An Easy to Build Side Table with a Pull-Out Shelf and a Drawer

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table

This table can be used in any room in the house… It can be used as a nightstand or as a table next to a sofa or chair. The DIY furniture plans to build a Blackwell Side Table feature a pull-out shelf under the top, an open shelf area in the middle and a drawer on the bottom. This super-easy plan can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-3/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 1 set of 22″ drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls (one will be a small jewelry box pull with an attached screw)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
  • Paste wax

Tools Needed:

  • Jigsaw or bandsaw
  • Table saw
  • Iron for edge banding
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
  • Sander
  • Drawer slide jig (optional)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1″ square dowels at 3′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×4 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 26″ – Legs
  • 2 – 1×4 at 20″ – Lower Sides
  • 1 – 1×4 at 24″ – Lower Back
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 23″ x 27″ – Shelves
  • 2 – 1″ dowels at 20″ – Upper Sides
  • 1 – 1″ dowel at 24″ – Lower Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 23″ x 27″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×3 at 22″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1×3 at 21-1/2″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 21″ x 22″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 1 – 1×4 at 23-3/4″ – Drawer Front
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 21-1/2″ x 23-7/8″ – Pull-Out Shelf

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs as well as the lower sides and back. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the lower sides and back. Secure the lower sides and back to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the lower sides and back will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Lower Sides & Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the three shelves (lower, middle and upper). Cut the notches using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Secure the lower shelf to the underside of the lower back and sides using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails. Before securing the middle shelf in place, install the drawer slides on the lower sides, locating them 3/4″ back from the front face of the front legs.

Secure the middle shelf to the top of the lower sides and back using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Lower Shelf 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Lower Shelf 2

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Middle Shelf

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the upper sides and back. Drill one pocket hole in each end of each piece. Before securing the pieces to the top of the legs, lay the upper shelf on top of the middle shelf. (It may be too difficult to install the upper shelf once the upper sides and back have been secured to the legs.) Secure the upper sides and back to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Slide the upper shelf in place under the upper sides and back securing in place using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Upper Sides & Back

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Upper Shelf

Step Four

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Top

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box front and back pieces on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Drawer 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Drawer 2

Step Six

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Drawer 3

Step Seven

Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box front to the drawer box sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Install the other half of the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Drawer 4

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the drawer front. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Drawer Front

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the slide-out shelf. Insert into the opening under the top.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Slide Out

Finish as desired. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the slide-out shelf to allow the shelf to slide smoothly in the opening.

If the table is going to be stained, I would recommend cutting the drawer front, upper sides and back, and legs out of plywood so that the wood species is consistent. Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Blackwell Side Table? Leave a comment below!




Build a Geneva Corner Table

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table – the Perfect Project for Beginners!

Here a plans for a table that is super simple to build… I can see it with a stenciled top and shelf! The DIY plans to build a Geneva corner table are easy to construct and feature a false drawer front making this the perfect project for those who want to try woodworking!

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-1/2″ x 29″ – Lower Shelf
  • 3 – 2×2 at 27-1/4″ – Legs
  • 1 – 1×6 at 29″ – Front Stretcher
  • 2 – 1×6 at 21-3/8″ – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-3/4″ x 33-1/2″ – Top
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 3-1/2″ x 14″ – False Drawer Front

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the piece for the shelf. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes as shown.

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table_Shelf

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the legs. Secure the shelf to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table_Legs

Step Three

Cut the piece for the front stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front stretcher will be located 1/4″ back from the front face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table_Front Stretcher

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and cut a 45° bevel at each end. Position on the legs so the stretchers are located 1/4″ back from the outside face of the legs. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table_Side Stretchers

Step Five

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang the front by 3/4″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table_Top 1 DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table_Top 2

Step Six

Cut the piece for the false drawer front. Position on the front stretcher as shown securing in place with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table_False Drawer Front

Finish as desired.

A pair of the Geneva corner tables would be great in a living room or even in a small bedroom! If there are any questions about the DIY plans to build a Geneva corner table, leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Another Easy to Build End Table with Lots of Style!

DIY Plans to Build a Tray Side Table

This table is really neat in that it has a built-in tray top! The DIY plans to build a Tray Side Table feature 2×2 framing and a top with sides. I would consider this table an ultra-easy build and a fabulous pair can be built in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Tray Side Table_Copy

 

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

Lumber listed is to build ONE table!

  • 1 – 1×4 at 6′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 14-1/2″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 12-1/2″ – End & Side Framing
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14″ x 14″ – Tray Base
  • 2 – 1×4 at 14″ – Tray Sides
  • 2 – 1×4 at 15-1/2″ – Tray Front & Back

DIY Plans to Build a Tray Side Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side framing, and the end framing. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Tray Side Table_Sides

DIY Plans to Build a Tray Side Table_Ends

Step Two

Cut the pieces for tray base, sides, front, and back. Secure the sides of the tray to the base using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The bottom edge of the sides will be flush with the bottom of the base.

Apply glue to the edge of the sides and the base, then position the front and the back securing in place using 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Tray Side Table_Tray 1

DIY Plans to Build a Tray Side Table_Tray 2

Step Three

Apply glue to the top of the frame. Position the top on the frame then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Tray Side Table_Tray 3

Finish as desired.

There are so many finishing possibilities for the tables – distressed, stained, painted, stenciled, etc! The end table would be great in a pair as nightstands to house books, lip balm, and a glass of water! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Tray Side Table? Leave a comment below!




Any Easy to Build Table with a Metal Base

DIY Copper Pipe End Table with a Wood Top

This copper pipe project is one where I sort of winged it and wrote it as I went along. I really wanted to build a DIY copper pipe end table with a wood top and love the way this one came out! Using 1/2″ copper pipe with matching fittings, and 3/4″ plywood for the top, this table can be completed in a matter of hours!

DIY Copper Pipe End Table with a Wood Top

Materials:

  • 12 – 1/2″ copper tees
  • 4 – 1/2″ copper 90° elbows
  • 6 – 1/2″ copper pipe straps
  • 1 – 1/2″ copper pipe at 10′
  • Fast drying adhesive (such as DAP® Rapid Fuse)
  • Very fine steel wool
  • 3/4″ screws
  • 5/8″ Rubber leg tips
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools needed:

  • Pipe cutter
  • Table saw or circular saw
  • Drill
  • Sander

Cut List:

For the 1/2″ copper pipe:

  • 4 @ 4-1/2″ – Ends
  • 2 @ 4-1/4″ – Ends
  • 8 @ 1-1/2″ – Spacers
  • 2 @ 13-3/4″ – Top Supports
  • 4 @ 13-3/4″ – Sides
  • 4 @ 15″ – Legs

For the plywood top:

  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 17″

DIY Copper Pipe End Table with a Wood Top - Completed View

Notes about the project:

The table measures 17″ x 17″ square and is approximately 20″ tall.

Use the fast-drying adhesive to secure the fittings to the pipe.

Polish the pipe and fittings with the steel wool prior to cutting and assembly – touch up the pipe as necessary!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the ends. Slip a 90° elbow on one end of each of the 4-1/2″ pieces, with a tee on the other end. Connect these pieces to each other with a 4-1/4″ piece of pipe between them to create two end assemblies. (Refer to the photo for the positioning of the fittings.)

DIY Copper Pipe End Table with a Wood Top - Starting Assemblies

Step Two

Cut the 1-1/2″ spacer pieces and insert one in each end of the 90° elbow. Add a tee to the end of each of these pieces followed by another 1-1/2″ piece of pipe in the end of the tee. (Refer to the photo.)

Cut the 13-3/4″ sides and add a tee to each end of two of these pieces. Add these pieces to the end of each 1-1/2″ piece.

DIY Copper Pipe End Table with a Wood Top - Side Assemblies

Step Three

Secure the assemblies to each other with the remaining 13-3/4″ pieces of pipe, then insert a 15″ leg into the bottom of each remaining tee.

DIY Copper Pipe End Table with a Wood Top - Top Assembly

Add the rubber leg tips to the bottom of the pipe legs. (I used a copper colored spray paint to change the tips so they would match the table frame.

Step Four

Cut the plywood for the top and finish as desired. I used the glue resist technique with white glue prior to staining and sealing the table top.

DIY Copper Pipe End Table with a Wood Top - Glue Resist Top

Secure the frame to the table top using the 1/2″ pipe straps and 3/4″ screws.

DIY Copper Pipe End Table with a Wood Top - Pipe Straps

DIY Copper Pipe End Table with a Wood Top - Secured Top

pinnable

The DIY copper pipe end table with a wood top is relatively inexpensive and easy to build. As an even cheaper alternative, PVC pipe can be used then spray painted in any color desired. The top can be customized, as well! Have any questions about this end table? Leave a comment below!




A New Knock-Off End Table Plan

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an IKEA Inspired Selje End Table

When I saw this table on the IKEA website, I fell in love with it! I love the angled lines and the angled notch in the drawer front – it is so modern! The price for the table is super cheap but as I’ve mentioned before, unless an IKEA store is right next door, the cost of shipping will be a killer! My version can be made for approximately the same price! The DIY furniture plans to build an IKEA inspired Selje End Table feature the same angled legs and drawer as the original except that my version has a deeper drawer, and is a little taller and narrower. Don’t let all of the angles fool you because this table is a really easy build and is one I plan on adding to my list!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an IKEA Inspired Selje End Table - Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 2″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
  • Paste Wax

Tools Needed:

  • Miter saw or Circular saw
  • Table saw
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
  • Sander

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×6 at 4′
  • 1 – 1×12 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 20-3/16″ – Legs
  • 2 – 1×12 (ripped to 7-1/4″ wide) at 8-1/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 1×12 (ripped to 7-1/4″ wide) at 13-1/4″ – Back
  • 1 – 1×12 (ripped to 9″ wide) at 13-1/4″ – Bottom
  • 1 – 1×12 at 15″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×6 at 11-1/2″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 1×6 at 9″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 1 – 1×12 (ripped to 7-1/2″ wide) at 11-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 1 – 1×12 (ripped to 7-1/8″ wide) at 13-1/8″ – Drawer Front

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an IKEA Inspired Selje End Table

An easy to build table inspired by a catalog retailer featuring angled legs and an angled drawer. A quick weekend project that will look fabulous in any room!

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes about the project:

The angles and bevels are all cut at 5°. The bevels can be cut by setting the blade angle on a table saw at 5° and running the pieces through. In some pieces like the bottom and the drawer box bottom, the angles will face each other while in the legs, sides and drawer box sides, the angles or bevels will face the same direction. When cutting the angles or bevels in the same direction, make a pass through the table saw cutting a bevel on one edge, then turn the piece to cut the bevel in the opposite edge. When cutting angles or bevels that face the same direction, make a pass through the table saw cutting a bevel on one edge, then flip the piece upside down to cut the bevel in the opposite edge.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and cut 5° angles in the top and bottom of each piece.

Cut the pieces for the sides and cut a 5° bevel along the top and bottom. The bevels will face the same direction. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each side edge of the side pieces. Secure the sides to the legs using glue and pocket hole screws with the back faces of the sides flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an IKEA Inspired Selje End Table - Legs

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an IKEA Inspired Selje End Table - Sides

Step Two

Cut the piece for the back and cut 5° angles in each side edge (the angles will face each other). Drill pocket holes in the side edges along the angles securing the piece to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an IKEA Inspired Selje End Table - Back

Step Three

Cut the piece for the bottom, cutting 5° bevels along the side edges of the piece. (This way the bottom piece will fit correctly against the sides and legs.) Secure the bottom to the sides and legs using glue and 2″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an IKEA Inspired Selje End Table - Bottom 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an IKEA Inspired Selje End Table - Bottom 2

Step Four

Cut the piece for the top, cutting 5° bevels along the side edges of the piece. Secure the top to the legs, sides and back using glue and 2″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an IKEA Inspired Selje End Table - Top

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the drawer box front and back, and cut 5° angles in each side edge (the angles will face each other). Drill pocket holes in the side edges along the angles.

Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides and cut a 5° bevel along the top and bottom. The bevels will face the same direction. Secure the drawer box front and back pieces to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an IKEA Inspired Selje End Table - Drawer Box FB

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an IKEA Inspired Selje End Table - Drawer Box Sides

Step Six

Cut the piece for the drawer box bottom, cutting 5° bevels along the side edges of the piece. (This way the bottom piece will fit correctly against the sides, front and back of the drawer box.) Secure the bottom to the sides and legs using glue and 2″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an IKEA Inspired Selje End Table - Drawer Box Bottom 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an IKEA Inspired Selje End Table - Drawer Box Bottom 2

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the drawer front, and cut 5° angles in each end (the angles will face each other). Cut a 1″ x 1″ angled notch out of each side of the top edge of the piece. Insert the drawer box in the opening. There will be a 1/16″ gap at the sides and top of the drawer front in the opening, with the bottom edge of the drawer front overlapping the cabinet bottom. Secure the drawer front to the drawer box using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an IKEA Inspired Selje End Table - Drawer Front 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an IKEA Inspired Selje End Table - Drawer Front 2

Finish the end table and drawer as desired. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the drawer and inside the cabinet where the drawer rests so the drawer will slide smoothly in the opening.

This table is the perfect addition to a living room or entryway, and built as a pair, the table would be excellent nightstands! Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build an IKEA inspired Selje End Table? Leave a comment below!




An Easy to Build Spool Table Inspired by a Catalog Retailer

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Knock-Off Spool Side Table

Sometimes, I love a good knock-off project. As I was looking through the Ballard Designs catalog, I came across this awesome spool table. I created the DIY furniture plans to build a Knock-Off Spool Side Table that looks just like the original piece and it can be built for a fraction of the cost of the original. I used narrower rope than the original and to me, it looks more like a spool of sewing thread. I also used wood rounds from the home improvement store and a concrete tube form for the center. I added nail-on furniture glides to the bottom to protect the floor and stenciled the top with a few words and numbers.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Knock-Off Spool Side Table

Materials:

  • 2 – 17-3/4″ diameter wood rounds
  • 1 – 12″ concrete tube form
  • 2 – 13″ square scrap pieces of plywood
  • 8 – 1-1/2″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • 1″ staples for a pneumatic stapler or 3/4″ screws
  • Stain and sealer of choice
  • 4 – Nail-on furniture glides
  • Spray paint (for tube)
  • 4 rolls of 3/8″ x 50ft. sisal rope
  • 2 tubes of Liquid Nails
  • Stencil of choice and craft paint, optional

Tools Needed:

  • Jigsaw
  • Drill with a Phillips bit
  • Pneumatic stapler with compressor
  • Caulking gun

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Knock-Off Spool Side Table - Supplies for Table

Step One

Cut a piece of the tube at 18″ tall. I drew a line around the tube, then used a hacksaw to start the cut. I used my jigsaw to finish the cut. Spray paint the tube. I used brown spray paint and it doesn’t have to be perfect, it just has to cover the gold color of the tube in case there are gaps in the rope when it is applied.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Knock-Off Spool Side Table - Painted Tube

Step Two

Mark the center of each of the plywood pieces by drawing diagonal lines across the boards. Measure the inside diameter of the tube – this measurement may vary from tube to tube. Draw a circle on the plywood pieces using a string, pushpin and pencil at the radius of the tube. Cut out the circles with a jigsaw. Test fit the circles in the ends of the tube. Trim as necessary.

Step Three

Center the smaller plywood circles on the wood rounds. Secure in place using wood glue and 1-1/2″ screws. Stain and seal these pieces as desired. Add the nail-on furniture glides to the piece that will be used as the bottom.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Knock-Off Spool Side Table - Top & Bottom Circles

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Knock-Off Spool Side Table - Nail On Furniture Glides

Step Four

Place the tube on one of the wood rounds, over the plywood circle. It should fit snugly. Secure the tube to the plywood circle using a pneumatic stapler and 1″ staples or 3/4″ screws. Install the nail-on glides on the bottom of the wood round.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Knock-Off Spool Side Table - Secure Tube to Bottom

Step Five

Apply a bit of Liquid Nails on the tube and start wrapping the rope around the tube covering the raw end of the rope. Continue wrapping the rope around the tube butting the ends as you go and applying the Liquid Nails as needed.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Knock-Off Spool Side Table - Gluing Rope

Set the top round on the tube with the plywood circle inside the tube. Add a stencil to the top as desired.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Knock-Off Spool Side Table - Stenciled Top

An easy to build knock-off side table inspired by a catalog retailer featuring a removable top with storage for light blankets or small pillows! This fabulous table looks great in any room or as a pair in bedroom!Super-easy and inexpensive to build...

The top lifts off of the tube for storage and can house a couple of light afghans or small pillows. Super-easy, right? This table would be fabulous built as a pair and used as nightstands in a bedroom! Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Knock-Off Spool Side Table? Leave a comment below!

(This project is one I originally created for Domestically-Speaking.com)




An End Table with a Superhero Twist

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan’s End Table

Ryan is a little guy I know who is crazy about superheroes, especially Spiderman. He really needed a place to put his stuff when visiting his dad so I built a new end table for him. The DIY furniture plans to build Ryan’s End Table feature a drawer and two shelves behind a door. This end table is a little taller than most because I designed it around the Spiderman art piece that is attached to the front of the door. I also used superhero cabinet pulls that I found at the hobby store. The entire end table was built using scrap wood as well as tongue and groove planks for the sides and door, and I was able to complete it in a weekend.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Easy to Build!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table with optional superhero accents

The superhero accents are totally optional! The tongue and groove planks give this cabinet a true country vibe…

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Door Open

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 2″ brad nails
  • 1 set of roller-type drawer slides (length doesn’t matter – they will need to be cut to fit)
  • 1 set of hinges
  • 2 cabinet pulls
  • Magnetic catch
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools needed:

  • Table saw
  • Miter saw or circular saw
  • Jigsaw
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor (or a battery powered version)

Lumber:

  • 5 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×4 at 6′
  • 3 – 1×6 pine tongue and groove planks at 8′
  • 1 – 1×12 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1×2 at 27″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 1×2 at 9-3/4″ – Upper Side Framing
  • 2 – 1×3 at 12-3/4″ – Lower Side Framing
  • 4 – 1×6 planks (ripped to 4-7/8″ wide – see Step One) at 27″ – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1×3 at 18-5/8″ – Lower Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 1×12 at 18-5/8″ – Bottom Shelf
  • 5 – 1×2 at 18-5/8″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 1×12 at 18-5/8″ – Shelf
  • 2 – 1×2 at 11-1/4″ – Top Side Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 21-3/8″ – Top Front & Back Trim
  • 1 – 1×12 at 18-3/8″ – Top
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 19-1/8″ x 28-3/4″ – Back
  • 2 – 1×4 at 11-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1×4 at 16-1/8″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 10-1/2″ x 16-5/8″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 1 – 1×6 at 18-3/8″ – Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1×2 at 15-3/8″ – Door Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 19-1/2″ – Door Trim
  • 3 – 1×6 planks at 16-1/2″ – Door Panel

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes about the project:

Make sure the 1×12 boards are 11-1/4″ wide. The boards I used were wider and I had to rip them down on the table saw!

Step One

Cut the pieces to length for the side framing and panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1×2 framing piece and the lower end of the longer 1×2 framing pieces. Pocket holes will also be drilled in each end of the planks. Dry fit the planks together and position the shorter 1×2 framing piece at the top end of the planks. Make a mark where the planks overlap the framing piece (usually the tongue of one piece and the groove of the other). This will have to be ripped off at the table saw.

Draw the arc on the lower framing pieces and cut it out with a jigsaw. Assemble the side panels as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the lower front and back stretchers. Draw an arc on each piece and cut it out with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece, then secure to the lower end of the side panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Bottom Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position the shelf between the lower front and back stretchers (the top face of the shelf will be flush with the top edge of the stretchers) securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Bottom Shelf

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The pocket holes in the back stretchers can face to the back of the cabinet.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Back Stretchers

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Front Stretchers

Step Five

Cut the piece for the shelf and drill pocket holes in one long edge as well as the two shorter edges. Secure the shelf to the side panels and the corresponding back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The shelf will sit 3/4″ back from the front edge of the sides to allow for the door.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Shelf

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the 1×12 panel, as well as in each end of the shorter 1×2 pieces. Assemble the top using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Position the top on the top of the cabinet. The sides will overhang by 5/8″ and the front and back will overhang by 3/4″. Secure in place using glue and 2″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Top 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Top 2

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the back. Center the back on the cabinet securing in place with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Back

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box front and back pieces on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Drawer Box 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Drawer Box 2

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Drawer Box 3

Step Ten

Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box front to the drawer box sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Since the drawer is an odd length, the drawer slides will have to be cut to fit. This can be done easily with a hacksaw. For an easy how-to, click here. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Drawer Box 4

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Drawer Front

Step Twelve

Cut the pieces for the door. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1×2 pieces, as well as in each end of the planks. Dry fit the planks together and position the shorter 1×2 framing piece at the top end of the planks. Make a mark where the planks overlap the framing piece (usually the tongue of one piece and the groove of the other). This will have to be ripped off at the table saw.

Assemble the door as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Door 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Door 2

Finish as desired. To install the hinges, shim the door in place then secure the hinges to the front facing edge of the sides. Pre-drill the holes for the screws, then secure the hinges to the door. Install the magnetic catch under the shelf inside the cabinet with the other piece attached to the door.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - A fabulous end table with optional superhero accents

I painted Ryan’s end table in a slick red to match the Spiderman art piece on the front. I sprayed the finish with an HVLP sprayer. Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build Ryan’s End Table? Leave a comment below!




Power Tool Challenge – Porch & Patio Edition

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table

It is that time again, my friends – Power Tool Challenge time! This month’s theme is “Porch and Patio” and it couldn’t be a better topic with better timing! I have been working hard around my house which includes building deck though the deck will not be completed for at least another month. It certainly doesn’t stop me from building fabulous furniture for it! The DIY furniture plans to build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table feature a wood frame with round rungs at the bottom and a simple concrete top. I used a solid exterior stain on the table frame then added a stencil to the concrete top with exterior paint. It looks fabulous, if I say so myself!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table - Featured View

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table - Top View

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • 1 – 50lb bag of quick setting concrete mix
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
  • Stencil & Exterior Paint

Tools Needed:

  • Miter Saw or Circular Saw
  • Drill
  • Pocket Hole Jig
  • 1″ Forstner Bit

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1″ Round Dowels at 4′ (or 4 at 3′)
  • 1 – 1×3 at 4′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8′
  • Scrap 1x2s at approximately 24″ long – total of four

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 17-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 1×3 at 16-1/2″ – Aprons
  • 4 – 1″ dowels at 17-3/8″ – Bottom Rungs
  • 2 – 1×3 at 17-1/2″ – Top Supports

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

To construct the base:

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. With all four legs lined up against each other, drill a 1/2″ deep hole with the 1″ Forstner bit approximately 4″ up from the bottom of each leg.

Turn two of the legs over so the adjoining face is up and the holes (just drilled with the Forstner bit) face left, then turn the remaining two legs over so that the holes face to the right. Drill another hole with the Forstner bit approximately 3″ up from the bottom of each leg on the face of the leg that is pointing up.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table - Legs 1 DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table - Legs 2

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the aprons. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure one apron to one leg, positioning the apron 1/4″ back from the outside face of the leg using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Note the position of the holes on the leg to which the apron is secured… For example, if the face of the leg with the 4″ hole faces the inside (toward the apron) and the face of the leg with the 3″ hole is facing the same direction as the pocket holes (up), the opposite leg has to have the face with the 4″ hole facing in and the hole with the 3″ hole facing up. (See the drawing for clarity.)

Insert a dowel into the hole facing toward the apron, then position the other leg on the other side securing to the apron using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Create a second assembly identical to this one for the opposite side of the table.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table - Side 1

Step Three

With one of the side assemblies laying face down (pocket holes facing up), secure the remaining aprons to each of the legs, positioning them 1/4″ back from the outside faces of the legs. Insert a dowel into each of the holes, then position the remaining leg assembly on top. Secure the aprons using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table - Side 2

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table - Side 3

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the top supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to two of the aprons using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table - Top Supports

Finish the base frame as desired. I used a waterproofing exterior stain in a color named Royal Hayden which is a sort of clay-orange color. It is the same stain I used on my picnic table.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table - Finished Table Base

To construct the top:

Before the concrete is mixed up, a mold for the top will have to be built. I used scrap wood at approximately 1″ thick but I think a thicker top would have been better. 1x2s measure 1-1/2″ wide and would be perfect!

Step One

Cut two 1x2s at 20-1/2″ long and two at 22″ long. Drill a pilot hole in each end of the 22″ pieces and assemble the mold using 2-1/2″ screws with no glue.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table - Concrete Mold

Step Two

Place the mold on top of a flat surface covered with plastic (a trash bag works well) or a piece of cardboard.

Mix the concrete according to the manufacturer’s instructions. When I mixed mine it was a bit “soupy” (too much water) and that is ok because the water will evaporate but the top will take longer to dry. I added a concrete colorant (charcoal grey) to the mixing water before I added the water to the concrete mix.

Pour the concrete into the mold spreading it with a small trowel or garden shovel. Give the mold a few taps with a rubber mallet to remove any voids or air bubbles in the concrete.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table - Concrete

Step Three

Let the concrete sit in the mold until most of the water has evaporated, then carefully remove the mold. I let mine sit for about two hours before I removed the mold (yours may not have to sit as long).

Let the concrete dry and cure for a couple of days.

Once the concrete has dried, the top can be stenciled as desired. I chose to use a large flower stencil with white exterior paint.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table - Stenciled Top

Move the base frame into position on the porch or patio, then position the concrete top so that each side hangs over approximately 1/2″.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table - Front View

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table - Forward View

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table - Angled View

I love this table – it came out way better than I expected! Want to check out the awesomeness from the others in the Power Tool Challenge?

1. Long Porch Planters by My Love To Create

2. DIY Flower Pot Plant Stand by Her Tool Belt

3. DIY Easy Swinging Bed by Domestically Speaking

4. PVC Pipe Vertical Garden by Kim Six

5. How to Build An Outdoor Serving Table by Create and Babble

6. Repurposed Window Garden Shelf by Refresh Restyle

7. Trimming Out Porch Posts by My Repurposed Life

8. Stenciled Concrete Topped Table by Designs By Studio C

9. 2 X 4 DIY Bench by Virginia Sweet Pea

10. DIY Outdoor Sofa Table Tutorial by H2OBungalow

11. Repurposed Electrical Spool Holder Table by Designed Decor

12. DIY Outside Standing Plant Hanger by Confessions of A Serial DIYer

Patio and Porch Power Tool Projects from The Power Tool Challenge Team

Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Stenciled Concrete Top Table? Leave a comment below!




A New Easy to Build Table Plan

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Round Cross Base Table

This table is the perfect plan for those new to building furniture. The DIY furniture plans to build a Round Cross Base Table feature  a planked, round top mounted to a crossed base with angled legs. This plan uses straight off-the-shelf boards and can be completed in a weekend! Don’t let the angles fool you – they are super-easy!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Round Cross Base Table - Copy

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools Needed:

  • Miter saw or circular saw
  • Jigsaw
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Sander

Lumber:

  • 1 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×6 at 6′
  • 1 – 2×6 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×4 at 29-11/16″ – Legs
  • 1 – 2×4 at 14″ – Upper Base Apron
  • 1 – 2×4 at 18-3/8″ – Lower Base Apron
  • 2 – 2×4 at 6-1/4″ – Upper Base Aprons
  • 2 – 2×4 at 8-7/16″ – Lower Base Aprons
  • 5 – 2×6 at 31″ – Top
  • 2 – 2×2 at 31″ – Top

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Round Cross Base Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut a 10° angle in the top and bottom of each leg. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in the top end of each leg.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Round Cross Base Table - Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower aprons. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer aprons. Secure the longer aprons to two of the legs (see the drawing) using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Round Cross Base Table - Base 1

Step Three

Drill two pocket holes in the angled ends of the shorter aprons and one pocket hole in the straight end. Secure the aprons to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Secure the shorter leg assemblies to the longer assembly using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Round Cross Base Table - Base 2

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Round Cross Base Table - Base 3

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the top. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown in the drawing. Assemble the pieces using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Draw a 30″ circle on the top assembly using the “old school” method with a push pin, string and a pencil, then cut the top with a jigsaw.

The top can also be cut using a jig on a bandsaw.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Round Cross Base Table - Top

Step Five

Secure the base to the underside of the top using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws through the pocket holes in the top end of the legs.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Round Cross Base Table - Base 4

Finish as desired.

This table is perfect as a taller side table, or even used in an entryway. If constructed using treated wood, it would be a great addition to an outdoor “room”! Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Round Cross Base Table? Leave a comment below!




A Storage Piece with a Modern Vibe

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters

This table is not only ultra-functional – it is also an extremely easy build! The DIY furniture plans to build a Mod Storage Table on Casters features two levels of storage space for books, magazine, craft supplies, etc. all while functioning as an end table! The piece is also very inexpensive and the finish can be customized however desired!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ brad nails
  • 1-3/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • Pocket hole plugs or wood filler
  • 2″ casters
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools Needed:

  • Table saw or circular saw
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Drill
  • Iron for edge banding
  • Right angle drill attachment (for tight spaces)
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
  • Sander

Lumber:

  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 22″ x 22″ – Top, Middle & Bottom Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12″ x 22″ – Lower Shelf Divider
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-5/8″ x 12″ – Lower Shelf Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 7″ x 22″ – Upper Shelf Divider
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 7″ x 10-5/8″ – Upper Shelf Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19″ x 19″ – Lower Platform

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the top, bottom and middle shelves. Apply edge banding to cover the exposed edges of the plywood using an iron.

Step Two

Cut the piece for the longer lower shelf divider and apply edge banding to the shorter edges. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in one long edge of the piece. Secure the divider to the bottom piece using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Lower Shelves 1

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the remaining lover dividers and apply edge banding to the side edges (measuring 12″). Drill pocket holes in the bottom edge as well as one long edge treating the pieces as left and right (there will be two of each). Secure the dividers to the longer divider and the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Use a right angle drill where necessary.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Lower Shelves 2

Step Four

Secure the middle shelf to the top of the lower dividers using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Middle Shelf

Step Five

Cut the piece for the longer upper divider and apply edge banding to the side edges of the piece. Drill pocket holes along one long edge. Secure the divider to the middle shelf using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Upper Shelves 1

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the remaining upper dividers and apply edge banding to the side edges (measuring 7″). Drill pocket holes in the bottom edge as well as one long edge. Secure the dividers to the middle shelf and the longer divider using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Upper Shelves 2

Step Seven

Secure the top piece to the upper dividers using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Top

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the platform and apply edge banding to the exposed edges. Secure the piece to the underside of the bottom shelf using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Bottom Platform

Finish as desired, then install the casters according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Casters

What a great table, right? Built as a pair, they would be great nightstands in a bedroom as well! Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Mod Storage Table on Casters? Leave a comment below – I’m always happy to answer questions!