

To Install and Wire the Lamp:

Thread the washer and one of the nuts onto the lamp pipe, then thread the pipe through the hole in the bottom and through the hole in the top. Place a check ring (face down) over the pipe, then thread a second nut on the pipe. The check rings will “frame” the socket cover helping to keep it in place.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Pipe Bottom

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Check Ring

Cover the socket cover with scrapbooking paper or spray paint the piece. This is where I like to have fun and add a pop of color! Thread the cover on the pipe, then add the second check ring (face down) and the remaining nut.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Socket Cover

Thread the wiring through the hole in the lower edge of the base, then through the pipe and pull it out of the top. Thread the socket cap onto the pipe. Tie an underwriter’s knot (which helps keep the cord from being yanked out of the socket) and attach the wiring to the socket terminals. Wrap the wiring in the same direction as the screw will tighten. Install the socket’s cover.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Socket Wiring

Install the lamp shade of your choice! Gorgeous!

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Finished

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Night Left

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Night Right

What do you think? The lamp can be constructed out of any species of wood like oak, cherry, even cedar! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a lamp base with plywood? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




How to Make a Framed Cork Board with Wine Bottle Corks

I made this board for Mr. Awesome for our anniversary representing some of the bottles of wine we’d shared over the past year. I thought I had enough corks but apparently not… This is still a work in progress!

Most wine bottle corks are no longer “cork”, they are rubber which works even better for this project since they are easier to cut!

Materials:

  • Wine bottle corks
  • Box cutter with a new blade
  • Frame with a wood back
  • Stain or paint for the frame
  • Hot glue gun and glue sticks

Let’s get started!

An existing frame can be used or a new one can be built. I used a frame from a cabinet door that I never finished. I routed a rabbet on the back side and glued a piece of 1/4″ lauan in the opening. I stained the frame then sealed it with polyurethane. I added a sawtooth hanger on the top and on the side so it could be hung vertically or horizontally, then added an antique-looking knob in the corner.

   

 Cut the corks in half. The rubber corks are very easy to cut but be careful!

    

Start gluing the corks  in place. Some of the corks are longer than others and small pieces will have to be trimmed to fit in the spaces but this adds to the rustic look I was trying to achieve!

    

If I hadn’t used such a large frame, this would not continue to be a work in progress! So I guess it may be a few more months before it is finally finished… Maybe for our next anniversary??

Until next time,

Happy Creating!

Tip Junkie handmade projects

 




Thread a Pipe for a Lamp – DIY Tutorial

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp

It is no secret that I love to refurbish old light fixtures. Sometimes the parts I need for a lamp are not readily available in local home improvement stores and that means that I have to get creative. I wanted to reuse a piece of brass pipe in a light fixture. It had threads on one end but it really needed them on both ends. After a bit of research, I found an easy technique that I could do myself… Let me show you how to thread a pipe for a lamp!

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp

I knew that I could use a die to cut threads on a pipe but I wasn’t sure what size I would need for a lamp. As I was looking online for a die, I ran across a die that is exactly what I needed from Tx Lamp Parts. They are awesome – they carry everything for lamp building and repair, their shipping rates are reasonable, and they are my newest obsession. I found parts in their store that sent my heart all a-flutter!

Most threaded pipe used in lamp making is 1/8″ – 27 NPT. What that means is the pipe size is 1/8″, there are 27 threads per inch, and NPT stands for National Pipe Taper. A tapered thread pipe will create a tighter seal and is generally used for gas lines, water lines, and apparently on lamps. Now you know, ha ha! It is need-to-know information especially when it comes to buying pipe!

So, for the die, a special die stock handle will be used. The die fits in the middle and is held in place with a set screw.

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp-Die and Handle

The pipe is placed in a vise to hold it steady. Do not crank the vice too tight – the pipe will get smashed! The die and handle will be positioned on the end of the pipe, perpendicular to the pipe, with the die markings facing the pipe. Pipe cutting oil should be used to help the threads cut easier, and also to protect the cutting edge of the die. Start slow turning the handle and die clockwise, keeping the handle and die perfectly perpendicular to the pipe until the threads start to cut. Continue turning the handle and die until the desired length of threads is reached. If the pipe starts turning in the vise, add more oil to the die.

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp-Pipe in vice

To remove the handle and die, turn in a counter-clockwise manner. This will remove any burrs on the threads so that anything that screws onto it will fit without a problem!

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp-Die on Pipe

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp-Back Side of Die

Super-easy, right? This tutorial will apply to any pipe needing threads, not just lamp pipe. This is the first time I’ve ever threaded a pipe and I couldn’t be more pleased with the results! Have you threaded pipe before? Have any questions about how to thread a pipe for a lamp? Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

Disclaimer:

I mentioned Tx Lamp Parts because they are awesome not because I was paid. 




How to Make a Framed Multi Organizer

How to Make a Framed Multi Organizer

My daughter has a small room and there is not enough space for her stuff! As we transition her room from “tween” to “teen”, I wanted to make things for her that reflect her style yet keep her room clutter-free – at least a little!

This framed multi organizer can be customized any number of ways. It can be for jewelry only with three mirrors and three organizer panels, or for “office” organizing with more magnetic and cork panels, the choice is up to you!

I chose to use one mirror, two punched aluminum panels (for earrings & necklaces), one corkboard, and two magnetic boards.

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0608 copy

Materials:

  • 2 – 1×2 lumber at 8′
  • Pocket hole jig & 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • Drill
  • Router with 3/8″ rabbeting bit
  • Sander & sandpaper in 80, 120, 220 grits
  • Finishing supplies
  • 1 – 12″ x 12″ mirror
  • 1 – 12″ x 12″ cork panel
  • 2 – 12″ x 12″ piece of hardware mesh or punched aluminum
  • 2 – 12″ x 12″ pieces of sheet metal
  • 4 – 12″ x 12″ pieces of cardboard
  • 3 – drawer knobs
  • Fabric of your choice
  • Spray adhesive
  • Framing tab gun or small nails

Start by cutting the pieces of lumber for the frame. Assemble the frame as shown (click on the picture to make it larger) using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

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Use the router to cut a rabbet in each inner frame, then thoroughly sand the frame starting with 80 grit, then 120 grit, and finally with 220 grit. Fill any holes or imperfections with filler, as desired.

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Paint or stain. I chose a white paint for this project. Apply any sealer as desired. (The kitty, Busy, was inspecting my work.)

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I primed the punched aluminum sheets with Rust-Oleum’s Rusty Metal Primer (the best, in my opinion, for priming metal!) then painted them with spray paint – Valspar in Frosty Berry. I also sprayed the sheet metal with spray adhesive and applied the fabric over it.

I started with the cork panel and added a piece of the cardboard behind it for stability. I secured the panels in place with the framing tab gun. A stapler would work, also, to secure the panels in place. The punched aluminum panels do not need cardboard behind them.

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I added drawer knobs to one of the punched aluminum panels to hang necklaces. I was able to screw the post of the knob into one of the holes then attach a washer and nut behind it. I cut off the remaining part of the post with bolt cutters as close to the nut as I could get.

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Attach to the wall with screws through the frame into the wall studs. Or attach soda can tabs to the back and attach the frame to the drywall using auger anchors. This frame is temporarily leaning against the wall in The Han’s room until I decide where I want to hang it.

Wow!

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This multi-organizer can be customized for a boy, as well, and is fabulous for organizing homework and artwork! Have any questions about the famed multi organizer? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




How to Change the Blade on a Miter Saw

Time for a Saw Blade Change!

Every once in a while, it is time to change the blade in the miter saw(or any saw for that matter). Not only does it make nicer cuts with a new blade but it also helps keep things safer!

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I noticed I was having a hard time with cuts on my saw – the ends of the lumber were getting chewed up and it was just more difficult to get a nicer cut. The last time I changed the blade was when I first got the saw (about 5 or 6 years ago) so it was definitely due!

A new blade will run in the neighborhood of $20.00. It sounds like a lot to some but I like to purchase a quality blade that will last longer especially since I use my saw nearly every day. If you don’t use your saw on a regular basis, a cheaper blade will work just fine!

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Start by making sure the saw is unplugged. No-brainer, I know, but safety can always be an issue with some! It wouldn’t hurt to peruse the manual that came with the saw. There may be some special “need to know” information about the saw in there!

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I removed the safety cover on the blade and set it aside.

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There is also a blade lock mechanism that will keep the blade from turning freely while the arbor is removed to change the blade. I use a clamp to hold the blade lock in place so I can use both hands to loosen the arbor (the bolt that holds the saw blade in place).

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The arbor in my saw was cranked on tight. I had to call in The Big Guns (i.e. my dad) to loosen the arbor for me. The arbor wasn’t cranked on really tight the last time I changed the blade – blade rotation and heat generated by the rotation can cause the arbor to tighten. We checked the manual and this is when we found out that the arbor was a “left hand thread”. That means that instead of  “righty-tighty, lefty-loosey”, it was exactly the opposite. So Dad wrote a little note on the saw for me…

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I also have a laser guide on the saw. It didn’t come with one and this is an after-market guide made by Irwin to fit most saws. I knew the batteries were dead and this would be the perfect opportunity to change them – but I was out of batteries… D’oh! I’ll just save that for another day! Once the arbor and the laser guide were removed, I removed the blade and cleaned a lot of the sawdust out of the housing.

I replaced the blade, the still-dead laser guide, and the arbor. Then I replaced the safety cover, plugged her in, and fired her up…

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Aaaaahhhh – smooth as silk!! Awesome!

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Until next time,

Happy Creating!