Build a Truman Shelving Unit

Simple Shelving with a Modern Twist – the Truman Shelving Unit Plans

Need shelving and want something other than a plain bookcase? The Truman shelving unit plans are for you! Super simple to construct using off-the-shelf lumber, the shelving unit has a very modern vibe with plenty of storage. The shelving unit can be assembled using pocket hole screws or countersunk screws, which makes it a great project for everyone!
Truman Shelving Unit Plans-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws OR
  • 2″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 4 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×12 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1×12 at 69-1/4″ – Sides
  • 2 – 1×12 at 32″ – Top & Bottom
  • 1 – 1×12 at 69-1/4″ – Back
  • 4 – 1×12 at 20-7/8″ – Shelves

Truman Shelving Unit PlansClick on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the sides and top. If using the pocket hole method, set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Secure to the top and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. If using the countersunk screw method, mark the position for the countersunk holes on the top and bottom pieces then drill the countersink holes. Secure the sides to the top and bottom using glue and 2″ screws.
Truman Shelving Unit Plans-Cabinet

Step Two

Cut the piece for the back. If using the pocket hole method, drill pocket holes in each end of the back piece. Secure to the top and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. If using the countersunk screw method, mark the position for the countersunk holes on the top and bottom pieces then drill the countersink holes. Secure the back to the top and bottom using glue and 2″ screws.
Truman Shelving Unit Plans-Back

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the shelves. If using the pocket hole method, drill pocket holes in one  end of the each piece as well as the end of one long edge where the shelf will attach to the back. There will be two right pieces and two left piece. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. If using the countersunk screw method, mark the position for the countersunk holes on the sides and back pieces then drill the countersink holes. Secure the shelves to the sides and back using glue and 2″ screws. Truman Shelving Unit Plans-ShelvesFinish as desired! Casters can be added to the shelving unit to make it easier to move it as needed. The Truman shelving unit plans are a great project for any skill level and can be completed in a weekend. Have any questions about the plans? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build an Open Shelving Bookcase

An Easy to Build and Stylish Piece – Plans to Build an Open Shelving Bookcase!

I love this open shelving – the bookcase has so many possibilities! Casters can be added to the base to make it easier to move, and two can be built placing them side by side which would add up to a ton of storage! The plans to build an open shelving bookcase are super-easy and very inexpensive to build!

Plans to Build an Open Shelving Bookcase-CopyMaterials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 7 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1×3 at 12-1/2″ – Base Frame
  • 2 – 1×3 at 47″ – Base Frame
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 45-1/2″ – Base Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 71″ – Legs
  • 2 – 1×2 at 14″ – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 20″ – Upper Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14″ x 21-1/2″ – Top
  • 8 – 1×2 at 12-1/2″ – Shelf Assembly Frame
  • 8 – 1×2 at 33-1/2″ – Shelf Assembly Frame
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 33-1/2″ – Shelf Assembly Panel

Plans to Build an Open Shelving BookcaseClick on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the base frame and panel. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the panel. Insert into the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Plans to Build an Open Shelving Bookcase-BaseStep Two

Cut the pieces for the legs. Position on the base as shown, then secure in place using glue and countersunk 1-1/2″ screws.

Plans to Build an Open Shelving Bookcase-LegsStep Three

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Insert into the upper frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Plans to Build an Open Shelving Bookcase-StretchersPlans to Build an Open Shelving Bookcase-TopStep Four

Cut the pieces for the shelf frames and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frames. Assemble the frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the panels. Insert into the frames and secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Attach the shelf assemblies to the legs using glue and countersunk 1-1/2″ screws – two in each leg for each shelf.

Plans to Build an Open Shelving Bookcase-Assemblies 1Shelving-Assemblies 2Finish as desired!

This bookcase would be awesome in a kiddo’s room to hold books and toys, and would also be a great addition to a bathroom to hold clean towels and other toiletries! Have any questions about the plans to build an open shelving bookcase? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Cascade Bookcase

The Cascade Bookcase Plans – Ultra Stylish and Easily Movable!

Check out this cool bookcase – it is the ultimate in organization with the chunky look and the casters on the bottom! Use the  Cascade Bookcase plans to create an awesomely modern piece of furniture!

 cascade bookcase plans_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 2″ casters (rated for 80 lbs. each)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×12 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×12 at 8
  • 3 – 2×12 at 6′
  • 1 – 2×12 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×12 at 67″ – Bookcase Frame
  • 1 – 2×12 at 63″ – Bookcase Frame
  • 1 – 2×12 at 33-1/2″ – Bookcase Frame
  • 1 – 2×12 at 32-1/4″ – Bookcase Frame
  • 1 – 2×12 at 30-3/4″ – Bookcase Frame
  • 1 – 1×12 at 67″ – Large Divider
  • 4 – 1×12 at 29-1/4″ – Horizontal Dividers
  • 1 – 1×12 at 33-1/2″ – Small Divider

 cascade bookcase plans

Step One

Cut the pieces for the bookcase frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the 67″ pieces as well as the 33-1/2″ piece. Drill pocket holes in one end only of the 30-3/4″ piece. The remaining pieces will not have pocket holes drilled in them. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

 cascade bookcase plans_Frame

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the large dividers. Cut the notches using a jigsaw. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the divider pieces.  Assemble the large dividers as shown, then insert into the frame securing them using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 cascade bookcase plans_Large Dividers 1

cascade bookcase plans_Large Dividers 2

cascade bookcase plans_Large Dividers 3

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the small dividers and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces then assemble the dividers as shown. Secure in the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 cascade bookcase plans_Small Dividers 1

cascade bookcase plans_Small Dividers 2

cascade bookcase plans_Small Dividers 3

Step Four

Finish the bookcase as desired. Add the casters to the bottom using 1-1/2″ screws.

 cascade bookcase plans_Casters

The Cascade Bookcase plans will help add inexpensive storage to any room. The casters make it easy to move when rearranging or redecorating! Let me know if you need help or have any questions! Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

Disclaimer:

This post contains links to a site of which I am an affiliate. What that means is if the link is clicked and a purchase is made, I will get a commission of that sale. Rest assured I would only direct my readers to sites I shop at myself!




Build a Stately Bookcase

Use These Plans to Build a Large Stately Bookcase

If I had a space large enough, I would have this bookcase! Huge in stature, this bookcase features eight lower drawers, two lower cabinets each with doors and a shelf, and several shelves at the top. Plus, there is room for customization at the top – the top area where the trim is located can be stenciled, painted a different color, or even carved! If staining, why not try the Glue-Resist Technique? It would be beautiful! However you choose to finish it, these plans to build a large stately bookcase will have you producing a gorgeous piece of furniture in no time!

plans build large stately bookcase_Copy

Materials:

  • 1″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 3/4″ brad nails
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 8 sets of 16″ drawer slides
  • 4 sets of hinges
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 4 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 5 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 4 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood (PureBond would be an excellent choice!)
  • Crown Molding and Trim for Top Front

Cut List:

  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 82-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 3 – 1×3 at 18-3/4″ – Bottom Supports
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 29-1/4″ – Lower Sides
  • 1 – 1×3 at 82-1/2″ – Lower Kick Plate
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 26″ x 82-1/2″ – Lower Back
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-3/4″ x 26″ – Lower Dividers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 26-1/8″ – Door Stretchers
  • 8 – 1×2 at 14″ – Drawer Stretchers
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-3/4″ x 26-1/8″ – Lower Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 82″ – Lower Top
  • 1 – 1×2 at 85″ – Lower Top Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18-1/2″ – Lower Top Trim
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 59-1/4″ – Upper Sides
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 29-5/8″ x 82-1/2″ – Upper Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 84″ – Upper Top
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 82-1/2″ – Top Front Supports
  • 1 – 1×2 at 82-1/2″ – Top Front Supports
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-3/4″ x 82-1/2″ – Top Front
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/4″ x 48-1/2″ – Upper Dividers
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/4″ x 28-3/4″ – Center Shelves
  • 8 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/4″ x 26-1/8″ – Side Shelves
  • 8 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-1/2″ x 14-1/2″ – Drawer Box bottoms
  • 16 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 14-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 16-3/4″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 13″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 8 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-5/16″ x 13-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts
  • 8 – 1×3 at 7-7/8″ – Door Rails
  • 8 – 1×3 at 24-1/4″ – Door Stiles
  • 4 – 1/2″ plywood at 7-7/8″ x 19-1/4″ – Door Panels
  • Crown molding and trim for Top Front cut to fit

 plans build large stately bookcase

Notes:

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

If staining,  the 1×2 pieces and 1×3 pieces can be cut from plywood (except for the Lower Top Trim pieces) to ensure cohesion of the wood species. Edge banding will have to be applied to the exposed edges and an additional sheet of plywood will have to be purchased.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the bottom supports. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in one long edge of each support piece, as well as each shorter edge of the bottom. Secure the supports to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 plans build large stately bookcase_Bottom

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the lower sides. Secure the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the toe kick and drill pocket holes in each shorter edge. Secure the toe kick to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the toe kick to the supports using 1-1/4″ brad nails.

 plans build large stately bookcase_Lower Sides

plans build large stately bookcase_Lower Kickplate

Step Three

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the bottom and the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 plans build large stately bookcase_Lower Back

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges, as well as the back edge. Secure in the cabinet as shown orienting the pocket holes toward the drawer areas so they won’t have to be filled. Secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 plans build large stately bookcase_Lower Dividers

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the door stretchers and the drawer stretchers, then drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides and dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 plans build large stately bookcase_Door Stretchers

plans build large stately bookcase_Drawer Stretchers

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the lower shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the back edges. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 plans build large stately bookcase_Lower Shelves

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the lower top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in one edge only of each side trim piece as well as the sides and front edges of the top panel. Secure the side trim pieces to the sides of the panel using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then secure the front.

Position the top so that the front and sides overhang by 1/2″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket holes through the back and dividers. Secure the top to the sides and front stretchers using 1-1/4″ brad nails.

 plans build large stately bookcase_Top 1

plans build large stately bookcase_Top 2

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the upper sides and drill pocket holes in the bottom edges only. Secure to the lower top using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, locating the pieces flush with the back edge of the top and 1/2″ in from the sides.

 plans build large stately bookcase_Upper Sides

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the upper back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of one piece, and the sides and bottom edges of the other pieces. Secure the pieces to each other using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the back to the sides and lower top using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the upper top. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the back, then secure the sides using 1-1/4″ brad nails.

 plans build large stately bookcase_Upper Back

plans build large stately bookcase_Upper Top

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the top front supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The 1×2 support piece will be located 3/4″ back from the front edges of the sides, and the lower support piece will be flush with the back.

Cut the piece for the top front. Secure to the supports and the top using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

 plans build large stately bookcase_Top Front Supports

plans build large stately bookcase_Top Front

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the upper dividers. Drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges, as well as the back edge. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 plans build large stately bookcase_Upper Dividers

Step Twelve

Cut the pieces for the center shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge. Secure to the dividers and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the side shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge. Secure to the dividers and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 plans build large stately bookcase_Center Shelves

plans build large stately bookcase_Side Shelves

Step Thirteen

Cut the pieces for the crown molding and the upper trim to fit, then secure using glue and brad nails. Use 1-1/4″ brad nails for the crown molding, and 3/4″ brad nails for the upper trim.

 plans build large stately bookcase_Trim

Step Fourteen

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. . For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

 plans build large stately bookcase_DrawerBS

plans build large stately bookcase_DrawerFB

Step Fifteen

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

 plans build large stately bookcase_Drawers

Step Sixteen

Cut the pieces for the door frames and panels. Drill pocket holes in each end of the door rails. Set the pocket hole jig for 1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the rails to the panels using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the rails. Secure the panel assemblies to the door stiles using glue and pocket hole screws. Use 1″ pocket hole screws through the panel and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the rails.

There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the doors as well as in between the pairs. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet.

 plans build large stately bookcase_Doors 1

plans build large stately bookcase_Doors 2

Finish as desired!

These plans to build a large stately bookcase will have you creating a gorgeous and functional piece of furniture sure to fit into any decor! The plans are easy to follow but if you get stuck, let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Ladder Bookshelf

Build an A-Frame Bookshelf with These DIY Plans

This is really one of the coolest bookshelves I’ve seen. To me it is only a bookshelf in name! It can be used to organize bins of toys in the kiddos room, folded fabric in the craft room, or (as I would use it) painted green with packages stacked on it for Christmas! How cool would that be? However you use it, these A-Frame Bookshelf plans are sure to please!

a-frame bookshelf plans_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • Hinges
  • Wood Glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer and paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×12 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1×3 at 40″ – Legs
  • 2 – 1×3 at 11-1/4″ – Upper Stretchers
  • 6 – 1×2 at 11-1/4″ – Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 17-13/16″ – Side Stretchers
  • 3 – 1×12 at 30″ – Shelves

a-frame bookshelf plans

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut a 15 degree bevel in the bottom of each leg so the legs will stand properly at an angle. Cut the pieces for the stretchers. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 a-frame bookshelf plans_Sides

Step Two

Install the hinges at the top to connect the two pieces together.

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers with a 15 degree angle on each side. Secure as shown (level with the lowest stretcher), then secure using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Do not use glue of you want to be able to fold the bookshelf for storage!

 a-frame bookshelf plans_Stretcher

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set them on the stretchers making sure there is an equal amount of overhang on each shelf, then secure using countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

 a-frame bookshelf plans_Shelves

Finish as desired!

 

These DIY plans to build an A-Frame Bookshelf are so easy and perfect for the beginning woodworker! The bookshelf would also be fabulous in a guest bathroom for holding clean towels and other toiletries, or if constructed out of lumber rated for outdoor use (or PVC planks, it would be an awesome plant stand! See? I just came up with a couple more uses… I bet you have amny more!




Plans for a Designer Bookcase Divider You Can Build For Less!

Build a Cube Bookcase Divider

This cube bookcase divider is so neat… I love the cubes offset by the spacers! It would be even more awesome with a two tone finish – the cubes finished one way with the spacers finished another way would be awesome but then again, it would be cool in one cohesive color. However you finish it, this is a super project suitable for all skill levels!

build cube bookcase divider_copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint or stain)

Lumber:

  • 7 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 2 sheets of 3/4″ plywood (4′ x 8′)
  • 1 half sheet of 3/4″ plywood (4′ x 4′)

Cut List:

  • 13 – 1×2 at 13-1/2″ – Spacer Frame
  • 8 – 1×2 at 34-1/2″ – Spacer Frame
  • 6 – 1×2 at 17″ – Spacer Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 14″ – Spacer Frame
  • 16 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 15-1/2″ – Cube Sides
  • 16 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 19-1/2″ – Cube Top & Bottom

build cube bookcase divider

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes:

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly. It may be easier if using two different finishes to finish the cubes and the spacer frame separately before assembly.

Step One

Start by cutting the pieces for the cubes. The easiest way to do this will be to cut the plywood sheets into strips 15″ wide, then cut the pieces to length. Using the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each of the 15″ ends. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Note that on one side, the pocket hole screws will face in and the other side the pocket holes will face out. The reason I have it drawn this way is so that only one set of pocket holes will have to be filled. The other set will face in toward the spacer frame!

bookcase divider plans_Boxes1

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the spacer frames. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 13-1/2″ pieces, the 17″ pieces, and one end only of the 14″ pieces. Start by assembling all of the rectangular frames first using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

bookcase divider plans_Frame 1

Step Three

“Stack” the frames using the 17″ pieces located at the center of each rectangular frame securing with glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

bookcase divider plans_Frame 2

Step Four

Position the 14″ pieces at the top, then close off the top of the  frame with the remaining 13-1/2″ piece.

bookcase divider plans_Frame 3

Step Five

Add the cubes in the openings created in the spacer frame. Secure the cubes using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the cubes into the spacer frame. The cubes will overhang the ends of the frame by 3″ at each side, and the top vertical spacer piece will be 3″ shorter than the cube (see the drawing).

bookcase divider plans_Boxes2

The plans to build the cube bookcase divider are easy, right? It is the perfect piece to place against the wall or dividing a space into more than one area. Actually, more than one bookcase divider can be constructed to create a one-of-a-kind organization space! Hmmm… Now that idea has me thinking….




Build a Blonde Bookcase

Free DIY Woodworking Plans to Build a Blonde Bookcase

Here is another set of plans for a modular bookcase. This particular design really caught my eye! I love the symmetry and the clean lines plus the free DIY woodworking plans to build a Blonde Bookcase are super easy that requiring only minimal skills. It would be fabulous constructed out of PureBond plywood in one of their many gorgeous veneers. Just for clarity, the word “blonde” in the title refers to the color of the wood on the inspiration piece!

free DIY woodworking plans to build a blonde bookcase_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2″ screws
  • Edge banding, if desired
  • Finishing supplies

Lumber:

  • 1 full sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 half sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-3/4″ x 43-1/4″ – Shelves
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-3/4″ x 15″ – Box Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at  11-3/4″ x 20-1/4″ – Upper Divider
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at  11-3/4″ x 25-1/2″ – Middle Divider
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at  11-3/4″ x 25-1/4″ – Lower Divider
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-1/4″ x 11-3/4″ – Lower Leg
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 21-3/4″ – Upper & Middle Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-1/4″ x 21-3/4″ – Lower Back

free DIY woodworking plans to build a blonde bookcase

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Five of the shelves will have a notch cut in them as shown. One piece will be left alone and will be the top of the bookcase. Cut the notch in each shelf as shown using a jigsaw.

free DIY woodworking plans to build a blonde bookcase_Box Shelves 

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the box sides. Assemble the boxes as shown using glue and countersunk 2″ screws.

free DIY woodworking plans to build a blonde bookcase_Box Sides 

Step Three

Cut the piece for the leg and the dividers. Each divider will be a different length! Cut the notches in the dividers as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in one long edge of the leg. Secure to the bottom box using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Insert the dividers as shown, then secure using countersunk 2″ screws through the shelves into the ends of the dividers.

free DIY woodworking plans to build a blonde bookcase_Dividers 1

free DIY woodworking plans to build a blonde bookcase_Dividers 2 

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the backs. The lower back is shorter in height than the other two pieces. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

free DIY woodworking plans to build a blonde bookcase_Back

Finish as desired!

The free DIY woodworking plans to build a Blonde Bookcase are an excellent choice for any skill level! Need help? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Flexi Bookcase

Free DIY Woodworking Plans to Build a Flexi Bookcase

Today, I’m sharing free DIY woodworking plans to build a Flexi Bookcase – one of those really neat “modular” bookcases. A single unit can be used or two can be built and stacked. As usual, this is a super-quick and easy build!

 free DIY woodworking plans to build a flexi bookcase_Copy

Materials are listed to cut one bookcase. If two are desired, double the lumber and cut list!

Materials:

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Finishing supplies

Lumber:

  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood

Cut List:

  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 18” x 59” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 26-1/2” – Side
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 18” – Side & Lower Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 41-7/8” – Top 1
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 18” – Upper Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-7/8” x 18” – Top 2

 Free DIY Woodworking Plans to Build a Flexi Bookcase

Free DIY Woodworking Plans to Build a Flexi Bookcase_2

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the piece for the bottom, sides, and lower divider. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides and lower divider. Position on the bottom as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Free DIY Woodworking Plans to Build a Flexi Bookcase_Base & SidesStep Two

Cut the piece for top 1. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Free DIY Woodworking Plans to Build a Flexi Bookcase_Top 1

Step Three

Cut the piece for the upper divider and drill pocket holes in one end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Free DIY Woodworking Plans to Build a Flexi Bookcase_Divider 

Step Four

Cut the piece for top 2. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Free DIY Woodworking Plans to Build a Flexi Bookcase_Top2

Finish as desired!

The free DIY woodworking plans to build a Flexi Bookcase are super-easy, inexpensive, and a great first project! Got a project you’ve completed using my plans? Share photos with me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com or designsbystudioc {at} gmail {dot} com. I would love to feature your build on DbSC!




Build a Bookcase Using an Old Door

How to Build a Bookcase Using an Old Door

The folks at PureBond Plywood posted a picture of a bookcase made with an old door on the PureBond Facebook page and I thought it was a fabulous idea! That particular bookcase was created by Gail at My Repurposed Life ~ how fantastic! I searched for an old door and finally found one at one of our local flea markets for $45 ~ not too bad since it was in fabulous condition and was bare wood which meant less work for me (no paint to strip)!

how to build a bookcase using an old door SANY2119 copy

I read Gail’s “how to” on the project and created instructions on how to build a bookcase using an old door with a few modifications. I added frames under the shelves, and a few more shelves but that was only because I can’t read my own instructions ~ lesson learned (I created them, too, which makes it really sad!!).

how to build a bookcase using an old door

Materials:

  • Solid wood door (mine was 30″ wide)
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 5 – 1×2 at 8′ (for 24″ wide frames)
  • 1 sheet of 3/4″ plywood (I used Purebond in Birch)
  • 1 sheet of 1/4″  lauan, plywood, or hardboard (for a continuous piece on the back – the back can be pieced if the seam is hidden behind a shelf!)
  • Trim for the top and bottom (I made mine with a routed edge on 1x material)

The drawings show dimensions – they are based on a 30″ door. Adjust the dimensions for a wider or narrower door!

Start by cutting the door in half lengthwise using a table saw or a circular saw and a helper!

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2052 

Cut the pieces for the shelf frames. Start with the side pieces ~ the top and bottom side pieces will be longer than the middle side pieces. Measure the width of the door. The top and bottom side pieces will be 1-3/4″” shorter than the width of the door. Position the pieces so that they are flush with the top edge and bottom edge of the door, and are 3/4″ back from the front edge (I used a spacer flush with the front edge). This will allow the front and back frame pieces to fit flush with the edges of the side pieces, as well as allow for the 1/4″ thick back to fit inside. (My side pieces are different in the photo because I didn’t read my own directions ~ doh!!)

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2053

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2054    

The middle side pieces will be 2-1/2″ shorter than the width of the door. This allows the front frame pieces to be set farther back so the shelf overlaps them which I think looks a lot nicer! Cut two spacers equal to the distance between the side frame pieces for the shelf position. This will allow the side pieces to be positioned at exactly the same distance without having to mark and measure everything. This is where I realized I screwed up ~ I wanted more space between the shelves and well, Gorilla Wood Glue is really strong so I couldn’t remove the side pieces I’d already installed… I also used a 1-1/2″ spacer at the front edge so that the distance was where I wanted it to be!

 how to build a bookcase using an old door 2055

Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers (I forgot to take a picture of this step, so drawings will have to do!). Fasten them to the front and back of the side spacers to join the sides together using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

how to build a bookcase using an old door_Stretchers

Cut the pieces for the shelves. They will all be the same size but the middle shelves will overlap the frames by 3/4″. The front edge of the bottom shelf will be flush with the edge of the frame. It looks nicer this way! Secure them to the frames using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

how to build a bookcase using an old door_ShelvesCut the piece for the top. It will overlap by 1″ at the sides and front. Secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

how to build a bookcase using an old door_Top

I created my own trim by routing both edges of a 1×6 board, then ripping the board on the table saw. The upper trim is approximately 7/8″ wide, and the lower trim is approximately 2-1/4″ wide. I cut mitered corners on the pieces, then attached them to the bookcase using 1-1/4″ brad nails. I cut the top to overlap the trim by 1/4″ on each side, as well as the front. The top was attached using 1-1/4″ brad nails.

 how to build a bookcase using an old door 2105

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2106

The color I chose is Strawberry Daquiri in Behr Premium Plus Ultra (which is now my new fave!!). I applied three coats. I cut a piece of 1/4″ lauan to fit inside the back then painted it also. Once everything was dry, I secured the back to the bookcase using brad nails.

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2107

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2108

I have a small plate to put over the hole for the door knob but I haven’t put it on yet. I may put half of the hinges back in the mortises. They are rusty and will look cool!!

She has already been sold! Woo hoo!! I’m so excited to have her go to a great new home!

The tutorial on how to build a bookcase using an old door is very easy to follow and I hope it inspires you to build your own. If you have any questions, contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

Sharing with My Repurposed LifeSavvy Southern Style, French Country CottageMy Romantic Home Show & Tell Friday, DIY Show OffFunky Junk Interiors, Cupcakes and Corndogs, Sawdust Girl’s Sawdust Throwdown, Beneath My Heart DIY Projects of April




Free Plans to Build a Crate and Barrel Inspired Brey Bookcase

This is the third piece in the collection – we’ve covered the Desk, as well as the File Cabinet and now we’re on to the bookcase!

This is a very easy build with minimal materials and it will be completed in no time!

Materials:

  • 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Five pieces of 3/8″ Plexiglas or acrylic measuring 14-1/2″ x 28″
  • Finishing supplies

Lumber:

  • 4 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 4 – 2×2 at 8′
  • One sheet of 1/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1×2 at 76-1/4″ – Legs
  • 10 – 2×2 at 14-1/2″ – Side Stretchers
  • 10 – 2×2 at 27″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 27-3/4″ x 74″ – Back

 

Click on the drawings to enlarge them!

 

1. Cut the pieces for the legs and the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Using a router with a 1/2″ rabbeting bit, cut a rabbet (3/8″ deep) in the top edge of each stretcher piece. The rabbets will hold the plexiglas shelves in place. Position the stretchers as shown, then attach in place using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

2. Cut the piece for the back. Attach to the back of the bookshelf using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Finish as desired!

 

If you’ve built anything using my plans, please share photos! I would love to feature your hard work on DbSC! Send me an email at designsbystudioc [at] gmail [dot] com!

 

Until next time, 

Happy Creating!!