Build the Haiku Cabinet

DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet with Fantastic Door Detail!

This roomy little cabinet has a very interesting twist… Not only does it feature three doors with a shelf inside each cubby, but it has very interestingly pieced doors with glass behind the frame! The DIY plans to build a Haiku cabinet only look complicated but are very easy and should be quite the inexpensive build!
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 9 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 25-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 1×2 at 17″ – Side Frames
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 19-3/4″ – Side Panels
  • 3 – 1×2 at 57″ – Back Frame & Lower Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-3/4″ x 57″ – Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 57″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 20-1/2″ – Dividers
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-1/2″ x 18-1/2″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 1×3 at 57″ – Upper Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/2″ x 60-1/2″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×2 at 20-1/2″ – Top Trim Sides
  • 2 – 1×2 at 62″ – Top Trim Front & Back
  • 6 – 1×2 at 15-1/4″ – Door Frame
  • 6 – 1×2 at 17-3/4″ – Door Frame
  • 6 – 1×2 at 12-1/4″ – Door Panel
  • 6 – 1×2 at 11-3/4″ – Door Panel
  • 6 – 1×2 at 6-1/4″ – Door Panel
  • 6 – 1×2 at 5-3/4″ – Door Panel
  • 2 – 1/4″ glass or Plexiglas at 15-3/4″ x 16-1/4″ – Door Glass

DIY Plans to Build the Haiku CabinetClick on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly!

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces and all four edges of the panels. Secure the frame pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face away from the center panel – this way they won’t have to be filled!

Insert the panel in the frame opening and secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the legs and frame pieces.
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the back frame and panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces and all four edges of the panel. Secure the frame pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, again orienting the pocket holes to face away from the panel.
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Back

Step Three

Cut the piece for the lower front stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, orienting the piece so the pocket holes face down.
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Lower Front Stretcher

Step Four

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the lower stretcher and frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the bottom will be flush with the top face of the front stretcher.

DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-BottomStep Five

Cut the pieces for the dividers, cutting the notch in the top with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the back and bottom edges, then secure to the back and bottom of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Dividers 1DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Dividers 2

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge. Secure to the sides and dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Shelves

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the upper front stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Add a few 1-1/4″ brad nails through the stretcher into the dividers.
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Front Stretcher

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang all sides of the cabinet by 1/4″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the top trim. Install the side trim pieces first, securing them with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails, then secure the front and back. The top edge of the trim pieces will be flush with the top face of the top.
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Top

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the door frames. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces then assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the center panels and drill one pocket hole in each end of each piece. The pieces will connect to each other as well as the outer frame with 1-1/2″ spacing. Secure one piece to the frame (it doesn’t matter which one you start with) using glue and a 1-1/4″ pocket hole screw, the build on that by securing the others as shown.
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Doors FrameDIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Doors Panel 1DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Doors Panel 2

Step Ten

Cut the pieces of glass or Plexiglas. Secure to the back of each door frame (with at least 1/2″ overlap) using mirror clips or turn buttons.

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Doors GlassDIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-DoorsFinish as desired!

This cabinet would make a great media stand or even a bar cabinet! The glass in the doors could be replaced with 1/4″ plywood panels or decorative punched aluminum. have any questions about the DIY plans to build the Haiku cabinet? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Beautiful Ames Chest

Plans to Build the Ames Chest

This is such a nice chest and if my home wasn’t already bursting at the seams from furniture overload, I would definitely build it! I love these plans to build the Ames Chest – especially the different size drawers and the way they are staggered. It would be such a nice compliment to any decor!

plans to build the ames chest_copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • Six sets of 12” drawer slides
  • Six drawer knobs or handles
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • Two – 2×2 at 6’
  • One – 2×3 at 6’
  • Two – 1×2 at 6’
  • Three – 1×6 at 8’
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood

Cut List:

  • Four  – 2×2 at 31-1/4” – Legs
  • Two – 1×2 at 13-1/2” – Side Frames
  • Two – 2×3 at 13-1/2” – Side Frames
  • Two – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Side Panels
  • Four – 1×2 at 23-1/2” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
  • Two – 2×3 at 23-1/2” – Back Frame & Front Stretcher
  • One – 3/4” plywood at 22-1/2” x 23-1/2” – Back Panel
  • Three – ¾” plywood at 7” x 14” – Dividers
  • One – ¾” plywood at 16” x 27-1/2” – Top
  • Six – 1×6 at 6” – Small Drawer Boxes
  • Six – 1×6 at 14-3/4” – Large Drawer Boxes
  • Twelve – 1×6 at 10-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • Three – 1/4″ plywood at 6″ x 12″ – Small Drawer Bottoms
  • Three – 1/4″ plywood at 12″ x 14-3/4″ – Large Drawer Bottoms
  • Three – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 6-3/4” – Small Drawer Fronts
  • Three – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 15-1/2” – Large Drawer Fronts

plans to build the ames chest

Notes:

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

1. Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Drill pocket holes around the side panels as shown as well as in each end of the frame pieces. Attach the panels to the frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel should be flush with the back of the frame pieces.

Attach the panel and frame assembly to the legs using glue and pocket hole screws. Use 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the panels and upper frame pieces, and 2″ pocket hole screws through the lower frame piece.

plans to build the Ames Chest 2

 

2. Cut the pieces for the back and back frame pieces. Assemble in the same manner as the side panels, using the proper screws in the corresponding pieces.

plans to build the Ames Chest 3

3.  Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Attach the top 1×2 with the pocket holes facing up and the remaining 1×2 pieces with the pocket holes facing down. The 2×3 piece will have the pocket holes facing to the inside. Use glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws in the 1×2 pieces, and 2″ pocket hole screws in the 2×3 piece.

 plans to build the Ames Chest 4

4. Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers. Drill the pocket holes as shown. Attach to the front stretchers and the cabinet back at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

plans to build the Ames Chest 5

5. Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the top into the sides, back, legs, and upper stretcher. The top will overhang the front and sides by 1/2″.

plans to build the Ames Chest 6

6. Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms and attach using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

plans to build the Ames Chest 7

plans to build the Ames Chest 9

 

7. Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. For an another easy tutorial, click here. Attach the drawer hardware.

 plans to build the Ames Chest 10

Finish the piece as desired! The plans to build the Ames Chest are very easy and perfectly geared toward any skill level. Any questions or are you stuck on the plan? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com! I awould be glad to help!

#furnitureplans #woodworkingplans #diy




A Neat Cabinet with Pieced Doors

DIY Plans to Build a Mosaic Cabinet

Do you like cabinets that are simple and easy to build with a little twist? The DIY plans to build a Mosaic Cabinet feature two doors with a pieced mosaic detail on the front with a large shelf on the inside. The piece would be a great addition to any room and can also be completed in a weekend.

DIY Plans to Build a Mosaic Cabinet_Copy

Materials:

  • 1″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 6 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 33-1/2″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 17″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 26-1/2″ – Side Panels
  • 4 – 2×2 at 53″ – Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 26-1/2″ x 53″ – Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 53″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 1×2 at 15-1/2″ – Shelf Framing
  • 2 – 1×2 at 53″ – Shelf Framing
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 53″ – Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 56″ – Top
  • 4 – 1×3 at 21-3/16″ – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1×3 at 26-3/16″ – Door Stiles
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 21-3/16″ x 21-3/16″ – Door Panel
  • 8 – 1/4″ plywood at 2-1/2″ x 15″ – Door Mosaic
  • 32 – 1/4″ triangles at 4-7/16″ x 8-13/16″ – Door Mosaic

DIY Plans to Build a Mosaic Cabinet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side framing, and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Attach the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the panels inside the side framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame.

DIY Plans to Build a Mosaic Cabinet_Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Secure the stretchers to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Mosaic Cabinet_Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the piece for the back panel. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure the panel to the back legs and stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build a Mosaic Cabinet_Back

Step Four

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the bottom to the lower stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the bottom panel will be flush with the top face of the lower stretcher.

DIY Plans to Build a Mosaic Cabinet_Bottom

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the shelf frame and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws with the pocket holes facing out. This way, the pocket holes will be hidden when the frame is secured inside the cabinet!

Secure the frame inside the cabinet using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. (The frame will be secured to the back  which will set it 1-1/2″ back from the front face of the legs.)

Cut the piece for the shelf. Secure the shelf to the top of the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Mosaic Cabinet_Shelf Frame

DIY Plans to Build a Mosaic Cabinet_Shelf

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the door frames and the door panels. Drill pocket holes in each end of the door rail pieces. Assemble the frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole screws for 1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the panel to the frame using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame.

DIY Plans to Build a Mosaic Cabinet_Doors 1

Step Seven

It would be easier to pre-finish the doors and the mosaic pieces prior to setting the mosaic pieces in place. The mosaic pieces can be finished in different colors of stain, or all in one color!

Cut the pieces, cutting the angles at 45°. Dry fit the pieces on the door panels, trimming as necessary. Secure the mosaic pieces in place using glue. Lay a piece of wax paper over the top, then clamp a board over the wax paper until the glue cures.

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the opening.

DIY Plans to Build a Mosaic Cabinet_Doors 2

DIY Plans to Build a Mosaic Cabinet_Doors 3

DIY Plans to Build a Mosaic Cabinet_Doors 4

The Mosaic Cabinet would look fabulous in a dining room or an entryway. It would also be a great media cabinet! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Mosaic Cabinet? Leave a comment below!




How to Build Corner Kitchen Cabinets

An Easy Project for a Kitchen Remodel – the Corner Kitchen Cabinet Plans

I was recently asked by a reader if I had plans on the site to build corner kitchen cabinets… I do have a post about my lower corner kitchen cabinet not fitting through the front door (d’oh!) but did not have any corner kitchen cabinet plans. The plans are based on the corner cabinets I built for my own kitchen, including the “L” shaped door – I was too cheap the spend the money on the corner cabinet door hinges to make the doors open flat. The “L” shaped doors still open wide enough for me to get my larger appliances in and out, including my 6qt. slow cooker! The doors don’t have to be built the same way I show here – build them to suit your needs! The materials and lumber listed are to build one upper cabinet and one lower cabinet. The lower cabinet also rests on adjustable cabinet feet. I used the adjustable feet to keep the cabinet off of the floor. The hardware includes clips for the kick plate.

Corner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-CopyMaterials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 4 – overlay hinges (like these)
  • 4 – corner cabinet door hinges, optional (like these)
  • 4 – adjustable cabinet feet (like these)
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 3 sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 31″ x 36″ – Lower Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 31″ x 35-1/4″ – Lower Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 21-1/2″ x 31″ – Lower Sides
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 34-1/2″ x 34-1/2″ – Lower Bottom & Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 2-1/2″ x 13″ – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 2-1/2″ x 13-3/4″ – Lower Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 19-3/4″ – Shelf Supports
  • 1 – 1×2 at 33-3/4″ – Shelf Supports
  • 1 – 1×2 at 34-1/2″ – Shelf Supports
  • 3 – 1×3 at 28-3/4″ – Door Stiles
  • 1 – 1×3 (ripped to 1-3/4″ wide) at 28-3/4″ – Door Stile
  • 4 – 1×3 at 8-1/4″ – Door Rails
  • 2 – 1/4″ plywood at 9″ x 24-1/2″ – Door Panels
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 24″ x 24″ – Upper Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 23-1/4″ x 24″ – Upper Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-1/4″ x 24″ – Upper Sides
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 22-1/2″ x 22-1/2″ – Upper Top, Bottom, and Shelves
  • 2 – 1×2 at 9-1/2″ – Shelf Supports
  • 1 – 1×2 at 21-5/8″ – Shelf Supports
  • 1 – 1×2 at 22-1/2″ – Shelf Supports
  • 3 – 1×3 at 23-1/2″ – Door Stiles
  • 1 – 1×3 (ripped to 1-3/4″ wide) at 23-1/2″ – Door Stile
  • 4 – 1×3 at 6-1/2″ – Door Rails
  • 2 – 1/4″ plywood at 7-1/4″ x 19-1/4 – Door Panels

Corner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Upper Corner CabinetCorner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Lower Corner CabinetClick on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes:

The steps apply to both the upper and lower cabinets unless otherwise noted.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the back. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in one edge of the shorter back piece as shown in the drawings. Secure the back piece using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Corner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Upper BackCorner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Lower BackStep Two

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each piece. Secure the to the back pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Corner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Upper SidesCorner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Lower SidesStep Three

Cut the pieces for the bottom and shelves, as well as the top for the upper cabinet. Cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Drill pocket holes as shown in the bottom pieces as well as the upper top. Secure the bottom pieces to the back and sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Corner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Upper BottomCorner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Lower BottomStep Four

Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Secure the longest support to the back first, using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails, then attach the remaining pieces. The shortest pieces will be located 1″ back from the front edge of the sides. Position the shelves on the supports and secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Corner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Upper SupportsCorner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Lower SupportsCorner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Upper ShelfCorner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Lower ShelfStep Five

For the upper cabinet – position the top as shown and secure to the back and sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Corner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Upper TopStep Six

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter piece, and one end only of the longer piece. Assemble the pieces in an “L” shape using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Position the pieces at the upper part of the sides as shown. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Corner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Lower StretchersStep Seven

Cut the pieces for the doors. One stile will be narrower than the other three for each set of doors – see the drawings. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces locating the pocket holes so they will not interfere with the router bit when the recess is cut for the panels. Assemble the door frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Corner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Upper Doors 1Corner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Lower Doors 1Step Eight

Use a 3/8″ rabbeting bit and a router to cut a 1/4″ deep recess on the inside of the frame for the door panels. Cut the panels for the doors, and secure in place with glue and clamps.

Corner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Upper Doors 2Corner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Lower Doors 2Step Nine

If creating the “L” shaped doors, use 1-1/4″ brad nails and glue to attach the doors to each other. If using the corner cabinet hinges, install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Attach the 3/8″ overlay hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. The top and bottom of the doors will overlap the opening by 1/2″, and the sides will overlay by 3/8″. Corner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Upper Doors 3Corner Kitchen Cabinet Plans-Lower Doors 3Finish as desired. Building corner cabinet for a kitchen is very easy, and there are several different ways the cabinet can be built. This was the design I used in my own kitchen and has worked really well for me! Have any questions about the corner kitchen cabinet plans? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

Disclaimer:

This post contains affiliate links. What that means is that if the link is clicked and a purchase is made, I will receive a commission.




New Plans for Fabulous Space-Saving Cabinet

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet

This cabinet is a really neat option for any space… As a single cabinet, it is perfect as a media stand but it also can be built in a pair, then stacked (properly secured, of course!) to make a fabulous piece of storage! The DIY furniture plans to build a Stackable Cabinet feature sliding doors with glass or Plexiglas inserts, and a shelf behind them. It is a super-easy build that requires sliding door hardware (attached to the back of the doors which run in kerfs cut into the bottom and top stretcher). There is also trim along the edges of the top and bottom, and supports for the shelf inside.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Copy

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • 2″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 1/4″ glass or Plexiglas for the door inserts
  • Sliding door hardware
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools Needed:

  • Table saw or Circular saw
  • Miter saw
  • Jigsaw
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Router with 1/4″ rabbeting bit
  • Iron for edge banding
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
  • Sander

Lumber:

  • 6 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×4 at 4′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/4″ x 41-3/4″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 29-3/4″ – Sides
  • 2 – 1×2 at 41-3/4″ – Bottom Supports
  • 2- 1×2 at 29-1/4″ – Side Faces
  • 1 – 1×4 at 41-3/4″ – Upper Stretcher
  • 2 – 1×2 at 14-3/4″ – Side Shelf Supports
  • 3 – 1×2 at 41-3/4″ – Shelf Supports & Rear Stretcher
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 41-3/4″ – Shelf
  • 4 – 1×3 at 15-3/4″ – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1×3 at 26-3/4″ – Door Stiles
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/4″ x 43-1/4″ – Top
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 28-1/2″ x 42-1/2″ – Back
  • 4 – 1×2 at 19-1/4″ – Upper & Lower Side Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 44-3/4″ – Upper & Lower Front Trim

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes about the project:

Before cutting the kerfs for the sliding door hardware, read the instructions with the hardware to determine the precise width and depth of the kerf. Large fender washers with a screw can also be used. The washers will be positioned so that the washer extends 3/8″ past the edges of the doors (they are installed at the top and the bottom).

Edge banding will be applied to the front end of the shelf prior to installing it in the cabinet.

Step One

Cut the piece for the bottom and the sides. Cut the kerfs in the front edge of the bottom according to the instructions for the sliding door hardware. Cut the 3/4″ x 3/4″ notches in the front edge with a jigsaw. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes on the underside of the bottom.

Secure the bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws positioning the bottom piece 3/4″ up from the bottom edge of the sides with the back edges of all pieces flush with each other (the front edge with the notches will extend 3/4″ past the sides).

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Bottom

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Secure to the underside of the bottom between the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The front support is positioned so that the ends are flush with the sides.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Bottom Supports

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the side faces and secure in place using glue and 2″ brad nails. The outside edges of the faces will be flush with the sides.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Side Faces

Step Four

Cut the piece for the upper stretcher and cut the kerfs for the sliding door hardware. Cut the 3/4″ x 3/4″ notches in the front edge with a jigsaw, and drill pocket holes on the opposite side of the piece. Secure the stretcher to the sides behind the side faces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Upper Stretcher 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Upper Stretcher

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the shelf supports and rear stretcher. Secure the side shelf supports using glue and 1-1/4″ screws (the back edges of the supports will be positioned 3/4″ from back edges of the sides).

Secure the front and back shelf supports to the side supports using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

Drill pocket holes in each end of the rear stretcher and secure to the upper back edge of the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Shelf Supports 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Shelf Supports & Stretcher

Step Six

Cut the piece for the shelf and apply edge banding to the front edge. Secure the shelf to the supports using glue and 2″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Shelf

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the door frames. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rail pieces. Assemble the frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Using the router and the 1/4″ rabbeting bit, cut a 1/4″ deep by 1/4″ wide rabbet along the inside opening of the frame.

Cut the pieces of glass or Plexiglas to fit inside the opening (the inside corners of the frame may have to be chiseled square). Secure the glass or Plexiglas in place using a thin bead of silicone on the frame, then position the glass or Plexiglas.

Install the sliding door hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If I’m understanding it correctly, you should be able to shim the doors in the opening (starting with the outer door in the kerf closest to the front edge), then install the hardware. Repeat with the second door.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Doors 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Doors 2

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Doors 3

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the top and secure it in place using glue and 2″ brad nails through the top into the sides and rear stretcher. Secure the top to the front upper stretcher using 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Top

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the back and secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Back

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the side and front trim. Install the side trim pieces first, then install the front pieces.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Upper & Lower Trim

Finish the cabinet as desired, then add cabinet pulls to the doors.

If building two cabinets for the stackable option, they can be secured together by using long screws through the underside of the top into the bottom supports and bottom piece. Three units can also be built and stacked, and will definitely need to be secured to a wall for security.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet - Stacked

A fabulous cabinet with sliding doors that can be built in a pair (or three units) and stacked for the ultimate storage piece! (Proper securing to a wall is required!)

Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Stackable Cabinet? Leave a comment below!




A Plan for a Catalog Retailer Knock-Off

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet

Most everyone loves IKEA furniture, right? It is simple, modern and an absolute joy to put together – or so I’m told! Today’s DIY furniture plans to build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet are very similar to the original with shelves behind glass (or Plexiglas) doors and three drawers on the bottom. The neat thing about these cabinets is that the top does not overhang the sides so more than one can be built then placed side by side for the ultimate in storage!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet - Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 2″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Cabinet pulls (for the doors and drawers)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools needed:

  • Table saw or circular saw
  • Miter saw
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Router with 1/4″ rabbetting bit
  • Hinge mortise jig, optional

Lumber:

  • 5 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 6 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 4 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1/4″ glass or Plexiglas for the doors

Cut List:

  • 4- 2×2 at 76-3/4″ – Legs
  • 6 – 2×2 at 11″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11″ x 36-1/8″ – Upper Side Panels
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11″ x 32-1/8″ – Lower Side Panels
  • 10 – 2×2 at 32″ Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 35″ – Top
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 11″ x 32″ – Lower Shelves
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 32″ – Upper Shelves
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 33-1/2″ x 72″ – Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-7/16″ x 31-7/8″ – Upper Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-7/16″ x 12-1/2″ – Upper Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 9-7/16″ x 31-7/8″ – Middle Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 9-7/16″ x 12-1/2″ – Middle Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-15/16″ x 31-7/8″ – Lower Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-15/16″ x 12-1/2″” – Lower Drawer Box Sides
  • 3 – 1/4″ plywood at 13″ x 30-7/8″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 4 – 1×2 at 12-13/16″ – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1×2 at 35-7/8″ – Door Stiles

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes about the project:

Edge banding will be applied to the edges of the top and will be applied to the front edges of the upper shelves prior to securing them to the cabinet.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, side framing and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the side framing pieces. Secure the side framing to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the side panels. Insert the panels in the side framing securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back faces of the panels will be flush with the back faces of the side framing.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet - Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the side framing (the legs) using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet - Back Stretchers

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet - Front Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the piece for the top. The front edge of the top will overhang by 1/2″. Secure in place using glue and 2″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet - Top

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the lower shelves. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the shelves between the lower front and back stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top faces of the shelves will be flush with the top faces of the stretchers.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet - Lower Shelves

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the upper shelves and drill pocket holes in the side edges. Secure the shelves to the sides of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The shelves will be set back 1-1/2″ from the front faces of the legs (making them flush with the back legs).

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet - Upper Shelves

Step Six

Cut the piece for the back. Center the piece on the back and secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet - Back

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box front and back pieces on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet - Drawer Box 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet - Drawer Box 2

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet - Drawer Box 3

Step Nine

Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box front to the drawer box sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Slide the drawers in each corresponding opening.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet - Drawer Box 4

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet - Drawers

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rails and assemble the door frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Use the router and the rabbetting bit to cut a 1/4″ deep rabbet along the inside of each door frame. Cut the glass or Plexiglas to fit in the opening, securing in place with a bead of silicone or turnbuttons secured to the frame to hold the glass in place.

If needed, use a hinge mortise jig to cut mortises in the door frames for the hinges. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet - Doors 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet - Doors 2

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet - Doors 3

Finish as desired. Install the cabinet pulls, and apply a coat of paste wax on the bottom of the drawers so they slide in the openings.

An easy to build cabinet inspired by the IKEA Hemnes collection.

This is a super-simple plan that is definitely suitable for those new to woodworking. I may add more IKEA inspired plans in the future… Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet? Leave a comment below!




A Cabinet with a Unique Door

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Diamond Single Door Cabinet

When I saw the piece that inspired this cabinet, I was in love! The original cabinet is longer with four doors. The DIY furniture plans to build a Diamond Single Door Cabinet feature a door with triangular pieces attached to the door frame to create the center diamond with a piece of Plexiglas attached to the back. The cabinet also has a shelf inside and can serve many uses in the home!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Diamond Single Door Cabinet - Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-3/4″ brad nails
  • 3/4″ screws
  • Edge banding
  • 1/4″ Plexiglas
  • 1 Set of hinges
  • 1 Cabinet pull
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools needed:

  • Miter saw or Circular saw
  • Table saw
  • Iron for edge banding
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
  • Sander

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×10 at 4′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 29-1/4″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 15″ – Lower Side Framing
  • 2 – 1×2 at 15″ – Upper Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 23″ – Side Panels
  • 2 – 2×2 at 21″ – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 21″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 1×2 at 21″ – Upper Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 21″ x 23″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-3/8″ x 21″ – Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 25″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×3 at 15-3/4″ – Door Rails
  • 2 – 1×3 at 22-3/4″ – Door Stiles
  • 4 – 1×10 pieces cut at 7-7/8″ x 8-7/8″ – Triangle Detail
  • 1 – 1/4″ Plexiglas at 17-3/4″ x 19-3/4″ – Door Panel

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Diamond Single Door Cabinet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, side framing and side panels. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 framing pieces. Secure the 2×2 pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 framing pieces as well as all four edges of the side panels. Secure the framing pieces to the upper portion of the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the panel to the framing and legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Diamond Single Door Cabinet - Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the 2×2 lower stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the lower stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in as all four edges of the bottom. Secure the bottom to the lower front stretchers and the side framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the bottom with be flush with the top face of the lower stretchers.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Diamond Single Door Cabinet - Lower Stretchers

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Diamond Single Door Cabinet - Bottom

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the upper stretchers to the upper portion of the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the back to the legs and stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Diamond Single Door Cabinet - Upper Stretchers

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Diamond Single Door Cabinet - Back

Step Four

Cut the piece for the shelf and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Secure the shelf to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. the shelf will be positioned 1-1/8″ back from the front face of the legs which makes it flush with the back.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Diamond Single Door Cabinet - Shelf

Step Five

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang the sides and front by 1/2″. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Diamond Single Door Cabinet - Top

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the door frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces (the door rails). Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Diamond Single Door Cabinet - Door 1

Step Seven

Cut the triangular pieces for the door frame and drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Secure the pieces to the inner edge of the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Diamond Single Door Cabinet - Door 2

Step Eight

Cut the piece of Plexiglas for the back of the door. Drill holes in the corners and longer edges of the Plexiglas and attach it to the inside of the door using 3/4″ screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Diamond Single Door Cabinet - Door 3

Install the hinges on the door, then install the door in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the door in the opening.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Diamond Single Door Cabinet - Door 4

Install the cabinet knob.

Finish as desired.

This cabinet would be fabulous if used as a bar or as a media stand! Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Diamond Single Door Cabinet? Leave a comment below!




A Small Cabinet with Lots of Storage

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest

This little cabinet can serve a great purpose in so many rooms… The DIY plans to build a Cate Chest feature a drawer on top and a door at the bottom with two shelves inside. The drawer front and door are pieced to make it look vintage! This is a very easy build and can be finished in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Copy

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-3/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 29-1/4″ – Legs
  • 2 – 1×2 at 12″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12″ x 23-3/4″ – Side Panels
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14″ x 15″ – Upper Shelf & Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 14″ – Center Shelf
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 15-1/2″ x 24-7/8″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-1/2″ x 18″ – Top
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 12-3/4″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-3/8″ x 12-3/4″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 13-7/8″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – 1×3 at 13-7/8″ – Drawer Box Front Trim
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-3/4″ x 18″ – Door Base
  • 3 – 1×3 at 13-3/4″ – Door Trim

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper using a jigsaw, bandsaw or a tapering jig on a table saw.

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the side framing and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces and all four edges of the panels. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the panels to the side framing assembly using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the side framing assembly.

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Sides

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the upper shelf and bottom, and drill pocket holes in the side edges. Secure the upper shelf and bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Upper Shelf & Bottom

Step Four

Cut the piece for the center shelf and drill pocket holes in the side edges. Position the shelf so it is flush with the back of the legs which will make it 1-1/2″ back from the front legs (to allow for the door). Secure the shelf to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Center Shelf

Step Five

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Back

Step Six

Cut the piece for the top. The top will be flush with the back, and will overhang the sides and front by 1/2″. Secure in place using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Top

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the 1×3 trim piece using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Apply a  coat of paste wax to the bottom of the drawer to help it slide smoothly.

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Drawer 1

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Drawer 2

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the door. Attach the trim pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Install the hinges on the door, then install the door in the cabinet.

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Door 1

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Door 2

Finish as desired.

This cabinet would make a fabulous nightstand or an end table in a living room! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Cate Chest? Leave a comment below!




A Rustic Cabinet with Lots of Storage

DIY Plans to Build a Woodruff Cabinet

We can all use more storage, am I right? This cabinet will help solve any storage dilemma and keep it looking tidy in the process! The DIY plans to build a Woodruff Cabinet feature a total of eight cubbies – four with slatted doors – and a planked top with trim at the bottom. The doors can be installed on any of the cubbies desired: all on one side, all at the bottom or top, or staggered as shown in the image. Add a fabulous rustic finish and this will be a great piece for any room!

DIY Plans to Build a Woodruff Cabinet-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ brad nails
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • 8 sets of hinges
  • 4 cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 4 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×4 at 8′
  • 8 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×6 at 4′
  • 1 – 2×6 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×8 at 4′
  • 2 – 2×8 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 79-1/2″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 13-1/2″ – Upper Side Framing
  • 2 – 2×6 at 13-1/2″ – Lower Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 72-1/2″ – Side Panels
  • 8 – 2×2 at 42″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×6 at 42″ – Lower Front & Back Stretchers
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 42″ – Shelves
  • 8 – 2×2 at 17″ – Front & Back Dividers
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 17-3/4″ – Center Dividers
  • 3 – 2×8 (ripped to 5-3/4″ wide) at 46-1/2″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×4 at 16-1/2″ – Lower Side Trim
  • 1 – 1×4 at 46-1/2″ – Lower Front Trim
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 43-1/2″ x 76″ – Back
  • 8 – 1×3 at 16-3/4″ – Door Stiles
  • 8 – 1×3 at 15″ – Door Rails
  • 20 – 1×2 at 15″ – Door Slats

DIY Plans to Build a Woodruff Cabinet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, side framing and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the side panels. Secure the panels inside the side frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back faces of the panels will be flush with the inside faces of the side frames.

DIY Plans to Build a Woodruff Cabinet-Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers, and the lower front and back stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Woodruff Cabinet-Back Stretchers

DIY Plans to Build a Woodruff Cabinet-Front Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each piece. Secure the shelves to the stretchers and the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top faces of the shelves will be flush with the top faces of the stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build a Woodruff Cabinet-Shelves

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the front and back dividers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the dividers to the stretchers using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Woodruff Cabinet-Front & Back Dividers

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the center dividers. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each piece. Secure the center dividers to the front and back dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside face of each divider will be flush with the side face of the front and back dividers where the cabinet will be open. For example, if the top door will be on the left of the cabinet, the center divider will be flush with the side edge of the front and back dividers on the right side.

DIY Plans to Build a Woodruff Cabinet-Center Dividers

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the top. The front and sides will overhang by 3/4″ while the back edge will be flush with the back legs. Secure the pieces starting with the back piece using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws through the top into the side framing.

DIY Plans to Build a Woodruff Cabinet-Top

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the side and front trim. Install the side trim first, securing in place using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails, then install the front trim.

DIY Plans to Build a Woodruff Cabinet-Lower Trim

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Woodruff Cabinet-Back

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in each end of the door rails and the slats. Assemble the doors as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Once the door positions are determined, install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

DIY Plans to Build a Woodruff Cabinet-Doors 1

DIY Plans to Build a Woodruff Cabinet-Doors 2

Finish as desired.

Large (locking) casters can be added to the bottom to make this cabinet portable. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Woodruff Cabinet? Leave a comment below!




An Easy to Build Mid-Century Style Cabinet

DIY Plans to Build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet

Love easy to build Mid Century style furniture? This cabinet is for you! The DIY plans to build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet is a trapezoid shape with angled doors and shelving inside. The legs on the base mimic the lines of the cabinet, and the doors are hinged at the center. This is an ultra-easy cabinet to build – even for those new to woodworking!

DIY Plans to Build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet-Copy

DIY Plans to Build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet-Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-3/4″ brad nails
  • 2″ screws
  • Edge banding
  • 2 sets of concealed hinges
  • Cabinet pulls
  • 2 magnetic catches
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×4 at 4′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 22-11/16″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 27-15/16″ – Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 52″ – Top
  • 4 – 2×4 at 11-1/4″ – Legs
  • 2 – 1×2 at 21-1/16″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 11-1/2″ – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 18-1/2″ – Divider
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 18-15/16″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 19-1/4″ x 50-3/16″ – Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/4″ x 24″ – Doors

DIY Plans to Build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and the stretchers. For the legs – cut the boards to length. Cut the taper using a tapering jig on the table saw, a bandsaw, or a jigsaw, then cut the angles in each end.

The angles in each end of the front and back stretchers are 30°. Drill one pocket hole in each end. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside faces of the stretchers will be flush with the outside faces of the legs.

Drill pocket holes in each end of the side stretchers. Secure the side stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet-Base Legs & Stretchers

DIY Plans to Build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet-Base 1

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the sides of the cabinet. Cut a 30° bevel in each end. (See the arrows in the drawing for the direction.)

Cut the pieces for the top and the bottom, also cutting 30° bevels in each end. Assemble the cabinet as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails. The brad nails may have to be inserted at a slight angle so they won’t go through the side or bottom pieces.

DIY Plans to Build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet-Sides copy

DIY Plans to Build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet-Top & Bottom

Step Three

Position the cabinet on the base with 3/4″ overhanging on each side. Secure the cabinet to the base using glue and countersunk 2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet-Base 2

Step Four

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the divider to the top and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet-Divider

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the shelves and cut a 30° bevel in one end of each piece. In the opposite end, drill pocket holes making sure they are staggered so they won’t interfere with the pocket holes in the opposite shelf.

Secure the shelves to the divider using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the opposite side of each shelf to the side using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

The shelves are positioned so they are flush with the back edge of the divider, making them 1″ back from the front of the divider.

DIY Plans to Build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet-Shelves 1

DIY Plans to Build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet-Shelves 2

Step Six

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet-Back

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the doors in the openings. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Install the cabinet pulls and the magnetic catches.

DIY Plans to Build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet-Doors 1

DIY Plans to Build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet-Doors 2

Finish as desired.

This fabulous cabinet would look great in any room and would also make a great media stand! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Mid Century Modern Angled Cabinet? Leave a comment below!