Let’s Get Bookish: Building Your Dream Bookcase!
If I had a space large enough, I would have this bookcase! Huge in stature, this bookcase features eight lower drawers, two lower cabinets each with doors and a shelf, and several shelves at the top. Plus, there is room for customization at the top – the top area where the trim is located can be stenciled, painted a different color, or even carved! If staining, why not try the Glue-Resist Technique? It would be beautiful! However you choose to finish it, these plans to build a large stately bookcase will have you producing a gorgeous piece of furniture in no time!
Materials:
- 1″ pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
- 3/4″ brad nails
- 1-1/4″ brad nails
- Edge banding, optional (<– affiliate link!)
- 8 sets of 16″ drawer slides
- 4 sets of hinges
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
- Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
Lumber:
- 4 – 1×2 at 8′
- 5 – 1×3 at 8′
- 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
- 4 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood (PureBond would be an excellent choice!)
- Crown Molding and Trim for Top Front
Cut List:
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 82-1/2″ – Bottom
- 3 – 1×3 at 18-3/4″ – Bottom Supports
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 29-1/4″ – Lower Sides
- 1 – 1×3 at 82-1/2″ – Lower Kick Plate
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 26″ x 82-1/2″ – Lower Back
- 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-3/4″ x 26″ – Lower Dividers
- 2 – 1×2 at 26-1/8″ – Door Stretchers
- 8 – 1×2 at 14″ – Drawer Stretchers
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-3/4″ x 26-1/8″ – Lower Shelves
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 82″ – Lower Top
- 1 – 1×2 at 85″ – Lower Top Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 18-1/2″ – Lower Top Trim
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 59-1/4″ – Upper Sides
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 29-5/8″ x 82-1/2″ – Upper Back
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 84″ – Upper Top
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 82-1/2″ – Top Front Supports
- 1 – 1×2 at 82-1/2″ – Top Front Supports
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-3/4″ x 82-1/2″ – Top Front
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/4″ x 48-1/2″ – Upper Dividers
- 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/4″ x 28-3/4″ – Center Shelves
- 8 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/4″ x 26-1/8″ – Side Shelves
- 8 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-1/2″ x 14-1/2″ – Drawer Box bottoms
- 16 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 14-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
- 16-3/4″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 13″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 8 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-5/16″ x 13-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts
- 8 – 1×3 at 7-7/8″ – Door Rails
- 8 – 1×3 at 24-1/4″ – Door Stiles
- 4 – 1/2″ plywood at 7-7/8″ x 19-1/4″ – Door Panels
- Crown molding and trim for Top Front cut to fit
Notes:
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.
If staining, the 1×2 pieces and 1×3 pieces can be cut from plywood (except for the Lower Top Trim pieces) to ensure cohesion of the wood species. Edge banding will have to be applied to the exposed edges and an additional sheet of plywood will have to be purchased.
Step One
Cut the pieces for the bottom and the bottom supports. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in one long edge of each support piece, as well as each shorter edge of the bottom. Secure the supports to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step Two
Cut the pieces for the lower sides. Secure the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the toe kick and drill pocket holes in each shorter edge. Secure the toe kick to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the toe kick to the supports using 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Step Three
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the bottom and the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step Four
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges, as well as the back edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown orienting the pocket holes toward the drawer areas so they won’t have to be filled. Secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step Five
Cut the pieces for the door stretchers and the drawer stretchers, then drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides and dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step Six
Cut the pieces for the lower shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the back edges. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step Seven
Cut the pieces for the lower top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in one edge only of each side trim piece as well as the sides and front edges of the top panel. Secure the side trim pieces to the sides of the panel using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then secure the front.
Position the top so that the front and sides overhang by 1/2″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket holes through the back and dividers. Secure the top to the sides and front stretchers using 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Step Eight
Cut the pieces for the upper sides and drill pocket holes in the bottom edges only. Secure to the lower top using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, locating the pieces flush with the back edge of the top and 1/2″ in from the sides.
Step Nine
Cut the pieces for the upper back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of one piece, and the sides and bottom edges of the other pieces. Secure the pieces to each other using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the back to the sides and lower top using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the upper top. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the back, then secure the sides using 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Step Ten
Cut the pieces for the top front supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The 1×2 support piece will be located 3/4″ back from the front edges of the sides, and the lower support piece will be flush with the back.
Cut the piece for the top front. Secure to the supports and the top using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Step Eleven
Cut the pieces for the upper dividers. Drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges, as well as the back edge. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step Twelve
Cut the pieces for the center shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge. Secure to the dividers and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the side shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge. Secure to the dividers and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step Thirteen
Cut the pieces for the crown molding and the upper trim to fit, then secure using glue and brad nails. Use 1-1/4″ brad nails for the crown molding, and 3/4″ brad nails for the upper trim.
Step Fourteen
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Here’s a great tutorial on how to install drawer fronts! Make any necessary adjustments.
Step Fifteen
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. I wrote a tutorial on installing drawer fronts that may be very helpful!
Step Sixteen
Cut the pieces for the door frames and panels. Drill pocket holes in each end of the door rails. Set the pocket hole jig for 1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the rails to the panels using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the rails. Secure the panel assemblies to the door stiles using glue and pocket hole screws. Use 1″ pocket hole screws through the panel and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the rails.
There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the doors as well as in between the pairs. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet.
Finish as desired!
These plans to build a large stately bookcase will have you creating a gorgeous and functional piece of furniture sure to fit into any decor! The plans are easy to follow but if you get stuck, let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!
Originally posted 2013-12-02 08:00:27.
12 Comments
I love this cher. omgawd how i love this. it’s beautiful.
Thank you so much, Vanita!
I love this… Wish I had the time and the energy to do it.
I know what you mean!!
This one would indeed accommodate the huge collection of books I have that are currently overflowing from my bookshelf 🙁 Looks good Cher 🙂
Thank you so much, Vinma!
What a fabulous piece + I love your enthusiasm – you can have this gorgeous piece in no time. Not in our household Cher. I wish. 😀
Awww, you can do it, Elle! You’re awesome like that!!
I wish you lived closer, Cher. Sigh. I’d take over your breakfast, lunch, dinner and tea/coffee snacks while you made a couple of these for me. 😀 I have a thing for bookshelves!
Awww, thank you, Vidya!
I love that bookcase. I can’t build it for myself because I would have to suspend it from the ceiling which would defeat the purpose of a bookshelf, right?
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