A Corner Base Cabinet for a Kitchen Remodel

DIY Plans to Build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet

When I was remodeling my kitchen, I built an L-shaped corner cabinet. There are some who like this style and some who prefer the diagonal corner style. I was asked if I had plans on the side for the D-style cabinet and now I do! The DIY plans to build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet feature two shelves inside with an optional Lazy Susan attached to each shelf. The cabinet also features a face frame with a 1/2″ overlay on the door, which can be hinged on either side. This cabinet  also features adjustable furniture legs and is another quick and easy build!

DIY Plans to Build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet_Copy

Materials:

  • 1″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 3 sets of adjustable furniture legs (like these)
  • 2 sets of Lazy Susan hardware with screws
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 3 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 31″ x 34-1/2″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 31″ x 35-1/4″ – Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 24″ x 31″ – Sides
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 34-1/2″ x 34-1/2″ – Shelves
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 31″ in diameter – Lazy Susan Shelves
  • 2 – 1×3 at 14″ – Face Frame Rails
  • 2 – 1×2 at 31″ – Face Frame Stiles
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 48-13/16″ – Support
  • 2 – 1×3 at 10″ – Door Rails
  • 2 – 1×3 at 27″ – Door Stiles
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 10″ x 22″ – Door Panel

DIY Plans to Build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the back. Note that one piece is cut 3/4″ shorter than the other so that both sides are equal from the corner to the end. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in one end of the longer back piece and both ends of the shorter back piece as shown. Join the pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet_Back

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the sides. A 45° bevel will be cut in one side edge of each piece to allow for the face frame on the diagonal. Secure the sides to the back pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. the beveled edges will face each other.

DIY Plans to Build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet_Sides

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the face frame and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces as well as one long edge of each 1×2 piece (not shown in the drawing). Assemble the face frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the face frame to the beveled edges of the sides using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws. Do not use pocket hole screws that are longer as they may poke out the sides! Brad nails can also be used through the bevels into the sides of the frame but they may poke out the back side of the frame.

DIY Plans to Build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet_Face Frame 1

DIY Plans to Build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet_Face Frame 2

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the shelves as shown. Secure the lower shelf to the side and back pieces first, using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet_Shelf 1

Step Five

Cut the circles for the Lazy Susan shelves. Install the Lazy Susan on the lower shelf first. For detailed instructions on installing Lazy Susan hardware, click here.

Install the upper shelf. It may be easier to install of the pocket holes face up and the shelf is installed from the top of the cabinet (the pocket holes will not be visible). Install the second Lazy Susan.

DIY Plans to Build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet_Lazy Susan 1

DIY Plans to Build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet_Shelf 2

DIY Plans to Build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet_Lazy Susan 2

Step Six

Cut the piece for the support. The support is positioned diagonally across the cabinet and will have 45° angles cut in both sides of each end. Secure the support with 1-1/4″ brad nails. Additional supports for the countertop may be added as necessary.

DIY Plans to Build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet_Support 1

DIY Plans to Build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet_Support 2

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the doors and drill pocket holes in each end of the rails. Assemble the door frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the door panel. Secure the panel in the frame using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the door frame.

DIY Plans to Build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet_Door 1

DIY Plans to Build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet_Door 2

Install the hinges and the cabinet pull as desired.

Cut a piece of 3/4″ plywood, approximately 4″ tall, to act as a kick plate once the cabinets are installed.

Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Diagonal Corner Base Kitchen Cabinet? Leave a comment below!




The Perfect Cabinet for a Variety of Rooms and Styles

DIY Plans to Build an Atherton Cabinet

This neat little cabinet can be used in so many areas of the home… The DIY plans to build an Atherton Cabinet feature two lower drawers with two shelves. The cabinet would be an excellent media stand for a small tv or even a great place to store shoes, boots, and backpacks in a mudroom!

DIY Plans to Build an Atherton Cabinet_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
  • Paste Wax

Lumber:

  • 2 -1×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×6 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of ¾” plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 31-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1×2 at 12” – Side Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 12” – Side Framing
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 25” – Side Panels
  • 4 – 1×2 at 29” – Back Framing & Front Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×2 at 29” – Back Framing & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25” x 29” – Back Panel
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 29” – Shelves
  • 1 – 1×6 at 13-1/2” – Drawer Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/2” x 33” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 12-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 5-3/8” wide) at 12” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 5-3/8” wide) at 14” – Drawer Front & Back

DIY Plans to Build an Atherton Cabinet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side framing, and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 pieces. Secure the 2x2s to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 framing pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Secure the 1×2 framing piece to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Secure the panel to the legs and framing pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the plywood will be flush with the back face of the legs and framing.

DIY Plans to Build an Atherton Cabinet_Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the back framing, the back panel, and the front stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 pieces. Secure the 2×2 back framing piece to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 framing pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the 1×2 back framing piece to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Secure the panel to the legs and framing pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the plywood will be flush with the back face of the legs and framing.

DIY Plans to Build an Atherton Cabinet_Back

Step Three

Secure the front stretchers in place as shown. The 1×2 pieces will be secured using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, and the 2×2 pieces will be secured using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Atherton Cabinet_Front Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the shelves to the sides, back, and front stretchers as shown. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top edge of each of the corresponding front stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build an Atherton Cabinet_Shelves

Step Five

Cut the piece for the divider. Slide the divider into the cabinet on the bottom shelf and secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build an Atherton Cabinet_Drawer Divider

Step Six

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang the sides and front by ½” on all sides. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build an Atherton Cabinet_Top

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then secure the drawer front and back. There will be a 1/16” gap at the sides of the drawers and a 1/8” gap at the top of the drawers in the opening.

DIY Plans to Build an Atherton Cabinet_Drawers BS

DIY Plans to Build an Atherton Cabinet_Drawers FB

DIY Plans to Build an Atherton Cabinet_Drawers

Finish as desired, then apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom and sides of the drawers to help them slide smoothly in the openings.

The Atherton Cabinet would also be a great way to store towels and toiletries in a bathroom! This is a quick and easy build, and this plan is suitable for all skill levels. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build an Atherton Cabinet? Leave a comment below!




A Console Table with Both Hidden and Exposed Storage

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet

This console table is an excellent way to store everyday linens and dishes, yet keep it looking like a fancy collection… The DIY plans to build an Arden Buffet feature three exposed shelves on each side, as well as doors with a shelf behind them and two drawers. The buffet is a very easy build that can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Cabinet Pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
  • Paste Wax

Lumber:

  • 4 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 37-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 1×2 at 14″ – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1×2 at 50″ – Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14″ x 50″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-1/2″ x 31-3/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 24-1/2″ x 30-1/4″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-3/4″ x 24-1/2″ – Drawer Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-3/4″ x 24-1/2″ – Cabinet Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 9-1/4″ x 14-3/4″ – Drawer Divider
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-3/4″ x 15-1/2″ – Outer Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 54″ – Top
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/4″ x 13-1/4″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-5/8″ x 13-1/4″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-5/8″ x 11-3/4″ – Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/16″ x 21-1/2″ – Doors

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper in the lower end of the legs using a jigsaw or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the pieces for the side framing. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the framing pieces will be flush with the inside faces of the legs. The taper on the legs will face to the inside.

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Legs

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Side Frames

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the stretchers will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the bottom panel to the lower side framing pieces and the lower stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the bottom panel will be flush with the top edge of the framing pieces and stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Bottom

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut the notches using a jigsaw. Secure the side panels to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the stretchers to the notches using a few 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Sides 1

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Sides 2

Step Five

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the back panel to the sides, bottom, and rear stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Back

Step Six

Cut the piece for the drawer shelf and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as one long edge. Secure the shelf to the sides and back, as shown, using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the cabinet shelf and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as one long edge. Secure the shelf to the sides and back, as shown, using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Note that the shelf will be set back 1″ from the front edge of the sides. This allows for the inset doors.

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Drawer Shelf

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Cabinet Shelf

 

 

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the divider and cut the notch using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the piece as shown. Secure the divider to the back, drawer shelf, and the front stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Divider 1

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Divider 2

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the outer shelves and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Secure the shelves to the side panels and the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Outer Shelves 1

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Outer Shelves 2

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang all sides by 1/2″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Top

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the drawers. There will be no drawer slides installed but a coat of paste wax can be applied to the sides and bottom of the drawers to allow them to slide smoothly in the openings. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the front and back in the same manner.

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Drawer FB

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet.

DIY Plans to Build an Arden Buffet_Doors & Drawers

Finish as desired. Install the cabinet pulls.

This buffet would also be a great addition to a bathroom to hold towels and toiletries, or even in an entry way. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build an Arden Buffet? Leave a comment below!




A Rolling Cabinet Perfect for Storage in Any Room!

DIY Plans to Build a Leighton Rolling Cabinet

This cabinet has a lot of great features in one… The DIY plans to build a Leighton Rolling Cart feature four cubbies with two drawers on top creating the perfect piece for storing books, toys, and art supplies for the kiddos! This cabinet is another easy build (you know I wouldn’t have it any other way) and can be completed in a weekend.

DIY Plans to Build a Leighton Rolling Cabinet_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1″ brad nails
  • 2 sets of 10″ ball bearing drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • 4 – 4″ casters
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×4 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×10 at 4′
  • 1 – 1×12 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×12 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1×12 at 25″ – Cabinet Top & Bottom
  • 2 – 1×12 at 31-1/2″ – Cabinet Sides
  • 2 – 1×12 at 23-1/2″ – Drawer Shelves
  • 1 – 1×12 at 23-1/2″ – Lower Shelf
  • 1 – 1×12 at 23-1/2″ – Divider
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 24-1/2″ x 32-1/2″ – Back
  • 2 – 1×10 at 21″ – Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – 1×4 (ripped to 3″ wide) at 9-1/4″ – Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 1×4 (ripped to 3″ wide) at 22-1/2″ – Drawer Back
  • 2 – 1×4 (ripped to 3″ wide) at 23-1/2″ – Drawer Front

DIY Plans to Build a Leighton Rolling Cabinet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the cabinet. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Secure the sides to the top and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Leighton Rolling Cabinet_Cabinet

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the drawer shelves and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the drawer shelves to the sides of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. It may be easier to install the uppermost drawer shelf first, the work your way down!

DIY Plans to Build a Leighton Rolling Cabinet_Drawer Shelves

Step Three

Cut the piece for the lower shelf and drill pocket holes in each end. Cut the notch using a jigsaw. Secure the lower shelf to the sides of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Leighton Rolling Cabinet_Lower Shelf 1

DIY Plans to Build a Leighton Rolling Cabinet_Lower Shelf 2

Step Four

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Cut the notch using a jigsaw. Secure the divider to the bottom of the cabinet and the underside of the shelf directly above using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Leighton Rolling Cabinet_Divider 1

DIY Plans to Build a Leighton Rolling Cabinet_Divider 2

Step Five

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back to the cabinet using glue and 1″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Leighton Rolling Cabinet_Back

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom pieces. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then install the front and back in the same manner. Note that the front will overhang each side of the drawer box by 3/8″.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Install the drawer pulls and the casters.

DIY Plans to Build a Leighton Rolling Cabinet_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Leighton Rolling Cabinet_Drawer FB

DIY Plans to Build a Leighton Rolling Cabinet_Drawers

DIY Plans to Build a Leighton Rolling Cabinet_Casters

Finish the cabinet as desired!

This cabinet will be a welcome addition to any craft room to store supplies, as well as in a shop to store tools! have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Leighton Rolling Cabinet? Leave a comment below!




Short on Space? Add a Cabinet to the Wall for a Laptop

DIY Plans to Build a Laptop Wall Desk

Don’t have a lot of space, or like the minimalist look? This nifty wall cabinet is for you! The DIY plans to build a Laptop Wall Desk feature a drop-down front to hold the laptop, plenty of spaces to store office supplies, as well as a drawer underneath. This cabinet is a very easy build and is designs to be secured directly to the wall studs. Drop-down hardware for the laptop shelf is required!

DIY Plans to Build a Laptop Wall Desk_Copy

DIY Plans to Build a Laptop Wall Desk_Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Strip of 1/2″ cork material
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Drop-Down Hardware, like this
  • Cabinet pulls
  • 1 magnetic catch
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 6″ x 18-1/2″ – Cabinet Frame
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 6″ x 26″ – Cabinet Frame
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 24-1/2″ – Cabinet Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 24-1/2″ – Drawer Shelf
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 14″ – Shelf Dividers
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 4″ x 4-1/2″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 5″ x 15-1/2″ – Angled Divider
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 4-1/4″ x 23-1/4″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 3-1/2″ x 4-1/4″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 3-1/2″ x 24-1/4″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-3/4″ x 24-1/4″ – Drop Down Shelf

DIY Plans to Build a Laptop Wall Desk

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the cabinet side pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Laptop Wall Desk_Frame

Step Two

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the back to the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The pocket holes will face to the back of the cabinet.

DIY Plans to Build a Laptop Wall Desk_Back

Step Three

Cut the piece for the drawer shelf and drill pocket holes in the shorter ends. Secure the shelf to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Laptop Wall Desk_Drawer Shelf

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the dividers, the small shelves, and the angled divider. Cut a 26° angle in one long edge of the angled divider.  Secure the shall shelves and the angled divider to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Insert the assembly in the cabinet on top of the drawer shelf securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the back and sides. The assembly will be flush with the back.

Glue a piece of cork to the upper back above the angled divider, if desired.

DIY Plans to Build a Laptop Wall Desk_Shelf Assembly 1

DIY Plans to Build a Laptop Wall Desk_Shelf Assembly 2

DIY Plans to Build a Laptop Wall Desk_Cork

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails, then secure the front and back.

The drawer will fit into the cabinet under the drawer shelf.

DIY Plans to Build a Laptop Wall Desk_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Laptop Wall Desk_Drawer Front & Back

Step Six

Cut the piece for the drop-down shelf. Install the hinges on the shelf and the cabinet.Install the drop-down hardware according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Install the magnetic catch to keep the door closed.

DIY Plans to Build a Laptop Wall Desk_Drop Down Shelf

Finish as desired.

This cabinet can also be finished in a variety of ways – painted, stenciled, stained, etc. It can also be installed at chair height or a height that is comfortable when standing. The cabinet would be great in an entryway or kitchen, especially when referring to recipes while cooking! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Laptop Wall Desk? Leave a comment below!




An Excellent Way to Hide Trash

DIY Plans to Build a Rolling Trash Bin

If you do not have a trash bin built into the cabinets in the kitchen, I have a solution to hide unsightly trash cans! The DIY plans to build a Rolling Trash Bin are to build a small cabinet on casters with a slide-out trash can and a small drawer above to store garbage bags! This is a really easy plan that can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Rolling Trash Bin_Copy

DIY Plans to Build a Rolling Trash Bin_Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 2 sets of 12″ drawer slides (the ball-bearing type would be best!)
  • 4 – 2″ casters with a flat top and screws
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-3/4″ x 31-1/4″ – Cabinet Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 31-1/4″ – Cabinet Back
  • 3 – 1×2 at 14-1/2″ – Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12″ x 14-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 11″ x 14″ – Top Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 11″ – Top Side Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 17″ Top Front & Back Trim
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/2″ x 12 – Drawer Box Bottom & Trash Bin Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 10-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 13-1/2″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/2″ x 20″ – Trash Bin Sides
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 20″ – Trash Bin Front & Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 14-1/4″ – Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1×3 at 9-1/4″ – Trash Bin Front Frame
  • 2 – 1×3 at 22-1/4″ – Trash Bin Front Frame
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 9-1/4″ x 17-1/4″ – Trash Bin Panel

DIY Plans to Build a Rolling Trash Bin

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and back of the cabinet. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each long edge of the back panel. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Rolling Trash Bin_Sides & Back

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Rolling Trash Bin_Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides, back, and lower front stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the bottom will be flush with the top edge of the lower front stretcher.

DIY Plans to Build a Rolling Trash Bin_Bottom

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in each end of the top side trim, as well as all four edges of the top panel. Secure the side trim pieces to the panel first using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then secure the front and back trim.

Position the top on the cabinet – the sides and front will overhang by 1/2″, and the back will be flush. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the top into the cabinet.

Secure the casters to the underside of the bottom using 3/4″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Rolling Trash Bin_Top 1

DIY Plans to Build a Rolling Trash Bin_Top 2

DIY Plans to Build a Rolling Trash Bin_Casters

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the drawer box and the trash bin. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box and trash bin as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides for the drawer according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

The drawer slides for the trash bin will be installed in the middle of the side between the middle and lower front stretchers. The corresponding pieces will be installed on the trash bin in the middle of the sides so that there is at least 1/4″ clearance between the bottom of the bin and the bottom of the cabinet. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer slides, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Rolling Trash Bin_Sm Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Rolling Trash Bin_Sm Drawer FB

DIY Plans to Build a Rolling Trash Bin_Bin Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Rolling Trash Bin_Bin Drawer FB

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the drawer front. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

Cut the pieces for the trash bin front. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces (the rails). Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the center panel. Insert the panel into the frame and secure in place using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws.

Shim the door in place in the opening, then secure to the trash bin using 1-1/4″ brad nails through the frame into the bin.

Mark the position for the drawer pull on the upper rail. Drill the holes and install the pull.

DIY Plans to Build a Rolling Trash Bin_Bin Drawer Front

DIY Plans to Build a Rolling Trash Bin_Drawer Fronts

Finish as desired.

The Rolling Trash Bin is an excellent option for those who are short on space in the kitchen… The top can be replaced with butcher block material so that the top can double as a cutting board! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Rolling Trash Bin? Leave a comment below!




A Simple and Small Cabinet

DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet

Need a small cabinet that is quick and easy to build? The DIY plans to build a Les Tulips Cabinet feature paneled doors, sides, and top with a shelf behind the doors. The lower base aprons are curved, and the base sits on 2×2 legs. This build can certainly be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet_Copy

DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet_Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 4 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1×3 at 12-1/2″ – Base Aprons
  • 2 – 1×3 at 27-1/2″ – Base Aprons
  • 4 – 2×2 at 4″ – Base Legs
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 31-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 4 – 2×2 at 26″ – Legs
  • 4 – 1×2 at 12-1/2″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 23″ – Side Panels
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 26″ x 27-1/2″ – Back
  • 1 – 1×2 at 27-1/2″ – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/4″ x 29″ – Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 28-1/2″ – Top Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 13-1/2″ – Top End Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 31-1/2″ – Top Side Trim
  • 4 – 1×2 at 10-9/16″ – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1×2 at 24-1/4″ – Door Stiles
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-9/16″ x 21-1/4″ – Door Panels

DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base aprons. Draw a decorative curve along one edge of each piece and cut out using a jigsaw. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons. Secure the aprons to the base legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet_Base 1 DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet_Base 2

Step Two

Cut the piece for the bottom. The bottom will overhang the base by 1/2″ on all sides. Secure the bottom to the base frame using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet_Bottom

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the legs. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in one end of each piece. Secure the legs to the bottom using glue and 2″ pocket hole screws. The legs will be positioned in each corner of the bottom 1/2″ in from each end.

DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet_Legs

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the side framing and the side panels. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front face of the framing pieces will be flush with the outside faces of the legs. Secure the panel to the legs and framing pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet_Sides

Step Five

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure the back to the legs and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside face of the back panel will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet_Back

Step Six

Cut the piece for the front stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretcher to the front legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretcher will be flush with the front face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet_Front Stretcher

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the shelf and cut the notches with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the side and back edges as shown. Secure the shelf to the side and back panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet_Shelf 1 DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet_Shelf 2

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter trim pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the end trim first using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, the secure the side trim.

Position the top on the cabinet. The top will overhang by 1/2″ on all sides. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet_Top 1 DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet_Top 2

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter trim pieces (the rails) as well as all four edges of the panel. Assemble the frame with the panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet_Doors 1 DIY Plans to Build a Les Tulips Cabinet_Doors 2

Finish as desired.

This little cabinet can be finished in a variety of ways… The door panels can be stenciled, decoupaged, or even decorated using the glue resist technique! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Les Tulips Cabinet? Leave a comment below!




An Easy to Build Pantry with Tons of Storage

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry

I love the idea of using a pantry – whether it is in the kitchen, bathroom, or bedroom, it is always nice to have the extra storage! The DIY plans to build a Scoville Pantry feature tapered legs at the lower end, three shelves, two drawers, and doors that can be fitted with glass (or acrylic or Plexiglas) or decorative punched aluminum. The plans are super-simple and can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Copy

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • Edge Banding, optional
  • Cabinet pulls
  • 3 sets of hinges
  • 2 pieces of glass, acrylic, or Plexiglass at 13-9/16″ x 56-3/4″
  • Mirror Clips
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 5 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 4 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 4 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 71-1/4″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 12-3/4″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 1×2 at 12-3/4″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-3/4″ x 61″ – Side Panels
  • 2 – 2×2 at 35-1/2″ – Back Framing & Front Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 35-1/2″ – Back Framing & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 35-1/2″ x 61″ – Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-3/4″ x 35-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-3/4″ x 12-3/4″ – Drawer Divider
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-3/4″ x 35-1/2″ – Drawer Shelf
  • 6 – 1×2 at 10-3/4″ – Shelf Frames
  • 6 – 1×2 at 35-1/2″ – Shelf Frames
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-3/4″ x 35-1/2″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-3/4″ x 38-1/2″ – Top
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-1/4″ x 15-3/4″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1×6 at 11-1/4″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1×6 at 17-1/4″ – Drawer Box Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 17-1/4″ – Drawer Fronts
  • 4 – 1×3 at 12-9/16″ – Door Frame Rails
  • 4 – 1×3 at 60-3/4″ – Door Frame Stiles
  • 2 – glass, acrylic, or Plexiglas at 13-9/16 x 56-3/4″ – Door Panels

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper in the lower end of the legs as shown using a jigsaw or a tapering jig on a table saw.

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the side framing and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 framing pieces. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The tapers on the legs will face to the back side of the frame – the same side as the pocket holes on the framing pieces.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 framing pieces. Secure the 1×2 pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face up and will be hidden by the top.

Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the side panels. Secure the panels in the side framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside of the frame.

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Sides

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the back framing, the back panel, and the front stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 framing piece as well as the lower front stretcher. Secure the framing piece to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 framing piece and the upper front stretcher. Secure the 1×2 framing piece to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face up and will be hidden by the top.

Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back panel. Secure the panel in the side framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside of the frame.

Install the front stretchers using the appropriate screws for the material thickness.

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Back

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Front Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the bottom to the lower 2×2 framing pieces and front stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the bottom will be flush with the top face of the lower front stretcher.

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Bottom

Step Five

Cut the piece for the drawer divider and drill pocket holes in one long edge. Secure the divider to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back edge of the divider will butt up against the back panel.

Cut the piece for the drawer shelf and drill pocket holes in each of the shorter edges. Secure the shelf to the sides above the drawer divider using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Add a few 1-1/4″ brad nails through the shelf into the divider, and through the back into the back edge of the shelf.

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Drawer Divider

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Drawer Shelf

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the shelf frames and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The pocket holes will be on the outside of the frame so they will be hidden when the frames are installed.

Secure the frames to the sides and back using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Shelf Frames 1

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Shelf Frames 2

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the shelves. The front edge of the shelves will overhang the frames by 1/2″. Secure the shelves in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Shelves

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the top, and secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Top

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Attach the sides to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Using a jigsaw, cut the notches in the drawer fronts. Secure the drawer front and back to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Drawers 1

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Drawers 2

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Drawers 3

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the door frames and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces (the rails). Assemble the doors using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces of glass for the door panels. Secure the panels to the back side of the doors using the mirror clips. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the opening.

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Doors 1

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Doors 2

DIY Plans to Build a Scoville Pantry_Doors 3

Finish as desired. Install the cabinet pulls. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottoms of the drawers to help them slide easily in the openings.

The pantry would be a great addition to a bathroom to store linens, toiletries, and towels. The piece would also be a great addition to a dining room to store and display linens, dishes, and extra silverware. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Scoville Pantry? Leave a comment below!

 




An Excellent Addition to a Home Office

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza

Everyone can use a beautiful piece of furniture for organization in the office – myself included! The DIY plans to build a Norway Credenza feature two lateral files, two cabinets with drop-down doors, and two pull-out shelves. This cabinet is a simple build, and is very inexpensive!

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza_Copy

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza_Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 2″ screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 2 – sets of 14″ Ball Bearing drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 2 drop front supports (like these)
  • 4 – 1/8″ x 1/2″ x 4′ aluminum strips
  • 12 – 1/4″ nylon spacers
  • 12 – 3/4″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 4 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – scrap of 2×3 at 19″
  • 3 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 5 – 2×2 at 31-1/4″ – Legs
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 19″ x 27-1/4″ – Side Panels
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 27-1/4″ x 57″ – Back
  • 2 – 1×2 at 27-3/4″ – Upper Front Framing
  • 4 – 2×2 at 27-3/4″ – Front Framing
  • 1 – 2×3 at 19″ – Pull-Out Shelf Divider
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/2″ x 27-3/4″ – Upper Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19″ x 57″ – Center Shelf
  • 1 – 2×2 at 19″ – Drawer Slide Support
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19″ x 57″ – Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 22-1/2″ x 61″ – Top
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 13″ x 25-1/4″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 13″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x  26-3/4″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-5/8″ x 27-1/2″ – Cubby Fronts
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-3/4″ x 27-1/2″ – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/2″ x 27-5/8″ – Pull-Out Shelves

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each long edge of the side panels. Secure the panels to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza_Side

Step Two

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the shorter edges. Secure the panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza_Back

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front framing. Drill pocket holes in each end of the upper framing pieces (1×2). Secure the framing pieces to the legs, including the center leg, using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face up and will be hidden by the top.

Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the lower framing pieces (2×2). Secure the lower framing pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza_Front Framing

Step Four

Cut the piece for the pull-out divider and drill pocket holes in one end only. Secure the divider to the center leg, flush with the top of the leg, using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Secure the back of the divider using countersunk 2″ screws through the back panel into the end of the divider.

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza_Pull-Out Divider

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the upper shelves. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Secure the shelves to the sides, back, and pull-out divider using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza_Upper Shelves

Step Six

Cut the piece for the center shelf and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure the shelf to the sides, back, and front framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the front framing.

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza_Shelf

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the lower drawer slide support. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in one end only. Secure the support to the center leg using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Secure the back of the support using countersunk 2″ screws through the back panel into the end of the divider.

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza_Drawer Slide Support

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the lower shelf. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the bottom to the sides, back, and front framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the bottom will be flush with the top face of the front framing.

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza_Bottom

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang by 1/2″ at the sides and the front. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza_Top

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

To create the rails for the hanging file folders, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza_Drawer FB

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

Install the hinges on the fronts for the cubbies, then install the fronts in the openings. Install the drop-down support according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Cut the pieces for the pull-out shelves. There will be a 1/16″ gap at the sides of the shelves, and a 1/8″ gap at the top.

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza_Pull-Out

DIY Plans to Build a Norway Credenza_Drawer Fronts

Finish as desired.

This is a great piece that can be used in any room to organize paperwork and hide electronics! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Norway Credenza? Leave a comment below!




A Quick and Easy Storage Cabinet to Build

DIY Plans to Build a Hadley Cabinet

Need a nice furniture piece with lots of storage that is easy to build? This may be the perfect plan! The DIY plans to build a Hadley Cabinet feature ten drawers and five center shelves. Even through the upper two drawer fronts are shorter than the others, the drawer boxes are all the same size. This plan requires no special skills and can easily be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Hadley Cabinet_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 4 – 4″ Bun feet and mounting plates
  • 10 sets of 16″ Drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

The 1×2 pieces can be cut from the plywood, if desired!

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 7 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 36-1/2″ – Sides & Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 40″ – Bottom
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood 12″ x 18″ – Shelves
  • 2 – 1×2 (or 3/4″ plywood) at 12″ – Center Stretchers
  • 14 – 1×2 (or 3/4″ plywood) at 12-1/2″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 37″ x 39-1/4″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-3/4″ x 41″ – Top
  • 10 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 14-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 20 – 1×6 at 14-1/2″- Drawer Box Sides
  • 20 – 1×6 at 11-1/2″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-3/4″ x 12-1/4″ – Upper Drawer Fronts
  • 8 – 3/4″ plywood at 6-1/4″ x 12-1/4″ – Drawer Fronts

DIY Plans to Build a Hadley Cabinet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom, the sides, and the dividers. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in the lower edge of each divider piece. Secure the dividers to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Hadley Cabinet_Bottom & Dividers

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the shelves and the center stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each 18″ edge of the shelves, as well as each shorter end of the stretchers. Secure the stretchers and the shelves to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Hadley Cabinet_Center Stretchers & Shelves

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the side front and back stretchers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Hadley Cabinet_Back Stretchers

DIY Plans to Build a Hadley Cabinet_Front Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The top edge will be flush with the top edge of the back stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build a Hadley Cabinet_Back

Step Five

Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front will overhang by 1/2″, and the back will overhang by 1/4″ covering the top edge of the back piece. Secure the top using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Hadley Cabinet_Top

Step Six

Install the mounting plates for the bun feet according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Install the bun feet.

DIY Plans to Build a Hadley Cabinet_Feet

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides and dividers. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Hadley Cabinet_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Hadley Cabinet_Drawer FB

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Hadley Cabinet_Drawer Fronts

Finish as desired.

The DIY plans to build a Hadley Cabinet are an excellent choice for those new to woodworking. The plans are simple, and easy to follow! The finished cabinet can be used in a variety of rooms, and can be finished many different ways. I think it would look great as storage in a dining room or bathroom! Have any questions about the plans? Leave a comment below!