A Fabulous Bookcase with Adjustable Shelves Plus a Drawer!
The easy to build notched tall bookcase uses a series of short runners on each side to easily change the location of the shelves to something more suitable. There is also a drawer included in the plans that can be moved as well, making this a great project for any room! This plan is a quick and easy project that is perfect for any skill level.
The number of shelves are entirely up to you – the plan is written to include four shelves!
- 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
- 1” Brad Nails
- 1-1/2” Brad Nails
- 2″ Brad Nails
- Edge Banding (<– affiliate link!)
- Drawer handle or knob
- Wood Glue
- Sandpaper (80, 120, 220 grits)
- Finishing Supplies
- 1 – 1×2 at 4′
- 3 – 1×6 at 8′
- 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
- 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 70″ – Sides
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 34-1/2″ – Top and Bottom
- 3 – 1×2 at 15-1/2″ – Bottom Runners
- 78 – 3/4″ x 3/4″ square pieces at 15″ long – Shelf Runners
- 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 35-1/4″ x 69-1/4″ – Back
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 31-1/4″ – Drawer Bottom
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 6″ x 31-1/4″ – Drawer Box Back
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 6″ x 14-1/4″ – Drawer Box Sides
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 6″ x 32-3/4″ – Drawer Box Front
- 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 34-1/4″ – Shelves
Notes About the Project:
- Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly
- Sand all of the pieces before putting them together
- Sand the 1×6 before cutting into strips for the runners
- For help in making the most of the plywood sheets, see this post
Cut the pieces for the sides, top and bottom. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the top and bottom pieces. Secure the top and bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Pro Tip: Orient the pieces so that the pocket holes on the bottom face down, and the pocket holes on the top face up. This way, they won’t be visible!
Cut the pieces for the bottom runners. Secure the runners to the bottom using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails. Locate the runners 1/2″ back from the front edge of the bottom.
Cut the pieces for the shelf runners. It may be easier to sand the entire length of the 1×6 boards, then cut them into pieces that are 15″ long. Run the 15″ pieces through the table saw to rip them into strips 3/4″ wide. Make sure ALL safety practices are in place before proceeding!!
Also cut a spacer piece at 7/8″ wide – the runners will be spaced 7/8″ apart when positioned on the bookcase sides.
Secure the shelf runners to the sides using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails, spaced 7/8″ apart, with the back edges flush with the back edges of the sides (1″ back from the front edges), and starting approximately 6″ down from the top. Note that there will be a right side and a left side.
There will be six runners left over for the drawer.
Cut the piece for the back. Center the back over the opening and secure the piece in place using 1″ brad nails through the back into the sides, top and bottom.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Secure the sides to the back, then secure the front to the sides using glue and 2″ brad nails.
Cut the piece for the drawer box bottom. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom. Secure the bottom inside the drawer box making sure that the face with the pocket holes is facing down, and is flush with the lower edge of the drawer box, using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Secure the remaining runners to the sides of the drawer using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails, spacing them 7/8″ apart. Check the fit of the runners and apply a coat of paste wax to them after finishing.
Install a handle or knob to the drawer front, if desired!
Cut the pieces for the shelves. To help the shelves slide smoothly along the runners, apply a coat of paste wax to the edges of the shelves after finishing.
Finish the entire project, as desired!
Have questions about the plans to build a notched tall bookcase? Leave a comment below!