DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet
Most everyone loves IKEA furniture, right? It is simple, modern and an absolute joy to put together – or so I’m told! Today’s DIY furniture plans to build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet are very similar to the original with shelves behind glass (or Plexiglas) doors and three drawers on the bottom. The neat thing about these cabinets is that the top does not overhang the sides so more than one can be built then placed side by side for the ultimate in storage!
- 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4″ brad nails
- 2″ brad nails
- Edge banding
- 2 sets of hinges
- Cabinet pulls (for the doors and drawers)
- Wood glue
- Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
- Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
- Table saw or circular saw
- Miter saw
- Pocket hole jig
- Router with 1/4″ rabbetting bit
- Hinge mortise jig, optional
- 5 – 1×2 at 6′
- 6 – 2×2 at 6′
- 4 – 2×2 at 8′
- 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
- 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood
- 1/4″ glass or Plexiglas for the doors
- 4- 2×2 at 76-3/4″ – Legs
- 6 – 2×2 at 11″ – Side Framing
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11″ x 36-1/8″ – Upper Side Panels
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11″ x 32-1/8″ – Lower Side Panels
- 10 – 2×2 at 32″ Front & Back Stretchers
- 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 35″ – Top
- 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 11″ x 32″ – Lower Shelves
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 32″ – Upper Shelves
- 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 33-1/2″ x 72″ – Back
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-7/16″ x 31-7/8″ – Upper Drawer Box Front & Back
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-7/16″ x 12-1/2″ – Upper Drawer Box Sides
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 9-7/16″ x 31-7/8″ – Middle Drawer Box Front & Back
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 9-7/16″ x 12-1/2″ – Middle Drawer Box Sides
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-15/16″ x 31-7/8″ – Lower Drawer Box Front & Back
- 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-15/16″ x 12-1/2″” – Lower Drawer Box Sides
- 3 – 1/4″ plywood at 13″ x 30-7/8″ – Drawer Box Bottom
- 4 – 1×2 at 12-13/16″ – Door Rails
- 4 – 1×2 at 35-7/8″ – Door Stiles
Click on the drawings for a larger view!
Notes about the project:
Edge banding will be applied to the edges of the top and will be applied to the front edges of the upper shelves prior to securing them to the cabinet.
Cut the pieces for the legs, side framing and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the side framing pieces. Secure the side framing to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the side panels. Insert the panels in the side framing securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back faces of the panels will be flush with the back faces of the side framing.
Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the side framing (the legs) using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. The front edge of the top will overhang by 1/2″. Secure in place using glue and 2″ brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the lower shelves. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the shelves between the lower front and back stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top faces of the shelves will be flush with the top faces of the stretchers.
Cut the pieces for the upper shelves and drill pocket holes in the side edges. Secure the shelves to the sides of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The shelves will be set back 1-1/2″ from the front faces of the legs (making them flush with the back legs).
Cut the piece for the back. Center the piece on the back and secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box front and back pieces on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight.
Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box front to the drawer box sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Slide the drawers in each corresponding opening.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rails and assemble the door frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Use the router and the rabbetting bit to cut a 1/4″ deep rabbet along the inside of each door frame. Cut the glass or Plexiglas to fit in the opening, securing in place with a bead of silicone or turnbuttons secured to the frame to hold the glass in place.
If needed, use a hinge mortise jig to cut mortises in the door frames for the hinges. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet.
Finish as desired. Install the cabinet pulls, and apply a coat of paste wax on the bottom of the drawers so they slide in the openings.
This is a super-simple plan that is definitely suitable for those new to woodworking. I may add more IKEA inspired plans in the future… Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Hemnes Inspired Glass Door Cabinet? Leave a comment below!