DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stackable Cabinet

New Plans for Fabulous Space-Saving Cabinet

This cabinet is a really neat option for any space… As a single cabinet, it is perfect as a media stand but it also can be built in a pair, then stacked (properly secured, of course!) to make a fabulous piece of storage! The DIY furniture plans to build a Stackable Cabinet feature sliding doors with glass or Plexiglas inserts, and a shelf behind them. It is a super-easy build that requires sliding door hardware (attached to the back of the doors which run in kerfs cut into the bottom and top stretcher). There is also trim along the edges of the top and bottom, and supports for the shelf inside.

Materials:

• 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
• 1-1/4″ screws
• 2″ brad nails
• Edge banding, optional
• 1/4″ glass or Plexiglas for the door inserts
• Sliding door hardware (<– affiliate link!)
• Cabinet pulls
• Wood glue
• Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
• Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools Needed:

• Table saw or Circular saw
• Miter saw
• Jigsaw
• Drill
• Pocket hole jig
• Router with 1/4″ rabbeting bit
• Iron for edge banding
• Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
• Sander

Lumber:

• 6 – 1×2 at 8′
• 2 – 1×3 at 8′
• 1 – 1×4 at 4′
• 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
• 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
• 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/4″ x 41-3/4″ – Bottom
• 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 29-3/4″ – Sides
• 2 – 1×2 at 41-3/4″ – Bottom Supports
• 2- 1×2 at 29-1/4″ – Side Faces
• 1 – 1×4 at 41-3/4″ – Upper Stretcher
• 2 – 1×2 at 14-3/4″ – Side Shelf Supports
• 3 – 1×2 at 41-3/4″ – Shelf Supports & Rear Stretcher
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 41-3/4″ – Shelf
• 4 – 1×3 at 15-3/4″ – Door Rails
• 4 – 1×3 at 26-3/4″ – Door Stiles
• 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/4″ x 43-1/4″ – Top
• 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 28-1/2″ x 42-1/2″ – Back
• 4 – 1×2 at 19-1/4″ – Upper & Lower Side Trim
• 2 – 1×2 at 44-3/4″ – Upper & Lower Front Trim

Notes about the project:

Before cutting the kerfs for the sliding door hardware, read the instructions with the hardware to determine the precise width and depth of the kerf. Large fender washers with a screw can also be used. The washers will be positioned so that the washer extends 3/8″ past the edges of the doors (they are installed at the top and the bottom).

Edge banding will be applied to the front end of the shelf prior to installing it in the cabinet.

Step One

Cut the piece for the bottom and the sides. Cut the kerfs in the front edge of the bottom according to the instructions for the sliding door hardware. Cut the 3/4″ x 3/4″ notches in the front edge with a jigsaw. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes on the underside of the bottom.

Secure the bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws positioning the bottom piece 3/4″ up from the bottom edge of the sides with the back edges of all pieces flush with each other (the front edge with the notches will extend 3/4″ past the sides).

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Secure to the underside of the bottom between the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The front support is positioned so that the ends are flush with the sides.

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the side faces and secure in place using glue and 2″ brad nails. The outside edges of the faces will be flush with the sides.

Step Four

Cut the piece for the upper stretcher and cut the kerfs for the sliding door hardware. Cut the 3/4″ x 3/4″ notches in the front edge with a jigsaw, and drill pocket holes on the opposite side of the piece. Secure the stretcher to the sides behind the side faces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the shelf supports and rear stretcher. Secure the side shelf supports using glue and 1-1/4″ screws (the back edges of the supports will be positioned 3/4″ from back edges of the sides).

Secure the front and back shelf supports to the side supports using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

Drill pocket holes in each end of the rear stretcher and secure to the upper back edge of the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step Six

Cut the piece for the shelf and apply edge banding to the front edge. Secure the shelf to the supports using glue and 2″ brad nails.

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the door frames. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rail pieces. Assemble the frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Using the router and the 1/4″ rabbeting bit, cut a 1/4″ deep by 1/4″ wide rabbet along the inside opening of the frame.

Cut the pieces of glass or Plexiglas to fit inside the opening (the inside corners of the frame may have to be chiseled square). Secure the glass or Plexiglas in place using a thin bead of silicone on the frame, then position the glass or Plexiglas.

Install the sliding door hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If I’m understanding it correctly, you should be able to shim the doors in the opening (starting with the outer door in the kerf closest to the front edge), then install the hardware. Repeat with the second door.

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the top and secure it in place using glue and 2″ brad nails through the top into the sides and rear stretcher. Secure the top to the front upper stretcher using 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the back and secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the side and front trim. Install the side trim pieces first, then install the front pieces.

Finish the cabinet as desired, then add cabinet pulls to the doors.

If building two cabinets for the stackable option, they can be secured together by using long screws through the underside of the top into the bottom supports and bottom piece. Three units can also be built and stacked, and will definitely need to be secured to a wall for security.

Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Stackable Cabinet? Leave a comment below!

Originally posted 2016-08-08 08:00:45.