DIY Plans to Build a Braylon Chest
This chest would serve a lot of storage needs… The DIY plans to build a Braylon Chest feature four drawers at the bottom with two doors at the top concealing a shelf space. This dresser is another super-easy build that would make a great addition to any room!
- 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4″ brad nails
- Edge banding
- 2 sets of hinges
- 2 magnetic catches
- 4 sets of 16″ drawer slides (the flat, ball-bearing type)
- Cabinet pulls
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
- Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
- 2 – 1×3 at 6′
- 4 – 1×6 at 8′
- 2 – 1×8 at 6′
- 6 – 2×2 at 6′
- 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
- 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
- 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
- 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
- 4 – 2×2 at 50″ – Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 15″ – Side Framing
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 43″ – Side Panels
- 4 – 2×2 at 33″ – Stretchers
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 33″ – Top & Bottom
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 33″ – Shelf
- 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 34-1/2″ x 44-1/2″ – Back
- 8 – 1×6 at 16″ – Drawer Box Sides
- 8 – 1×6 at 30-1/2″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 4 – 1/4″ plywood at 15″ x 31″ – Drawer Box Bottom
- 4 – 1×8 at 32-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts
- 4 – 1×3 at 11-5/16″ – Door Rails
- 4 – 1×3 at 13-1/4″ – Door Stiles
- 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 8-1/4″ x 11-5/16″ – Door Panels
Click on the drawings for a larger view!
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper using a jigsaw, bandsaw, or a tapering jig on a table saw.
Cut the pieces for the side framing and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing to the legs (with the tapers facing to what will be the back side of the assembly) using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the panels to the framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame.
Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top and the bottom panels. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the panels to the stretchers and the side framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the panels will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.
Cut the piece for the shelf and drill pocket holes in the side edges. Secure the shelf to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Note that the shelf will be positioned flush with the back legs and 1″ back from the front face of the front legs.
Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Mark the position on the inside of the side panels for the drawer slides. The dimensions indicate the top of each of the drawer slides. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions positioning them 3/4″ back from the front face of the front legs.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box front and back pieces on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight.
Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box front to the drawer box sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Position the remaining drawer slide on the side of the drawer box 3-1/2″ up from the bottom. This dimension is to the top of the drawer slide.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Starting with the lower drawer front, shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.
Shim the next drawer front in place spacing it 1/8″ away from the lower drawer front and work your way up.
Cut the pieces for the door stiles and rails. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rails. Assemble the door frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the door panels. Set the pocket hole jig for 1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the panel inside the frame using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws.
Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the magnetic catches and the cabinet pulls.
Finish as desired.
This chest would be fabulous as storage in an entryway or in a dining room. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Braylon Chest? Leave a comment below!