DIY Bandengan Side Table Plans and Step by Step Instructions
This table has an interesting look to it… There are decorative grooves cut in the legs and the aprons, all made with a table saw. The plans to build the Bandengan side table are really easy (even with the grooves) and I had a lot of fun building it. The hard part is trying to figure out how I want to finish it!
Materials:
- 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws (<– affiliate link!)
- 1-1/4″ brad nails
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
- Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
Lumber:
- 3 – 1×2 at 8′ (or 1 – 1×6 ripped to 1-1/2″ wide)
- 1 – 2×2 at 8′ (or 1 – 2×4 at 4′ ripped in half)
- 1 – 2′ x 2′ piece of 3/4″ plywood
Cut List:
- 4 – 2×2 at 19-3/4″ – Legs
- 8 – 1×2 at 17″ – Stretchers
- 20 – 1×2 at 3-1/2″ – Stretchers
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 18″ – Top
- 2 – 1×2 at 18″ – Top Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 21″ – Top Trim
Click on the drawings for a larger view!
Step One
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle in the lower portion of the legs using a jigsaw or by using a miter saw. The decorative grooves are cut on the table saw. Remove the blade guard and the splitter from the saw. Lower the blade to 1/2″ from the table and set the rip fence to 4″ from the blade. Make a pass with each table leg on one face opposite the angle, then make another pass on the adjoining face. The grooves will face to the outside of the leg and the angle will face in. There will be a pair of “rights” and a pair of “lefts”.
Step Two
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Cut the grooves in one edge of each stretcher by setting the rip fence to 1/4″ from the blade (the depth of the blade should still be set at 1/2″ with the guard and the splitter removed) and make a pass with each piece. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end.
Cut the shorter vertical pieces for the stretchers. Mark the position for the pieces on the stretchers. Secure the pieces to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails orienting the pocket holes on the stretchers so they face away from the center. This way, they won’t have to be filled!
Step Three
Secure the stretcher assemblies to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Step Four
Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the top, as well as each end of the shorter trim pieces. Secure the shorter trim pieces first using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then secure the longer trip pieces.
The top will overhang the frame by 1/2″ on all sides. Position the top, then secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Finish as desired!
How do you think I should finish the table I built from the plans to build a Bandengan side table? A stained top and painted base? All paint? Let me know by leaving a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!
Originally posted 2014-03-12 08:00:36.
5 Comments
I think staining the top, doing the outside square a dark color and a light color for the inset. Then I would go ahead and dark stain the lower part as well, but stain the stretchers the same light color as the inset.
That is a really awesome idea! Thank you so much for the suggestion and for stopping by!
In the photo the top outside square looks more like 1x3s (or 1×4) but neither shows in the lumber or cut list. Really nice side table that can be sized to fit anyone’s particular needs.
Hi, Jake! That is true, they are wider. I didn’t have any larger pieces of scrap birch plywood for the center, and didn’t want to buy any more plywood – yet! This project, for me, was built by raiding the scrap pile. The 2×2 and 1×2 pieces are ripped from 2×6 pieces I found in the cull bin at Home Depot last summer! The 2x6s have the prettiest, clear grain!
Pingback: Bandengan Side Table – Free Woodworking Plan.com