A Coffee Table Added to the Riley Collection

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table

Previously, I posted plans for the Riley End Table, a table featuring X detail at each side. The DIY plans to build a Riley Coffee Table feature the same X detail at the sides, with a shelf below. This is another excellent plan for beginners – the X detail pieces are very easy to construct plus the table can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×2 at 20″ – X Detail
  • 2 – 2×2 at 10″ – X Detail
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8-11/16″ – X Detail
  • 4 – 2×2 at 15″ – Side Framing
  • 4 – 2×2 at 19-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 33″ – Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 33″ – Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19″ x 37″ – Top

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, the framing, and the X detail. Mark the angles for the X detail by drawing a line across the board at the dimension given, then drawing another line from the corner of one end of the piece to the end of the line on the opposite side. Cut the angle using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill one pocket hole each end of the angled pieces as shown. Assemble the X detail using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing pieces to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Insert the X detail piece into the frame (trimming the angles, if necessary), then secure the X detail to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Sides 1

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Sides 2

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Sides 3

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the leg frame assemblies using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the piece for the shelf. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the shelf to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Shelf

Step Four

Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will be applied to the top before securing the top to the frame. The top will overhang each side by 1/2″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Top

Finish as desired.

The coffee table and matching end tables will make a perfect addition to any decor! They are easy to construct, and (if finished properly) would be excellent outdoors on a deck or patio! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Riley Coffee Table? Leave a comment below!




Build a Fabulous Truss Dining Table

The Castleton Dining Table Plans Will Help You Create a Gorgeous Piece of Furniture with Style!

Don’t you just love the rustic look of truss-style furniture? The Castleton dining table plans fit the bill perfectly! With striking elegance, this table will have a huge impact on style but not on the budget!

castleton dining table plans_Copy

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 2×3 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×4 at 4′
  • 3 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 7 – 2×6 at 8′
  • 2 – 4×4 at 6′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 4×4 posts at 30″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×4 at 38-1/2″ – Upper Side Frame & Center Top Supports
  • 2 – 2×3 at 38-1/2″ – Lower Side Frame
  • 2 – 2×3 at 20-1/2″ – Center Side Frame
  • 4 – 2×3 at 26-3/16″ – Truss Supports
  • 4 – 2×4 at 12″ – Top Edge Boards
  • 2 – 2×4 at 45″ – Top Edge Boards
  • 3 – 2×3 at 45″ – Top Frame & Lower Stretcher
  • 7 – 2×6 at 76″ – Top Boards

castleton dining table plans

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and side frames. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. The 2×4 upper frame pieces will be positioned 1-1/2″ down from the top edge of the legs. Secure in place using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The 2×3 lower frame pieces will be located on end with the back face flush with the inside face of the legs. Secure in place using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Position the center frame pieces and shown then secure in place using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

 castleton dining table plans_Leg Assemblies

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the truss supports. Cut 33 degree miters in each end as shown, then drill pocket holes noting that there will be a right and a left piece for each leg assembly. Secure to the frame pieces using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

 castleton dining table plans_Truss 1

castleton dining table plans_Truss 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the top edge boards. Drill pocket holes in one edge only of each of the shorter pieces and both edges of the longer pieces. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The top face of these boards will be flush with the top end of the legs.

 castleton dining table plans_Top Edge Boards

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the top frame boards and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown making sure they are snug against the top edge boards using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The inside edge will be flush with the inside face of the legs. Secure the center portion of the boards to the top edge boards using countersunk 2-1/2″ screws.

 castleton dining table plans_Top Frame

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the center top supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the top frame boards using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

 castleton dining table plans_Center Top Supports

Step Six

Cut the piece for the lower stretcher. Secure to the lower frame piece using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

castleton dining table plans_Stretcher

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the top boards. Secure to the upper frame boards and center support boards using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws through the underside.

 castleton dining table plans_Top Boards

Finish as desired.

The Castleton dining table plans will create one hefty piece of furniture! Wouldn’t it look fabulous with a dark stain? At any rate, this piece is perfect for those new to woodworking and would also be fabulous constructed from umber suitable to outdoor use!

Need help with the plans? Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




A Simple to Build Dining Table Just in Time for the Holidays!

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table

Need a dining table for holiday entertaining? This is the perfect table… The DIY plans to build an Easy Rustic Dining Table feature a planked top with stretchers at the lower portion of the legs to give it a sturdy, rustic look. The plans call for straight off-the-shelf boards and can be enhanced with metal plates found in the deck section of any home improvement retailer. I promise, this plan is easy enough to have completed in a hurry!

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Copy

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 3″ screws (lag screws can also be used for a more industrial look)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 6 – 2×4 at 6′
  • 7 – 2×6 at 8′
  • 2 – 4×4 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 4×4 at 28-1/2″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×4 at 36″ – Lower Side Stretcher
  • 2 – 2×4 at 29″ – Shorter Aprons
  • 2 – 2×4 at 73″ – Long Aprons
  • 3 – 2×4 at 32″ – Center Supports
  • 1 – 2×4 at 80″ – Lower Stretcher
  • 7 – 2×6 at 84″ – Top

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

The notches in the legs and in the lower side stretcher are completely optional. If the notches are not used, the corresponding piece or pieces will rest on top and be secured with glue and 3″ screws.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. If cutting the notch in the lower edge, it will be cut using multiple cuts on a table saw or circular saw with the center portion chiseled away. This post shows how to cut notches easily with a table saw!

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the lower side stretcher. Cut the notch, if desired, and secure the piece to the legs using glue and countersunk 3″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Lower Side Stretchers 1

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Lower Side Stretchers 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the shorter aprons. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the shorter aprons to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Position the aprons 1/2″ back from the outside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Shorter Aprons

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the long aprons and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the aprons to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Position the aprons 1/2″ back from the outside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Long Aprons

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the center supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the long apron using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Center Supports

Step Six

Cut the piece for the lower stretcher. Secure the stretcher to the lower side stretcher using glue and countersunk 3″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Lower Stretcher

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the top. The ends of the top planks will overhang by 2″ while the sides of the outermost planks will overhang by 1-1/4″. Secure the top planks in place using glue and countersunk 3″ screws through the top boards into the side aprons and the center supports.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Top

Finish as desired.

This table can be completed in a couple of days, even with finishing! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build an Easy Rustic Dining Table? Leave a comment below!




A Demilune Console Table with Bracing Detail

DIY Plans to Build a Davidson Console Table

Bracing detail,like the “X” in the DIY plans to build a Davidson Console Table, is really popular in furniture. This detail adds a sort of rustic glamour to table legs and bookcases alike! The Davidson Console Table has a demilune shaped top with three Xs in the base frame giving this table tons of style!

DIY Plans to Build a Davidson Console Table_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • 2″ Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2×3 at 4′
  • 1 – 2×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 31-1/2″ – Base Frame Legs
  • 2 – 2×3 at 40″ – Base Frame
  • 2 – 2×3 at 19-1/4″ – Base Frame Front
  • 6 – 1×2 at 17-9/16″ – X Bracing
  • 3 – 1×2 at 35-7/8″ – X Bracing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 23-1/4″ x 46-1/2″ – Top

DIY Plans to Build a Davidson Console Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the base frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 pieces. The legs will be centered on the framing pieces making them 1/2″ away from each long edge. The outer legs will also be positioned 1/2″ in from each side edge. Secure the legs in place using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Davidson Console Table_Frame 1

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the base frame front. Drill pocket holes in one end of each of the 2×3 pieces. Secure the base frame front pieces to the longer base frame pieces as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Position the remaining leg between the base frame front pieces so that there is a 1/2″ “border” around the leg. Secure in place using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Davidson Console Table_Frame 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the X bracing. Cut the pieces to length, then cut the angles. The angles in each end of the longer pieces are 26°. The angles in one end of the shorter pieces is 26° while the angle in the other end is 37°.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece as shown. Assemble the X braces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Davidson Console Table_X 1

DIY Plans to Build a Davidson Console Table_X 2

Step Four

Insert the bracing into the base frame. Secure the bracing so that it is centered on the legs (3/8″ in from each side) using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Davidson Console Table_X 3 DIY Plans to Build a Davidson Console Table_X 4

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the top. The top is constructed of two pieces of plywood, laminated together, with wide edge banding covering the edges. Cut the pieces to sie, then spread glue on the face of one piece. Position the other piece on top, wiggling it to create suction. Secure the pieces to each other using 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Cut the demilune shape using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. The radius of the arc is 23-1/4″.

Lay the top on a flat surface, then position the base frame on top of it. The base frame will be positioned 3-1/4″ in from each side of the top, and the frame will be flush with the back. Secure the base frame to the underside of the top using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Davidson Console Table_Top 1

DIY Plans to Build a Davidson Console Table_Top 2

Finish as desired.

This console table would make a welcome addition to any room – the dining room, entryway, or even behind a sofa. The angles in the X bracing may seem intimidating but they are not… This table is one of those projects that can be completed easily and quickly! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Davidson Console Table? Leave a comment below!




An Easy to Build Side Table with a Pull-Out Shelf and a Drawer

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table

This table can be used in any room in the house… It can be used as a nightstand or as a table next to a sofa or chair. The DIY furniture plans to build a Blackwell Side Table feature a pull-out shelf under the top, an open shelf area in the middle and a drawer on the bottom. This super-easy plan can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-3/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 1 set of 22″ drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls (one will be a small jewelry box pull with an attached screw)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
  • Paste wax

Tools Needed:

  • Jigsaw or bandsaw
  • Table saw
  • Iron for edge banding
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
  • Sander
  • Drawer slide jig (optional)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1″ square dowels at 3′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×4 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 26″ – Legs
  • 2 – 1×4 at 20″ – Lower Sides
  • 1 – 1×4 at 24″ – Lower Back
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 23″ x 27″ – Shelves
  • 2 – 1″ dowels at 20″ – Upper Sides
  • 1 – 1″ dowel at 24″ – Lower Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 23″ x 27″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×3 at 22″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1×3 at 21-1/2″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 21″ x 22″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 1 – 1×4 at 23-3/4″ – Drawer Front
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 21-1/2″ x 23-7/8″ – Pull-Out Shelf

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs as well as the lower sides and back. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the lower sides and back. Secure the lower sides and back to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the lower sides and back will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Lower Sides & Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the three shelves (lower, middle and upper). Cut the notches using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Secure the lower shelf to the underside of the lower back and sides using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails. Before securing the middle shelf in place, install the drawer slides on the lower sides, locating them 3/4″ back from the front face of the front legs.

Secure the middle shelf to the top of the lower sides and back using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Lower Shelf 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Lower Shelf 2

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Middle Shelf

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the upper sides and back. Drill one pocket hole in each end of each piece. Before securing the pieces to the top of the legs, lay the upper shelf on top of the middle shelf. (It may be too difficult to install the upper shelf once the upper sides and back have been secured to the legs.) Secure the upper sides and back to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Slide the upper shelf in place under the upper sides and back securing in place using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Upper Sides & Back

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Upper Shelf

Step Four

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Top

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box front and back pieces on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Drawer 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Drawer 2

Step Six

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Drawer 3

Step Seven

Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box front to the drawer box sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Install the other half of the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Drawer 4

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the drawer front. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Drawer Front

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the slide-out shelf. Insert into the opening under the top.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Slide Out

Finish as desired. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the slide-out shelf to allow the shelf to slide smoothly in the opening.

If the table is going to be stained, I would recommend cutting the drawer front, upper sides and back, and legs out of plywood so that the wood species is consistent. Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Blackwell Side Table? Leave a comment below!




Build a Geneva Corner Table

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table – the Perfect Project for Beginners!

Here a plans for a table that is super simple to build… I can see it with a stenciled top and shelf! The DIY plans to build a Geneva corner table are easy to construct and feature a false drawer front making this the perfect project for those who want to try woodworking!

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-1/2″ x 29″ – Lower Shelf
  • 3 – 2×2 at 27-1/4″ – Legs
  • 1 – 1×6 at 29″ – Front Stretcher
  • 2 – 1×6 at 21-3/8″ – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-3/4″ x 33-1/2″ – Top
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 3-1/2″ x 14″ – False Drawer Front

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the piece for the shelf. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes as shown.

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table_Shelf

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the legs. Secure the shelf to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table_Legs

Step Three

Cut the piece for the front stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front stretcher will be located 1/4″ back from the front face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table_Front Stretcher

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and cut a 45° bevel at each end. Position on the legs so the stretchers are located 1/4″ back from the outside face of the legs. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table_Side Stretchers

Step Five

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang the front by 3/4″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table_Top 1 DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table_Top 2

Step Six

Cut the piece for the false drawer front. Position on the front stretcher as shown securing in place with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Geneva Corner Table_False Drawer Front

Finish as desired.

A pair of the Geneva corner tables would be great in a living room or even in a small bedroom! If there are any questions about the DIY plans to build a Geneva corner table, leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Burlington Dining Table with Top Options

An Easy to Build Table with a Customizable Top – DIY Plans to Build a Burlington Dining Table

In the market for a new dining table? The DIY plans to build a Burlington dining table are super-easy to construct making it an ideal project for those new to woodworking, plus the top is completely customizable! The boards can run the length of the table, the width of the table, in a herringbone pattern, or create your own design!

DIY Plans to Build a Burlington Dining Table_Copy

There is no lumber listed for the top in the lumber list or the cut list. The amount of lumber will depend on the design you choose to create!

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×4 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 2 – 4×4 posts at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 4×4 posts at 28-1/2″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×4 at 25″ – Aprons
  • 2 – 2×4 at 62″ – Aprons
  • 3 – 2×4 at 25″ – Center Supports
  • 2 – 2×2 at 25″ – Top Supports
  • 4 – 2×2 at 13-5/8″ – Top Supports
  • 4 – 2×2 at 15-1/8″ – Top Supports
  • 2 – 2×4 at 35″ – Top Frame
  • 2 – 2×4 at 72″ – Top Frame
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 28″ x 65″ – Top Base
  • Pieces for the top design

DIY Plans to Build a Burlington Dining Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and the aprons. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ materials, drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons as well as one long edge of each piece to attach the top. Secure the aprons to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Make sure that the pocket hole in the long edges face up!

DIY Plans to Build a Burlington Dining Table_Frame

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the center supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the longer aprons as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Burlington Dining Table_Center Supports

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the top frame. Cut the miters in each end at 45° maintaining the overall length dimensions. Drill pocket holes in the miters, and assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Position the frame so that 2″ overhangs on each side (the inside will be flush with the inside face of each apron) securing in place with glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws through the aprons into the underside of the frame.

DIY Plans to Build a Burlington Dining Table_Top Frame

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the top supports. Secure to the inside of the aprons as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ screws. The top face of the supports will be flush with the top face of the center supports.

DIY Plans to Build a Burlington Dining Table_Top Supports

Step Five

Cut the piece for the top base. Position inside the top frame securing to the top supports and the center supports using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Burlington Dining Table_Top Base

Step Six

Here is the fun part… Using any wood species and wood type (plywood or solid wood), create the table top. The drawings below are examples of different designs that can be created for the top, though you may have your own ideas! A second sheet of 3/4″ plywood can also be added then a pattern or stripes can be stained or painted on it. Pallet boards can also be used, provided they are 3/4″ thick! The top can also be constructed out of tile!

DIY Plans to Build a Burlington Dining Table_Copy 3

DIY Plans to Build a Burlington Dining Table_Copy 2

Finish as desired!

The DIY plans to build a Burlington dining table are fun, right? I think it is the top that will make the table a unique piece! Have any questions about the plans? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Free Plans to Build a Vintage Console with Drawers

This piece is one of those tables that would look great with a vintage, weathered finish! Chippy peeling paint and worn spots… How fabulous! It would also be a great way to test out different colors of paint so that there are many “layers” on it which adds to the vintage look! Plus, as usual it is a quick and easy build!

 Console

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 16″ drawer slides
  • Edge banding, if desired
  • Drawer pulls
  • Finishing supplies

Lumber:

  • 1 – 2×2 at6′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 4′
  • 1 sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 31-1/4″ – Legs
  • 6 – 1×2 at 15″ – Side Panels & Drawer Spacers
  • 2 – 1×4 (ripped to 3″ wide) at 15″ – Side Panels
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/2″ x 15″ – Side Panels
  • 4 – 1×2 at 45″ – Back Panel & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/2″ x 45″ – Back Panel
  • 1 – 1×2 at 10-1/2″ – Divider
  • 1 – 2×2 at 16-1/2″ – Center Spacer
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 60″ – Top
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 6″ x 12″ – Brackets
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-1/4″ x 19-1/4″ – Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 9-1/2″ x 15-1/4″ – Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 9-1/2″ x 20-3/4″ – Drawer Backs
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/4″ x 21-1/2″ – Drawer Fronts

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Note:  The side panels will be longer than the position of the lower stretcher on the front and the overall height of the back panel.

 

1. Cut the pieces for the legs and side panels. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 Console_Sides

2. Cut the pieces for the back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then attach to the legs.

 Console_Back Panel

3. Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Console_Front Stretchers

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 Console_Divider

4. Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers and drill pocket holes in each end. The 1×2 pieces will be located at the sides while the 2×2 will be located in the center. Attach using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws in the side pieces, and 2″ pocket hole screws in the center piece.

 Console_Spacers

5. Cut the piece for the top. The sides will hang over by 6″ and the front will overlap by 1/2″. Secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

 Console_Top

6. Cut the pieces for the brackets and cut the arc with a jigsaw. Drill a couple of pocket holes in the longer edge – there will be two right pieces and two left pieces! Position under the top and secure with glue and 1-1/4″ pocket holes into the legs. A couple of brad nails through the top into the top of the brackets will help secure them also!

Console_Brackets 1

Console_Brackets 2

7. Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8″ on each side.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Console_Drawer BS

Console_Drawer FB

Console_Drawer Fronts

Finish as desired!

 

Have a request for a plan? Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com or designsbystudioc {at} gmail {dot} com. I would love to create a plan for you!

Until next time,

Happy Creating!




A New Plan for a Fabulous Ballard Designs Inspired Table

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Knock-Off Hudson Dining Table

This table, inspired by a table in the Ballard Designs catalog, is seriously easy to build! The DIY furniture plans to build a knock-off Hudson Dining Table feature a double layered plywood top, with a base featuring black pipe and X legs. This top is an easy build, even for those new to furniture building and can be completed in a weekend!

diy-furniture-plans-build-knock-off-hudson-dining-table-copy-1-copy

diy-furniture-plans-build-knock-off-hudson-dining-table-copy-2

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1″ angle brackets with screws, optional
  • 2″ edge banding, optional
  • Contact cement
  • 2 – 3/4″ black pipe caps
  • 2 – 3/4″ x 3″ black pipe nipples
  • 2 – 3/4″ black pipe couplers
  • 1 – 3/4″ black pipe cut to custom length of approximately 57″ (measure before cutting)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools needed:

  • Table saw or circular saw
  • Miter saw
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • 3/4″ hole saw or paddle bit
  • Sander

Lumber:

  • 4 – 2×3 at 8′ OR
  • 2 – 2×6 at 8′ ripped in half
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×3 at 42-13/16″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×3 at 17-3/16″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×3 at 22-15/16″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×3 at 21″ – Base (X Leg Connector)
  • 2 – 2×3 at 59″ – Base (Aprons)
  • 2 – 2×3 at 20″ – Top Supports
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 42″ x 72″ – Top

diy-furniture-plans-build-knock-off-hudson-dining-table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes about the project:

All angles on the legs and base (X leg connectors) are cut at 45°.

The pieces for the top are laminated to each other using contact cement. The edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood top prior to assembly.

The top can be secured to the base using 1″ angle brackets or by drilling pocket holes in the aprons and X leg connectors, then using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

The black pipe can be spray painted any color after cleaning with mineral spirits to remove any special coating on the pipe.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs as shown in the drawing. Using a drill with a 3/4″ hole saw or paddle bit, drill a hole through each longer leg as shown.

Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in the square end of the shorter legs. The shorter pieces will be secured to the longer pieces using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

diy-furniture-plans-build-knock-off-hudson-dining-table-base-1

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the X leg connectors on the base. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces in the miters as shown in the drawing, then secure to the top of the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

diy-furniture-plans-build-knock-off-hudson-dining-table-base-2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the aprons and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the aprons to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws so that the top edges are flush and the bottom outside edge of the apron meets the edge of the leg. This means the angle of the legs may extend past the apron – see drawing. If using pocket hole screws to attach the top to the base, drill the holes in the aprons and the X leg connectors.

diy-furniture-plans-build-knock-off-hudson-dining-table-aprons

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the top supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the aprons using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

diy-furniture-plans-build-knock-off-hudson-dining-table-top-supports

Step Five

Apply a coat of contact cement to one face of each plywood piece for the top, according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Once the cement is dry, align the plywood pieces so the faces with contact cement are facing each other and pace them together. Apply pressure to make sure the faces make contact, then apply the edge banding.

Secure the base to the underside of the top using pocket hole screws or 1″ angle brackets.diy-furniture-plans-build-knock-off-hudson-dining-table-top

 

Flip the table over, then finish as desired.

Step Six

For the pipe connector (this keeps the legs from splaying out), clean and paint as desired. Add the couplers to each end of the longer pipe. Add the pipe nipples through the holes in the legs and into the opposite end of the couplers (the longer pipe will be in the middle). Add the caps to the pipe nipples on the outside of the legs.

diy-furniture-plans-build-knock-off-hudson-dining-table-pipe-fittings

This table can be finished in any way you choose – painted, stained, stenciled, etc. – and will look fabulous! Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a knock-off Hudson Dining Table? Leave a comment below!




DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Tatum Trestle Counter Table

A New Knock-Off Furniture Plan for a Dining Table

This quick to build table is very inexpensive and is a great way to showcase your awesome building skills! The DIY furniture plans to build a Ballard Designs Inspired Tatum Trestle Counter Table is built using 2x4s, 4x4s and a double layer of plywood for the top making for a super fabulous counter-height table! This table is the perfect project for those new to furniture building and can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Tatum Trestle Counter Table-copy-1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Tatum Trestle Counter Table-copy-2

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • 3″ screws
  • 4 – 5″ x 3/8″ lag screws
  • 2″ wide edge banding
  • Contact cement
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools Needed:

  • Miter saw or circular saw
  • Table saw (to rip plywood – most home improvement centers will do this for you)
  • Drill
  • 3/8″ drill bit for the lag screws
  • 3/8″ socket wrench for the lag screws
  • Iron and cutter for edge banding
  • Sander

Lumber:

  • 2 – 2×4 at 6′
  • 2 – 4×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×4 at 30″ – Top & Bottom Supports
  • 4 – 2×4 at 5″ – Bottom Support Feet
  • 1 – 4×4 at 30″ – Leg
  • 8 – 4×4 at 13-13/16″ – Bracing
  • 1 – 4×4 at 29″ – Center Bracing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 30″ x 48″ – Top

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Tatum Trestle Counter Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes About the Project:

Mending plates can be used on the outside of the joints of each leg assembly for a more industrial look to the table!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the top and bottom supports, as well as the bottom support feet. Cut a 45° bevel in each end of the support pieces as well as one end of each support foot.

Secure the feet to the bottom support using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws. Refer to the drawing for placement.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Tatum Trestle Counter Table-bottom-support

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the legs. Secure the legs to the center of each bottom support using glue and countersunk 3″ (or longer, if desired) screws.

Secure the top support to the top of the leg as indicated in the drawing using glue and countersunk 3″ (or longer, if desired) screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Tatum Trestle Counter Table-leg

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Tatum Trestle Counter Table-top-support

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the bracing and cut 45° angles in each end. Secure the bracing pieces to the top and bottom supports, and legs as shown in the drawing securing in place using glue and toenailed 3″ screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Tatum Trestle Counter Table-bracing

Step Four

Cut the piece for the center brace. Mark the position for the center brace on the legs and pre-drill the holes for the lag screws using a 3/8″ drill bit. Insert the lag screws and secure the center brace using the 3/8″ socket wrench. The lag screws can be spray painted prior to securing them to the leg assemblies.

 

Finish the leg base as desired.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Tatum Trestle Counter Table-center

Step Five

Cut the plywood pieces for the top. Apply contact cement to one face of each piece and let it dry. With a helper, flip one piece over and position on top of the other piece. Make sure the pieces line up before letting the contact cement surfaces touch. Press down on the pieces to make sure the surfaces make contact. Apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood.

Finish the top as desired.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Tatum Trestle Counter Table-top-1

Step Six

Position the top face down on a flat surface. Position the the leg base assembly upside down, on the underside of the table top then secure in place using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Tatum Trestle Counter Table-top-2

With the holidays coming up, this table is a quick solution to adding extra table space for entertaining! Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Ballard Designs Inspired Tatum Trestle Counter Table? Leave a comment below!