A Fabulous Easy to Build Chair for the Outdoors

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair

This easy to build chair can actually be used indoors or outdoors. The DIY plans to build an X Leg Chair feature side frames with an X detail, a slatted seat, and a slatted back. This chair would be fabulous with cedar as the seat and back, with treated pine framing that can be painted once the lumber dries. Several of these chairs can be built in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws for outdoor use
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws for outdoor use
  • 1-1/4″ screws for outdoor use
  • 3″ screws for outdoor use
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 4 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 5 – 2×2 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 16-3/8″ – X Detail
  • 2 – 2×2 at 34-1/4″ – X Detail
  • 4 – 2×2 at 23-1/2″ – Side Framing
  • 4 – 2×2 at 29″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 22″ – Bracing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 22″ – Seat Framing
  • 5 – 1×2 at 23-1/2″ – Seat Framing
  • 2 – 1×2 at 20-3/4″ – Side Back
  • 13 – 1×3 at 20-1/2″ – Back Slats & Seat Slats

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the X detail. Cut the angles at 44° as indicated in the drawing. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble the X using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the side framing. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the side framing using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Insert the X detail securing in place using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_X 1

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_X 2

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Side Framing

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the bracing. The bracing will be secured between the two side frames at the top edge of the back and at the center of each X. The pieces can be secured using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws or countersunk 3″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Bracing

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the seat frame. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 pieces. Secure the 1×2 side pieces on end to the 2×2 pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the 1×2 support pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The side supports can be further secured to the side of the seat frame using countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. The bottom face of the supports will be flush with the bottom edge of the frame.

Secure the seat frame to the side frames using countersunk 3″ screws through the front and back legs into the seat frame. The seat frame will rest directly on the bracing piece between the X detail.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Seat Frame 1

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Seat Frame 2

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the side back. Cut a 5° angle in the lower edge of each piece and drill pocket holes in this edge treating the pieces as a left and a right. Secure the side back pieces to the seat frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The pieces will be positioned 2-1/2″ from the back edge of the seat frame and will rest on the upper bracing piece.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Back Side 1

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Back Side 2

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the back slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the slats to the side back pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws spacing the pieces 3/4″ apart. The front face of the slats will be flush with the front face of the side back pieces. The top edge of the top slat will be flush with the top edges of the side back.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Back Slats

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. The seat slats will be spaced 3/4″ apart and will be secured to the supports in the seat frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Seat Slats

Finish as desired.

The entire chair can also be built from plain untreated pine as long as it is used indoors or on a covered porch area. have any questions about the DIY plans to build an X Leg Chair? Leave a comment below!




Plans for a Wood Low-Slung Chair Perfect for Relaxing

Build a Low-Slung Chair

With Fall just around the corner, I have created the perfect plans to build a low slung chair for relaxing by the fire pit, outdoor movie night, or even as seating for a game room! If you are nervous about attempting to build a chair, don’t be… Chairs are one of the easiest pieces of furniture to construct and once you build your first one, you will be addicted – like me! The chair is designed to be constructed of straight off-the-shelf lumber. If it is going to be used and left outdoors, make sure the lumber is either chemically treated, sealed with spar varnish, or painted with exterior paint. This way the chair will last for many relaxing moments by the fire! A basic knowledge of sewing a straight line is helpful to construct pillows for the seat and back. In fact, using outdoor fabric for the covers, and stuffing made using recycled plastic bags would be the perfect cushioning! (See my post How to Make Outdoor Cushions Using Recycled Plastic Bags.) If you are a beginner, don’t be afraid to jump right in! I can always be contacted at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com and will be happy to walk you through the build! Let me know – I’m here to help!

build low slung chair_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies

Lumber:

  • 2 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 4×4 post at 8’**

Cut List:

  • 2 – 4×4 posts at 10″ – Front Legs
  • 2 – 4×4 posts at 10-3/4″ – Lower Back Legs
  • 2 – 4×4 at 15″ – Upper Back Legs
  • 3 – 2×4 at 24″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×4 at 22″ – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 26-1/2″ x 30″ – Seat
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 24″ – Back

 build low slung chair

** 2 – 2x4s glued and screwed together face to face will also work. If using this method, the side stretchers will have to be lengthened by 1″.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the front legs and stretcher. Set the pocket hole jig for drilling into 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes at each end of the stretcher. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Position the stretcher so that the front face is set back 1/4″ from the front face of the legs.

wood chair plans - low slung_Front Frame

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower back legs. Cut a 5 degree angle in the lower edge of the upper back leg. Because the post is wider than a regular pocket hole jig allows for, drill pocket holes in each side of the angled portion of the legs (see the drawings). This will make the back extra sturdy so it doesn’t come apart when it is leaned on! Secure the upper and lower legs to each other using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

wood chair plans - low slung_Back Legs 1

wood chair plans - low slung_Back Legs 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. 

wood chair plans - low slung_Back Frame

Step Four

Cut the pieces  for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Position the stretchers so that the outside face is 1/4″ back from the outside face of the legs.

wood chair plans - low slung_Side Stretchers

Step Five

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw or a bandsaw, then attach to the seat frame using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. 

wood chair plans - low slung_Seat 1

wood chair plans - low slung_Seat 2

Step Six

Cut the piece for the back. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Insert the piece into the upper back on top of the seat then secure using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The front face of the back will be flush with the front face of the back legs. 

wood chair plans - low slung_Chair Back

Finish as desired. Sew a couple of pillows for the seat and back, and voila!! Awesome seating! Build one or build several… These plans to build a low-slung chair are just the ticket for indoor or outdoor use! I plan on building a few for myself! Any questions? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Crate Bench

Build a Fantastic Seat for the Porch or Patio with the Crate Bench Plans

This is a great project for those who are new to woodworking or who just want a quick weekend project. The Crate Bench Plans have a sturdy inner frame with slats on the outside to mimic a crate. The bench can also accommodate a 17″ x 44″ cushion on the seat. Check out my basic box cushion how-to for a quick tutorial on making the cushion!

 crate bench plans_Copy

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 5 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 15-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 12-1/2″ – Base Frame & Seat Supports
  • 2 – 2×2 at 39-1/2″ – Base Frame
  • 6 – 1×3 at 15-1/2″ – Side Slats
  • 6 – 1×3 at 44″ – Front & Back Slats
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 44″ – Seat

 crate bench plans

Notes:

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the base frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the frame pieces will be flush with the top of each leg.

 crate bench plans_Seat Frame

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front and back frame pieces as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

 crate bench plans_Seat Supports

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Position them as shown in the drawing securing the slats using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

 crate bench plans_Side Slats

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the front and back slats. Overlap the edges of the side slats with the front and back slats lining them up. Secure using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

 crate bench plans_FB Slats

Step Five

Cut the piece for the seat. Secure to the frame and supports using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

 crate bench plans_Seat

Finish as desired.

The Crate Bench plans would be awesome constructed out of rustic pallet boards, also. The plywood on the seat can be replaced with slats as an alternative. Have questions? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

Disclaimer:

This post contains links to a site of which I am an affiliate. What that means is if the link is clicked and a purchase is made, I will get a commission of that sale. Rest assured I would only direct my readers to sites I shop at myself!




A Challenging Bench to Build

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench

Like a challenge? Me, too! The DIY plans to build a Curved Seat Bench really shouldn’t be too difficult but it will put your skills to the test! The bench features a curved seat and back, and will fit well around a round table. The seat can be made using plywood or 1x material in planks. In all honesty, this bench can probably be built in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Copy

I have included a printable template for the back pieces. This is new for me, so please bear with me while I get all of the kinks worked out! The printed sheets have registration marks on them so that the pages can be matched up and taped together with ease. The back pieces can be cut from 1x for 3/4″ wide pieces or 2x stock for 1-1/2″ wide pieces (whichever you feel comfortable with as the back). If using a bandsaw, the pieces can be stacked so that multiples are cut out at once, and 4 pieces should fit on one 1×8 or 2×8 at 3′ long.

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Copy 2

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 2″ screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails (or 1-1/2″ screws to secure the seat)
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×8 at 8′  or 1 – 2×8 at 6′ (for the back pieces)
  • 4 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood or 5 – 1×6 at 6′ (for the seat)

Cut List:

  • 3 – 2×4 at 17-1/4″ – Front Legs
  • 3 – 2×4 at 13″ – Side Stretchers
  • 3 – 2×4 at 32″ – Back Legs
  • 4 – 2×4 at 23-5/8″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 3 – 1×8 at 36″ – Back OR
  • 2 – 2×8 at 36″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 22″ x 51″ – Seat OR
  • 5 – 1×6 at 51″ – Seat

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the front legs, the back legs, and the side stretchers. Cut an angle in each side of each leg as shown using a jigsaw, a bandsaw, or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Secure the stretchers to the front and back legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. On at least two of the assemblies, the pocket holes will face opposite of the remaining assembly so that no pocket holes will be visible on either side.

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Leg Assemblies

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers. A 14° angle will be cut on one side (where the stretchers will be attached to the center leg) and a 15° angle will be cut on the other side (where the stretchers will attach to the outer legs). Stand the leg assemblies on a flat surface, then position the stretchers as they will be secured to the legs. Mark the position of the pocket holes, staggering them so they won’t interfere with the adjoining piece, especially at the center leg. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

The back stretchers will be flush with the ends of the side stretchers. The front stretchers will be positioned 1-1/2″ back from the front edge of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Center Leg Position

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Stretchers 1

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Stretchers 2

Step Three

Print the template for the back pieces. Line up the registration marks and tape the sheets together. It may be easier to transfer the template to a scrap piece of 1/4″ plywood, using the plywood piece as the template. There should be enough room to trace four back pieces on a 1×8 or 2×8 piece of material.

Cut out the back pieces using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. If using a bandsaw, the pieces can be stacked (secured by screws) then cut. The holes made by the screws can later be filled.

Pre-drill the holes in the ends of the back pieces to prevent splitting before securing the pieces to the back legs. Secure the back pieces to the legs using glue and 2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Back 1

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Back 2

Step Four

Cut the piece for the seat. If using planks for the seat, secure the planks to each other by drilling a series of pocket holes along one long edge of each piece and securing with 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Draw the curves on the seat material according to the drawing, maintaining the 2″ at the sides (for the legs and 1/2″ overhang).

Secure the seat to the frame using glue and 1-1/2″ screws or 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Seat 1

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Seat 2

Finish as desired.

If anyone tackles this bench before I get a chance to do so, please let me know how the templates work out. I am planning on including templates for future plans. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Curved Seat Bench? Leave a comment below!




New Plans for a Beautiful Dining Chair Bench

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench

This post contains affiliate links to the materials used to build this project. What that means is that if the link is clicked and a purchase is made, I will receive a small commission. Thank you for supporting DbSC!

The very first dining chair bench I designed plans for and built was as a gift for my mom. She still loves it (and still won’t let anyone sit on it!) and I am super-proud of it! The DIY furniture plans to build a Long Chair Bench are basically the same as the original chair bench but in this case, all of the chairs match. This is the perfect plan for those new to furniture building – it is really super-easy!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Copy

Materials:

Tools Needed:

Lumber:

  • 4 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×6 at 4′
  • 3 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 6 – 2×4 at 42-3/4″ – Back Legs
  • 3 – 1×6 at 15″ – Upper Back
  • 12 – 1×3 at 15″ – Back Pieces and Stretchers
  • 6 – 2×2 at 17-1/4″ – Front Legs
  • 6 – 1×3 at 15″ – Side Stretchers
  • 3 – 1×3 at 15″ –  Seat Supports
  • 4 – 1×3 at 3″ – Spacers
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 60″ – Seat

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes about the project:

Edge banding, if used, will be applied to the exposed edges of the seat prior to securing it to the seat frames.

When cutting multiple legs for chairs, I draw the dimensions for the legs on one board, then stack the boards securing them together. I used a bandsaw to cut along the lines drawn on the board cutting the legs at the same time.

Step One

Draw the lines for the back legs on the 2×4 as shown in the drawing. Use a jigsaw or bandsaw to cut the legs out. Stack the legs together holding the stack with a clamp, then thoroughly sand.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the back and the stretchers. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the pieces to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front faces of the back pieces will be flush with the front faces of the legs, while the back face of the stretcher will be flush with the front face of the legs. (There should be three stretchers left over for the front.)

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Back Rest & Stretcher

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front legs. Secure the remaining stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the stretchers will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Front Legs & Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the front and back legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the stretchers will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Side Stretchers

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the front and back stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Seat Support

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the spacers and drill pocket holes in one end only of each piece. One side of the spacers will be secured to the legs using pocket hole screws, and the other side will be secured to the legs using the mending plates and screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Spacers

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the seat. If using edge banding, apply it to all four edges prior to cutting the notches. Mark the position for the notches and cut them out with a jigsaw.

Position the seat on the seat frames securing in place using glue and 2″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Seat 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Seat 2

Easy to build chair frames are aligned with a long seat on top for a fabulous Long Chair Bench. This plan is suitable for all skill levels!

Finish the bench as desired.

The seat for this bench can also be cut from planks, and can be stenciled, stained or painted. Wood appliques can also be added to the upper back pieces for a decorative look. Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Long Chair Bench? Leave a comment below!




An Easy Plan to Build a Chair for the Outdoors

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair

As the weather gets warmer (and I work on more projects outside my own home), I am looking forward to relaxing outside on fabulous furniture I’ve built myself! The DIY furniture plans to build a Modern Outdoor Chair are really simple… The chair features clean lines and is also sized for an off-the-shelf 24″ x 24″ seat cushion (or you can make your own). The plan for this chair is perfect for those new to woodworking and furniture building, and several can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair - Copy

Materials:

  • 3″ screws rated for outdoor use (I love using star-drive exterior screws!)
  • 2″ brad nails rated for outdoor use
  • Wood glue rated for outdoor use
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools Needed:

  • Miter saw or Circular saw
  • Drill (with a bit appropriate for the head of the screws used)
  • Countersink bit
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
  • Sander

Lumber:

If the chair is being used outdoors, pressure treated lumber is recommended

  • Scrap of 1×2 at 24″
  • 4 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 4 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×3 at 6′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 23″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 25-1/2″ – Side Frame
  • 2 – 2×2 at 22-1/2″ – Side Frame
  • 1 – 2×2 at 24″ – Upper Back
  • 2 – 2×3 at 24″ – Upper Back
  • 2 – 1×3 at 24″ – Back & Front Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×2 at 24″ – Side Seat Supports
  • 1 – 1×2 at 24″ – Center Seat Support
  • 8 – 1×3 at 24″ – Seat Slats
  • 1 – 1×3 (ripped to 1-5/8″ wide) at 24″ – Rear Seat Slat

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes about the project:

The entire chair is constructed using countersunk screws. The holes can be filled with plugs (that can be made using a plug cutter on a scrap of wood matching the chair). The chair can also be constructed using pocket hole screws.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side framing. Mark the position of the screws at each end of the longer 2×2 pieces (the arms) and pre-drill the holes. Secure the longer 2x2s to the top of the legs using glue and countersunk 3″ screws.

Mark the position for the lower 2x2s on the legs and pre-drill the holes. Secure the lower side stretcher to the legs using glue and countersunk 3″ screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair - Side Frame

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the upper back. Mark the position of the 2×2 upper back piece and pre-drill the holes in each side frame (trying to avoid the screw from the upper side piece into the leg!). Secure the upper back piece using glue and countersunk 3″ screws.

Secure the 2×3 pieces in the same manner, spacing them approximately 1-1/2″ apart. Use two screws in each end of the wider pieces!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair - Upper Back

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the 1×3 back and front stretchers. The outside faces of the stretchers will be flush with the outside faces of the legs. Mark the position on the legs for each piece and pre-drill the holes for the screws (two for each end of each piece). Secure the stretchers using glue and countersunk 3″ screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair - Rear Stretcher

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair - Front Stretcher

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the side seat supports. These supports will fit between the front and back stretchers. The bottom of the seat supports will be flush with the bottom of the stretchers making them approximately 3/4″ lower than the stretchers. Pre-drill the holes (the screws do not have to be countersunk) and secure the supports to the legs using glue and 3″ screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair - Side Seat Support

Step Five

Cut the piece for the center seat support. Secure the center seat support to the front and back stretchers using glue and countersunk 3″ screws. The bottom edge of the center seat support will be flush with the bottom edge of the stretchers.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair - Center Seat Support

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Note that the rear slat is narrower than the other slats. This will be hidden by the seat cushion anyway! Secure the slats to the side and center supports using glue and 2″ brad nails spacing them approximately 1/4″ apart.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair - Seat Slats

Finish the chair as desired.

I’ve recently discovered solid exterior stain and it would be awesome for a project like this! Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Modern Outdoor Chair? Leave a comment below – I would be happy to answer!




A Bench Perfect for an Entryway or Mudroom

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee

This settee is the perfect option for storage in an entryway or mudroom. The DIY plans to build a Storage Settee features a high back with coat hooks, as well as three drawers under the seat. The plans for the settee are quick and easy, as well as fairly inexpensive.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ screws
  • 3″ screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 3 sets of 18″ drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Coat hooks
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 7 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×4 at 6′
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×4 at 60″ – Back Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 18-1/2″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/4″ – x 18-1/2″ – Side Panels
  • 4 – 2×2 at 51″ – Back Framing & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/4″ -x 51″ – Lower Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 51″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 2×2 at 10-1/4″ – Front Dividers
  • 2 – 2×2 at 18-1/2″ – Drawer Slide Spacers
  • 2 – 2×2 at 18-1/2″ – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/4″ x 51 – Seat Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18-1/2″ – Seat Side Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 51″ – Seat Front & Back Trim
  • 2 – 2×2 at 20-1/2″ – Arms
  • 2 – 2×2 at 36″ – Upper Back Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 51″ – Upper Back Framing
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 36″ – Upper Back Panels
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 9″ x 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 9″ x 15″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 15-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the 2×4 pieces for the back legs to length. Draw the legs on the 2×4 pieces, then cut out using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Back Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the side framing and the front legs. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces as well as one end of the front legs. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The pocket holes in the front legs will face the back legs. Remember – there will be a right side and a left side!

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Position the panels inside the framing securing with glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the side framing.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Sides

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and the back framing. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers and the framing pieces. Secure the back framing to the back legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the back panel. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Position the panel inside the framing securing with glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the back framing.

Secure the front stretchers to the front legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Back

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Front Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the bottom panel to the lower framing and lower front stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Bottom

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the front dividers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the dividers. Secure the dividers to the front stretchers using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. A close-quarter drill or right angle attachment may be needed for the tight space.

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide spacers and drill pocket holes in one end only. Secure the spacers to the front dividers using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Secure the back of the spacers using countersunk 1-1/2″ screws through the back panel.

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the upper front stretcher and the upper back framing using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Front Dividers

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Drawer Slide Supports

 

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Seat Supports

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the seat panel and the seat trim. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure the trim as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Note that the side trim pieces are shorter than the seat panel. This will allow the front of the seat to overhang the frame.

Position the seat as shown securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the seat.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Seat 1

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Seat 2

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the arms. Cut a 3° angle in on end of each piece. This edge will be secured to the back legs using glue and countersunk 3″ screws through the back leg into the back of the arm. Secure the arm to the front legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. A close-quarter drill or right angle attachment may be needed for the tight space.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Arms 1

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Arms 2

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the back framing. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing to the back legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the upper back panels. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the panels to the back framing as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The panels are positioned 1/4″ back from the front face of the back framing.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Back Framing

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Back Panels

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the front legs and dividers. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Drawer FB

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Drawer Fronts

Finish as desired. Install the coat hooks on the back panels. The hooks are completely optional!

The settee would look great in any room, in any finish! the hooks and drawers make the settee the perfect place to store coats, backpacks, and shoes! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Storage Settee? Leave a comment below!




A Bench to Match the Holly Dining Table and Chair

DIY Plans to Build a Holly Dining Bench

Since I’ve previously posted plans for the Holly Dining Table and Dining Chair, I figured a matching bench would be in order! The DIY plans to build a Holly Dining Bench match the other pieces perfectly, and is another plan well suited for those new to woodworking! The bench features the inset aprons and is such an easy build, it can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Holly Dining Bench_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 6 – 3/4″ square dowel at 4′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 17-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 1×2 at 15″ – End Aprons
  • 4 – 3/4″ square dowels at 15″ – End Aprons
  • 4 – 1×2 at 46-1/2″ – Side Aprons
  • 4 – 3/4″ square dowels at 46-1/2″ – Side Aprons
  • 4 – 1×2 at 10-1/2″ – Angled Seat Supports
  • 1 – 1×2 at 15″ – Straight Seat Support
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 48″ – Seat

DIY Plans to Build a Holly Dining Bench

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and the end aprons. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes at each end of the 1×2 apron pieces. Place a 3/4″ square dowel between two 1×2 pieces (with the pocket holes facing out) securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The back edges of all three pieces will be flush.

Secure the end apron assemblies to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Holly Dining Bench_Ends

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the side aprons and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 pieces. Place a 3/4″ square dowel between two 1×2 pieces (with the pocket holes facing out) securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The back edges of all three pieces will be flush.

Secure the end apron assemblies to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Holly Dining Bench_Sides 1

DIY Plans to Build a Holly Dining Bench_Sides 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the angled seat supports to length then cut 45° miters in each end. Drill pocket holes in the mitered edges then secure the supports to the aprons using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the straight support and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the support to the center of each side apron assembly using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Holly Dining Bench_Seat Supports

Step Four

Cut the piece for the seat. Apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood. Secure the seat to the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the seat into the frame and supports.

DIY Plans to Build a Holly Dining Bench_Seat

Finish as desired.

The bench will be a fabulous addition to the ensemble – one on each side of the table would look fabulous! The bench is not just for the dining room… It would look equally fabulous in any area of the home! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Holly Dining Bench? Leave a comment below!




A Beautifully Rustic & Modern Upholstered Bench

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Upholstered Bench with Tapered Legs

Sometimes, all it takes is a piece of fabric to inspire a furniture project! Such is the case with this bench… The DIY furniture plans to build an upholstered bench with tapered legs were inspired by a remnant of vinyl in a matte gold color! I used a dark stain on the pine frame, leaving it on for a short time in order to give it a lighter and more rustic look. The pieces for the frame itself started as a cracked 2x12x8′ from the cull bin at the home improvement store (I paid $4 for it!). The bench is an easy weekend project and is suitable for those new to furniture building!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Upholstered Bench with Tapered Legs - Fabric

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Upholstered Bench with Tapered Legs - Finished

Supplies:

  • 2″ screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
  • Fabric of choice
  • 2″ foam
  • Upholstery batting
  • Decorative trim

Tools Needed:

  • Miter saw or Circular saw
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Sander
  • Pneumatic stapler
  • Compressor
  • Glue gun & glue sticks

Lumber:

  • 1 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 17-1/4″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×3 at 15″ – Frame
  • 2 – 2×3 at 33″ – Frame
  • 4 – 2×2 at 8″ – Corner Braces
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 36″ – Seat Base

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Upholstered Bench with Tapered Legs

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes about the project:

The tapers in the legs are completely optional!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. If a taper in the legs is desired, use a tapering jig and a table saw to cut the tapers.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Upholstered Bench with Tapered Legs - Legs

Step Two

Cut the 2×3 pieces for the frame. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Upholstered Bench with Tapered Legs - Frame

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the braces and cut a 45° miter in each end. Secure the braces to the framing using glue and 2-1/2″ screws. The top face of the braces will be flush with the top face of the frame.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Upholstered Bench with Tapered Legs - Braces

Step Four

Cut the piece for the seat. Secure the seat to the frame, with the edges flush, using 2″ screws through the braces into the underside of the seat.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Upholstered Bench with Tapered Legs - Seat

Finish the frame as desired.

To upholster the seat, lay the frame seat side down on the foam and trace around it. Cut the foam 1/2″ to 1″ larger than the seat using scissors or a bread knife.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Upholstered Bench with Tapered Legs - Foam

Cut a piece of batting to fit over the foam, and cut a piece of fabric for the seat. The batting and fabric both should be about 3″ larger than the foam on all sides.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Upholstered Bench with Tapered Legs - Batting

Pull the fabric and batting over the sides of the foam stapling in place along the edge of the plywood seat. Use enough staples to hold the fabric and batting in place, spacing them about 2″ to 3″ apart. The corners can be pleated and stapled in place after trimming away the foam.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Upholstered Bench with Tapered Legs - Trimming Foam

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Upholstered Bench with Tapered Legs - Pleated Corners

Once all sides have been secured, fill in the spaces between the staples with more staples (ha ha!). Trim away the excess fabric and batting with a razor blade or scissors cutting close to the bottom edge of the plywood seat base.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Upholstered Bench with Tapered Legs - Staples

Using the glue gun, secure the decorative trim over the staples along the bottom edge of the plywood seat. I was originally going to use gold circles that looked like upholstery nail heads but I didn’t do a very good job of stapling and the trim didn’t cover them. I opted for some braided trim from my sewing stash.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Upholstered Bench with Tapered Legs - Braided Trim

This bench would be a great addition to a mud room or at the foot of a bed.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Upholstered Bench with Tapered Legs - Completed

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Upholstered Bench with Tapered Legs - Completed with Desk

Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build an upholstered bench with tapered legs (or a better way to do the corners)? Leave a comment below!




Build a Vintage Wood Slat Bench

Create a Stunning Piece of Seating using the Plans to Build a Vintage Wood Slat Bench

This bench is one of those pieces that can be constructed in a day. So simple, right? It would be the perfect accent to a deck, porch, mud room, or even at a dining room table! The plans to build a Vintage Wood Slat bench are simple to build and would be a very inexpensive project!

plans build Vintage Wood Slat bench-Copy

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 6 – 2×3 at 8′
  • 7 – 2×4 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 3 – 2×4 at 36″ – Back Legs
  • 3 – 2×4 at 16-1/2″ – Front Legs
  • 3 – 2×4 at 11-1/2″ – Leg Stretcher
  • 2 – 2×4 at 37-1/4″ – Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 2×4 at 81″ – Front Stretcher
  • 2 – 2×4 at 15″ – Seat Supports
  • 3 – 2×3 at 81″ – Seat Slats
  • 2 – 2×4 at 81″ – Seat Slats
  • 3 – 2×3 at 81″ – Back Slats

plans build Vintage Wood Slat bench

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the back legs. Cut the angle for the upper back using a jigsaw or a tapering jig on the table saw.

plans build Vintage Wood Slat bench-Back Leg

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the front legs and the leg stretchers. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Secure the stretchers to the front legs and back legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

plans build Vintage Wood Slat bench-Leg Assembly

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the stretchers will be flush with the inside face of the back legs.

plans build Vintage Wood Slat bench-Back Stretcher

Step Four

Cut the piece for the front stretcher. To make the arc in the lower ends, use a soup can or a compass to draw the arc, then cut with a jigsaw. Secure the stretcher to the front legs using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws. The front will overlap the sides by 1″.

plans build Vintage Wood Slat bench-Front Stretcher

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front and back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

plans build Vintage Wood Slat bench-Seat Supports

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Cut the notches in one of the 2×4 slats as shown in the drawing. This way, the back slat will fit around the legs. The center three slats are 2×3, and the front slat is a 2×4. Space the slats 7/8″ apart, then secure in place using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws.

plans build Vintage Wood Slat bench-Seat Slats 1

plans build Vintage Wood Slat bench-Seat Slats 2Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the back slats. The rounded edges are optional. Secure the back slats to the upper portion of the back legs (along the angle) using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws. The back slats will be spaced approximately 2″ apart.

plans build Vintage Wood Slat bench-Back Slats

Finish as desired.

The bench would look awesome with a weathered grey finish, then sealed with a coat of spar urethane! I think I might add the plans to build a Vintage Wood Slat bench to my “to build” list! have any questions about the plans? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!