How to Make a Work Table Out of a Base Cabinet

Transform a Stock Kitchen Cabinet into a Moveable Work Surface

I found a really nice base cabinet like the kind that goes in a kitchen. At first, I thought about putting it in the laundry room along with a few other cabinets I already have for tool storage. After some thought, I realized I could use a large work surface indoors to cut out sewing patterns and fabric and work on other projects like my resin boards. So, I’ve decided to make a work table out of the base cabinet and use it in my sewing and craft area!

The cabinet has a wide front apron to accommodate a farmhouse sink. I decided to utilize the space by adding a drawer using part of the apron as the drawer front and including a drop-leaf at the back to create a versatile work area for sewing, crafting, and other projects.

This DIY work table became a “use what I already have” project and I had nearly everything I needed to make it come to life!

Materials:

• 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
• 1-1/2″ screws
• 2-1/2″ screws
• 4″ casters, optional (<– affiliate link!)
• Edge banding for the drawer front, optional
• Drop-leaf hardware (mine are from D.Lawless Hardware)
• Hinges for the drop-leaf (I used a piano hinge cut in half)
• One set of 20″ drawer slides (<– affiliate link!)
• Drawer pulls or handles
• Wood glue
• Sandpaper for the top (80, 120, 220 grits)
• Finishing supplies for the top and drop-leaf (I used peel-and-stick wallpaper)

Lumber:

• 3 – 1×2 at 8′ for the top edging
• 1 – 1×2 at 3′ for the cabinet back to support the drop leaf hardware
• Scraps of 2×4 for the casters
• 1 – 1×3 at 4′ to use as spacers for the drawer slides
• 1×6 for the drawer box, or the size needed to match the desired depth of the drawer
• 1/4″ plywood for the back and the drawer bottom
• 3/4″ plywood for the top and the leaf

This is a really easy project! With a pre-made cabinet, most of the work is already done. The hardest part is determining the size of the top, and mine ends up measuring 48″ long x 40″ deep when the drop-leaf is up.

Install the Casters

If using casters, cut pieces of a 2×4 to fit under the bottom of the cabinet behind the kick plate and at the corner where the sides and back meet. Install the casters according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Remove the Apron and Cut  it Apart

Remove the front apron. The front apron in the cabinet I am using was installed with pocket hole screws. I removed the screws, then removed the apron.

I applied strips of masking tape where I was going to make the cuts so that the saw blade didn’t chip the laminate. I ripped two strips off of the apron – one strip at the top, and one at the bottom each measuring 1-1/2″ wide. I applied edge banding to cover the raw edges.

I then used the miter saw to cut 1/8″ off each end of the remaining apron piece so that it would move freely in the opening once the drawer was installed. The edge banding was applied to all four sides.

Reinstall the Strips of the Apron

I reinstalled the strips cut off of the apron on the front of the cabinet with the existing pocket hole screws placing one at the top and the other at the bottom above the door divider.

Install the Drawer Slides to Measure for the Drawer Box

I cut the pieces of 1×3 to use as spacers for the drawer slides so they clear the face frame. I installed them using glue and 1-1/4″ countersunk screws.

Next, I installed the cabinet side drawer slides on the spacers then cut the pieces for the drawer sides from a 1×6. I installed the other half of the drawer slides on the1x6s.

I inserted the drawer box sides into the cabinet then measured the distance between them to cut the drawer box front and back. I also cut a 1/4″ wide by 3/8″ deep groove in the bottom of the drawer box pieces for the bottom. The drawer fits perfectly and slides easily!

Secure the Drawer Front

With the drawer box installed, I shimmed the drawer front in the opening and secured the front from the inside of the drawer box using 1-1/4″ screws.

Reinforce the Back

Because the back is made with 1/4″ MDF, it needed to be reinforced so I could mount the drop-leaf hardware to it. I added two layers of 1/4″ plywood to the back, as well as a piece of 3/4″ plywood to the inside.

Cut the Pieces for the Top and the Drop Leaf

I wanted the top to be big enough to cut out sewing patterns, so I added 12″ to the length side to side (48″), and determined the width of the top including the drop leaf to equal 40″ (the piece for the drop leaf measured 10″ wide).

Secure the top to the cabinet using 1-1/4″ to 1-1/2″ screws. My cabinet had pieces secured to the sides but they were located about 3/4″ below the top of the sides. I had to add spacers so that I could drill through the bottom of the existing pieces through the spacers into the bottom of the top piece. I wanted to make sure it was secure!

I used a piano hinge cut in half to attach the leaf to the top. This worked perfectly!

I added 1×2 edging around the sides and outer edges of the top and leaf. If you do this, make sure to chamfer the lower parts of the side trim so that the leaf folds easily and looks like a miter!

Installing the Drop Leaf Hardware

Drop leaf hardware is fickle (that’s the only way I can describe it) and if I got the leaf to lay flat when folded, it wasn’t flat when opened. I decided to go with a flat top and if the leaf sticks out a bit when folded, I would have to be OK with it. I can’t explain how to install it, but clicking on the link for the hardware in the Materials List will lead to a chart that shows installation dimensioning.

A level clamped to the top and to the drop leaf was helpful when securing the hardware!

Finishing the Top and the Leaf

Once everything was in place, I decided to add peel and stick wallpaper to the top and the leaf. I did this for two reasons: one, because I already had it on hand and two, because it provided a slick surface for cutting out sewing patterns.

The top and leaf can also be painted or stained – it’s just a matter of personal preference!

Add drawer pulls to the drawer and door as desired.

I’m really happy with the way this work table came out! It is tall enough for me, I have a place to stash sewing supplies and it keeps me from having to sit on the floor to cut out patterns!

Have questions about how to make a work table out of a base cabinet? Leave a comment below!