An End Table with a Superhero Twist
DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan’s End Table
Ryan is a little guy I know who is crazy about superheroes, especially Spiderman. He really needed a place to put his stuff when visiting his dad so I built a new end table for him. The DIY furniture plans to build Ryan’s End Table feature a drawer and two shelves behind a door. This end table is a little taller than most because I designed it around the Spiderman art piece that is attached to the front of the door. I also used superhero cabinet pulls that I found at the hobby store. The entire end table was built using scrap wood as well as tongue and groove planks for the sides and door, and I was able to complete it in a weekend.
The superhero accents are totally optional! The tongue and groove planks give this cabinet a true country vibe…
- 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4″ brad nails
- 2″ brad nails
- 1 set of roller-type drawer slides (length doesn’t matter – they will need to be cut to fit)
- 1 set of hinges
- 2 cabinet pulls
- Magnetic catch
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
- Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
- Table saw
- Miter saw or circular saw
- Pocket hole jig
- Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor (or a battery powered version)
- 5 – 1×2 at 6′
- 1 – 1×3 at 6′
- 1 – 1×4 at 6′
- 3 – 1×6 pine tongue and groove planks at 8′
- 1 – 1×12 at 6′
- 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
- 4 – 1×2 at 27″ – Side Framing
- 2 – 1×2 at 9-3/4″ – Upper Side Framing
- 2 – 1×3 at 12-3/4″ – Lower Side Framing
- 4 – 1×6 planks (ripped to 4-7/8″ wide – see Step One) at 27″ – Side Panels
- 2 – 1×3 at 18-5/8″ – Lower Front & Back Stretchers
- 1 – 1×12 at 18-5/8″ – Bottom Shelf
- 5 – 1×2 at 18-5/8″ – Front & Back Stretchers
- 1 – 1×12 at 18-5/8″ – Shelf
- 2 – 1×2 at 11-1/4″ – Top Side Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 21-3/8″ – Top Front & Back Trim
- 1 – 1×12 at 18-3/8″ – Top
- 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 19-1/8″ x 28-3/4″ – Back
- 2 – 1×4 at 11-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
- 2 – 1×4 at 16-1/8″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 10-1/2″ x 16-5/8″ – Drawer Box Bottom
- 1 – 1×6 at 18-3/8″ – Drawer Front
- 2 – 1×2 at 15-3/8″ – Door Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 19-1/2″ – Door Trim
- 3 – 1×6 planks at 16-1/2″ – Door Panel
Click on the drawings for a larger view!
Notes about the project:
Make sure the 1×12 boards are 11-1/4″ wide. The boards I used were wider and I had to rip them down on the table saw!
Cut the pieces to length for the side framing and panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1×2 framing piece and the lower end of the longer 1×2 framing pieces. Pocket holes will also be drilled in each end of the planks. Dry fit the planks together and position the shorter 1×2 framing piece at the top end of the planks. Make a mark where the planks overlap the framing piece (usually the tongue of one piece and the groove of the other). This will have to be ripped off at the table saw.
Draw the arc on the lower framing pieces and cut it out with a jigsaw. Assemble the side panels as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the lower front and back stretchers. Draw an arc on each piece and cut it out with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece, then secure to the lower end of the side panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position the shelf between the lower front and back stretchers (the top face of the shelf will be flush with the top edge of the stretchers) securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The pocket holes in the back stretchers can face to the back of the cabinet.
Cut the piece for the shelf and drill pocket holes in one long edge as well as the two shorter edges. Secure the shelf to the side panels and the corresponding back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The shelf will sit 3/4″ back from the front edge of the sides to allow for the door.
Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the 1×12 panel, as well as in each end of the shorter 1×2 pieces. Assemble the top using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Position the top on the top of the cabinet. The sides will overhang by 5/8″ and the front and back will overhang by 3/4″. Secure in place using glue and 2″ brad nails.
Cut the piece for the back. Center the back on the cabinet securing in place with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box front and back pieces on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight.
Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box front to the drawer box sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Since the drawer is an odd length, the drawer slides will have to be cut to fit. This can be done easily with a hacksaw. For an easy how-to, click here. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.
Cut the pieces for the door. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1×2 pieces, as well as in each end of the planks. Dry fit the planks together and position the shorter 1×2 framing piece at the top end of the planks. Make a mark where the planks overlap the framing piece (usually the tongue of one piece and the groove of the other). This will have to be ripped off at the table saw.
Assemble the door as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Finish as desired. To install the hinges, shim the door in place then secure the hinges to the front facing edge of the sides. Pre-drill the holes for the screws, then secure the hinges to the door. Install the magnetic catch under the shelf inside the cabinet with the other piece attached to the door.
I painted Ryan’s end table in a slick red to match the Spiderman art piece on the front. I sprayed the finish with an HVLP sprayer. Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build Ryan’s End Table? Leave a comment below!