A Beautiful Lamp with a Walnut Base

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood

I love making and refurbishing lamps.  I love walnut wood, too! I had a few scraps of PureBond walnut plywood left over from one of the projects I create for them and decided that I really, really needed a lamp with a walnut base. Constructing a lamp base from the DIY plans to build a lamp base with plywood are super-easy. The plywood is joined together using 45° bevels in the edges of the pieces. It sounds hard but really isn’t!

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Finished

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
  • 1 – 1/4″ lamp pipe at 15-1/2″
  • 1 – replacement lamp cord with plug
  • 3 – 1/4″ lamp nuts
  • 1 – washer to fit the pipe
  • 1 – candelabra socket cover at 4″
  • 2 – check rings to fit on the ends of the socket cover
  • Lamp socket
  • Lamp shade of your choice

Lumber:

  • 1 – 2’x 2′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1/2″ plywood at 5″ x 12″ – Base Sides
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 5″ square – Base Top
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 4″ square – Base Bottom

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

To Build the Lamp Base:

Cut all of the plywood pieces to size. I used the table saw with the blade set at 45° to cut the bevels in each of the long ends of the base sides, as well as the top edge of each piece. A router with a 45° chamfer bit can also be used.

Cut 45° bevels in all four edges of the top. I used a compound miter saw to do this but a router with a 45° chamfer bit can also be used.

 Sorry for the “shady” photos… It is that time of year where my work table in partially shaded!

Lay the side pieces on a flat surface side by side with the bevels facing down. Place at least two or three rows of masking tape across the pieces with the ends of the tape extending past each side piece.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Apply Tape

Carefully flip the pieces over and apply glue to each bevel. Fold the pieces on each other creating a box and secure the tape. Let the piece dry.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Apply Glue

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Glued

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Taped Assembly

Mark the center of the top and bottom pieces, and drill a hole in each piece large enough for the lamp pipe to fit through. (This is not shown in the photos.)

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Top & Bottom

Fit the beveled top into the top of the base, trimming as necessary. Spread glue on the bevels, then position the top, securing it in place with masking tape. Let the piece dry.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Top

Place the bottom piece inside the bottom positioning it approximately 1″ up from the bottom. Secure the piece in place with 1-1/4″ brad nails through the sides. I did not photograph this step but I’m sure you get the idea!

Drill a hole in the lower back side of the base below the bottom. This is so the cord will not interfere with the bottom of the lamp.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Cord Hole

Thoroughly sand the base and fill any holes or gaps with wood filler. Stain and seal the base as desired.

Decorate the base with a stencil and paint, if you’d like… I cut a stencil out of vinyl then painted it with metallic white paint. A woodburning tool could be used to create a design (before staining) or even the glue-resist technique can be used.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Stencil

To Install and Wire the Lamp:

Thread the washer and one of the nuts onto the lamp pipe, then thread the pipe through the hole in the bottom and through the hole in the top. Place a check ring (face down) over the pipe, then thread a second nut on the pipe. The check rings will “frame” the socket cover helping to keep it in place.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Pipe Bottom

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Check Ring

Cover the socket cover with scrapbooking paper or spray paint the piece. This is where I like to have fun and add a pop of color! Thread the cover on the pipe, then add the second check ring (face down) and the remaining nut.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Socket Cover

Thread the wiring through the hole in the lower edge of the base, then through the pipe and pull it out of the top. Thread the socket cap onto the pipe. Tie an underwriter’s knot (which helps keep the cord from being yanked out of the socket) and attach the wiring to the socket terminals. Wrap the wiring in the same direction as the screw will tighten. Install the socket’s cover.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Socket Wiring

Install the lamp shade of your choice! Gorgeous!

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Finished

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Night Left

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Night Right

What do you think? The lamp can be constructed out of any species of wood like oak, cherry, even cedar! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a lamp base with plywood? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




An Easy to Build Dresser with Optional Trim

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Dresser with Optional Trim

This dresser plan is easy and there are so many ways to make it unique. The DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Dresser with Optional Trim feature two smaller drawers above three longer drawers, tapered legs and the option to add decorative trim to the drawer fronts and side panels.

Other options for making this dresser truly unique include adding wallpaper to the drawer fronts and side panels, stenciling or maybe even a fabulous metallic finish!

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1″ brad nails
  • 1-1/2″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 5 sets of 15″ Drawer slides*
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

(*Regular bottom mount drawer slides can be cut to fit, click here)

Tools Needed:

  • Miter saw or Circular saw
  • Table saw
  • Iron for edge banding
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Right angle drill attachment (for tight spaces)
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
  • Sander
  • Drawer slide jig (optional)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 7 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 7 – 2×2 at 8′ (or 4 – 2×4 at 8′ ripped in half)
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 6 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ trim at 8′, optional (or 507 linear feet)

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 32-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 14-1/2″ – Side Panel Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 25-1/4″ – Side Panels
  • 10 – 2×2 at 39″ – Stretchers
  • 4 – 2×2 at 14-1/2″ – Stretcher Supports
  • 2 – 1×2 at 16-3/4″ – Small Drawer Slide Supports
  • 1 – 2×2 at 4″ – Small Drawer Slide Support Spacer
  • 1 – 1×6 at 5″ – Front Spacer
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 27-1/2″ x 40-1/2″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 43″ – Top
  • 6 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 36-1/2″ – Larger Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 10 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 15-1/4″ – ALL Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 14-1/4″ – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – 1/4″ plywood at 14-3/4″ x 37″ – Larger Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1/4″ plywood at 14-1/4″ x 14-3/4″ – Smaller Drawer Box Bottom
  • 1 – 1×6 at 38-3/4″ – Lower Drawer Front (bottom drawer)
  • 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-3/4″ wide) at 38-3/4″ – Lower Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 43/4″ wide) at 16-1/2″ – Smaller Drawer Fronts

Optional Trim:

  • 4 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ trim at 14-1/2″ – Side Panel Trim
  • 4 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ trim at 25-1/2″ – Side Panel Trim
  • 4 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ trim at 4-3/4″ – Larger Drawer Trim
  • 2 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ trim at 5-1/2″ – Larger Drawer Trim
  • 6 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ trim at 38-3/4″ – Larger Drawer Trim
  • 4 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ trim at 4-3/4″ – Smaller Drawer Trim
  • 4 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ trim at 16-1/2″ – Smaller Drawer Trim

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut a taper in the lower edge of each leg using a tapering jig on the table saw.

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the side panels and the side panel framing. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in all four edges of the side panels.

Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces.

Secure the framing pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back faces of the pieces will be flush with each other.

Secure the side panel/framing assembly to the legs using the appropriate screw for the material – 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws for 3/4″ material and 2-1/2″ screws for 1-1/2″ material.

Step Three

Cut the pieces for all of the lower stretchers and the stretcher supports, Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the supports to the center of the stretchers as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Set the remaining four stretchers and one stretcher support aside.

Step Four

Secure two of the remaining stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Step Five

Apply glue to the lower edge of the smaller drawer spacer and clamp in place until dry.

Position the 2×2 spacer on the back stretcher. Apply glue to the bottom edge and clamp in place until dry.

Secure the 1×2 drawer slide spacers to the front 1×6 spacer using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails. Secure the back end of the 1×2 slide spacers to the 2×2 spacer using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

Step Six

Secure the remaining stretcher support to the last two stretchers using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Secure the assembly to the top of the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the back panel and secure in place using glue and 1″ brad nails.

 

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang the sides and front by 1/2″. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box front and back pieces on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step Ten

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight.

Step Eleven

Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box front to the drawer box sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs.

Step Twelve

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

For the Optional Trim:

Cut the pieces as indicated in the cut list, each with a 45° mitered end. Secure the trim pieces to the side panels and drawer fronts using glue and 1″ brad nails.

This dresser is a fabulous addition to any room and can be finished in any way imaginable! Have any questions about the DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Dresser with Optional Trim? Leave a comment below!




How to Make a Framed Cork Board with Wine Bottle Corks

I made this board for Mr. Awesome for our anniversary representing some of the bottles of wine we’d shared over the past year. I thought I had enough corks but apparently not… This is still a work in progress!

Most wine bottle corks are no longer “cork”, they are rubber which works even better for this project since they are easier to cut!

Materials:

  • Wine bottle corks
  • Box cutter with a new blade
  • Frame with a wood back
  • Stain or paint for the frame
  • Hot glue gun and glue sticks

Let’s get started!

An existing frame can be used or a new one can be built. I used a frame from a cabinet door that I never finished. I routed a rabbet on the back side and glued a piece of 1/4″ lauan in the opening. I stained the frame then sealed it with polyurethane. I added a sawtooth hanger on the top and on the side so it could be hung vertically or horizontally, then added an antique-looking knob in the corner.

   

 Cut the corks in half. The rubber corks are very easy to cut but be careful!

    

Start gluing the corks  in place. Some of the corks are longer than others and small pieces will have to be trimmed to fit in the spaces but this adds to the rustic look I was trying to achieve!

    

If I hadn’t used such a large frame, this would not continue to be a work in progress! So I guess it may be a few more months before it is finally finished… Maybe for our next anniversary??

Until next time,

Happy Creating!

Tip Junkie handmade projects

 




A Media Stand with a Movable Top and Storage

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Stand

Sometimes, the TV needs to be turned temporarily during that awesome movie or big game… This TV stand lets you do just that! The DIY furniture plans to build a Swivel Top Media Stand feature a top on Lazy Susan hardware, and two doors with a shelf inside. The doors also have glass or Plexiglas inserts which can easily be replaced with punched aluminum or fabric! This is a project that can be completed in a weekend.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Copy 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-3/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • Lazy Susan hardware
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 2 magnetic catches
  • 2 cabinet pulls
  • 4 – 2″ bun feet with mounting plates
  • Glass or Plexiglas cut to fit the openings in the doors
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools Needed:

  • Miter saw or circular saw
  • Table saw
  • Iron for edge banding
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Router with 1/4″ rabbeting bit
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
  • Sander

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 28-3/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 26-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 26-1/2″ x 28″ – Back
  • 2 – 1×2 at 26-1/2″ – Upper & Middle Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 26-1/2″ – Shelf
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 28″ – Tops
  • 4 – 1×2 at 27″ – Door Stiles
  • 6 – 1×2 at 10-1/16″ – Door Rails

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. With the pocket holes jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in the side edges of the bottom. Secure the bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The pocket holes will face down (on the underside of the bottom).

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Sides & Bottom

Step Two

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the back to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Back

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the upper and middle stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the middle stretcher to the sides as shown (positioning it 1-1/4″ back from the front edge of the sides) using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Set the upper stretcher aside.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Middle Stretcher

Step Four

Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in the side edges and one long edge for the back. Position the shelf on the middle stretcher then secure the sides and back with glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Add a few 1-3/4″ brad nails through the top of the shelf into the stretcher.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Shelf

Step Five

Secure the upper stretcher to the top edge of the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Upper Stretcher

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the tops. Secure one of the tops to the cabinet using glue and  1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the back, and 1-3/4″ brad nails through the top into the sides. A few 1-1/4″ brad nails can be used to secure the top to the upper stretcher.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Top

Step Seven

Install the mounting plates and the bun feet on the bottom of the cabinet.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Feet

Step Eight

Install the Lazy Susan hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions on the top of the cabinet and the remaining top piece. For an easy tutorial on installing the hardware, click here.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Top 2

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in the shorter pieces (the rails) positioning them close together so they won’t interfere with the rabbet that will be cut for the glass or Plexiglas. Assemble the doors as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Use the router with the 1/4″ rabbeting bit to cut a 1/4″ deep rabbet along the inside of each opening on the doors.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Doors 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Doors 2

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Doors 3

Finish as desired. Cut the glass or Plexiglas to fit the openings in the doors securing in place with a thin bead of adhesive. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls and the magnetic catches.

For a different look, the swivel top can be omitted. The glass or Plexiglass can also be replaced with 1/4″ plywood – painted with chalkboard paint, perhaps? Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Swivel Top Media Stand? Leave a comment below!




A Coffee Table Added to the Riley Collection

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table

Previously, I posted plans for the Riley End Table, a table featuring X detail at each side. The DIY plans to build a Riley Coffee Table feature the same X detail at the sides, with a shelf below. This is another excellent plan for beginners – the X detail pieces are very easy to construct plus the table can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×2 at 20″ – X Detail
  • 2 – 2×2 at 10″ – X Detail
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8-11/16″ – X Detail
  • 4 – 2×2 at 15″ – Side Framing
  • 4 – 2×2 at 19-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 33″ – Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 33″ – Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19″ x 37″ – Top

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, the framing, and the X detail. Mark the angles for the X detail by drawing a line across the board at the dimension given, then drawing another line from the corner of one end of the piece to the end of the line on the opposite side. Cut the angle using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill one pocket hole each end of the angled pieces as shown. Assemble the X detail using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing pieces to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Insert the X detail piece into the frame (trimming the angles, if necessary), then secure the X detail to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Sides 1

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Sides 2

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Sides 3

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the leg frame assemblies using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the piece for the shelf. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the shelf to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Shelf

Step Four

Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will be applied to the top before securing the top to the frame. The top will overhang each side by 1/2″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Top

Finish as desired.

The coffee table and matching end tables will make a perfect addition to any decor! They are easy to construct, and (if finished properly) would be excellent outdoors on a deck or patio! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Riley Coffee Table? Leave a comment below!




A Modern Dresser Combining Shelving with Drawers

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser

This dresser has everything – a sleek, modern look with plenty of storage. The DIY plans to build a Monroe Dresser features a shelving cabinet on each side and eight drawers in the middle. This is the ultimate piece for a space where too many furniture pieces would clutter an area – this one will keep everything nicely hidden!

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Copy 1

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 8 sets of 18″ Drawer slides
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 4 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 5 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 3 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 37-1/2″ – Legs
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 18″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 31-1/4″ – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1×2 at 69″ – Upper Stretchers
  • 4 – 2×2 at 33-3/4″ – Lower Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×2 at 5-1/2″ – Center Legs
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 31-1/4″ – 69″ – Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 69″ – Bottom
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 32″ – Cabinet Dividers
  • 6 – 1×2 at 16-7/8″ – Drawer Dividers
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 18-1/2″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 21″ x 72″ – Top
  • 8 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-3/8″ x 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 16 – 3/4″ plywood at 6″ x 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 16 – 3/4″ plywood at 6″ x 15-7/8″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 8 – 3/4″ plywood at 7″ x 16-5/8″ – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/4″ x 31″ – Doors

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side framing, and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 framing pieces. Secure the 2×2 pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 framing pieces. Secure the 1×2 pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face up and will be hidden by the top.

Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the panel to the legs and framing pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside face of the panels will be flush with the inside faces of the framing and legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers, lower stretchers, the center legs, and the back. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 lower stretchers. Secure the 2×2 pieces to the center legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Secure one of these assemblies to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 upper stretchers. Secure the one of the 1×2 pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face up and will be hidden by the top.

Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back panel. Secure the panel to the legs and framing pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside face of the panels will be flush with the inside faces of the framing and legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Back

Step Three

Secure the remaining 2×2 and center leg assembly to the front legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the remaining 1×2 upper stretcher to the front legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Front Stretchers & Leg

Step Four

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the bottom piece to the lower stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the bottom panel will be flush with the top face of the lower stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Bottom

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the cabinet dividers, and cut the notch using a jigsaw. A portable jig may be used to drill the pocket hole in the notch. Secure the dividers in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Cabinet Dividers 1

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Cabinet Dividers 2

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the drawer dividers to the cabinet dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Drawer Dividers

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges and the back edge of the shelves. Position the shelves in the cabinet as shown, securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The shelves will be located 1″ back from the front face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Shelves

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Top

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the dividers. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Drawer FB

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Drawer Fronts

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the doors in the openings. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the openings. Install the magnetic catches to keep the doors closed, the install the cabinet pulls.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Doors

Finish as desired.

This cabinet does not have to be used as a dresser… The piece would make an excellent media stand, a fabulous console, or even a place to store linens and toiletries in a large bathroom! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Monroe Dresser? Leave a comment below!




Build a Fabulous Truss Dining Table

The Castleton Dining Table Plans Will Help You Create a Gorgeous Piece of Furniture with Style!

Don’t you just love the rustic look of truss-style furniture? The Castleton dining table plans fit the bill perfectly! With striking elegance, this table will have a huge impact on style but not on the budget!

castleton dining table plans_Copy

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 2×3 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×4 at 4′
  • 3 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 7 – 2×6 at 8′
  • 2 – 4×4 at 6′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 4×4 posts at 30″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×4 at 38-1/2″ – Upper Side Frame & Center Top Supports
  • 2 – 2×3 at 38-1/2″ – Lower Side Frame
  • 2 – 2×3 at 20-1/2″ – Center Side Frame
  • 4 – 2×3 at 26-3/16″ – Truss Supports
  • 4 – 2×4 at 12″ – Top Edge Boards
  • 2 – 2×4 at 45″ – Top Edge Boards
  • 3 – 2×3 at 45″ – Top Frame & Lower Stretcher
  • 7 – 2×6 at 76″ – Top Boards

castleton dining table plans

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and side frames. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. The 2×4 upper frame pieces will be positioned 1-1/2″ down from the top edge of the legs. Secure in place using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The 2×3 lower frame pieces will be located on end with the back face flush with the inside face of the legs. Secure in place using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Position the center frame pieces and shown then secure in place using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

 castleton dining table plans_Leg Assemblies

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the truss supports. Cut 33 degree miters in each end as shown, then drill pocket holes noting that there will be a right and a left piece for each leg assembly. Secure to the frame pieces using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

 castleton dining table plans_Truss 1

castleton dining table plans_Truss 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the top edge boards. Drill pocket holes in one edge only of each of the shorter pieces and both edges of the longer pieces. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The top face of these boards will be flush with the top end of the legs.

 castleton dining table plans_Top Edge Boards

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the top frame boards and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown making sure they are snug against the top edge boards using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The inside edge will be flush with the inside face of the legs. Secure the center portion of the boards to the top edge boards using countersunk 2-1/2″ screws.

 castleton dining table plans_Top Frame

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the center top supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the top frame boards using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

 castleton dining table plans_Center Top Supports

Step Six

Cut the piece for the lower stretcher. Secure to the lower frame piece using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

castleton dining table plans_Stretcher

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the top boards. Secure to the upper frame boards and center support boards using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws through the underside.

 castleton dining table plans_Top Boards

Finish as desired.

The Castleton dining table plans will create one hefty piece of furniture! Wouldn’t it look fabulous with a dark stain? At any rate, this piece is perfect for those new to woodworking and would also be fabulous constructed from umber suitable to outdoor use!

Need help with the plans? Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




A Simple to Build Dining Table Just in Time for the Holidays!

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table

Need a dining table for holiday entertaining? This is the perfect table… The DIY plans to build an Easy Rustic Dining Table feature a planked top with stretchers at the lower portion of the legs to give it a sturdy, rustic look. The plans call for straight off-the-shelf boards and can be enhanced with metal plates found in the deck section of any home improvement retailer. I promise, this plan is easy enough to have completed in a hurry!

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Copy

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 3″ screws (lag screws can also be used for a more industrial look)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 6 – 2×4 at 6′
  • 7 – 2×6 at 8′
  • 2 – 4×4 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 4×4 at 28-1/2″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×4 at 36″ – Lower Side Stretcher
  • 2 – 2×4 at 29″ – Shorter Aprons
  • 2 – 2×4 at 73″ – Long Aprons
  • 3 – 2×4 at 32″ – Center Supports
  • 1 – 2×4 at 80″ – Lower Stretcher
  • 7 – 2×6 at 84″ – Top

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

The notches in the legs and in the lower side stretcher are completely optional. If the notches are not used, the corresponding piece or pieces will rest on top and be secured with glue and 3″ screws.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. If cutting the notch in the lower edge, it will be cut using multiple cuts on a table saw or circular saw with the center portion chiseled away. This post shows how to cut notches easily with a table saw!

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the lower side stretcher. Cut the notch, if desired, and secure the piece to the legs using glue and countersunk 3″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Lower Side Stretchers 1

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Lower Side Stretchers 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the shorter aprons. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the shorter aprons to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Position the aprons 1/2″ back from the outside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Shorter Aprons

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the long aprons and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the aprons to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Position the aprons 1/2″ back from the outside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Long Aprons

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the center supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the long apron using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Center Supports

Step Six

Cut the piece for the lower stretcher. Secure the stretcher to the lower side stretcher using glue and countersunk 3″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Lower Stretcher

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the top. The ends of the top planks will overhang by 2″ while the sides of the outermost planks will overhang by 1-1/4″. Secure the top planks in place using glue and countersunk 3″ screws through the top boards into the side aprons and the center supports.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Top

Finish as desired.

This table can be completed in a couple of days, even with finishing! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build an Easy Rustic Dining Table? Leave a comment below!




A Fabulous Island for the Kitchen

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island

A kitchen island has become a staple in most kitchens. The island is a great place to prep food while visiting with guest, and also adds extra storage. The DIY plans to build a Carey Kitchen Island feature four drawers on each side (for a total of eight drawers!), deep shelves that are open on both sides, and a cubby in between the drawers and shelves for storing your best wine! The island is also raised off of the floor (bun feet would be fabulous!) and is also counter height, with decorative trim under the top. This is a super-easy build and will look fabulous in any style with any finish!

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-1/2″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 8 sets of 14″ drawer slides (the ball-bearing type that mounts on the sides of the drawer boxes)
  • 8 cabinet pulls
  • 4 – 4″ furniture feet with mounting plates
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 4 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood
  • 2 pieces of trim at 8′ each

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 30″ x 31-1/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 30″ x 43-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 30″ x 30-1/2″ – Wine Bottle Dividers
  • 5 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 30″ – Wine Bottle Shelves
  • 2 – 1×3 at 16-5/8″ – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×3 at 31-3/8″ – Upper Stretchers
  • 6 – 1×2 at 16-5/8″ – Drawer Stretchers
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 21-3/8″ x 30″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 33″ x 48″ – Top
  • Trim (under the top) cut to fit
  • 12 – 3/4″ plywood at 5″ x 12-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 12 – 3/4″ plywood at 5″ x 16-1/8″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 7″ x 12-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 7″ x 16-1/8″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 8 – 1/4″ plywood at 13″ x 15-1/8″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-3/4″ x 16-3/8″ – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-1/2″ x 16-3/8″ – Drawer Fronts

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each side edge of the bottom. Secure the bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Sides & Bottom

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the wine holder dividers and shelves. Drill pocket holes in the lower edges of the dividers. Mark the position on the dividers (the side opposite of the pocket holes) by drawing a pencil line the entire length of each divider. Secure the wine holder shelves to one of the dividers (with the pocket holes facing out) using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Attach the other divider to the opposite side of the shelves using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails aligning the shelves with the pencil lines.

Secure the wine holder assembly to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Wine Bottle Holder 1

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Wine Bottle Holder 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers, noting that the stretchers that will be secured over the drawers will be shorter than the stretchers over the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end then secure to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Upper Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the drawer stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the side and divider as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Stretchers

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each side edge. Secure the shelves to the side and divider as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Shelves

Step Six

Install the feet on the bottom of the island according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Feet

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the top. Position the top so that it hangs over all sides by 1-1/2″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Top

Step Eight

Cut the trim to fit under the top. There are no dimensions given because it will depend on the style of trim chosen. Decorative trim such as carved moulding or narrow crown moulding (also called “bed moulding”) can be used. Secure the moulding under the top using 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Trim

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Cut a 1/4″ deep by 1/4″ wide groove in the bottom of each drawer box side, as well as the front and back. Pocket holes will be drilled in each end of the sides on the opposite side of the groove. Secure the drawer sides to the drawer back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Drawer Box 1

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Drawer Box 2

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. The pieces may have to be trimmed to fit – this happens to me all the time! Slide the pieces in the grooves on the sides and back, then align the front. Secure the drawer front using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Drawer Box 3

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Drawer Box 4

Step Eleven

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating the slides 3/4″ back from the front edge of the sides and dividers.

Step Twelve

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Drawer Fronts 1

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Drawer Fronts 2

Finish as desired, and install the cabinet pulls.

The top of this fabulous kitchen island can be left as is or it can be made “fancier” with the addition of tile or laminate. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Carey Kitchen Island? Leave a comment below!




Build the Cosmo Dresser

Add These DIY Three-Drawer Dresser Plans to Your Organizational To-Do List!

The new year is sneaking up quickly and for me, it will mean making a better effort to get organized! These DIY three-drawer dresser plans will fit the bill and keep my stuff neatly put away! Featuring a narrow profile, tapered legs with a bevel detail on the outside edge, as well as an angle cut at the front edges of the top, this dresser will quickly become a classic piece of furniture!

diy three drawer dresser plans_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 3 sets of drawer slides (shortened to 11-1/2″)
  • 3 cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 4 – 1×8 at 6′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 full sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 31-3/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 1×2 at 11″ – Side Frames
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11″ x 26-1/4″ – Side Panels
  • 6 – 1×2 at 36″ – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 26-1/4″ x 36″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 40″ – Top
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 33-1/2″ – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1×8 at 10″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1×8 at 35″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 8″ x 35-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts

diy three drawer dresser plans

Notes:

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

 

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut a 45 degree bevel in one edge of each piece at 27-3/4″ long. Cut the taper in the lower edge of each piece using a jigsaw or a tapering jig on the table saw. The tapers will face to the inside of the dresser while the beveled edges will face to the outside edge. Keep in mind there will be two legs with the bevel on the right and two legs with the bevel on the left.

 diy three-drawer dresser plans_Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the side frame and panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Secure the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Orient the pocket holes in the frame pieces so they face away from the panels. Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

diy three-drawer dresser plans_Sides

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the back frame, front stretchers, and back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces and stretchers, as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the frame pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Orient the pocket holes in the frame pieces so they face away from the panels. Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the stretchers to the front legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 diy three-drawer dresser plans_Back

diy three-drawer dresser plans_Front Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece for the top. Cut a 45 degree bevel in each corner of the front edge making it 1/4″ deep. The front and sides will overhang by 1/2″. Secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

 diy three-drawer dresser plans_Top

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Use a hacksaw to shorten the drawer slides. For a quick tutorial, click here. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.  For an easy tutorial on installing drawer slides, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

 diy three-drawer dresser plans_Drawer BS

diy three-drawer dresser plans_Drawer FB

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

 diy three-drawer dresser plans_Drawer Fronts

Finish as desired!

These DIY three-drawer dresser plans are perfect for the beginner! Trust me, these plans are easy and you cannot go wrong but if you get stuck, let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc{dot} com!