DIY Plans to Build a Sterling Dresser

A Dresser with Wide Divided Drawers

This dresser is perfect for any space and offers plenty of storage. The DIY plans to build a Sterling Dresser feature three large drawers with dividers inside. The base is open and can be finished in a contrasting color. This is a truly easy build and can be completed in a weekend.

Materials:

• 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws (<– affiliate link!)
• 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
• 1-1/4″ brad nails
• Edge banding
• 3 sets of 18″ Heavy Duty drawer slides
• Cabinet pulls
• Wood glue
• Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
• Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

• 3 – 1×2 at 8′
• 6 – 1×8 at 8′
• 3 – 1×10 at 6′
• 5 – 2×2 at 6′
• 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

• 4 – 2×2 at 8″ – Base Legs
• 4 – 2×2 at 17″ – Base Side Framing
• 4 – 2×2 at 53″ – Base Front & Back Stretchers
• 1 – 2×2 at 17″ – Base Center Support
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 27″ – Cabinet Sides
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 27″ x 54-1/2″ – Cabinet Back
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/4″ x 54-1/2″ – Cabinet Bottom
• 3 – 1×2 at 54-1/2″ – Stretchers
• 6 – 1×2 at 17″ – Stretchers
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 56″ – Top
• 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 52″ – Drawer Box Bottom
• 6 – 1×8 (ripped to 7″ wide) at 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
• 6 – 1×8 (ripped to 7″ wide) at 53-1/2″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
• 6 – 1×8 (ripped to 6-1/4″ wide) at 17-1/4″ – Drawer Box Dividers
• 2 – 1×10 (ripped to 8-5/8″ wide) at 54-1/4″ – Upper & Middle Drawer Front
• 1 – 1×10 (ripped to 8-1/2″ wide) at 54-1/4″ – Lower Drawer Front

 

Step One

Cut the pieces for the base legs and the base side framing. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Orient the pieces so that the pocket holes face up on the upper pieces and face down on the lower pieces.

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the base front and back stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Orient the pieces so that the pocket holes face up on the upper pieces and face down on the lower pieces.

Step Three

Cut the piece for the base center support and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the support to the upper front and back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Step Four

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the cabinet sides. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in the lower edge of the side pieces. Secure the sides to the base frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside face of the side will be flush with the outside face of the base.

Step Five

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the side and lower edges. Secure the back to the sides and the base using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside face of the back will be flush with the outside face of the base.

Step Six

Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure the bottom to the base between the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the longer and shorter stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the shorter stretchers to the longer stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the stretcher assembly to the inside of the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Note that the longer front stretcher is located 3/4″ back from the outside edge of the sides.

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the sides, stretchers, and back using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides.  Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step Ten

Using a router with a dado bit or multiple cuts with a table saw, cut a 3/8″ deep by 3/4″ wide dado in the two places indicated on the back side of the drawer box front and back. Make a test fit with a scrap piece of 1x material.

Secure the drawer box front and back to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Check out this easy tutorial on installing drawer slides. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts noting that the lower drawer front is 1/8″ narrower than the upper and middle drawer fronts.

Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides as well as between the drawer fronts– then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. This easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts will be helpful.

Finish as desired.

This piece can be used as media storage, in a dining room to store china and linens, or in a bathroom to store toiletries. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Sterling dresser? Leave a comment below!

Originally posted 2015-07-01 08:00:56.