Plans to Build a Super Stylish Round End Table with an X Base!
The plans for this table only look complicated… The X base for the round end table is very easy to construct and is very big on style impact!
Materials:
- 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4″ screws
- 1-1/2″ edge banding, optional
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
- Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
Lumber:
- 1 sheet of 3/4″ plywood (PureBond plywood would be a great choice!!)
- 2 – 2×4 at 6′
Cut List:
- 2 – 2×4 at 15-7/16″ – X Base
- 2 – 2×4 at 15-1/4″ – X Base
- 2 – 2×4 at 33-5/16″ – X Base
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 26″ in diameter
Click on the drawings for a larger view!
Step One
Cut the pieces for the base. Note that the angles are NOT cut at 45 degrees. To cut the angles, draw a line perpendicular to the length of the board at the dimension indicated. For example, draw a line across the board 2-5/8″ down from the top edge of the first board, as shown in the upper left corner of the drawing. Then draw a diagonal line from the corner of the board to the opposite end of the line just drawn. This will be the cut line for the angle. Repeat this process for all of the angles on the boards. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes as shown noting that the pocket holes located in the lower edge of the piece shown in the upper left of the drawing will have to be drilled close together to allow for the notch that will be cut in the next step.
Step Two
Assemble the X as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. To cut the notch, start by drawing a horizontal line across the center of the X where the pieces meet. Draw a vertical line from where the pieces meet to the center of the horizontal line. Offset the center line by 3/4″ on each side (making a rectangle) then cut out the notch using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Note that one notch will face up toward the top of the X, and one notch will face down toward the bottom of the other X.
Step Three
Stack the pieces to form the base. It should be a tight fit, and sanding of the notches may be necessary.
Step Four
Cut the pieces for the top. I like to use the “string and push pin method” to draw circles. Cut out the pieces with a jigsaw or bandsaw. Spread glue on the face of one piece, then position the other piece on top. Wiggle the top piece a bit to create suction, then clamp the edges. Drive a few countersunk 1-1/4″ screws through the face to further secure the pieces together. Allow time for the glue to dry, then apply the 1-1/2″ edge banding.
Step Five
Position the base on the bottom of the table top then secure using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Finish as desired! The plans for this round x base end table are very easy to follow, right? If you have any questions let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com… I’d be happy to walk you through the build if you get stuck!
Originally posted 2013-10-10 08:00:16.
17 Comments
If you could help me that would be so great! I really like this table but wanted to make some changes due to where I want it in my house. I bought a 15 inch diameter table top from lowes that is 1 inch thick. Because of the smaller top, I decided to go with 2×2’s. I would like my total table height to be 23 1/2 inches. I can’t figure out the angles and lengths to get this to work….can you help me out?
Hi, Jessica! I don’t think 2x2s are going to work for this style. The reason being that 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws will have to be used to connect the legs to each main piece for the X and that leaves no room to cut the notch to stack the pieces. The only way I’m seeing this would work is if one X is built using pocket hole screws and the remaining pieces to construct the second X are attached using angle brackets. Let me know what you think!
Thank you for your reply! I can go with 2×4’s, especially if you can help me with my size changes. I was planning to use the 1 1/4″ screws with the 2×2’s but if you think that will not work with the notches, I will trust your expertise!
Hi, Jessica! No need to go with 2x4s… They would be too thick. 1x2s would work just fine and I’d be happy to draw it up if you’d like to go that route! Let me know! Thanks!
That would be great! Thanks!!
Ok, Jessica… I’ve attached an image of the modification for the 15″ top. Note that only one pocket hole screw will be used and shouldn’t interfere with the notch to be cut. I’ve also listed the angles that each piece should be cut at. Let me know how this works out – if you have any trouble, let me know!
Thank you so much!! I will be working on this tomorrow and will let you know how it turns out.
I really appreciate your help with this project, unfortunately I was not able to make it work. I never could get the pocket hole on the cut angles to work out. It just wasn’t sturdy enough. Almost each time I tried to put a screw in it would crack the wood. It would have looked really nice if I could have secured the screws. Thanks again. I attached a pic of my effort…
My effort…
So sorry! I replied to the email before I saw your comment here… Well, darn. I think the table looks great! Small angle brackets can be used at the center of the X on each of the four sides, and they can also be used to attach the base to the top. So sorry about that!
Hi cher texter. Can u help me for this kind of table. I got 48 inches round top.
I want to do the x base. My measurements are 32.5 diameter and 29.5 height.
Hi, Nikko! So, what is it you need help with? Altering the base to fit the top you have?
I need to know the angle cuts of the second X, coz i already made the 1st X and their measurements are 32.5 lenght and 29.5 height at 45 degrees . So i need the second X to fit to the 1st X.
If you can help me that will be great. Thank you!
Ok… If I draw out a piece for the X at 32-1/2″ long on a 45° angle, the height is 20-1/2″. In order for me to get 29-1/2″ in height, the piece would have to measure 45-3/16″ long.
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