Build a Janikka Table

Free Plans Inspired by Seventh Ave

Let me start off by saying that the inspiration piece for this plan is finished in the most ah-mazing shade of green… I found a match for the paint and added the plans to my “to build” list! However, when I did build the piece, I didn’t use the green paint – I used a bright pink (Strawberry Daiquiri by Behr) and it sits in my daughter’s room. I lined the inside with black and white adhesive shelf paper. She loves it!

Now that I’ve got that tidbit off my chest, the free plans to build a Janikka Table, inspired by Seventh Ave., should be a very simple build. The table itself is narrow with false drawer fronts which are actually doors. The legs feature a bevel cut in the outside-facing edge (completely optional) and the top is constructed of plywood with solid wood edging so a fancy routed edge can be applied if desired!

Materials:

• 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws (<– affiliate link!)
• 3/4″ brad nails
• 1-1/4″ brad nails
• Two sets of hinges (<– affiliate link!)
• Cabinet pulls
• Finishing supplies

Lumber:

• 2 – 2×2 at 8′
• 2 – 1×2 at 8′
• 1 – 1×4 at 6′
• One sheet of 3/4″ plywood
• One quarter sheet of 1/2″ plywood

Cut List:

• 4 – 2×2 at 29-1/4″ – Legs
• 2 – 1×2 at 10″ – Side Frames
• 2 – 1×4 at 10″ – Side Frames
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 10-1/4″ – Side Panels
• 2 – 1×2 at 25″ – Back Panel & Front Stretcher
• 2 – 1×4 at 25″ – Back Panel & Front Stretcher
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/4″ x 25″ – Back Panel
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-1/2″ x 26-1/2″ – Shelf
• 1 – 1×2 at 10-1/4″ – Divider
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 11″ x 26″ – Top
• 2 – 1×2 at 11″ – Top Edging
• 2 – 1×2 at 29″ – Top Edging
• 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 10″ x 11-15/16″ – Door Base
• 4 – 1/2″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 11-15/16″ – False Drawers (Doors)
• 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 3/4″ x 11-15/16″- False Divider (Doors)

Click on the drawings to enlarge them!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. The decorative edge is optional and can be cut on the table saw (setting the blade at a 45 deg. angle) or by using a 45 deg. chamfer bit on a router. The lower angle can be cut using a jigsaw. Keep in mind there will be two left legs and two right legs!

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the side frames and panels. Cut the angle as shown in the lower frame piece using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Attach the lower frame piece to the panel using glue and pocket hole screws. The upper frame piece will be positioned so the front edge overhangs the panel by 1/4″. Attach the side panels to the legs using glue and pocket hole screws. The lower part of the frame will be positioned 1/4″ back from the outside edge of the legs.

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the back frame and panel. Cut the angle as shown in the lower frame piece using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Attach the lower frame piece to the panel using glue and pocket hole screws. The upper frame piece will be positioned so the front edge overhangs the panel by 1/4″. Attach the side panels to the legs using glue and pocket hole screws. The lower part of the frame will be positioned 1/4″ back from the outside edge of the legs.

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Cut the curve in the lower front stretcher identical to the back lower frame piece. Attach the pieces to the legs as shown using glue and pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretcher will be flush with the front face of the legs.

Step Five

Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in all four edges and attach to the underside of the shelf using glue and pocket hole screws. The top of the shelf will be flush with the top of the lower stretcher.

Step Six

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach as shown using glue and pocket hole screws.

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the top. Drill pocket holes in all four edge of the plywood panel. Attach the side trim pieces first using glue and pocket hole screws, then attach the front and back pieces. Rout a decorative edge, if desired. Position the top with 1/2″ overlapping on each side and secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the doors. The false drawer pieces will be attached to the base piece using glue and 3/4″ brad nails. Attach the hinges to the doors, then attach to the opening. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the doors.

Finish as desired!

The free plans to build a Janikka Table are really easy to construct. I had mine built in a couple of days. I really love the look of the false “drawers” on the doors and I think it adds a nice touch! Share your fabulous work with me… Send photos to cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com or designsbystudioc {at} gmail {dot} com. I would love to feature your work on DbSC!

Originally posted 2014-03-31 08:00:11.