DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Contemporary Media Stand
This is the perfect plan for those who like modern, contemporary furniture. The DIY furniture plans to build a Contemporary Media Stand feature two offset boxes: one with legs and open shelving, the other with two drawers making this stand an awesome piece of storage!
- 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4″ brad nails
- 1-3/4″ brad nails
- 1-1/4″ screws
- 2″ screws
- Edge banding, optional
- 2 sets of 14″ ball-bearing drawer slides
- Cabinet pulls
- 8 – nail-on furniture glides
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
- Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
- Jigsaw or bandsaw
- Table saw
- Iron for edge banding
- Pocket hole jig
- Right angle drill attachment (for tight spaces)
- Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
- Drawer slide jig (optional)
- 1 – 1-1/2″ wide x 3/8″ thick craft boards at 3′
- 6 – 1×2 at 8′
- 2 – 1×8 at 6′
- Scraps of 2×2 at a total of 2′
- 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
- 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
- 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
- 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-3/4″ x 48″ – Box Top & Bottom x2
- 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 9-1/2″ x 15-3/4″ – Box Sides & Divider x2
- 2 – 2×2 at 11″ – Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 15-3/4″ – Drawer Slide Spacers (attached to lower box sides)
- 2 – 3/8″ x 1-1/2″ craft boards at 15-3/4″ – Drawer Slide Spacers (attached to lower box dividers)
- 2 – 1/4″ plywood at 10-1/4″ x 47-1/4″ – Back
- 4 – 1×2 at 11″ – Face Frame Sides
- 4 – 1×2 at 48″ – Face Frame Top & Bottom
- 2 – 1×2 at 8″ – Face Frame Dividers
- 4 – 1×8 at 14″ – Drawer Box Sides
- 4 – 1×8 at 19-1/4″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 2 – 1/4″ plywood at 13″ x 19-3/4″ – Drawer Box Bottom
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-3/4″ x 21-1/2″ – Drawer Fronts
Click on the drawings for a larger view!
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.
Two boxes will be constructed for this project, and will be constructed at the same time in exactly the same manner. Cut the pieces for the top, bottom, sides and divider. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges of the sides and dividers. Secure the sides and divider to the bottom piece using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Secure the top to the sides and divider using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. A right angle attachment for the drill may be needed for the tight space.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper in the legs using a jigsaw, a bandsaw or a tapering jig on a table saw. Secure the legs to the left side of one of the boxes (as shown in the drawing) using glue and 2″ screws through the bottom into the top of the legs. The legs will be positioned 3/4″ in from the sides with the side faces flush with the front and back edge of the bottom piece.
Position the box with the legs on top of the other box off setting it by 23-1/4″. Secure the upper box to the lower box using glue and 1-1/4″ screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer slide spacers. The 1×2 spacers will be attached to the sides of the lower box while the 3/8″ spacers will be attached to the divider. Secure the spacers in their respective places as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The 3/8″ spacers will be clamped in place on the divider the the brad nails will be driven through each side (the brad nails will be slightly too long if securing one side at a time).
Cut the pieces for the back. Secure the back pieces to each of the boxes using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Cut the all of the pieces for the face frames. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 8″ pieces as well as in each mitered edge of the longer top and bottom pieces. The pocket holes are not shown in the drawing.
Secure the face frames to the front of each box using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The top, bottom and sides will be flush with the top, bottom and sides of the boxes.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box front and back pieces on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight.
Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box front to the drawer box sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides (behind the face frames on the slide supports). Draw a line 4-1/2″ up from the bottom of the drawer box. Align the holes of the drawer portion of the slide along these holes (which will be the center line) and secure in place. Install the drawer and make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.
Finish as desired. Secure the nail-on furniture glides to the bottom of the lower box (six total) and secure one on each of the legs.
The boxes can easily be reversed so that the legs are on the right or drawers on the top, whatever is desired! Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Contemporary Media Stand? Leave a comment below!