DIY Plans to Build a Port Modern Dresser
Plain and simple lines seem to be popular these days. The DIY plans to build a Port Modern Dresser fits that bill perfectly with its simplicity, four large drawers, and open base frame. This plan is perfect for those new to woodworking or even for those who want to tackle a quick project. The base frame can be painted a different color, maybe in metallic paint, for a nifty contrast!
- 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws (<– affiliate link)
- 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
- 1-1/2″ screws
- 1-1/4″ brad nails
- Edge banding, optional (<– affiliate link)
- 4 sets of 18″ drawer slides (<– affiliate link)
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
- Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
- 2 – 1×2 at 8′
- 4 – 1×10 at 8′
- 4 – 2×2 at 8′
- 3 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood
- 4 – 2×2 at 8″ – Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 18″ – Base Frame Sides
- 4 – 2×2 at 67″ – Base Frame Front & Back
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/4″ x 23-1/4″ – Sides
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 23-1/4″ x 68-1/2″ – Back
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 68-1/2″ – Bottom
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 22-1/2″ – Divider
- 4 – 1×2 at 33-7/8″ – Front Stretchers
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/4″ x 70″ – Top
- 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 31-3/8″ – Drawer Box Bottom
- 8 – 1×10 at 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
- 8 – 1×10 at 32-7/8″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-1/2″ x 34-15/16″ – Drawer Fronts
Click on the drawings for a larger view!
Cut the pieces for the legs and the base frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Note that the lower framing pieces are positioned 1″ up from the bottom of the legs.
Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in the upper and lower edges of the sides. Secure the sides to the base frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, positioning the pieces so the outside face is flush with the outside face of the side framing and 3/4″ back from the front framing.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the back to the sides and the base frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside face of the back is flush with the outside face of the back framing.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure the bottom to the base framing using glue and countersunk 1-1/2″ screws.
Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes in the upper and lower edges, as well as the back edge. Secure the divider to the bottom and the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position the stretchers as shown noting that the two upper stretchers are positioned on their sides while the lower two stretchers are positioned on end. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. The top will be flush with the cabinet on all four sides. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the previously drilled pocket holes in the sides, back, and divider.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them flush with the front edge of the sides. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Starting with the bottom two drawer fronts, there will be a 1/8″ gap between the drawer fronts and the base frame, as well as a 1/8″ gap between them (the side edges will be flush with the sides). Shim the drawer fronts in place, then secure to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.
There will be a 13/16″ gap between the upper and lower drawer fronts so that the top edge of the upper drawer fronts is flush with the top. Secure the drawer fronts to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Finish as desired.
With the large drawers in this dresser, it would be a fabulous piece for china storage in a dining room. The dresser would also make a great piece for storing blankets in a guest room or entryway! This piece can also be used as a media stand. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Port Modern Dresser? Leave a comment below!
Originally posted 2015-06-19 08:00:23.