Mid Century Modern Design Chair Plans
Mid Century Modern design is still a popular style with its simplicity and sleek, clean, almost “futuristic” look! I was contacted by Michelle asking for Mid Century Modern design chair plans and even included a photo! I have to say – drawing this chair has been quite the challenge with all of the angles and such, but it was fun none the less! I always like a good challenge!
UPDATED 10/1/23: I noticed that I did not add the drawing showing the angle in the top of the leg nor did I show the taper for the arm. These have been corrected and added, and I also included a template for the angled rear leg to make cutting easier.
This chair will be geared toward more intermediate builders as there are a lot of angles to cut. The angle degrees are shown in the drawings, as well as the dimensions to draw and cut the angle without using degrees. Sometimes, I find it to be easier to draw a diagonal line and cut along that line. Also, there are no instructions for the upholstery which will be two box cushions made to fit. (See this post for a tutorial on making box cushions!) At any rate, here are the first set of MCM plans for DbSC!
Materials:
- 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4″ brad nails
- T-Bevel (<– affiliate link!)
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
- Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
Lumber:
- Scrap of 1×3 at 2′
- 1 – 1×4 at 8′
- 2 – 2×2 at 6′
- 2 – 2×3 at 8′
- 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
Cut List:
- 2 – 2×3 at 37-11/16″ – Sides
- 2 – 2×3 at 18-5/8″ – Front Legs
- 2 – 2×2 at 28-1/2″ – Side Back
- 2 – 1×4 at 24″ – Front & Back Stretchers
- 2 – 2×3 at 24″ – Back
- 2 – 2×3 at 11-3/4″ – Back
- 2 – 2×2 at 25-1/2″ – Arms
- 2 – 1×4 at 22″ – Side Stretchers
- 1 – 1×3 at 22-1/2″ – Seat Support
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 24″ x 26″ – Seat
Step One
Cut the pieces for the sides to length. Print the template and tape the sheets together. Draw all of the angled cut lines as shown, then cut using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Clamp the two pieces together and sand as one piece. This is called “gang sanding” which helps the piece be more identical in shape.
Step Two
Cut the pieces for the front legs. Draw the taper on the pieces, then cut using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in the wider end of each piece noting that there will be a right leg and a left leg, and that the angles will be positioned so they face down (the straight edge will be on the top). Secure the legs to the underside of the side pieces using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Step Three
Cut the pieces for the side back. Cut the angle in the bottom edge of each piece. Drill pocket holes in the angled edge noting that there will be a right and a left piece. Position the side back pieces on the flat area of the sides, then secure using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Step Four
Cut the piece for the front and back stretchers. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Cut the notch in the front piece as shown, then secure to the front legs following the slant of the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step Five
Cut the pieces for the back rest. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material, and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position the pieces as shown following the slant of the side back pieces, then secure using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Position the back stretcher as shown following the slant of the side pieces then secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step Six
Cut the pieces for the arms. Draw the taper on the pieces then cut using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in the wider end of each arm piece. Note that there will be a right and a left, and that the angles will face up. Secure to the the side back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the front of the arm to the front of the side using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Step Seven
Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. The angles will be cut to fit. Use the t-bevel to figure the angle of the front and back, then cut the stretchers to fit. Drill pocket holes in each end noting that there will be a right and a left. Secure to the front and back stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. A couple of countersunk screws through the side stretcher into the side piece would add extra stability, if desired.
Step Eight
Cut the piece for the seat support and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the support in the center of the side stretchers flush with the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step Nine
Cut the piece for the seat. If using edge banding, apply it before securing the seat to the frame. Position the seat so that the front overhangs the frame by 3-3/4″, then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Fill all holes and finish as desired!
The Mid Century Modern design chair plans should be fairly easy to construct – don’t rush the job, just take your time! There are lots of angles but don’t let that deter you from building from these great plans!
