Plans to Build an Alexander Sideboard

A Fabulous Piece Perfect for Entertaining – DIY Furniture Plans

Hey there! This amazing furniture piece is just what you need for your next dinner party. It’s perfect for serving food buffet-style or showcasing your beautiful china and linens. The DIY plans for the Alexander sideboard include six drawers and three separate cubbies, one of which has doors. The best part is, it’s super easy to build and you can have it ready in just one weekend!

Materials:

• 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
• 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
• 1-1/4″ brad nails
• Edge banding, optional
• 6 sets of 14″ drawer slides
• Cabinet pulls
• Wood glue
• Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
• Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

• 1 – 1×2 at 6′
• 6 – 2×2 at 8′
• 3 sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

• 8 – 2×2 at 34-1/4″ – Legs
• 4 – 2×2 at 14-1/2″ – Side Framing
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 27-1/4″ – Side Panels
• 8 – 2×2 at 18″ – Back Stretchers
• 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 27-1/4″ – Back Panels
• 8 – 2×2 at 18″ – Front Stretchers
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 57″ – Bottom
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 28-3/4″ – Dividers
• 3 – 1×2 at 18″ – Front Drawer Stretchers
• 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 18″ – Drawer Shelves
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 61″ – Top
• 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 15-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
• 12 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 12-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
• 12 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 17″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
• 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 17-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 8-13/16″ x 14″ – Doors

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side framing, and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the legs and framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers.  Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material, and drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the back panels. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the legs and framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material, and drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Step Five

Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure to the lower stretchers on all sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face will be flush with the top face of the lowest stretchers.

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the bottom and side edges. Orient the pocket holes on the panels so they face toward the center cubby. The face without pocket holes will be flush with the leg faces in the open cubby areas. Secure to the legs and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the front drawer stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the drawer shelves and drill pocket holes in the side and back edge. Secure to the side panels, dividers, and back panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers. The spacers will be positioned in the center cubby only, attached to the dividers with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Step Ten

Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overhang by 1/2″. Secure the top using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. This easy tutorial on installing drawer slides will be helpful. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step Twelve

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. Take a look at this ieasy tutorial on installing drawer fronts for guidance.

Step Thirteen

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8″ gap around the doors in the opening as well as in between them. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the opening.

Finish as desired!

The sideboard would also be great as a dresser or as a cutting table and storage for a craft room! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build an Alexander sideboard? Let me know by leaving a comment below or by contacting me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

Originally posted 2014-08-22 08:00:52.