Build a Bookcase Using an Old Door

How to Build a Bookcase Using an Old Door

The folks at PureBond Plywood posted a picture of a bookcase made with an old door on the PureBond Facebook page and I thought it was a fabulous idea! That particular bookcase was created by Gail at My Repurposed Life ~ how fantastic! I searched for an old door and finally found one at one of our local flea markets for $45 ~ not too bad since it was in fabulous condition and was bare wood which meant less work for me (no paint to strip)!

how to build a bookcase using an old door SANY2119 copy

I read Gail’s “how to” on the project and created instructions on how to build a bookcase using an old door with a few modifications. I added frames under the shelves, and a few more shelves but that was only because I can’t read my own instructions ~ lesson learned (I created them, too, which makes it really sad!!).

how to build a bookcase using an old door

Materials:

  • Solid wood door (mine was 30″ wide)
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 5 – 1×2 at 8′ (for 24″ wide frames)
  • 1 sheet of 3/4″ plywood (I used Purebond in Birch)
  • 1 sheet of 1/4″  lauan, plywood, or hardboard (for a continuous piece on the back – the back can be pieced if the seam is hidden behind a shelf!)
  • Trim for the top and bottom (I made mine with a routed edge on 1x material)

The drawings show dimensions – they are based on a 30″ door. Adjust the dimensions for a wider or narrower door!

Start by cutting the door in half lengthwise using a table saw or a circular saw and a helper!

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2052 

Cut the pieces for the shelf frames. Start with the side pieces ~ the top and bottom side pieces will be longer than the middle side pieces. Measure the width of the door. The top and bottom side pieces will be 1-3/4″” shorter than the width of the door. Position the pieces so that they are flush with the top edge and bottom edge of the door, and are 3/4″ back from the front edge (I used a spacer flush with the front edge). This will allow the front and back frame pieces to fit flush with the edges of the side pieces, as well as allow for the 1/4″ thick back to fit inside. (My side pieces are different in the photo because I didn’t read my own directions ~ doh!!)

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2053

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2054    

The middle side pieces will be 2-1/2″ shorter than the width of the door. This allows the front frame pieces to be set farther back so the shelf overlaps them which I think looks a lot nicer! Cut two spacers equal to the distance between the side frame pieces for the shelf position. This will allow the side pieces to be positioned at exactly the same distance without having to mark and measure everything. This is where I realized I screwed up ~ I wanted more space between the shelves and well, Gorilla Wood Glue is really strong so I couldn’t remove the side pieces I’d already installed… I also used a 1-1/2″ spacer at the front edge so that the distance was where I wanted it to be!

 how to build a bookcase using an old door 2055

Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers (I forgot to take a picture of this step, so drawings will have to do!). Fasten them to the front and back of the side spacers to join the sides together using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

how to build a bookcase using an old door_Stretchers

Cut the pieces for the shelves. They will all be the same size but the middle shelves will overlap the frames by 3/4″. The front edge of the bottom shelf will be flush with the edge of the frame. It looks nicer this way! Secure them to the frames using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

how to build a bookcase using an old door_ShelvesCut the piece for the top. It will overlap by 1″ at the sides and front. Secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

how to build a bookcase using an old door_Top

I created my own trim by routing both edges of a 1×6 board, then ripping the board on the table saw. The upper trim is approximately 7/8″ wide, and the lower trim is approximately 2-1/4″ wide. I cut mitered corners on the pieces, then attached them to the bookcase using 1-1/4″ brad nails. I cut the top to overlap the trim by 1/4″ on each side, as well as the front. The top was attached using 1-1/4″ brad nails.

 how to build a bookcase using an old door 2105

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2106

The color I chose is Strawberry Daquiri in Behr Premium Plus Ultra (which is now my new fave!!). I applied three coats. I cut a piece of 1/4″ lauan to fit inside the back then painted it also. Once everything was dry, I secured the back to the bookcase using brad nails.

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2107

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2108

I have a small plate to put over the hole for the door knob but I haven’t put it on yet. I may put half of the hinges back in the mortises. They are rusty and will look cool!!

She has already been sold! Woo hoo!! I’m so excited to have her go to a great new home!

The tutorial on how to build a bookcase using an old door is very easy to follow and I hope it inspires you to build your own. If you have any questions, contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

Sharing with My Repurposed LifeSavvy Southern Style, French Country CottageMy Romantic Home Show & Tell Friday, DIY Show OffFunky Junk Interiors, Cupcakes and Corndogs, Sawdust Girl’s Sawdust Throwdown, Beneath My Heart DIY Projects of April




Repairing a Damaged Dresser Top

Repair a Top to a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges

This post contains a couple of affiliate links. What this means is that if the link is clicked and a purchase is made, Designs by Studio C (DbSC) will receive a small commission. Thank you for supporting DbSC!

I’ve had this dresser for awhile and although it was covered with a heavy duty tarp (the kind that covers lumber when it is delivered to the home improvement store), the top veneer was heavily damaged. I’m almost ashamed to say that I built this dresser but it is what it is… Anyway, I had an idea to repair the top and add pieced trim to the edges in lieu of using edge banding, and I have to say this is probably my favorite project yet (next to this one)!

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges

I bought a package of scrap moulding at Hobby Lobby (actually, I bought several packages) because I thought it would add interest to the dresser with “pieced” or “patchwork” trim around the top. This worked out so well, I can’t wait to add pieced trim to another project!

I started by removing the damaged veneer from the top with a scraper. Then I decided to remove the top layer of the plywood since it was slightly damaged as well. This would also allow me to put a new piece of 1/4″ plywood on the top and keep the thickness at 3/4″ so the scrap moulding would fit along the edge properly. Matt used a prybar that he calls the “Big Wedgie” to remove the plywood layer and let me tell you, he is really good at picking wedgies, ha ha! It peeled away very easily.

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Removing Ply on Top

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Top with Ply Removed

I sanded the remaining plywood on the top as well as the edges to remove any adhesive from the edge banding. I cut a piece of 1/4″ plywood to fit the top (twice because “someone” can’t do simple math) then secured it in place with glue, clamps and 5/8″ staples which can be filled later. Ideally, contact cement would be better so that staples wouldn’t have to be used. If the 1/4″ piece is slightly bigger, a router with a straight bit can be used to cut the piece flush with the existing top. I got too excited and forgot to photograph this step…

Next, I added the strips of moulding along the front and sides. I centered the first piece, making marks on the top so that I had it in the correct position, then glued it in place with DAP® Rapid Fuse Wood Adhesive (this stuff is the BOMB!). I added strips of moulding on either side and when I got to the corners, I cut miters in the pieces with the miter saw to go around the corner then continued adding strips.

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Trim & Adhesive

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Centered Front Trim

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Fitting Side Trim

Once I had the front and side edges covered, I used a sander with 220 grit sandpaper to knock down any high spots where the trim pieces butted against each other. It made the transitions “flow” better…

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Mitered Corner

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Sides Sanded

I stained the top and the feet using a wood stain and sealer in one (that has since been discontinued – BOO!) in a dark brown color, then painted the body and drawer fronts of the dresser. I think the hardest part of this project was picking a paint color! I chose Deep Amazon by Clark+Kensington.

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Front View

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Angled Front View

Repair the Top of a Dresser and Add Pieced Trim to the Edges - Top View

The top of this dresser was severely damaged. I removed the veneer and the first layer of the plywood then replaced it with 1/4

I’m so glad I decided to repair the top of the dresser and add pieced trim to the edges – I love the way it came out! This is the perfect way to cover exposed edges of plywood and I plan on doing it to many future projects. Have any questions about how to do it? Leave a comment below!




Build a Mailbox Post

Step Up Your Curb Appeal with a New Mailbox Post!

Generally, we give our homes and our yards a lot of attention. The house gets a new coat of paint, a transformation to the front door, or a fresh look to our shutters. The yard will get mowed, clipped, raked, fertilized, and watered which turns it into a lush, green oasis. But do we ever think about the mailbox and the post that holds it? I’ll be the first to admit that although I’ve painted the mailbox, the post is left looking a bit unattractive. Matt asked me to create plans to build a gorgeous new post for the mailbox. Sure, a new mailbox post can be purchased then sunk into the ground but it is a few bucks cheaper to build your own and customize it to reflect the style of your home!

build a mailbox post copy

The receptacle for the Rebel house (the rental that Matt and I have been remodeling) had a mailbox and a post that was way worse than mine. I did not take a “before” photo, so I will describe it to you… The box was rusty and had a magnetic covering on it featuring a “deer” scene. The post was a bent pipe that was leaning. In fact, Matt yanked it out of the ground with his bare hands! It was in very sad shape! Once the post was built, set into the ground, and painted, it made the Rebel house look like a million bucks all the way to the curb!

Materials:

  • 1 – 4×4 post at 8′ plus a scrap piece at 14″
  • 2-1/2″ Weather Resistant pocket hole screws (“Blue Kote”)
  • 1 scrap piece of treated 1×6 the length of the mailbox
  • 2″ exterior screws
  • Exterior screws to secure the mailbox to the shelf
  • 1 treated post finial or cap
  • Wood glue rated for exterior use
  • Paintable silicone caulk
  • Post hole digger (if a new hole is required)
  • Bag of quick-setting concrete
  • Level
  • Exterior paint and brush
  • Exterior screws to mount the mailbox

Cut List:

  • 1 – 4×4 at 79″ – Post
  • 1 – 4×4 at 14″ – Post Arm
  • 1 – 4×4 at 16-1/16″ – Arm Support
  • 1 – 1×6 cut to the length of the underside of the mailbox – Post Arm Shelf

Build a mailbox post

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Start be reviewing the guidelines from the US Postal Service. They have a specific height for the box from the curb to the underside which makes it easier for the carrier to reach it. You can find the guidelines HERE.

Step Two

For this plan, the main post will extend up above the mailbox to show off a finial. Cut the main post at 79″ which includes the necessary 2′ that will be cemented into the ground.

 build mailbox post_Post

Step Three

Cut the piece for the post arm. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill two pocket holes on each side of one end of the piece. Secure to the post as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ weather resistant pocket hole screws.

 build mailbox post_Arm

Step Four

Cut the piece for the arm support. The angles are each cut at 45 degrees. Drill two pocket holes at each end on each side of the piece. Secure as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ weather resistant pocket hole screws.

 build mailbox post_Support

Step Five

Measure the underside of the mailbox and cut the 1×6 piece to fit. Allow enough room for the door to open and close easily. Mount the piece on the arm using glue and 2″ exterior screws. Allow a space at the back of the shelf (at the post)  for the mailbox to fit.

 build mailbox post_Shelf1

Step Six

Use a drill bit at the same diameter of the screw in the bottom of the finial. Drill a hole about 3/4″ deep in the center of the top of the post, then screw in the finial. Use the paintable silicone caulk to fill the pocket holes.

 build mailbox post_Finial

Step Seven

Refer to the US Postal Service guidelines for the required location for the box, and dig a new hole if necessary. The hole should be a little deeper than the required 2′, and (obviously) bigger than the post itself. Mix and add the concrete according to the directions on the bag of quick-setting concrete. Check the post with the level, then let the concrete set.

 build mailbox post Photo09241335  build mailbox post Photo09241339  build mailbox post Photo09241400

Step Eight

Once the concrete is dry (usually in 24 hours), paint the post using the exterior paint of your choice. We used Valspar Exterior paint in White with a semi-gloss finish.

 build mailbox post Photo09251446  build mailbox post Photo09251445

Step Nine

Position the mailbox on the shelf and secure using exterior screws on the sides into the shelf.

 build mailbox post Photo09251538

Now that you’ve used your skills to build a new mailbox post, your mailbox will be the nicest on the block! Add a few gorgeous plants or flowers around the base and – voila! – you have just turned the style up to 10!

 




A Beautiful Lamp with a Walnut Base

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood

I love making and refurbishing lamps.  I love walnut wood, too! I had a few scraps of PureBond walnut plywood left over from one of the projects I create for them and decided that I really, really needed a lamp with a walnut base. Constructing a lamp base from the DIY plans to build a lamp base with plywood are super-easy. The plywood is joined together using 45° bevels in the edges of the pieces. It sounds hard but really isn’t!

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Finished

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
  • 1 – 1/4″ lamp pipe at 15-1/2″
  • 1 – replacement lamp cord with plug
  • 3 – 1/4″ lamp nuts
  • 1 – washer to fit the pipe
  • 1 – candelabra socket cover at 4″
  • 2 – check rings to fit on the ends of the socket cover
  • Lamp socket
  • Lamp shade of your choice

Lumber:

  • 1 – 2’x 2′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1/2″ plywood at 5″ x 12″ – Base Sides
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 5″ square – Base Top
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 4″ square – Base Bottom

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

To Build the Lamp Base:

Cut all of the plywood pieces to size. I used the table saw with the blade set at 45° to cut the bevels in each of the long ends of the base sides, as well as the top edge of each piece. A router with a 45° chamfer bit can also be used.

Cut 45° bevels in all four edges of the top. I used a compound miter saw to do this but a router with a 45° chamfer bit can also be used.

 Sorry for the “shady” photos… It is that time of year where my work table in partially shaded!

Lay the side pieces on a flat surface side by side with the bevels facing down. Place at least two or three rows of masking tape across the pieces with the ends of the tape extending past each side piece.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Apply Tape

Carefully flip the pieces over and apply glue to each bevel. Fold the pieces on each other creating a box and secure the tape. Let the piece dry.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Apply Glue

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Glued

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Taped Assembly

Mark the center of the top and bottom pieces, and drill a hole in each piece large enough for the lamp pipe to fit through. (This is not shown in the photos.)

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Top & Bottom

Fit the beveled top into the top of the base, trimming as necessary. Spread glue on the bevels, then position the top, securing it in place with masking tape. Let the piece dry.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Top

Place the bottom piece inside the bottom positioning it approximately 1″ up from the bottom. Secure the piece in place with 1-1/4″ brad nails through the sides. I did not photograph this step but I’m sure you get the idea!

Drill a hole in the lower back side of the base below the bottom. This is so the cord will not interfere with the bottom of the lamp.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Cord Hole

Thoroughly sand the base and fill any holes or gaps with wood filler. Stain and seal the base as desired.

Decorate the base with a stencil and paint, if you’d like… I cut a stencil out of vinyl then painted it with metallic white paint. A woodburning tool could be used to create a design (before staining) or even the glue-resist technique can be used.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Stencil

To Install and Wire the Lamp:

Thread the washer and one of the nuts onto the lamp pipe, then thread the pipe through the hole in the bottom and through the hole in the top. Place a check ring (face down) over the pipe, then thread a second nut on the pipe. The check rings will “frame” the socket cover helping to keep it in place.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Pipe Bottom

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Check Ring

Cover the socket cover with scrapbooking paper or spray paint the piece. This is where I like to have fun and add a pop of color! Thread the cover on the pipe, then add the second check ring (face down) and the remaining nut.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Socket Cover

Thread the wiring through the hole in the lower edge of the base, then through the pipe and pull it out of the top. Thread the socket cap onto the pipe. Tie an underwriter’s knot (which helps keep the cord from being yanked out of the socket) and attach the wiring to the socket terminals. Wrap the wiring in the same direction as the screw will tighten. Install the socket’s cover.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Socket Wiring

Install the lamp shade of your choice! Gorgeous!

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Finished

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Night Left

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Night Right

What do you think? The lamp can be constructed out of any species of wood like oak, cherry, even cedar! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a lamp base with plywood? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




How to Make a Framed Cork Board with Wine Bottle Corks

I made this board for Mr. Awesome for our anniversary representing some of the bottles of wine we’d shared over the past year. I thought I had enough corks but apparently not… This is still a work in progress!

Most wine bottle corks are no longer “cork”, they are rubber which works even better for this project since they are easier to cut!

Materials:

  • Wine bottle corks
  • Box cutter with a new blade
  • Frame with a wood back
  • Stain or paint for the frame
  • Hot glue gun and glue sticks

Let’s get started!

An existing frame can be used or a new one can be built. I used a frame from a cabinet door that I never finished. I routed a rabbet on the back side and glued a piece of 1/4″ lauan in the opening. I stained the frame then sealed it with polyurethane. I added a sawtooth hanger on the top and on the side so it could be hung vertically or horizontally, then added an antique-looking knob in the corner.

   

 Cut the corks in half. The rubber corks are very easy to cut but be careful!

    

Start gluing the corks  in place. Some of the corks are longer than others and small pieces will have to be trimmed to fit in the spaces but this adds to the rustic look I was trying to achieve!

    

If I hadn’t used such a large frame, this would not continue to be a work in progress! So I guess it may be a few more months before it is finally finished… Maybe for our next anniversary??

Until next time,

Happy Creating!

Tip Junkie handmade projects

 




Thread a Pipe for a Lamp – DIY Tutorial

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp

It is no secret that I love to refurbish old light fixtures. Sometimes the parts I need for a lamp are not readily available in local home improvement stores and that means that I have to get creative. I wanted to reuse a piece of brass pipe in a light fixture. It had threads on one end but it really needed them on both ends. After a bit of research, I found an easy technique that I could do myself… Let me show you how to thread a pipe for a lamp!

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp

I knew that I could use a die to cut threads on a pipe but I wasn’t sure what size I would need for a lamp. As I was looking online for a die, I ran across a die that is exactly what I needed from Tx Lamp Parts. They are awesome – they carry everything for lamp building and repair, their shipping rates are reasonable, and they are my newest obsession. I found parts in their store that sent my heart all a-flutter!

Most threaded pipe used in lamp making is 1/8″ – 27 NPT. What that means is the pipe size is 1/8″, there are 27 threads per inch, and NPT stands for National Pipe Taper. A tapered thread pipe will create a tighter seal and is generally used for gas lines, water lines, and apparently on lamps. Now you know, ha ha! It is need-to-know information especially when it comes to buying pipe!

So, for the die, a special die stock handle will be used. The die fits in the middle and is held in place with a set screw.

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp-Die and Handle

The pipe is placed in a vise to hold it steady. Do not crank the vice too tight – the pipe will get smashed! The die and handle will be positioned on the end of the pipe, perpendicular to the pipe, with the die markings facing the pipe. Pipe cutting oil should be used to help the threads cut easier, and also to protect the cutting edge of the die. Start slow turning the handle and die clockwise, keeping the handle and die perfectly perpendicular to the pipe until the threads start to cut. Continue turning the handle and die until the desired length of threads is reached. If the pipe starts turning in the vise, add more oil to the die.

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp-Pipe in vice

To remove the handle and die, turn in a counter-clockwise manner. This will remove any burrs on the threads so that anything that screws onto it will fit without a problem!

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp-Die on Pipe

How to Thread Pipe for a Lamp-Back Side of Die

Super-easy, right? This tutorial will apply to any pipe needing threads, not just lamp pipe. This is the first time I’ve ever threaded a pipe and I couldn’t be more pleased with the results! Have you threaded pipe before? Have any questions about how to thread a pipe for a lamp? Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

Disclaimer:

I mentioned Tx Lamp Parts because they are awesome not because I was paid. 




How to Change the Blade on a Miter Saw

Time for a Saw Blade Change!

Every once in a while, it is time to change the blade in the miter saw(or any saw for that matter). Not only does it make nicer cuts with a new blade but it also helps keep things safer!

change blade saw SANY2568

I noticed I was having a hard time with cuts on my saw – the ends of the lumber were getting chewed up and it was just more difficult to get a nicer cut. The last time I changed the blade was when I first got the saw (about 5 or 6 years ago) so it was definitely due!

A new blade will run in the neighborhood of $20.00. It sounds like a lot to some but I like to purchase a quality blade that will last longer especially since I use my saw nearly every day. If you don’t use your saw on a regular basis, a cheaper blade will work just fine!

change blade saw SANY2559

Start by making sure the saw is unplugged. No-brainer, I know, but safety can always be an issue with some! It wouldn’t hurt to peruse the manual that came with the saw. There may be some special “need to know” information about the saw in there!

 change blade saw SANY2560

I removed the safety cover on the blade and set it aside.

 change blade saw SANY2561

There is also a blade lock mechanism that will keep the blade from turning freely while the arbor is removed to change the blade. I use a clamp to hold the blade lock in place so I can use both hands to loosen the arbor (the bolt that holds the saw blade in place).

 change blade saw SANY2566

The arbor in my saw was cranked on tight. I had to call in The Big Guns (i.e. my dad) to loosen the arbor for me. The arbor wasn’t cranked on really tight the last time I changed the blade – blade rotation and heat generated by the rotation can cause the arbor to tighten. We checked the manual and this is when we found out that the arbor was a “left hand thread”. That means that instead of  “righty-tighty, lefty-loosey”, it was exactly the opposite. So Dad wrote a little note on the saw for me…

 change blade saw SANY2562  change blade saw SANY2563

I also have a laser guide on the saw. It didn’t come with one and this is an after-market guide made by Irwin to fit most saws. I knew the batteries were dead and this would be the perfect opportunity to change them – but I was out of batteries… D’oh! I’ll just save that for another day! Once the arbor and the laser guide were removed, I removed the blade and cleaned a lot of the sawdust out of the housing.

I replaced the blade, the still-dead laser guide, and the arbor. Then I replaced the safety cover, plugged her in, and fired her up…

 change blade saw SANY2564  change blade saw SANY2565

Aaaaahhhh – smooth as silk!! Awesome!

 change blade saw SANY2567

Until next time,

Happy Creating!




Mustache Candleholder

How to Make a Wood Mustache Candleholder

My teenage daughter is obsessed with mustaches… Actually, I’ve seen them everywhere – on t-shirts, duct tape, even shoe laces! I have to admit that they are quite quirky! I was experimenting with the band saw one day and cut out a cute mustache for her. Since it was so much fun, I’ve become a little obsessed with them myself! So today, I’ll show you how to make make a wood mustache candleholder!

How to Make a Wood Mustache Candleholder 1

Materials:

  • Scrap 2×4 or 4×4 lumber
  • Cardstock (for pattern)
  • Paint & Sandpaper

Start by cutting a pattern out of the cardstock. I used my Silhouette Cameo to cut a perfectly sized mustache without too many curves!

How to Make a Wood Mustache Candleholder 2

Trace the pattern on the lumber.

How to Make a Wood Mustache Candleholder 3

Use a bandsaw or jigsaw to cut out the mustache.

How to Make a Wood Mustache Candleholder 4

How to Make a Wood Mustache Candleholder 5

Use a drill press fitted with a 1-7/8″ Forstner bit and drill a shallow hole to hold a tealight candle if the mustache has been cut out of a 4×4 post. Otherwise, just leave it as is.

How to Make a Wood Mustache Candleholder 6

Thoroughly sand – start with 100 grit, then 150 grit, then 220 grit. Paint or finish as desired, then sand the edges for a “worn” look.

How to Make a Wood Mustache Candleholder 7

What do you think? Are you a little obsessed too??

These candleholders make great gifts or as a piece to hang on the wall! Several can be made in just a few hours out of scrap wood… Have any questions on how to make a wood mustache candleholder? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

Sharing with Sawdust Girl’s Sawdust Throwdown




Drilling Pocket Holes in Mitered Edges

How to Drill Pocket Holes in Mitered Corners

I’ve been asked a few times about how to drill pocket holes in mitered corners. It is really easy and can be done in two ways – with two pocket holes on one board or one pocket hole in each board that joins together. There are a few things to keep in mind when drilling pocket holes in any board, especially when creating a frame or door that will have a rabbet routed in the center for glass or a panel.

how to drill pocket holes in mitered corners SANY2860 copy

Start by cutting the pieces for the frame you’d like to construct.

 how to drill pocket holes in mitered corners SANY2851

Determine where the holes will be drilled. If the center area of the frame will have a rabbet routed for glass or another type of panel, locate the pocket holes so that the screws will not interfere with the router bit. For narrower material (1x2s, for example), the pocket holes will be located closer together.

 how to drill pocket holes in mitered corners SANY2852

how to drill pocket holes in mitered corners SANY2853

 

how to drill pocket holes in mitered corners SANY2854

Clamp the pieces together. This is where the face clamps come in really handy – they help keep the faces of the pieces aligned!

 how to drill pocket holes in mitered corners SANY2857

Drive the screws.

 how to drill pocket holes in mitered corners SANY2858

Fill the holes as desired.

 how to drill pocket holes in mitered corners SANY2856

how to drill pocket holes in mitered corners SANY2859

Easy-peasy, right? Now that I’ve shared how to drill pocket holes in mitered corners, will you make frames with mitered corners? Let me know if you need help or have questions – cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Jewelry Box Frame with Cabot Stain

Using Cabot Premium Wood Finish on a Project

Thanks so much to the Cabot Stain Team for the stain, frame, plus kits!

If you are a regular reader of Designs by Studio C, you may remember a post I wrote about using a colored stain. I am crazy about Cabot’s Premium Wood Finish – a water-based interior stain that comes in a fabulous array of colors with the sealer built right in! When I contacted the folks at Cabot to gush about this awesome product (dorky, I know!), they were gracious enough to send a couple of samples of their Premium Wood Finish plus a frame to use with the stain. Let me show you how using Cabot Premium Wood Finish on a project can give fabulous results… Guaranteed, you will fall in love!

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Let me tell you a bit about Cabot Premium Wood Finish – it is durable, simple to use, and the color quality is amazing! It is available in half-pints or quarts in three different finishes – Satin, Semi-Gloss, or Gloss in seven ready-mix colors and 27 tintable colors!  I’ve used lots of different stains on my projects and Cabot, by far, is my favorite!

The kit contained two half-pints of Cabot Premium Wood Finish in Espresso (a gorgeous deep brown) and Mosaic Blue (a beautiful Indigo shade) and a cute, curvy frame. I decided to make a small box to hinge to the frame to use as a jewelry box.

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Materials:

  • Unfinished wood frame
  • 1/2″ plywood scraps or 1/2″ boards
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Decorative punched aluminum
  • Cabot Premium Wood Finish in your choice of color
  • Small brush
  • Sandpaper or sanding sponge
  • Wood glue
  • Brad nails
  • 5″ x 7″ piece of scrapbook paper
  • Sawtooth hanger or soda can tab and screw

Step One

Start by cutting the pieces for the box. The frame opening is for a 5″ x 7″ photo so I created the box to fit. I cut one piece for the back at 5″ x 7″, two pieces at 2″ x 5″ for the ends of the box, and two pieces at 2″ x 8″ for the sides of the box.

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Step Two

Assemble the box by using glue and brad nails, securing the 5″ ends to the 5″ edges of the back, then attach the 8″ sides.

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Step Three

Thoroughly sand the box and the frame, then apply the Cabot Premium Wood Finish. In my experience, three coats are necessary for the best color, lightly sanding between coats. Each coat will have to dry at least two to three hours. A word of warning – do not judge the stain by the first coat… The first coat always looks bad but subsequent coats are gorgeous!

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Step Four

After the frame and box are completely dry, cut the piece of scrapbook paper to fit inside the box, securing to the back with glue or Mod Podge.

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Step Five

Lay the frame face down on the workspace and position the box on the frame. Mark the position of the hinges. When using small hinges, I like to use an awl to mark the holes for the screws.

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Step Six

Cut the piece of decorative aluminum for the frame opening. The aluminum can be held in place with the prongs that hold the glass in or by using a few dots of silicone to hold the aluminum to the frame.

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Step Seven

Add a hanger to the back – I like using soda can tabs with screws!

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Let me share a few of the other projects I’ve created then finished with Cabot Premium Wood Finish

This is an oak dresser I built, then stained in Gulfstream.

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This is a mahogany cabinet I built, then stained in Ruddy (sorry for the photo quality – it was for a different project!).

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This is a cherry demilune table I built, then stained using Fruit Punch.

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Gorgeous isn’t it?

So what do you think? I really am a huge fan of Cabot Premium Wood Finish – it is a great product! Have any questions about using Cabot Premium Wood Finish? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!