DIY Plans to Build a Mid Century Modern Cabinet
Another Fabulous Piece in the Mid Century Style
Any fan of the Mid Century Modern style will love this cabinet! The DIY plans to build a Mid Century Modern Cabinet feature vertical dividers on one end, a cabinet with a door in the center, and two drawers on the other end. Above the drawers and door cabinet are also open shelves. Don’t let the tapered and angled legs fool you – they are super easy to cut! This fabulous plan can definitely be completed in a weekend!
- 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws (<– affiliate link!)
- 1-1/2″ screws
- Edge Banding
- 1 set of hinges
- Magnetic catch
- Cabinet pulls
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
- Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
- 2 – 1×3 at 6′
- 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
- 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood
- 4 – 1×3 at 9″ – Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 12-1/4″ – Leg Stretcher
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-3/4″ x 47″ – Top & Bottom
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 15-3/4″ – Sides
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 15-3/4″ – Cabinet Dividers
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 15-3/4″ – Drawer Shelves
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 15-3/4″ – Door Shelf
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-1/4″ x 15-3/4″ – Vertical Dividers
- 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 15-1/4″ x 46-1/4″ – Back
- 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-3/8″ x 14-3/8″ – Drawer Front & Back
- 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-3/8″ x 14-1/4″ – Drawer Sides
- 2 – 1/4″ plywood at 13-5/8″ x 15″ – Drawer Bottom
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 9-1/2″ x 14-3/4″ – Door
Click on the drawings for a larger view!
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.
Cut the pieces to length for the legs. Cut the taper in the piece first (using a jigsaw or a tapering jig on a table saw), then cut a 15° angle in each end as shown in the drawing.
Cut the pieces for the leg stretchers and cut a 15° bevel along one long edge of each piece. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the legs to the stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top and the bottom. Using a router with a 3/4″ wide straight bit, cut two 3/8″ dadoes in one face of each piece as shown in the drawing. These will be the channels for the vertical dividers.
Position the legs on the bottom of the piece that will be used for the bottom as shown in the drawing. They will be 3″ in from each end, and 1″ in from each side. Secure the legs in place using glue and 1-1/2″ screws.
Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the lower edge only. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside faces of the sides will be flush with the outside edge of the bottom.
Cut the pieces for the cabinet dividers and drill pocket holes in the lower edge only. Secure the dividers to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Note that the center door cabinet shelf is slightly wider than the drawer cabinet shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges of each piece. Secure the shelves to the side and/or dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the vertical dividers and slide them in the dadoes on the bottom.
Set the top in place. Trim the vertical dividers, if needed. Secure the top using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Use a router and a 1/4″ straight bit to cut a 1/4″ wide by 3/8″ deep groove in the lower edge of each piece, located approximately 1/4″ up from the bottom.
Drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer sides on the opposite side of the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Slide the drawer bottom in the groove and set the front in place. Trim the bottom piece, if needed. Secure the front using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
A few thumbtacks can be added to the bottom edges of the drawer fronts, back, and sides to help the drawers slide in the openings. There will be a 1/16″ gap at the sides and top of the drawers in the openings. Install the cabinet pulls.
Cut the piece for the door. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the door in the opening. Install the hinges on the door, then install the door in the cabinet. Install the magnetic catch to the keep the door closed, and install the cabinet pull.
Finish as desired.
If you really like the look of Mid Century Modern furniture, I also have plans for a chair that have been built and can be seen here! Cool, right? Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Mid Century Modern Cabinet? Leave a comment below!
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