Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet
Here is another customizable plan for a file cabinet. The depth should stay the same but the length can be increased to fit your needs! Click on the drawings to enlarge them!
- One sheet of 3/4″ plywood (I used Purebond plywood)
- Edge banding to match the 3/4″ plywood
- One half sheet of 1/2″ plywood
- One half sheet of 1/4″ plywood
- Two – 1/8″ x 1/2″ x 36″ strips of aluminum
- Four 1/4″ nylon spacers
- Four 1″ screws to mount the aluminum
- Four sets of 14″ drawer slides (ball bearing 3/4 extension)
- Four drawer handles
- Table saw, jigsaw or circular saw
- Kreg jig and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
- Brad nailer and 1-1/4″ brad nails
- Square and pencil
- Two – 3/4″ plywood @ 15″ x 48″ – Sides
- One – 3/4″ plywood @ 18″ x 48″ – Back
- One – 3/4″ plywood @ 14-1/4″ x 16-1/2″ – Bottom
- One – 3/4″ plywood @ 4-7/8″ x 16-1/2″ – Kick Plate
- Two – 3/4″ plywood @ 2-1/2″ x 16-1/2″ – Interior Supports
- Two – 3/4″ plywood @ 6-1/2″ x 17-3/4″ – Smaller Drawer Fronts
- Two – 3/4″ plywood @ 15-1/4″ x 17-3/4″ – Larger Drawer Fronts
- Four – 1/2″ plywood @ 5-1/2″ x 15-1/4″ – Smaller Drawer Boxes
- Four – 1/2″ plywood @ 5-1/2″ x 13″ – Smaller Drawer Boxes
- Four – 1/2″ plywood @ 13″ x 15-1/4″ – Larger Drawer Boxes
- Four – 1/2″ plywood @ 13″ x 13″ – Larger Drawer Boxes
- Four – 1/4″ plywood @ 14″ x 15-1/4″ – Drawer Bottoms
Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in the top of the sides, as well as one long edge at the back. Also drill pocket holes in the top edge of the back. Remember, there will be a right and left! Attach the sides to the back using glue and pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes in the edges to attach the bottom to the sides and back. Use glue and pocket hole screws to secure the bottom to the sides and back as shown.
Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end of this piece and attach to the sides of the cabinet. The top of the kick plate will be flush with the top face of the bottom piece.
Cut the piece for the top. Attach the top to the sides and back using glue and pocket hole screws through the pocket holes at the top of the sides and back into the top.
Cut the pieces for the inner supports. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides as shown with glue and pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. They can be assembled using glue with pocket holes (for 1/2″ material), brad nails, or countersunk screws. I used glue and brad nails to assemble the drawers for my file cabinet. Attach the bottom using glue and brad nails.
Attach the drawer hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The dimensions shown on the drawing are to the bottom of the smaller upper drawers, and the middle of the larger lower drawers.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8″ gap between the fronts to allow the drawers to freely open and close. For an easy tutorial on how to attach the fronts, click here.
To attach the aluminum strips for the file folders, cut the strips into four 13″ long pieces. Pre-drill a hole in each end of the strip and attach the strips with the 1″ pan head screws each through a spacer into the larger drawer boxes.
Until next time,
** Please note – these plans are designed and created by me. They are not to be sold without express written consent from me. They can be shared on any site as long as they are credited back to me!