DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Tristan Media Stand

An Extra Wide Media Stand with Lots of Storage

This media stand is the perfect piece for large or small television sets. The DIY furniture plans to build a Tristan Media Stand feature two outer drawers each with a shelf above and one wide center drawer with a shelf above. This is a very easy build that can be completed in a weekend!

Materials:

• 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws (<– affiliate link!)
• 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
• 1-1/4″ brad nails
• 1-3/4″ brad nails
• Edge banding
• 3 sets of 16″ drawer slides
• Cabinet pulls
• Wood glue
• Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
• Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

• 4 – 1×6 at 8′
• 10 – 2×2 at 8′
• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
• 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

• 8 – 2×2 at 29-1/4″ – Legs
• 8 – 2×2 at 15″ – Side Framing
• 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 22-1/4″ – Side Panels
• 12 – 2×2 at 15″ – Upper, Middle & Lower Stretchers
• 6 – 2×2 at 37″ – Upper, Middle & Lower Stretchers
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 37″ – Upper Center Shelf
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-3/4″ x 16-1/2″ – Upper Side Shelves
• 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 15″ – Middle & Lower Side Shelves
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 37″ – Middle & Lower Center Shelves
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 73″ – Top
• 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 24-7/8″ x 71-1/2″ – Back
• 2 – 1×6 at 16″ – Center Drawer Box Sides
• 2 – 1×6 at 34-1/2″ – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
• 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 15″ x 35″ – Center Drawer Box Bottom
• 4 – 1×6 at 16″ – Side Drawer Box Sides
• 4 – 1×6 at 12-1/2″ – Side Drawer Box Front & Back
• 2 – 1/4″ plywood at 13″ x 15″ – Side Drawer Box Bottom
• 1 – 1×6 at 36-3/4″ – Center Drawer Front
• 2 – 1×6 at 14-3/4″ – Side Drawer Fronts

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, side framing and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the panels to the framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame.

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the upper, middle and lower stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the upper stretchers to the side assemblies using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Set the remaining stretchers aside.

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the side shelves. Cut the notch in each piece using a jigsaw. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in the side edges treating each piece as a left and a right. Secure the shelves to the side assemblies using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back edge of the shelves will be flush with the back face of the back legs while the front edge will be set 1-1/2″ back from the front face of the front legs.

Cut the piece for the center shelf and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the center shelf to the side assemblies using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back edge of the shelf will be flush with the back face of the back legs while the front edge will be set 1-1/2″ back from the front face of the front legs. The center shelf will be in line with the side shelves.

Step Four

Secure the middle and lower stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the middle and lower shelves. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each shelf. Starting with the middle shelves, secure the shelves to the middle stretchers and the side panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.

Secure the lower shelves in the same manner.

Step Six

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the top of the cabinet using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails through the top into the legs, side framing and stretchers.

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box front and back pieces on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight.

Step Ten

Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box front to the drawer box sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. This easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts will be helpful!

Finish as desired.

This media stand can also serve other uses in a variety of rooms – as a sideboard in a dining room or as a console table behind a sofa or in an entryway. Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Tristan Media Stand? Leave a comment below!

Originally posted 2015-12-21 08:00:20.