The Kate Chair Plans

How to Build a Kate Side Chair

Have you ever tried to build a chair? I was intimidated the very first time I saw chair plans and then I tried it… Building chairs is much easier than you think! The Kate Chair plans only look complicated but the plans, as with any chair plans I design, are very straight forward and produce a very sturdy piece of furniture!

Materials:

• 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws (<– affiliate link!)
• 1-1/4″ screws
• 2″ screws
• 3″ screws
• 1-1/4″ brad nails
• Wood glue
• Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
• Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

The Cushions:

The cushions required for the chair will have to be custom made (unless you are lucky enough to find some that fit!). The seat measures 33-1/2″ long x 25″ wide x 4″ high and will require 1-1/2 yards of fabric.. The back will measure 25″ wide x 16″ high x 4″ deep and will require 1 yard of 60″ fabric. I have a tutorial on creating a basic box cushion that is very easy to follow!

Lumber:

• 1 – 1×2 at 6′
• 2 – 1×3 at 6′
• 1 – 1×12 at 8′
• Scrap of 2×2 at 22″ (a 2×4 can also be ripped down to 1-1/2″ wide)
• 3 – 2×4 at 8′
• Half sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

• 2 – 2×4 at 36-7/8″ – Back Legs
• 1 – 2×2 at 22″ – Upper Back Framing
• 2 – 2×4 at 22″ – Back Supports
• 2 – 1×12 at 33-1/2″ – Seat Frame
• 1 – 1×12 at 23-1/2″ – Seat Frame
• 2 – 2×4 at 24-1/2″ – Front Legs
• 2 – 2×4 at 34-3/16″ – Arms
• 2 – 1×2 at 14-1/4″ – Upper Back Frame
• 2 – 1×2 at 19″ – Upper Back Frame
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-1/8″ x 22″ – Lower Back
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 22″ – Upper Back
• 4 – 1×3 at 32-3/4″ – Seat Supports
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 23-1/2″ x 32-3/4″ – Seat

 

Notes:

The chair is constructed using countersunk screws though there are a few pocket holes in areas where the countersunk screws would not be practical. The holes from the countersunk screws will then be filled using the method of your choice – filler, plugs, Dry Dex, etc.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the back legs. Cut the angles using a jigsaw or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the pieces for the upper back framing and back supports. The 2×2 framing piece will be located at the top of the legs (following the angle of the upper legs), and will be secured by using glue and countersunk 3″ screws. The 2×4 support pieces will be secured using countersunk 3″ screws through the leg into the piece, positioned as shown and located 3/4″ back from the front edge of the legs. For proper placement of the countersink holes, it is much easier to draw the placement lines on the pieces, then drill the holes.

 

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the seat frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the front piece as well as the back edge of the side pieces. Assemble the frame by securing the front piece to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then secure the frame to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front legs. The top edge will have a 3° angle cut in the top that will slope to the back. Position the legs as shown, then secure using countersunk 2″ screws from the inside of the frame into the legs. It is helpful to draw lines inside and outside of the frame to help with positioning.

 

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the arms. The arms will be secured to the top of the front legs and the sides of the back legs using glue and countersunk 3″ screws. The inside face of the arms will be flush with the inside face of the front legs.

 

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the upper back frame and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces. Also drill pocket holes around the outside edge of the frame to secure the frame to the upper back (these are NOT shown in the drawing). Position the frame with the top against the upper back framing piece, locating it 3/4″ back from the front edge of the upper back to allow for the plywood piece. Secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 

Step Six

Cut the plywood piece for the lower back. Secure to the back supports (the piece will align with the uppermost back support) using glue and countersunk 2″ screws. The plywood piece should fit in between the back legs and sit flush with the front edge of the legs.

 

Step Seven

Cut the plywood piece for the upper back. Cut a 7° bevel along the lower edge of the piece. The bevel will allow it to rest on top of the lower back and still follow the angle of the upper back legs. Secure to the back frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

 

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the seat supports.  Secure the side pieces first (locating them 3/4″ down from the top edge of the sides) using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. Secure the center pieces (locating them 3/4″ down from the top edge of the frame and even with the side supports) using glue and countersunk 2″ screws from the front frame piece as well as through the lower back.

 

Step Nine

Cut the plywood piece for the seat. It will sit flush with the seat frame pieces. Secure to the supports using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

 The Kate Chair plans would be great constructed out of lumber suitable for outdoor use – how fabulous would that be on a deck or porch? Please contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com with any questions!

Disclaimer:

This post contains links to a site of which I am an affiliate. What that means is if the link is clicked and a purchase is made, I will get a commission of that sale. Rest assured I would only direct my readers to sites I shop at myself!

Originally posted 2014-02-17 08:00:12.