Build a Ballard Designs Beadboard Drying Rack

Free Plans to Build a Beadboard Drying Rack

During my laundry room makeover, I decided I might like a better place to hang items that cannot be put in the dryer rather than plastic hangers suspended from wire shelving. I came across these drying racks and figured they would be an easily hackable build! The free plans to build a beadboard drying rack are easy to follow and construct, plus it is quite the inexpensive build!

Free Plans to Build a Beadboard Drying Rack MedFree Plans to Build a Beadboard Drying Rack SANY1651

The plans are created for the Medium drying racks and can be easily adjusted for the Small or Large sizes (though this size is plenty large enough!).


  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • One set of hinges
  • One magnetic catch
  • Four 1/2″ panhead screws
  • Two pieces of twill tape or nylon webbing each measuring approximately 16″ long
  • Finishing supplies


  • 1 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 7 – 3/8″ dowels at 3′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – quarter sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 42″ – Door Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 20″ – Door Frame
  • 7 – 3/8″ dowels at 21″ – Rungs
  • 2 – 1×3 at 25-3/4″ – Case Top & Bottom
  • 2 – 1×3 at 42-1/4″ – Case Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 23-1/4″ x 42-1/4″ – Back

Free Plans to Build a Beadboard Drying Rack Med. Rack

Free Plans to Build a Beadboard Drying Rack Med 2Click on the drawings to enlarge them!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the door frame, including the dowels. Mark and drill the holes in each of the longer pieces for the dowels. The dowels are spaced 5″ apart on center and the holes should be 1/2″ deep.

I marked all of the holes then used my drill press to drill the holes. A 3/8″ Forstner bit or 3/8″ paddle bit can also be used.

Free Plans to Build a Beadboard Drying Rack Med_Sides

Step Two

Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Attach the pieces to one long piece, with the dowel holes facing in, using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Place the dowels in each of the holes, then position the other long frame piece. A rubber mallet may be used to tap the frame piece in place. Secure using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Free Plans to Build a Beadboard Drying Rack Med_Doors 

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the case frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces. The top and bottom will overlap the sides by 1/2″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 Free Plans to Build a Beadboard Drying Rack Med_Case Frame

Step Four

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the case frame with the back of the panel flush with the back edge of the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Free Plans to Build a Beadboard Drying Rack Med. Back 

Step Five

Finish as desired. Attach the hinges to the door, then to the inside bottom of the case. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the door. Attach the magnetic catch at the inside center of the case frame at the top. Cut the twill tape to length and fold over about 1″ at each end. Attach the twill tape to the inside of the cabinet, then to the doors using the panhead screws. Nylon webbing (belting), ribbon, or even lightweight chain can be used – its just a piece to hold the door partially open.

Free Plans to Build a Beadboard Drying Rack SANY1652

Finish as desired. I covered the back piece with wallpaper, then painted the entire case using Valspar spray paint in Purple Fury. I also used three coats of Spar Varnish on the door just to protect it from moisture.

Have any questions about the free plans to build a beadboard drying rack? Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!


  • GB

    Love this drying rack. Great job.

    • CherTexter

      Awesome! Thanks so much for stopping by!

  • krysti08

    What color did you stain the wood? It looks gorgeous!

    • CherTexter

      Hello! I actually used spray paint from Valspar but I cannot remember the name. It is a plum color and I really love how it turned out! Thank you very much for stopping by!

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  • Bonnie

    Hi! Thanks for the tutorial!

    Is the case unit 3″ deep? I noticed on cut sheet it reflects 3″, but the cad drawing reflects 2 1/2 “. Or, perhaps that is what is added to the length of lower board of case. Thanks for your help!

    • Cher-Ann

      Hi, Bonnie! The case is built using 1×3 lumber which actually measures 3/4″ x 2-1/2″. So yes, even though the cut list calls for 1×3 material, the depth is actually 2-1/2″. The boards are cut at 1″ x 3″ when they come from the mill, then they are planed which smooths them out and evens them up resulting in the actual size being 3/4″ x 2-1/2″. In all honesty, I’m not sure why it is done this way! Hope this helps and if you have any other questions, please let me know!

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