Free Plans to Build a Beadboard Drying Rack
During my laundry room makeover, I decided I might like a better place to hang items that cannot be put in the dryer rather than plastic hangers suspended from wire shelving. I came across these drying racks and figured they would be an easily hackable build!
The plans are created for the Medium drying racks and can be easily adjusted for the Small or Large sizes (though this size is plenty large enough!).
- 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
- One set of hinges
- One magnetic catch
- Four 1/2″ panhead screws
- Two pieces of twill tape or nylon webbing each measuring approximately 16″ long
- Finishing supplies
- 1 – 1×2 at 8′
- 1 – 1×2 at 4′
- 7 – 3/8″ dowels at 3′
- 1 – 1×3 at 8′
- 1 – 1×3 at 6′
- 1 – quarter sheet of 3/4″ plywood
- 2 – 1×2 at 42″ – Door Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 20″ – Door Frame
- 7 – 3/8″ dowels at 21″ – Rungs
- 2 – 1×3 at 25-3/4″ – Case Top & Bottom
- 2 – 1×3 at 42-1/4″ – Case Sides
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 23-1/4″ x 42-1/4″ – Back
Click on the drawings to enlarge them!
1. Cut the pieces for the door frame, including the dowels. Mark and drill the holes in each of the longer pieces for the dowels. The dowels are spaced 5″ apart on center and the holes should be 1/2″ deep.
I marked all of the holes then used my drill press to drill the holes. A 3/8″ Forstner bit or 3/8″ paddle bit can also be used.
Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Attach the pieces to one long piece, with the dowel holes facing in, using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Place the dowels in each of the holes, then position the other long frame piece. A rubber mallet may be used to tap the frame piece in place. Secure using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
2. Cut the pieces for the case frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces. The top and bottom will overlap the sides by 1/2″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
3. Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the case frame with the back of the panel flush with the back edge of the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
4. Finish as desired. Attach the hinges to the door, then to the inside bottom of the case. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the door. Attach the magnetic catch at the inside center of the case frame at the top. Cut the twill tape to length and fold over about 1″ at each end. Attach the twill tape to the inside of the cabinet, then to the doors using the panhead screws. Nylon webbing (belting), ribbon, or even lightweight chain can be used – its just a piece to hold the door partially open.
Finish as desired. I covered the back piece with wallpaper, then painted the entire case using Valspar spray paint in Purple Fury. I also used three coats of Spar Varnish on the door just to protect it from moisture.
Have you used my plans to create any projects? Share them with me and be featured on DbSC! Contact me at designsbystudioc [at] gmail [dot] com!
Until next time,
#DIY #woodworking #build