A Sideboard to Build with X Detail and Lots of Storage
Hey there! Don’t let the appearance fool you, this sideboard is actually a breeze to build. The DIY plans for the Myron Sideboard include two doors with a cool X detail and Plexiglas, along with a handy shelf behind each door. Not to mention, there are three drawers for extra storage. The top is made of plywood with solid wood edges, giving it a sleek look. Trust me, this is a fantastic project for beginners in woodworking and you can easily finish it in just one weekend!
- 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws (<– affiliate link!)
- 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4″ brad nails
- Edge banding, optional
- Plexiglas or Acrylic for door panels
- 3 sets of 12″ drawer slides
- 2 sets of hinges
- Cabinet pulls
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
- Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
- 3 – 1×2 at 8′
- 2 – 1×3 at 8′
- 2 – 1×6 at 8′
- 1 – 2×2 at 6′
- 2 – 2×2 at 8′
- 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood
- 4 – 2×2 at 32-1/2″ – Legs
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 28-1/2″ – Side Panels
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 28-1/2″ x 54″ – Back
- 2 – 2×2 at 54″ – Front Stretchers
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 54″ – Bottom Shelf
- 2 – 1×2 at 25-1/2″ – Front Dividers
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/4″ x 27″ – Divider Panels
- 2 – 1×2 at 17″ – Drawer Dividers
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 17-3/4″ – Shelves
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 55″ – Top Panel
- 2 – 1×2 at 14-1/2″ – Top Side Trim
- 1 – 1×2 at 58″ – Top Front Trim
- 4 – 1×3 at 11-3/4″ – Door Frame
- 4 – 1×3 at 25-1/4″ – Door Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 23-3/8″ – Door X Detail
- 4 – 1×2 at 11-5/16″ – Door X Detail
- 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/2″ x 14-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
- 6 – 1×6 at 10-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
- 6 – 1×6 at 16″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-1/4″ x 16-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each long edge of the side panels. Secure the side panels to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the legs.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each of the shorter edges. Secure the back panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the front legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom shelf. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the bottom shelf to the side panels, back panel, and lower front stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the panel will be flush with the top face of the lower stretcher.
Cut the pieces for the front dividers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the front dividers to the front stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the divider panels and cut the notch using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown treating the pieces as a left and a right. Secure the divider panels to the back, bottom shelf, and front dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside face of the dividers panels (with the pocket holes) will be flush with the inside edges of the front dividers. This way, the pocket holes will be hidden by the drawer boxes.
Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Secure the shelves in each cubby as shown, securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in each side edge as well as one long edge of the top panel. Also drill pocket holes in one end of each shorter trim piece. Secure the side trim pieces to the sides of the top panel using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the front trim piece using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the front dividers. This easy tutorial on installing drawer slides will be super-helpful! Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. Take a look at this fabulous tutorial on installing drawer fronts!
Cut the pieces for the door frame and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the door frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the X detail. The angles can be cut by setting the miter saw to the angle degree given or by making a mark on the board at the dimension indicated and drawing a diagonal line from one corner of the board to the mark then cutting with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. One pocket hole can be drilled at each end of the pieces, as well. Dry fit the pieces first trimming the angles as necessary. Secure the pieces inside the door frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces of Plexiglas or acrylic as shown. The material will overlap the opening of the door frame by 1/2″ on each side. Drill a hole in each corner and secure the material to the inside of the door frames using a 3/4″ screw.
Install the hinges on the door, then install the doors in the openings. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the doors in the openings.
Finish as desired.
The sideboard would be an excellent addition to any room. It would also make a fabulous media stand! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Myron Sideboard? Leave a comment below!