A Fabulous Bookcase to Add to the Holly Collection
Hey there! Just wanted to give you a heads up that I’ve already shared some awesome plans in the Holly Collection for a dining table, dining chair, bench, and console table. But guess what? I’ve got something new for you! Introducing the DIY furniture plans for the Holly Bookcase. It’s got those cool inset aprons just like the other pieces, plus three shelves. The best part? It’s super easy to build and you can totally finish it in just one weekend! So get ready to add some style to your space with this fantastic bookcase.
The DIY furniture plans to build a Holly Bookcase are suitable for all skill levels!
- 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4″ brad nails
- 1-1/4″ screws
- Edge banding, optional
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
- Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
- 5 – 1×2 at 8′
- 2 – 2×2 at 8′
- 8 – 3/4″ square dowels at 4′
- 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
- 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
- 4 – 2×2 at 39-1/4″ – Legs
- 6 – 1×2 at 11″ – Side Framing
- 4 – 3/4″ square dowels at 11″ – Side Framing
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11″ x 35-1/2″ – Side Panels
- 4 – 1×2 at 27″ – Stretchers
- 4 – 3/4″ square dowels at 27″ – Stretchers
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14″ x 27″ – Bottom
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 27″ x 35-1/2″ – Back
- 4 – 1×2 at 10-1/4″ – Shelf Framing
- 4 – 1×2 at 27″ – Shelf Framing
- 2 – 3/4″ square dowels at 27″ – Shelf Framing
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 27″ – Shelves
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14″ x 30″ – Top
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.
Cut the pieces for the side framing. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill one pocket hole in each end of the 1×2 pieces. Locate each pocket hole toward one long edge (the back). Place a 3/4″ dowel piece on the face of four of the 1×2 pieces opposite the pocket holes. The dowel pieces will be flush with the back edges of the 1×2 pieces. Secure the dowels in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.
On two of the framing assemblies, position the remaining 1×2 pieces on top of the dowels with the pocket holes facing up and the back edges flush. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Secure the framing assemblies to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The lower framing pieces will have two 1×2 pieces with a square dowel in the center while the upper framing pieces will have one 1×2 with a dowel on top of it.
Cut the pieces for the side panels and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the panels to the legs and framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the side framing and legs.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill one pocket hole at each end located at the back edge of each 1×2 piece. Secure a 3/4″ square dowel to the opposite face at the back edge using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Secure the assemblies to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends. Position the bottom piece on the lower stretchers, securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the bottom into the stretchers. Secure the sides of the bottom using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the back to the legs, bottom, and upper back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face will be flush with the back face of the stretchers.
Cut the pieces for the shelf framing. Attach a 3/4″ dowel to the back edge of two of the longer 1×2 pieces. (This will be the front of the frame.) Drill two pocket holes in one end of the shorter pieces, and one pocket hole in the other end, treating each shorter piece as s left and a right. Assemble the frame as shown, using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Insert a 1-1/4″ brad nails through the 3/4″ dowels into the end of the side framing where there is no pocket hole.
Position the frames inside the cabinet, securing to the sides and back using 1-1/4″ screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Position the shelves on the shelf frames, securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Cut the piece for the top. Position the top as shown (there will be no overhang), securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Finish as desired.
The DIY furniture plans to build a Holly bookcase are the perfect plans for those new to woodworking. The bookcase would look great in any decor, and can be finished in a variety of ways! Have any questions about the plans? Leave a comment below!
Originally posted 2015-01-26 08:00:30.