A Fabulous Ballard Designs Inspired Table – DIY Furniture Plans
Hey there! You won’t believe how simple it is to build this amazing table, inspired by one from the Ballard Designs catalog. Our DIY furniture plans for the knock-off Hudson Dining Table include a double layered plywood top, supported by stylish black pipe and X legs. Don’t worry if you’re new to furniture building, because this top is a breeze to construct. You can easily finish it in just one weekend!
- 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
- 1″ angle brackets with screws, optional
- 2″ edge banding, optional (<– affiliate link!)
- Contact cement
- 2 – 3/4″ black pipe caps
- 2 – 3/4″ x 3″ black pipe nipples
- 2 – 3/4″ black pipe couplers
- 1 – 3/4″ black pipe cut to custom length of approximately 57″ (measure before cutting)
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
- Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
- Table saw or circular saw
- Miter saw
- Pocket hole jig
- 3/4″ hole saw or paddle bit
- 4 – 2×3 at 8′ OR
- 2 – 2×6 at 8′ ripped in half
- 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood
- 2 – 2×3 at 42-13/16″ – Legs
- 2 – 2×3 at 17-3/16″ – Legs
- 2 – 2×3 at 22-15/16″ – Legs
- 2 – 2×3 at 21″ – Base (X Leg Connector)
- 2 – 2×3 at 59″ – Base (Aprons)
- 2 – 2×3 at 20″ – Top Supports
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 42″ x 72″ – Top
Notes about the project:
All angles on the legs and base (X leg connectors) are cut at 45°.
The pieces for the top are laminated to each other using contact cement. The edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood top prior to assembly.
The top can be secured to the base using 1″ angle brackets or by drilling pocket holes in the aprons and X leg connectors, then using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.
The black pipe can be spray painted any color after cleaning with mineral spirits to remove any special coating on the pipe.
Cut the pieces for the legs as shown in the drawing. Using a drill with a 3/4″ hole saw or paddle bit, drill a hole through each longer leg as shown.
Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in the square end of the shorter legs. The shorter pieces will be secured to the longer pieces using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the X leg connectors on the base. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces in the miters as shown in the drawing, then secure to the top of the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the aprons and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the aprons to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws so that the top edges are flush and the bottom outside edge of the apron meets the edge of the leg. This means the angle of the legs may extend past the apron – see drawing. If using pocket hole screws to attach the top to the base, drill the holes in the aprons and the X leg connectors.
Cut the pieces for the top supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the aprons using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Apply a coat of contact cement to one face of each plywood piece for the top, according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once the cement is dry, align the plywood pieces so the faces with contact cement are facing each other and pace them together. Apply pressure to make sure the faces make contact, then apply the edge banding.
Secure the base to the underside of the top using pocket hole screws or 1″ angle brackets.
Flip the table over, then finish as desired.
For the pipe connector (this keeps the legs from splaying out), clean and paint as desired. Add the couplers to each end of the longer pipe. Add the pipe nipples through the holes in the legs and into the opposite end of the couplers (the longer pipe will be in the middle). Add the caps to the pipe nipples on the outside of the legs.
This table can be finished in any way you choose – painted, stained, stenciled, etc. – and will look fabulous! Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a knock-off Hudson Dining Table? Leave a comment below!