Kibbles ‘n Bits® and a Super-Cool Container to Store Pet Food

Pet Food Storage with Kibbles ‘n Bits®

This is a sponsored post written by me on behalf of Kibbles ‘n Bits® and Dollar General for IZEA. All opinions are 100% mine.

I have two dogs… Pokey usually has a silly grin and Jaxi is a sweet dog with pretty green eyes. They frequently “help” with DIY projects like picking up any scraps of wood that I set aside and are great companions. I really want to give them the best because they deserve it so I made a pet food storage container to fill with Kibbles ‘n Bits® out of an old metal ammunition box.

Speaking of Kibbles ‘n Bits® dry food products, they are sold at Dollar General and are 100% complete and balanced nutrition, plus they come in a variety of flavors. The nutritional needs of Pokey and Jaxi are very important to me and those needs can be met with Kibbles ‘n Bits® because it is packed with antioxidants, and 23 essential vitamins and minerals!

undefined

Dog owners know it is not easy to find pet food that the dogs, in my case Pokey, will like that is both nutritional and affordable. There are great savings available at Dollar General with available digital coupon offers – save $1 when you buy any bag of Kibbles ‘n Bits® at 3lbs. or larger, or save $2 when you buy any bag of Kibbles ‘n Bits® 13lbs. or larger!

I had a few old metal ammunition boxes around that would make great pet food storage. They seal well keeping the food dry, and the neighborhood critters (raccoons and possums) cannot get into it!

I applied a coat of rusty metal primer on the outside of the box only. Once the primer was dry, I spray painted the box in a color called “Gunmetal”. I dressed up the box a bit with the word “Food” that I cut from vinyl.

Now Jaxi and Pokey have an ultra-cool container that their food is stored in – well, all they really care about what is inside, and so do I! Download the Dollar General coupons here and create your own pet food storage container to fill with Kibbles ‘n Bits®!

Visit Sponsors Site




Build a Marconi Media Console

Free Plans to Build a Marconi Media Console

If I needed a new media console,I would definitely add the free plans to build a Marconi media console to my list! I love the modular look and clean lines! This would be so fabulous painted in a bright color with stenciled doors or equally awesome in a weathered finish!

free plans to build a marconi media console_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 3 sets of non-mortise hinges
  • 3 cabinet pulls
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Finishing supplies

Lumber:

  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood

 Cut List:

  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 20” – Sides & Middle Divider
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-3/4” – Dividers
  • 8 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 18-1/2” – Shelf Supports
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 20” – Shelves
  • 8 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 13-1/2” – Kick Plates
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x  13-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x  27-3/4” – Stretchers
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x  18-1/2” – Cleats
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 20” – Tops
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 29-1/4” – Tops
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 14-1/2” x 14-3/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 14-3/4” x 28-3/4” – Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 13-1/4” – Doors

free plans to build a marconi media console

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the sides, dividers, and shelf supports. Secure the shelf supports to the bottom of each piece (and both sides of each taller divider as well as the middle divider) then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Allow ¾” on each side of the supports for the kick plates.

free plans to build a marconi media console_Sides & Supports 

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Secure to the top of the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

free plans to build a marconi media console_Shelves 

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the kick plates. Secure to both the front and the back using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

free plans to build a marconi media console_Kick Plates

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

free plans to build a marconi media console_Stretchers

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the cleats. Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

free plans to build a marconi media console_Cleats 

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the tops. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

free plans to build a marconi media console_Tops 

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the backs. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

free plans to build a marconi media console_Backs 

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then install the cabinet pulls.

free plans to build a marconi media console_Doors

Finish as desired!

The free plans to build a Marconi media console are great for a beginner… They are easy to construct and will help you complete a fabulous piece of furniture in no time! Have a request for a plan? Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com or designsbystudioc {at} gmail {dot} com. I would love to create a plan for you!

#DIY #Woodworking #Build




How to Make a Wall Hook Organizer with Scrap Plywood

The folks at Purebond Plywood posted a picture of a wall hook organizer made with scrap plywood on their Facebook page. They asked if anyone wanted to create instructions on how to make it and I jumped at the chance – probably jumped a little too high… I’m a Purebond stalker, what can I say?

I have tons and tons of Purebond plywood scraps laying around. Yes, I’ve been compared to a “hoarder” but only in the creative sense. I’m always saying I might need that small scrap of wood! Anyhoo, Purebond is the best plywood with its gorgeous grain and the best part being that it is formaldehyde free! The plywood is available in a wide variety of species at your local Home Depot. Yay!

Scrap Wood Wall Organizer
Scrap Wood Wall Organizer

Today, I’ll share the steps I used to create this awesome wall organizer!

Materials:

Scraps of plywood –

  • One for the base (mine measures 17-1/4″ square)
  • Three squares for the hooks (mine measure 5-1/2″ square and are actually scraps of pine 1×6)
  • Assorted species of plywood (I used Birch, Oak, and Walnut)
  • Three metal hooks

Secure the hook base pieces to the plywood base using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Sand the entire base assembly (especially the edges). I used 60 grit sandpaper, then 100 grit, then 220 grit in order to make everything as smooth as possible.

SANY1782

Cut the strips to fit above the hook bases. I got lucky and was able to cut my pieces to length without having to rip them on the tablesaw. Once I was happy with the arrangement, I numbered the bottom of each piece so I could put them back in order!

 SANY1783  SANY1784

Stain the entire base assembly and let dry. (I used Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain in Kona.)

 SANY1785

Position the strips using glue to secure, then place a board over the top and clamp them down. This will make sure the strips make contact with the surface so the glue can dry.

SANY1786

Once the glue was dry, I sealed everything with three coats of polyurethane then attached the hooks. I did not stain the strips – I liked the “natural” look!

Beautiful!! I think this would look fabulous in the bathroom holding towels… Or maybe by the door for backpacks and coats… Or maybe…?




Plans for a Wood Low-Slung Chair Perfect for Relaxing

Build a Low-Slung Chair

With Fall just around the corner, I have created the perfect plans to build a low slung chair for relaxing by the fire pit, outdoor movie night, or even as seating for a game room! If you are nervous about attempting to build a chair, don’t be… Chairs are one of the easiest pieces of furniture to construct and once you build your first one, you will be addicted – like me! The chair is designed to be constructed of straight off-the-shelf lumber. If it is going to be used and left outdoors, make sure the lumber is either chemically treated, sealed with spar varnish, or painted with exterior paint. This way the chair will last for many relaxing moments by the fire! A basic knowledge of sewing a straight line is helpful to construct pillows for the seat and back. In fact, using outdoor fabric for the covers, and stuffing made using recycled plastic bags would be the perfect cushioning! (See my post How to Make Outdoor Cushions Using Recycled Plastic Bags.) If you are a beginner, don’t be afraid to jump right in! I can always be contacted at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com and will be happy to walk you through the build! Let me know – I’m here to help!

build low slung chair_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies

Lumber:

  • 2 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 4×4 post at 8’**

Cut List:

  • 2 – 4×4 posts at 10″ – Front Legs
  • 2 – 4×4 posts at 10-3/4″ – Lower Back Legs
  • 2 – 4×4 at 15″ – Upper Back Legs
  • 3 – 2×4 at 24″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×4 at 22″ – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 26-1/2″ x 30″ – Seat
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 24″ – Back

 build low slung chair

** 2 – 2x4s glued and screwed together face to face will also work. If using this method, the side stretchers will have to be lengthened by 1″.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the front legs and stretcher. Set the pocket hole jig for drilling into 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes at each end of the stretcher. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Position the stretcher so that the front face is set back 1/4″ from the front face of the legs.

wood chair plans - low slung_Front Frame

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower back legs. Cut a 5 degree angle in the lower edge of the upper back leg. Because the post is wider than a regular pocket hole jig allows for, drill pocket holes in each side of the angled portion of the legs (see the drawings). This will make the back extra sturdy so it doesn’t come apart when it is leaned on! Secure the upper and lower legs to each other using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

wood chair plans - low slung_Back Legs 1

wood chair plans - low slung_Back Legs 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. 

wood chair plans - low slung_Back Frame

Step Four

Cut the pieces  for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Position the stretchers so that the outside face is 1/4″ back from the outside face of the legs.

wood chair plans - low slung_Side Stretchers

Step Five

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw or a bandsaw, then attach to the seat frame using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. 

wood chair plans - low slung_Seat 1

wood chair plans - low slung_Seat 2

Step Six

Cut the piece for the back. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Insert the piece into the upper back on top of the seat then secure using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The front face of the back will be flush with the front face of the back legs. 

wood chair plans - low slung_Chair Back

Finish as desired. Sew a couple of pillows for the seat and back, and voila!! Awesome seating! Build one or build several… These plans to build a low-slung chair are just the ticket for indoor or outdoor use! I plan on building a few for myself! Any questions? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




A Cute and Curvy Dresser That Is Easy to Build!

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser

The curves on this simple dresser are so elegantly cute! The DIY plans to build a Celia Dresser feature curved lower edges on the front and sides, curved legs, and three drawers. I’ve included all of the templates to make cutting the curves easy-peasy! This project can be completed in a weekend.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 3 sets of 18″ drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×4 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×4 at 31-7/16″ – Legs
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 27-5/16″ – Sides
  • 1 – 1×6 at 29″ – Lower Front Apron
  • 5 – 1×2 at 29″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 21-1/2″ x 33″ – Top
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 23-7/16″ x 30-1/2″ – Back
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 18″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 26-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 3 – 1/4″ plywood at 17″ x 27″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 3 – 1×6 at 28-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces to length for the legs. Print the templates, align the registration marks and tape the sheets together. Cut along the lines with scissors, and position the template on the 2×4 with temporary spray adhesive. Cut the leg using a jigsaw or bandsaw.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the sides. Print the templates, align the registration marks and tape the sheets together. Cut along the lines with scissors, and position the template on the lower 5-1/2″ of the sides. Cut the curves using a jigsaw or bandsaw.

With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each long side edge. Secure the sides to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside faces of the panels will be flush with the inside faces of the legs. The curves on the lower part of the legs will face out!

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Sides

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the back stretchers to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back faces of the stretchers will be flush with the outside faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Back Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece to length for the lower front apron. Print the templates, align the registration marks and tape the sheets together. Cut along the lines with scissors, and position the template on the 1×6 with temporary spray adhesive. Cut the apron using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes in each side edge, and secure the piece to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front face of the apron will be flush with the front faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Front Apron 2

Step Five

Secure the front stretchers to the legs as shown in the drawing.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Front Stretchers

Step Six

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang the sides and front by 1/2″. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Top

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Back

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box sides on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Drawer Box 1

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Drawer Box 2

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight. 

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Drawer Box 3

Step Ten

Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box sides to the drawer box front using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them 3/4″ back from the front face of the legs. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Drawer Box 4

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Celia Dresser_Drawer Fronts

Finish as desired.

Not only can this piece be used as a dresser (for clothes) but it can be used as storage in a large bathroom, dining room, or entryway! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Celia Dresser? Leave a comment below!




Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet

Here is another customizable plan for a file cabinet. The depth should stay the same but the length can be increased to fit your needs! Click on the drawings to enlarge them!

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet

Materials:

  • One sheet of 3/4″ plywood (I used Purebond plywood)
  • Edge banding to match the 3/4″ plywood
  • One half sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • One half sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • Two – 1/8″ x 1/2″ x 36″ strips of aluminum
  • Four 1/4″ nylon spacers
  • Four 1″ screws to mount the aluminum
  • Four sets of 14″ drawer slides (ball bearing 3/4 extension)
  • Four drawer handles

Tools:

  • Table saw, jigsaw or circular saw
  • Drill
  • Kreg jig and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • Brad nailer and 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Square and pencil

Cut List:

  • Two – 3/4″ plywood @ 15″ x 48″ – Sides
  • One – 3/4″ plywood @ 18″ x 48″ – Back
  • One – 3/4″ plywood @ 14-1/4″ x 16-1/2″ – Bottom
  • One – 3/4″ plywood @ 4-7/8″ x 16-1/2″ – Kick Plate
  • Two – 3/4″ plywood @ 2-1/2″ x 16-1/2″ – Interior Supports
  • Two – 3/4″ plywood @ 6-1/2″ x 17-3/4″ – Smaller Drawer Fronts
  • Two – 3/4″ plywood @ 15-1/4″ x 17-3/4″ – Larger Drawer Fronts
  • Four – 1/2″ plywood @ 5-1/2″ x 15-1/4″ – Smaller Drawer Boxes
  • Four – 1/2″ plywood @ 5-1/2″ x 13″ – Smaller Drawer Boxes
  • Four – 1/2″ plywood @ 13″ x 15-1/4″ – Larger Drawer Boxes
  • Four – 1/2″ plywood @ 13″ x 13″ – Larger Drawer Boxes
  • Four – 1/4″ plywood @ 14″ x 15-1/4″ – Drawer Bottoms

Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in the top of the sides, as well as one long edge at the back. Also drill pocket holes in the top edge of the back. Remember, there will be a right and left! Attach the sides to the back using glue and pocket hole screws.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_Back

Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes in the edges to attach the bottom to the sides and back. Use glue and pocket hole screws to secure the bottom to the sides and back as shown.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_Bottom

Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end of this piece and attach to the sides of the cabinet. The top of the kick plate will be flush with the top face of the bottom piece.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_Kick Plate

Cut the piece for the top. Attach the top to the sides and back using glue and pocket hole screws through the pocket holes at the top of the sides and back into the top.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_Top

Cut the pieces for the inner supports. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides as shown with glue and pocket hole screws.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_Interior Supports

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. They can be assembled using glue with pocket holes (for 1/2″ material), brad nails, or countersunk screws. I used glue and brad nails to assemble the drawers for my file cabinet. Attach the bottom using glue and brad nails.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_Drawer Boxes

Attach the drawer hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The dimensions shown on the drawing are to the bottom of the smaller upper drawers, and the middle of the larger lower drawers.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_Drawer Slide Placement

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8″ gap between the fronts to allow the drawers to freely open and close. For an easy tutorial on how to attach the fronts, click here.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_Drawer Fronts

To attach the aluminum strips for the file folders, cut the strips into four 13″ long pieces. Pre-drill a hole in each end of the strip and attach the strips with the 1″ pan head screws each through a spacer into the larger drawer boxes.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_SANY1257

 

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_SANY1259

 Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_SANY1260 

** Please note – these plans are designed and created by me. They are not to be sold without express written consent from me. They can be shared on any site as long as they are credited back to me!




An Alternative to Metal Drawer Slides

How to Make Drawer Slides Using Wood

I have to be honest, this is the first time I’ve tried this. I tend to get nervous when trying something new… I don’t want to make mistakes and waste material! I am thrilled to report that this project went very smoothly and turned out great! So now I will share with you how to make drawer slides using wood!

how to make drawer slides_SANY2756 copy

As much as I love using metal drawer slides, they were just not in the budget for this project. Since this technique worked so well for me, I will probably use it in most of my future projects and incorporate this technique in my plans.

Normally when I draw drawer boxes, the last pieces to be attached are the box front and back. I decided to change it up a bit by attaching the front and back first and the sides last. Before I attached the sides, I cut a 1/2″ deep by 7/8″ wide dado in the box sides, then attached a 3/4″ square strip of material inside the cabinet. The drawers rest on these runners and with a coat of paste wax, slide very smoothly.

how to make drawer slides SANY2737

Here’s how it is done:

I used the table saw to cut the dado (a router can also be used). I set the rip fence 3″ from the blade, and the blade height at 1/2″ so it wouldn’t cut all the way through the material. I removed the splitter so I could run the piece through.

how to make drawer slides SANY2736

I made the first “cut” then moved the rip fence in 1/8″ increments seven times (7/8″).

how to make drawer slides SANY2738

Any slivers left over were chiseled out.

how to make drawer slides SANY2739

how to make drawer slides SANY2740

I then cut strips of 3/4″ material at 3/4″  wide. I cut them a tiny bit shorter than the length of the drawer box sides, then drilled three countersunk holes in each piece.

how to make drawer slides SANY2753

I had previously marked the position of the wood slides but due to an, um “error”, I had to change the position of the slides. The goal is to place the slides so that the top of the dado rests on them and the drawer bottom clears the lower stretcher by at least 1/8″.

how to make drawer slides SANY2754

I used a tape measure to make sure the slides were level and an equal distance from the bottom of the sides.

how to make drawer slides SANY2755

The drawer fits perfectly! I am so excited!

how to make drawer slides SANY2756

Now that I’ve shared how to make drawer slides will you make your own? I really think I will!

 




A Roomy Chest with a Greek Key Design

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest

Previously, I posted plans to build a Greek Key Dresser. This chest would be the perfect companion! The DIY plans to build a Greek Key Chest feature two large and roomy drawers with a detailed Greek Key design on each drawer front. This chest would be the perfect place to store bulky sweaters or blankets, and would work well for storing china dinnerware as well as linens!

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 2 sets of 18″ Drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×6 at 4′
  • 4 – 1×12 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 5 – 1/4″ x 1″ Lattice strips at 8′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 29-1/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 29-1/4″ x 42-1/2″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 42-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 5-1/2″ – Feet
  • 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 4-3/4″ – Feet
  • 2 – 1×2 at 9″ – Base Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 33″ – Base Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18-1/2″ – Base Frame Supports
  • 2 – 1×2 at 42-1/2″ – Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 44″ – Top
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 40″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 4 – 1×12 at 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1×12 at 41-1/2″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-7/16″ x 42-1/4″ – Drawer Fronts
  • 4 – 1/4″ x 1″ lattice strips at 17-5/8″ – Greek Key Design
  • 2 – 1/4″ x 1″ lattice strips at 17″ – Greek Key Design
  • 4 – 1/4″ x 1″ lattice strips at 8″ – Greek Key Design
  • 8 – 1/4″ x 1″ lattice strips at 8-7/16″ – Greek Key Design
  • 8 – 1/4″ x 1″ lattice strips at 7-1/2″ – Greek Key Design
  • 16 – 1/4″ x 1″ lattice strips at 5″ – Greek Key Design
  • 16 – 1/4″ x 1″ lattice strips at 2″ – Greek Key Design

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. With the pocket holes jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each side edge of the back piece. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Sides & Back

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the bottom. Drill pocket holes in each side edge as well as the back edge of the piece. Secure the bottom piece to the sides and back. The bottom will be 3/4″ shorter than the sides to allow for the drawer front.

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Bottom

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the base feet. There will be four right pieces and four left pieces, two of each length. Cut an arc in each piece using a jigsaw or a bandsaw maintaining the dimensions as shown in the drawing. Drill a pocket hole in the top edge of each foot. Assemble the feet in an L shape as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Feet 1 DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Feet 2

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the base frame and supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece as well as in one long edge of each piece (except for ONE of the longer framing pieces which will be the front of the base) to secure the base to the bottom of the cabinet (the pocket holes are NOT shown in the drawings). Assemble the base frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the base frame to the cabinet bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Base 1

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Base 2

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. The stretchers will be secured to the sides of the cabinet and located 1″ back from the front edge of the sides to allow for the drawer fronts.

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Front Stretchers

Step Six

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the sides, back, and upper stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the top.

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Top

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Drawer FB

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. The Greek Key design will be cut and assembled from pieces of the lattice strips. It may be easier to mark the position of the strips on the drawer front pieces prior to securing the design. Follow each drawing and position the pieces as shown. Secure the pieces using glue (1/2″ brad nails may be used, if desired).

Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Drawer Key 3

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Drawer Key 2

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Drawer Key 1

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Drawer Fronts

Finish as desired.

The chest would be a fabulous addition to any room – as a media chest, as toy storage in a kid’s room, or even in a bathroom to store towels and toiletries. The DIY plans to build a Greek Key Chest are easy to follow but if you have any questions, leave a comment below!




Build an Awesome Container for Storing Recyclables!

How to Build a Recycle Bin

I like to recycle, however, a 5 gallon bucket with a lid just did not fit in with my kitchen. I wanted something a bit more cool and at least with a little more style! I came up with this idea and used 1/2″ plywood – in fact, the plywood was a bonus! I special-ordered a couple of sheets of walnut plywood for another project and they were sheathed in two pieces of this plywood! How awesome!! So with these plans, you can build a recycle bin to suit your needs and fit your decor without it sticking out like a sore thumb!

how to build a recycle bin

how to build a recycle bin

Materials:

  • 1/2″ plywood
  • Wood glue
  • Brad nailer and 3/4″ brad nails
  • Saw of your choice
  • Square & Pencil
  • One set of hinges
  • One cabinet pull
  • Paint or Stain
  • Stencils and acrylic craft paint

Cut List

  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 7-5/8″ x 11-3/4″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 7-5/8″ x 24″ – Sides
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 12-3/4″ x 24″ – Front & Back
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 2-1/2″ x 11-3/4″ – Inside Hinge Support
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 8-5/8″ x 12-3/4″ – Top
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 2-1/2″ x 12-3/4″ – Top Hinge Support

 

1. Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1″ brad nails.

how to build a recycle bin_Sides & Bottom

2. Cut the pieces for the front and back. Attach to the sides and bottom with glue and 1″ brad nails.

how to build a recycle bin_Front & Back

3. Since the plywood is thin, the screws for the hinges would go right through the wood so add a 2-1/2″ x 11-3/4″ piece to the inside back. Use glue and clamp until dry.

how to build a recycle bin_Hinge Piece Inner

4. Cut the piece for the top and the top hinge support. Position the top hinge support then secure using glue and 3/4″ brad nails. Install the hinges on the cabinet, then on the lid. Add a cabinet pull if desired.

how to build a recycle bin_Hinge Piece Top

Finish as desired and stencil something cool on it! I stenciled the word RECYCLE on the front. It is so easy to build a recycle bin – the plans are perfect for all skill levels but if you get stuck, contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com and I would be happy to walk you through it!

#furnitureplans #build #woodworkingplans #diy

 




A Nifty Counter Height Table with Storage

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table

This is one of those tables that can serve so many purposes – as extra seating for holiday entertaining or a dinner party, as a craft table, or even as a kitchen island! The DIY plans to build a Storage Counter Height Table feature a square top, 37-1/2″ height, and built-in storage on the side! This is a great project for beginners and can be completed in a weekend.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 5 – 1×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 4×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 4×4 at 36-3/4″ – Legs
  • 3 – 1×4 at 29″ – Aprons
  • 2 – 1×4 at 36-3/4″ – Storage Sides/Legs
  • 5 – 1×4 at 34-1/2″ – Storage Shelves
  • 1 – 1×4 at 34-1/2″ – Top Support
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 36-1/4″ x 36-1/2″ – Storage Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 36″ x 36″ – Top

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the 4×4 legs and the aprons. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of each apron piece. Secure one of the apron pieces to the 4×4 legs as shown using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Side

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the storage sides/legs. Secure the remaining aprons to the storage sides/legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, treating each piece as a left and a right. Secure the apron/side assemblies to the 4×4 legs using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_FB Legs

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the storage shelves and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the shelves to the storage sides/legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Storage Shelves

Step Four

Cut the piece for the top support and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the support to the aprons as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Top Support

Step Five

Cut the piece for the storage back. position the piece on the back of the storage shelves between the aprons. Secure the piece using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the back into each of the shelves.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Storage Back

Step Six

Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges prior to securing the top on the frame. The top will be flush with the frame on all sides. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Top

Finish as desired.

I imagine this table in a really dark finish but of course, that is my preference with everything, ha ha! There are so many neat ways to finish it including wallpaper on the storage back, the glue-resist technique on the top, or a high-gloss painted finish! Leave a comment below if there are any questions about the DIY plans to build a Storage Counter Height Table!