Build a Bandengan Side Table

Plans to Build the Bandengan Side Table – a table with LOTS of style!

This table has an interesting look to it… There are decorative grooves cut in the legs and the aprons, all made with a table saw. The plans to build the Bandengan side table are really easy (even with the grooves) and I had a lot of fun building it. The hard part is trying to figure out how I want to finish it!

plans build bandengan side table_Copy

plans build bandengan side table SANY3029Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)


  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′ (or 1 – 1×6 ripped to 1-1/2″ wide)
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8′ (or 1 – 2×4 at 4′ ripped in half)
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ piece of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 19-3/4″ – Legs
  • 8 – 1×2 at 17″ – Stretchers
  • 20 – 1×2 at 3-1/2″ – Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 18″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18″ – Top Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 21″ – Top Trim

plans build bandengan side table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle in the lower portion of the legs using a jigsaw or by using a miter saw. The decorative grooves are cut on the table saw. Remove the blade guard and the splitter from the saw. Lower the blade to 1/2″ from the table and set the rip fence to 4″ from the blade. Make a pass with each table leg on one face opposite the angle, then make another pass on the adjoining face. The grooves will face to the outside of the leg and the angle will face in. There will be a pair of “rights” and a pair of “lefts”.

plans build bandengan side table_Legs

plans build bandengan side table SANY3023

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Cut the grooves in one edge of each stretcher by setting the rip fence to 1/4″ from the blade (the depth of the blade should still be set at 1/2″ with the guard and the splitter removed) and make a pass with each piece. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end.

Cut the shorter vertical pieces for the stretchers. Mark the position for the pieces on the stretchers. Secure the pieces to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails orienting the pocket holes on the stretchers so they face away from the center. This way, they won’t have to be filled!

plans build bandengan side table SANY3014

plans build bandengan side table SANY3015

plans build bandengan side table_Stretchers 1

plans build bandengan side table SANY3019

Step Three

Secure the stretcher assemblies to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

plans build bandengan side table_Sides

plans build bandengan side table_Stretchers 2

plans build bandengan side table SANY3020Step Four

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the top, as well as each end of the shorter trim pieces. Secure the shorter trim pieces first using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then secure the longer trip pieces.

The top will overhang the frame by 1/2″ on all sides. Position the top, then secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

plans build bandengan side table_Top 1

plans build bandengan side table SANY3030

plans build bandengan side table SANY3028

Finish as desired!

How do you think I should finish the table I built from the plans to build a Bandengan side table? A stained top and painted base? All paint? Let me know by leaving a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

  • Lori

    I think staining the top, doing the outside square a dark color and a light color for the inset. Then I would go ahead and dark stain the lower part as well, but stain the stretchers the same light color as the inset.

    • CherTexter

      That is a really awesome idea! Thank you so much for the suggestion and for stopping by!

  • Jake

    In the photo the top outside square looks more like 1x3s (or 1×4) but neither shows in the lumber or cut list. Really nice side table that can be sized to fit anyone’s particular needs.

    • CherTexter

      Hi, Jake! That is true, they are wider. I didn’t have any larger pieces of scrap birch plywood for the center, and didn’t want to buy any more plywood – yet! This project, for me, was built by raiding the scrap pile. The 2×2 and 1×2 pieces are ripped from 2×6 pieces I found in the cull bin at Home Depot last summer! The 2x6s have the prettiest, clear grain!

Designs by Studio C is your DIY connection to How-To information, DIY projects and free furniture plans. Have questions about the plans? Contact me at!
Some posts on DbSC contain affiliate links. What this means is that if the link is clicked and a sale is made, I will make a small profit. Product links and sponsored posts are what help keep DbSC going - thank you for the support!