Step by Step Instructions to Use Sawhorse Brackets
Sometimes, you just need an extra work table… I’m up to three tables now. Do I need that many? Well, yes! I like to multitask! Anyhow, I purchased a couple sets of sawhorse brackets to build a new table and with a few 2x4s, I spent less than $30. It would cost just as much to buy pre-made sawhorses (which are usually plastic) but since I am a tall girl, I needed to customize the height of the sawhorses so that I didn’t have to hunch over the table! So for me, spending a bit of time to build a sawhorse table with brackets was a win!
Materials:
- 2 sets of sawhorse brackets (<– affiliate link!)
- 4 – 2×4 at 8′
- Screws or nails
- 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws, optional
Step One – The Brackets
The package on the sawhorse brackets has a chart on the back showing what length to cut the legs for the height of the table. I went somewhere in between 30″ and 36″ (roughly 32″), so I cut my legs at 29-5/8″ long. Also, you’ll need to determine how wide the sawhorse legs will sit. For example, I am using an old 30″ door as the table so I wanted the cross pieces of the sawhorses to measure 30″.
Step Two – The Legs
The 2×4 pieces are inserted into the brackets, then fastened in place using nails. I didn’t have any nails on hand, so I used screws. Just remember this: screws will break and nails will bend. So if your table will have a heavy top, use nails in the sawhorse bracket legs!
Step Three – The Crosspiece
The cross pieces are then clamped in the bracket and fastened with screws or nails. I set the brackets 4″ in from each end of the cross pieces so that I didn’t trip over the legs every time I’m working at the table!
Step Four – Custom Supports
I added a “twist” to the sawhorse set up… I took the remaining piece of 2×4 and cut it in half. I then drilled pocket holes in each end of each piece and fastened them to the sawhorses using the 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. This will keep the sawhorses anchored together and make the table a bit more stable.
Step Five – The Top
I set the door on top and the table is the perfect height for me! The top can be secured to the frame using angle brackets for a permanent setup. I just laid the top on the frame so I could move the table as needed.
The brackets would also be an excellent choice to build a DIY sawhorse table with finished top that will be used in a dining room or outdoor patio. They could be spray painted for an extra touch of fabulous!
Have questions about how to build a sawhorse table with brackets? Leave a comment below!
Originally posted 2013-08-30 08:00:12.
4 Comments
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This is both a question & an suggestion for an “upgrade option”,In addition to Your cross piece Upgrade (great suggestion,btw..But I would have looked for a different way to attach instead of pocket screws.Although pocket screws are awesome if the brackets never get broken down to store,Something that is easily unlocked the way a leaf in an extendable table but cheaper then those specialty locks sold at custom woodworking supply’s & easier to find locally (Maybe sash locks for wooden windows?) That way with the flip of the lock,The cross-members can be removed,The saw horses folded up & the entire system stored flat against a shed (or garage) wall,In a basement,garage rafters or even under a bed for those who live in a Condo or Townhouse. I bought the same type of bracket set-up on clearance @ Big Lots,But My brackets didn’t offer even a chart.So thank You for posting a picture,So I can save it & reference it later.What angle did You cut the bottom of the legs at? (The part that will sit on the pavement or floor) I have the same problem as You,when it comes to “standard height suggestions” except at the opposite end of the spectrum.I’m only ‘4 “10 tall!! Also,I have a flagstone patio installed by the previous owners that I usually do all My work on (instead of My driveway,Because I don’t like all My curious neighbors gawking My sometimes unorthodox methods to compensate for being so short..which also means shorter arm span,reach capabilities,etc) I don’t have a garage,Only a shed My issue is that the rough surface of the Flagstone,Means I’m constantly having to shim everything,when I set up for even the smallest project,So in addition to modifying Your cross-braces,As I’ve already mentioned,I’m also going to add screw-in furniture levelers (Or appliance feet that also screw up or down to level,But are heavier duty) & add non-skid self-adhesive pads to the bottom of the levelers so nothing moves while I’m pushing on it (IE:pushing material through My table saw,etc) Please don’t take My suggestions for modifying Your set-up as negative feedback,though.I appreciate that even posted this & got My creative gears turning to customize them for My specific needs,But because I’ve always had to do the most with less,I automatically think about using non-standard products or in out-of-the-box ways to use common products to achieve extraordinary results from ordinary items.So thank You & I hope maybe My suggestions help take Your builds to the next level & get Your gears turning,too 🙂
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