A Conversation About Fighting Hunger

This is a Sponsored post written by me on behalf of Walmart for SocialSpark. All opinions are 100% mine.

My daughter and I were having a conversation the other day about school and I was asking what she had for breakfast and lunch. After she told me she said,”Mom, did you know that for some kids at my school those are the only meals they have?” My heart dropped. I couldn’t imagine either of my children going hungry.


Did you know that according to the USDA, more than 50 million Americans live in food insecure households, and more than 16 million of those impacted are children? 


 photo c963a14b-1efd-4527-897b-16d3d680c81d_zps502db8e6.jpg

WalMart is working with Feeding America and ten of the most recognizable food companies in America this spring to launch the third chapter of the Fighting Hunger Together initiative, which will focus on reducing hunger across the nation. The initiative will offer $3 million in grants for hunger programs and create millions of meals for Feeding America food banks and their partners across the US during the month of April. 

How can you get involved? You can go online to vote and volunteer to fight hunger this spring with Walmart. Cast one vote per day for a Feeding America food bank or their partner agency in your local community. The 100 winning food banks or partner agencies will share $3 million in grants to fund hunger relief programs, and will be announced in May!

Help in the fight for hunger relief by casting your vote for a local food bank or volunteering at your local hunger relief organization, then stop back by here and Share comment on why you are voting and volunteering against hunger!


Visit Sponsor's Site

A Beautiful Chalkboard For Organization and as Wall Art

DIY Plans to Build a Shuttered Chalkboard

I wish I had the wall space for one of these beauties… The chalkboard makes an excellent place to create to-do lists, meal menus, or to list important dates. It is also a great place to write message for family get-togethers or dinner parties! The doors will keep the notes or lists covered and out of sight. The DIY plans to build a Shuttered Chalkboard are some of the easiest plans to construct taking just a few hours from start to finish!

DIY Plans to Build a Shuttered Chalkboard_Copy


  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 3/4″ screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • 3″ screws or auger anchors with screws (to secure the board to the wall)
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ chalkboard panel
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)


  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 10 – 1×3 at 6′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 22-1/2″ – Chalkboard Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 49-1/2″ – Chalkboard Frame
  • 10 – 1×3 at 49″ – Doors
  • 6 – 1×2 at 12-1/2″ – Doors

DIY Plans to Build a Shuttered Chalkboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the chalkboard frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Shuttered Chalkboard_Frame

Step Two

Fasten the chalkboard panel to the back of the frame using glue and 3/4″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Shuttered Chalkboard_Panel

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the doors. Lay the 1×3 pieces in two groups of five and secure the 1×2 pieces across them using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors on the frame. The doors will be positioned 1/4″ from the top and bottom of the frame, and 3/16″ in from each side. The doors can also be positioned so they are flush with the sides of the frame but the gap at the center (between the doors) will be wider.

DIY Plans to Build a Shuttered Chalkboard_Doors 1

DIY Plans to Build a Shuttered Chalkboard_Doors 2

Finish as desired. To hang the chalkboard, drive 3″ screws through the frame into the wall studs. If there are no wall studs where the chalkboard is to be hung, use auger anchors and the appropriate screws to secure the chalkboard.

The chalkboard would be a welcome addition in any room, and would be awesome for a kid’s room or in a family room. The chalkboard panel can also be replaced with a dry erase panel, if desired. Leave a comment below if there are any questions about the DIY plans to build a Shuttered Chalkboard!


This post contains an affiliate link. What that means is that if the link is clicked and a purchase made, I will receive a commission.

Build a Mailbox Post

Step Up Your Curb Appeal with a New Mailbox Post!

Generally, we give our homes and our yards a lot of attention. The house gets a new coat of paint, a transformation to the front door, or a fresh look to our shutters. The yard will get mowed, clipped, raked, fertilized, and watered which turns it into a lush, green oasis. But do we ever think about the mailbox and the post that holds it? I’ll be the first to admit that although I’ve painted the mailbox, the post is left looking a bit unattractive. Matt asked me to create plans to build a gorgeous new post for the mailbox. Sure, a new mailbox post can be purchased then sunk into the ground but it is a few bucks cheaper to build your own and customize it to reflect the style of your home!

build a mailbox post copy

The receptacle for the Rebel house (the rental that Matt and I have been remodeling) had a mailbox and a post that was way worse than mine. I did not take a “before” photo, so I will describe it to you… The box was rusty and had a magnetic covering on it featuring a “deer” scene. The post was a bent pipe that was leaning. In fact, Matt yanked it out of the ground with his bare hands! It was in very sad shape! Once the post was built, set into the ground, and painted, it made the Rebel house look like a million bucks all the way to the curb!


  • 1 – 4×4 post at 8′ plus a scrap piece at 14″
  • 2-1/2″ Weather Resistant pocket hole screws (“Blue Kote”)
  • 1 scrap piece of treated 1×6 the length of the mailbox
  • 2″ exterior screws
  • Exterior screws to secure the mailbox to the shelf
  • 1 treated post finial or cap
  • Wood glue rated for exterior use
  • Paintable silicone caulk
  • Post hole digger (if a new hole is required)
  • Bag of quick-setting concrete
  • Level
  • Exterior paint and brush
  • Exterior screws to mount the mailbox

Cut List:

  • 1 – 4×4 at 79″ – Post
  • 1 – 4×4 at 14″ – Post Arm
  • 1 – 4×4 at 16-1/16″ – Arm Support
  • 1 – 1×6 cut to the length of the underside of the mailbox – Post Arm Shelf

Build a mailbox post

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Start be reviewing the guidelines from the US Postal Service. They have a specific height for the box from the curb to the underside which makes it easier for the carrier to reach it. You can find the guidelines HERE.

Step Two

For this plan, the main post will extend up above the mailbox to show off a finial. Cut the main post at 79″ which includes the necessary 2′ that will be cemented into the ground.

 build mailbox post_Post

Step Three

Cut the piece for the post arm. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill two pocket holes on each side of one end of the piece. Secure to the post as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ weather resistant pocket hole screws.

 build mailbox post_Arm

Step Four

Cut the piece for the arm support. The angles are each cut at 45 degrees. Drill two pocket holes at each end on each side of the piece. Secure as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ weather resistant pocket hole screws.

 build mailbox post_Support

Step Five

Measure the underside of the mailbox and cut the 1×6 piece to fit. Allow enough room for the door to open and close easily. Mount the piece on the arm using glue and 2″ exterior screws. Allow a space at the back of the shelf (at the post)  for the mailbox to fit.

 build mailbox post_Shelf1

Step Six

Use a drill bit at the same diameter of the screw in the bottom of the finial. Drill a hole about 3/4″ deep in the center of the top of the post, then screw in the finial. Use the paintable silicone caulk to fill the pocket holes.

 build mailbox post_Finial

Step Seven

Refer to the US Postal Service guidelines for the required location for the box, and dig a new hole if necessary. The hole should be a little deeper than the required 2′, and (obviously) bigger than the post itself. Mix and add the concrete according to the directions on the bag of quick-setting concrete. Check the post with the level, then let the concrete set.

 build mailbox post Photo09241335  build mailbox post Photo09241339  build mailbox post Photo09241400

Step Eight

Once the concrete is dry (usually in 24 hours), paint the post using the exterior paint of your choice. We used Valspar Exterior paint in White with a semi-gloss finish.

 build mailbox post Photo09251446  build mailbox post Photo09251445

Step Nine

Position the mailbox on the shelf and secure using exterior screws on the sides into the shelf.

 build mailbox post Photo09251538

Now that you’ve used your skills to build a new mailbox post, your mailbox will be the nicest on the block! Add a few gorgeous plants or flowers around the base and – voila! – you have just turned the style up to 10!


A Beautiful Lamp with a Walnut Base

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood

I love making and refurbishing lamps.  I love walnut wood, too! I had a few scraps of PureBond walnut plywood left over from one of the projects I create for them and decided that I really, really needed a lamp with a walnut base. Constructing a lamp base from the DIY plans to build a lamp base with plywood are super-easy. The plywood is joined together using 45° bevels in the edges of the pieces. It sounds hard but really isn’t!

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Finished


  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
  • 1 – 1/4″ lamp pipe at 15-1/2″
  • 1 – replacement lamp cord with plug
  • 3 – 1/4″ lamp nuts
  • 1 – washer to fit the pipe
  • 1 – candelabra socket cover at 4″
  • 2 – check rings to fit on the ends of the socket cover
  • Lamp socket
  • Lamp shade of your choice


  • 1 – 2’x 2′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1/2″ plywood at 5″ x 12″ – Base Sides
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 5″ square – Base Top
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 4″ square – Base Bottom

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

To Build the Lamp Base:

Cut all of the plywood pieces to size. I used the table saw with the blade set at 45° to cut the bevels in each of the long ends of the base sides, as well as the top edge of each piece. A router with a 45° chamfer bit can also be used.

Cut 45° bevels in all four edges of the top. I used a compound miter saw to do this but a router with a 45° chamfer bit can also be used.

 Sorry for the “shady” photos… It is that time of year where my work table in partially shaded!

Lay the side pieces on a flat surface side by side with the bevels facing down. Place at least two or three rows of masking tape across the pieces with the ends of the tape extending past each side piece.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Apply Tape

Carefully flip the pieces over and apply glue to each bevel. Fold the pieces on each other creating a box and secure the tape. Let the piece dry.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Apply Glue

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Glued

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Taped Assembly

Mark the center of the top and bottom pieces, and drill a hole in each piece large enough for the lamp pipe to fit through. (This is not shown in the photos.)

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Top & Bottom

Fit the beveled top into the top of the base, trimming as necessary. Spread glue on the bevels, then position the top, securing it in place with masking tape. Let the piece dry.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Top

Place the bottom piece inside the bottom positioning it approximately 1″ up from the bottom. Secure the piece in place with 1-1/4″ brad nails through the sides. I did not photograph this step but I’m sure you get the idea!

Drill a hole in the lower back side of the base below the bottom. This is so the cord will not interfere with the bottom of the lamp.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Cord Hole

Thoroughly sand the base and fill any holes or gaps with wood filler. Stain and seal the base as desired.

Decorate the base with a stencil and paint, if you’d like… I cut a stencil out of vinyl then painted it with metallic white paint. A woodburning tool could be used to create a design (before staining) or even the glue-resist technique can be used.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Stencil

To Install and Wire the Lamp:

Thread the washer and one of the nuts onto the lamp pipe, then thread the pipe through the hole in the bottom and through the hole in the top. Place a check ring (face down) over the pipe, then thread a second nut on the pipe. The check rings will “frame” the socket cover helping to keep it in place.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Pipe Bottom

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Check Ring

Cover the socket cover with scrapbooking paper or spray paint the piece. This is where I like to have fun and add a pop of color! Thread the cover on the pipe, then add the second check ring (face down) and the remaining nut.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Socket Cover

Thread the wiring through the hole in the lower edge of the base, then through the pipe and pull it out of the top. Thread the socket cap onto the pipe. Tie an underwriter’s knot (which helps keep the cord from being yanked out of the socket) and attach the wiring to the socket terminals. Wrap the wiring in the same direction as the screw will tighten. Install the socket’s cover.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Socket Wiring

Install the lamp shade of your choice! Gorgeous!

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Finished

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Night Left

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Night Right

What do you think? The lamp can be constructed out of any species of wood like oak, cherry, even cedar! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a lamp base with plywood? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

How to Make a Framed Cork Board with Wine Bottle Corks

I made this board for Mr. Awesome for our anniversary representing some of the bottles of wine we’d shared over the past year. I thought I had enough corks but apparently not… This is still a work in progress!

Most wine bottle corks are no longer “cork”, they are rubber which works even better for this project since they are easier to cut!


  • Wine bottle corks
  • Box cutter with a new blade
  • Frame with a wood back
  • Stain or paint for the frame
  • Hot glue gun and glue sticks

Let’s get started!

An existing frame can be used or a new one can be built. I used a frame from a cabinet door that I never finished. I routed a rabbet on the back side and glued a piece of 1/4″ lauan in the opening. I stained the frame then sealed it with polyurethane. I added a sawtooth hanger on the top and on the side so it could be hung vertically or horizontally, then added an antique-looking knob in the corner.


 Cut the corks in half. The rubber corks are very easy to cut but be careful!


Start gluing the corks  in place. Some of the corks are longer than others and small pieces will have to be trimmed to fit in the spaces but this adds to the rustic look I was trying to achieve!


If I hadn’t used such a large frame, this would not continue to be a work in progress! So I guess it may be a few more months before it is finally finished… Maybe for our next anniversary??

Until next time,

Happy Creating!

Tip Junkie handmade projects


Thread a Pipe for a Lamp – DIY Tutorial

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp

It is no secret that I love to refurbish old light fixtures. Sometimes the parts I need for a lamp are not readily available in local home improvement stores and that means that I have to get creative. I wanted to reuse a piece of brass pipe in a light fixture. It had threads on one end but it really needed them on both ends. After a bit of research, I found an easy technique that I could do myself… Let me show you how to thread a pipe for a lamp!

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp

I knew that I could use a die to cut threads on a pipe but I wasn’t sure what size I would need for a lamp. As I was looking online for a die, I ran across a die that is exactly what I needed from Tx Lamp Parts. They are awesome – they carry everything for lamp building and repair, their shipping rates are reasonable, and they are my newest obsession. I found parts in their store that sent my heart all a-flutter!

Most threaded pipe used in lamp making is 1/8″ – 27 NPT. What that means is the pipe size is 1/8″, there are 27 threads per inch, and NPT stands for National Pipe Taper. A tapered thread pipe will create a tighter seal and is generally used for gas lines, water lines, and apparently on lamps. Now you know, ha ha! It is need-to-know information especially when it comes to buying pipe!

So, for the die, a special die stock handle will be used. The die fits in the middle and is held in place with a set screw.

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp-Die and Handle

The pipe is placed in a vise to hold it steady. Do not crank the vice too tight – the pipe will get smashed! The die and handle will be positioned on the end of the pipe, perpendicular to the pipe, with the die markings facing the pipe. Pipe cutting oil should be used to help the threads cut easier, and also to protect the cutting edge of the die. Start slow turning the handle and die clockwise, keeping the handle and die perfectly perpendicular to the pipe until the threads start to cut. Continue turning the handle and die until the desired length of threads is reached. If the pipe starts turning in the vise, add more oil to the die.

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp-Pipe in vice

To remove the handle and die, turn in a counter-clockwise manner. This will remove any burrs on the threads so that anything that screws onto it will fit without a problem!

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp-Die on Pipe

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp-Back Side of Die

Super-easy, right? This tutorial will apply to any pipe needing threads, not just lamp pipe. This is the first time I’ve ever threaded a pipe and I couldn’t be more pleased with the results! Have you threaded pipe before? Have any questions about how to thread a pipe for a lamp? Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!


I mentioned Tx Lamp Parts because they are awesome not because I was paid. 

How to Make a Framed Multi Organizer

How to Make a Framed Multi Organizer

My daughter has a small room and there is not enough space for her stuff! As we transition her room from “tween” to “teen”, I wanted to make things for her that reflect her style yet keep her room clutter-free – at least a little!

This framed multi organizer can be customized any number of ways. It can be for jewelry only with three mirrors and three organizer panels, or for “office” organizing with more magnetic and cork panels, the choice is up to you!

I chose to use one mirror, two punched aluminum panels (for earrings & necklaces), one corkboard, and two magnetic boards.

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0608 copy


  • 2 – 1×2 lumber at 8′
  • Pocket hole jig & 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • Drill
  • Router with 3/8″ rabbeting bit
  • Sander & sandpaper in 80, 120, 220 grits
  • Finishing supplies
  • 1 – 12″ x 12″ mirror
  • 1 – 12″ x 12″ cork panel
  • 2 – 12″ x 12″ piece of hardware mesh or punched aluminum
  • 2 – 12″ x 12″ pieces of sheet metal
  • 4 – 12″ x 12″ pieces of cardboard
  • 3 – drawer knobs
  • Fabric of your choice
  • Spray adhesive
  • Framing tab gun or small nails

Start by cutting the pieces of lumber for the frame. Assemble the frame as shown (click on the picture to make it larger) using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Framed Multi Organizer Jewelry Display

Use the router to cut a rabbet in each inner frame, then thoroughly sand the frame starting with 80 grit, then 120 grit, and finally with 220 grit. Fill any holes or imperfections with filler, as desired.

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0596

Paint or stain. I chose a white paint for this project. Apply any sealer as desired. (The kitty, Busy, was inspecting my work.)

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0601

I primed the punched aluminum sheets with Rust-Oleum’s Rusty Metal Primer (the best, in my opinion, for priming metal!) then painted them with spray paint – Valspar in Frosty Berry. I also sprayed the sheet metal with spray adhesive and applied the fabric over it.

I started with the cork panel and added a piece of the cardboard behind it for stability. I secured the panels in place with the framing tab gun. A stapler would work, also, to secure the panels in place. The punched aluminum panels do not need cardboard behind them.

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0602

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0603

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0604

I added drawer knobs to one of the punched aluminum panels to hang necklaces. I was able to screw the post of the knob into one of the holes then attach a washer and nut behind it. I cut off the remaining part of the post with bolt cutters as close to the nut as I could get.

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0605

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0606

Attach to the wall with screws through the frame into the wall studs. Or attach soda can tabs to the back and attach the frame to the drywall using auger anchors. This frame is temporarily leaning against the wall in The Han’s room until I decide where I want to hang it.


Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0607

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0608

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0609

This multi-organizer can be customized for a boy, as well, and is fabulous for organizing homework and artwork! Have any questions about the famed multi organizer? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

How to Change the Blade on a Miter Saw

Time for a Saw Blade Change!

Every once in a while, it is time to change the blade in the miter saw(or any saw for that matter). Not only does it make nicer cuts with a new blade but it also helps keep things safer!

change blade saw SANY2568

I noticed I was having a hard time with cuts on my saw – the ends of the lumber were getting chewed up and it was just more difficult to get a nicer cut. The last time I changed the blade was when I first got the saw (about 5 or 6 years ago) so it was definitely due!

A new blade will run in the neighborhood of $20.00. It sounds like a lot to some but I like to purchase a quality blade that will last longer especially since I use my saw nearly every day. If you don’t use your saw on a regular basis, a cheaper blade will work just fine!

change blade saw SANY2559

Start by making sure the saw is unplugged. No-brainer, I know, but safety can always be an issue with some! It wouldn’t hurt to peruse the manual that came with the saw. There may be some special “need to know” information about the saw in there!

 change blade saw SANY2560

I removed the safety cover on the blade and set it aside.

 change blade saw SANY2561

There is also a blade lock mechanism that will keep the blade from turning freely while the arbor is removed to change the blade. I use a clamp to hold the blade lock in place so I can use both hands to loosen the arbor (the bolt that holds the saw blade in place).

 change blade saw SANY2566

The arbor in my saw was cranked on tight. I had to call in The Big Guns (i.e. my dad) to loosen the arbor for me. The arbor wasn’t cranked on really tight the last time I changed the blade – blade rotation and heat generated by the rotation can cause the arbor to tighten. We checked the manual and this is when we found out that the arbor was a “left hand thread”. That means that instead of  “righty-tighty, lefty-loosey”, it was exactly the opposite. So Dad wrote a little note on the saw for me…

 change blade saw SANY2562  change blade saw SANY2563

I also have a laser guide on the saw. It didn’t come with one and this is an after-market guide made by Irwin to fit most saws. I knew the batteries were dead and this would be the perfect opportunity to change them – but I was out of batteries… D’oh! I’ll just save that for another day! Once the arbor and the laser guide were removed, I removed the blade and cleaned a lot of the sawdust out of the housing.

I replaced the blade, the still-dead laser guide, and the arbor. Then I replaced the safety cover, plugged her in, and fired her up…

 change blade saw SANY2564  change blade saw SANY2565

Aaaaahhhh – smooth as silk!! Awesome!

 change blade saw SANY2567

Until next time,

Happy Creating!

How to Make DIY Art with Wallpaper

I saw the coolest wall decor in one of the high-end catalogs. I nearly choked on the price – $299.00!! Granted, the inspiration piece is described as being hand carved and is approximately 79″ long, but wow! I knew I could create something similar for a fraction of the cost!

I had some old door frames I built and never used. I figured they would make great wall art! The wallpaper I used is an awesome embossed and paintable pattern by Martha Stewart. Today, I’ll share my idea on creating this cool, decorative piece!



  • Frame constructed of 1x3s
  • Piece of 1/4″ lauan, Hardboard, or plywood to cover the front of the frame
  • Brad nails or stapler
  • Decorative, paintable wallpaper
  • Spray adhesive
  • Paint & Sponge roller

Let’s get started!

Determine the size of your artwork. Most wallpaper is 20.5″ wide. The frame will need to be at least 2″ to 3″ narrower than the wallpaper to allow for the wallpaper to fold over the edges. Construct the frame as follows:


Cut the 1/4″ material to fit the top of the frame. Glue and nail or staple in place. A thorough sanding isn’t necessary – only sand the rough edges.


Cut the piece of wallpaper and lightly draw trace around the frame so it will be centered. Thoroughly spray the paper with adhesive.

Lay the piece face down on a flat surface and center the frame piece on top of it.

Flip it over and smooth out any air bubbles.

Start folding the sides of the paper over the frame, then fold over to the back.


Secure to the frame with tape or staples.


I chose to leave my artwork unpainted (I’m sure I’ll change my mind later)- it looks more like the inspiration piece!

If you want to paint yours, using a foam roller and paint, lightly paint over the raised parts of the wallpaper. Another idea would be to thoroughly paint the wallpaper, let it dry, then use a contrasting color over the raised parts. Add a sawtooth hanger to the back and enjoy the new artwork you created!


Until next time,

Happy Creating!

P.S. Sorry about some of the pics… I had to move my work table to the shade to avoid sunburn… Again!!


Mustache Candleholder

How to Make a Wood Mustache Candleholder

My teenage daughter is obsessed with mustaches… Actually, I’ve seen them everywhere – on t-shirts, duct tape, even shoe laces! I have to admit that they are quite quirky! I was experimenting with the band saw one day and cut out a cute mustache for her. Since it was so much fun, I’ve become a little obsessed with them myself! So today, I’ll show you how to make make a wood mustache candleholder!

How to Make a Wood Mustache Candleholder 1


  • Scrap 2×4 or 4×4 lumber
  • Cardstock (for pattern)
  • Paint & Sandpaper

Start by cutting a pattern out of the cardstock. I used my Silhouette Cameo to cut a perfectly sized mustache without too many curves!

How to Make a Wood Mustache Candleholder 2

Trace the pattern on the lumber.

How to Make a Wood Mustache Candleholder 3

Use a bandsaw or jigsaw to cut out the mustache.

How to Make a Wood Mustache Candleholder 4

How to Make a Wood Mustache Candleholder 5

Use a drill press fitted with a 1-7/8″ Forstner bit and drill a shallow hole to hold a tealight candle if the mustache has been cut out of a 4×4 post. Otherwise, just leave it as is.

How to Make a Wood Mustache Candleholder 6

Thoroughly sand – start with 100 grit, then 150 grit, then 220 grit. Paint or finish as desired, then sand the edges for a “worn” look.

How to Make a Wood Mustache Candleholder 7

What do you think? Are you a little obsessed too??

These candleholders make great gifts or as a piece to hang on the wall! Several can be made in just a few hours out of scrap wood… Have any questions on how to make a wood mustache candleholder? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

Sharing with Sawdust Girl’s Sawdust Throwdown