A Bench Perfect for an Entryway or Mudroom

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee

This settee is the perfect option for storage in an entryway or mudroom. The DIY plans to build a Storage Settee features a high back with coat hooks, as well as three drawers under the seat. The plans for the settee are quick and easy, as well as fairly inexpensive.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ screws
  • 3″ screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 3 sets of 18″ drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Coat hooks
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 7 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×4 at 6′
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×4 at 60″ – Back Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 18-1/2″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/4″ – x 18-1/2″ – Side Panels
  • 4 – 2×2 at 51″ – Back Framing & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/4″ -x 51″ – Lower Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 51″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 2×2 at 10-1/4″ – Front Dividers
  • 2 – 2×2 at 18-1/2″ – Drawer Slide Spacers
  • 2 – 2×2 at 18-1/2″ – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/4″ x 51 – Seat Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18-1/2″ – Seat Side Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 51″ – Seat Front & Back Trim
  • 2 – 2×2 at 20-1/2″ – Arms
  • 2 – 2×2 at 36″ – Upper Back Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 51″ – Upper Back Framing
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 36″ – Upper Back Panels
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 9″ x 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 9″ x 15″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 15-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the 2×4 pieces for the back legs to length. Draw the legs on the 2×4 pieces, then cut out using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Back Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the side framing and the front legs. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces as well as one end of the front legs. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The pocket holes in the front legs will face the back legs. Remember – there will be a right side and a left side!

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Position the panels inside the framing securing with glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the side framing.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Sides

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and the back framing. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers and the framing pieces. Secure the back framing to the back legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the back panel. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Position the panel inside the framing securing with glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the back framing.

Secure the front stretchers to the front legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Back

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Front Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the bottom panel to the lower framing and lower front stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Bottom

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the front dividers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the dividers. Secure the dividers to the front stretchers using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. A close-quarter drill or right angle attachment may be needed for the tight space.

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide spacers and drill pocket holes in one end only. Secure the spacers to the front dividers using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Secure the back of the spacers using countersunk 1-1/2″ screws through the back panel.

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the upper front stretcher and the upper back framing using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Front Dividers

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Drawer Slide Supports

 

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Seat Supports

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the seat panel and the seat trim. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure the trim as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Note that the side trim pieces are shorter than the seat panel. This will allow the front of the seat to overhang the frame.

Position the seat as shown securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the seat.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Seat 1

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Seat 2

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the arms. Cut a 3° angle in on end of each piece. This edge will be secured to the back legs using glue and countersunk 3″ screws through the back leg into the back of the arm. Secure the arm to the front legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. A close-quarter drill or right angle attachment may be needed for the tight space.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Arms 1

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Arms 2

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the back framing. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing to the back legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the upper back panels. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the panels to the back framing as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The panels are positioned 1/4″ back from the front face of the back framing.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Back Framing

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Back Panels

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the front legs and dividers. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Drawer FB

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Drawer Fronts

Finish as desired. Install the coat hooks on the back panels. The hooks are completely optional!

The settee would look great in any room, in any finish! the hooks and drawers make the settee the perfect place to store coats, backpacks, and shoes! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Storage Settee? Leave a comment below!




Build an Easy and Awesome Crate

Free DIY Woodworking Plans for a Plywood Multi-Use Crate

Looking for a quick and easy weekend project? I’ve got just the project for you! A multitude of these crates can be whipped out in a weekend… Use them for storing logs by the fireplace, books and magazines, corral wayward school supplies, etc. Plus, in true DbSC form, they are virtual blank slates to be finished however you choose – why not use pallet boards for the front and back pieces? Or maybe sand, distress, then stencil the crate? How about leaving the wood in its natural color then applying paste wax to protect it? The possibilities are endless and I plan on constructing a few of these beauties for myself!

free DIY woodworking plans for a plywood multi use crate_Copy

Materials:

  • 1″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • 1″ hole saw or spade bit
  • Jigsaw
  • Finishing supplies

Lumber:

  • 1 full sheet of 1/2″ plywood should yield three crates (another project perfect for PureBond plywood!!)

Cut List:

  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 15-1/4″ x 20-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 11″ x 15-1/4″ – Sides
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 11″ x 22-1/2″ – Front & Back
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 3-1/2″ x 16-1/4″ – Bottom Runners

free DIY woodworking plans for a plywood multi use crate

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the piece for the bottom. Using a table saw, cut a 2 degree bevel in each shorter end. This will allow the sides to sit at an angle and match the angle of the front and back pieces.

free DIY woodworking plans for a plywood multi use crate_Bottom 

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut a 2 degree angle in the bottom edges. Mark the position for the handles. They will measure 1″ high by 6″ wide on center (actual measurement including “circles” will measure 7″). Using the 1″ hole saw or spade bit, cut two 1″ circles. Connect the circles at the top and bottom by drawing a line, then cutting along the line with a jigsaw. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1″ brad nails.

free DIY woodworking plans for a plywood multi use crate_Sides 

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front and back as shown. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1″ brad nails.

free DIY woodworking plans for a plywood multi use crate_Front & Back 

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the bottom runners. Attach to the bottom of the crate using glue and 1″ brad nails.

free DIY woodworking plans for a plywood multi use crate_Feet 

Finish as desired!

Put these free DIY woodworking plans for a plywood Multi-Use Crate to good use – these are fabulous crates to use for firewood, coralling toys, or even laundry!  Do you plan on building a crate or two? Share it with me when you’re finished!! I’d love to see the final results – cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com




An Easy to Build Side Table with a Pull-Out Shelf and a Drawer

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table

This table can be used in any room in the house… It can be used as a nightstand or as a table next to a sofa or chair. The DIY furniture plans to build a Blackwell Side Table feature a pull-out shelf under the top, an open shelf area in the middle and a drawer on the bottom. This super-easy plan can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-3/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 1 set of 22″ drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls (one will be a small jewelry box pull with an attached screw)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
  • Paste wax

Tools Needed:

  • Jigsaw or bandsaw
  • Table saw
  • Iron for edge banding
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
  • Sander
  • Drawer slide jig (optional)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1″ square dowels at 3′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×4 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 26″ – Legs
  • 2 – 1×4 at 20″ – Lower Sides
  • 1 – 1×4 at 24″ – Lower Back
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 23″ x 27″ – Shelves
  • 2 – 1″ dowels at 20″ – Upper Sides
  • 1 – 1″ dowel at 24″ – Lower Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 23″ x 27″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×3 at 22″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1×3 at 21-1/2″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 21″ x 22″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 1 – 1×4 at 23-3/4″ – Drawer Front
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 21-1/2″ x 23-7/8″ – Pull-Out Shelf

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs as well as the lower sides and back. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the lower sides and back. Secure the lower sides and back to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the lower sides and back will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Lower Sides & Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the three shelves (lower, middle and upper). Cut the notches using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Secure the lower shelf to the underside of the lower back and sides using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails. Before securing the middle shelf in place, install the drawer slides on the lower sides, locating them 3/4″ back from the front face of the front legs.

Secure the middle shelf to the top of the lower sides and back using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Lower Shelf 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Lower Shelf 2

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Middle Shelf

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the upper sides and back. Drill one pocket hole in each end of each piece. Before securing the pieces to the top of the legs, lay the upper shelf on top of the middle shelf. (It may be too difficult to install the upper shelf once the upper sides and back have been secured to the legs.) Secure the upper sides and back to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Slide the upper shelf in place under the upper sides and back securing in place using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Upper Sides & Back

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Upper Shelf

Step Four

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Top

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box front and back pieces on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Drawer 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Drawer 2

Step Six

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Drawer 3

Step Seven

Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box front to the drawer box sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Install the other half of the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Drawer 4

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the drawer front. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Drawer Front

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the slide-out shelf. Insert into the opening under the top.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Blackwell Side Table-Slide Out

Finish as desired. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the slide-out shelf to allow the shelf to slide smoothly in the opening.

If the table is going to be stained, I would recommend cutting the drawer front, upper sides and back, and legs out of plywood so that the wood species is consistent. Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Blackwell Side Table? Leave a comment below!




Free Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Shelton Kitchen Island

Today’s plans are for a spacious mobile work space sure to add much needed space and organization to any kitchen! It can be moved to any area thanks to the casters and can also be constructed from weather-resistant materials for outside use! Notes or recipes can be left on the chalkboard mounted to the front of the island. The chalkboard can be replaced with a dry erase board if desired!

Island

Island_Front

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 3/4″ brad nails
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • Four 4″ casters
  • Finishing supplies

Lumber:

  •  6 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 3 sheets of 3/4″ plywood
  • 2 – 8′ pieces of casing (trim under top)
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ chalkboard or dry erase panel
  • Approximately 5 pieces of 8′ trim for the writing surface frame and side frames

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 24″ – Base Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 49″ – Base Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 21″ – Base Frame
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 26″ x 54″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 24-1/2″ x 29-1/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 29-1/4″ x 54″ – Back
  • 2 – 1×2 at 24-1/2″ – Shelf Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 51″ – Shelf Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 23″ – Shelf Frame
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 24-1/2″ x 52-1/2″ – Shelf
  • 2 – 1×2 at 29-1/4″ – Front Body Frame
  • 1 – 1×2 at 51″ – Front Body Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 24-1/2″ – Top Supports
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 26-1/2″ x 55-1/2″ – Top
  • 1 – Chalkboard or Dry Erase panel at 18″ x 42″
  • Trim pieces for the front and sides – measurements will depend on the type of trim chosen

 

Click on the drawings to enlarge them!

1. Cut the pieces for the base frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces, as well as the center pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 Island_Base Frame

2. Cut the piece for the bottom. Attach the frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws through the bottom piece into the frame.

 Island_Bottom

3. Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes as shown. Position the side pieces so it is centered on the bottom piece with 3/4″ of the bottom left on each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 Island_Sides

4. Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes at the top and bottom edges. Position as shown and secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 Island_Back

5. Cut the pieces for the shelf frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces as well as each end of the center support pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Position the frame in the cabinet and secure using countersunk 1-1/4″ screws through the frame into the sides and back. The frame will be located 3/4″ back from the front edge of the sides.

Cut the piece for the shelf. Attach to the frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws or 1-1/4″ brad nails.

 Island_Shelf Frame 1

Island_Shelf Frame 2

Island_Shelf

6. Cut the pieces for the front body frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the upper frame piece. Secure the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the entire frame to the front of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Island_Front Body Frame

7. Cut the pieces for the top supports and drill pocket holes in each edge. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Island_Top Supports

8. Cut the piece for the top. Position on the cabinet and secure using glue and 1-1/4″pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides and back into the underside of the top. The top will overlap the sides and front by 3/4″.

Island_Top

9. Cut the piece for the writing surface. Center it on the front and secure using 3/4″ brad nails. Cut the trim of your choice to make a frame around the writing surface and secure with 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Create the frames for the sides and secure using 1-1/4″ brad nails. Cut and apply the trim under the top starting with the sides, then add the front piece. Secure using 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Island_Chalkboard

Island_Front Frame

Island_Side Frame

Finish as desired and add the casters to the bottom.

Got a project you’ve completed using my plans? Share photos with me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com or designsbystudioc {at} gmail {dot} com. I would love to feature your work on DbSC!

Until next time,

Happy Creating!




Build a Wine Bottle Gift Box

Easy Plans to Build a Wood Wine Gift Box Perfect for Holiday Gift-Giving!

It is not too early to think about the holidays… This little wood gift box is perfect for sharing a bottle of your favorite wine, champagne, or sparkling soda complete with a couple of glasses, as well as a bit of cheese and a few crackers. It would also work well to transport a bottle and glasses on a romantic picnic! The stemware holder can be omitted and the box could hold three bottles of wine or champagne, or maybe even a few special hot sauces. I am planning on building a couple out of oak Purebond plywood using the glue resist technique on the front for a special touch!

build wine bottle gift box_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 3/4″ hole saw or paddle bit
  • 1 set of hinges
  • 1 drawer pull or utility handle
  • 1 small hasp lock
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 quarter sheet of 1/2″ plywood (2′ x 4′)

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 12-1/4″ – Box Sides
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 13-1/4″ – Box Top & Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 12-1/4″ x 12-1/4″ – Box & Lid Panel
  • 4 – 1/2″ plywood at 3-5/8″ x 4″ – Stemware Holder & Shelf
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 4″ x 12-1/4″ – Dividers
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 12-1/4″ – Lid Sides
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 13-1/4″ – Lid Top & Bottom

build wine bottle gift box

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes:

Sand each piece thoroughly before assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the box. Use glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails to attach the box sides to the panel, then secure the top and bottom.

diy wood wine gift box_Box

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the stemware holder. Make a mark as indicated on the pieces. Cut a 3/4″ hole using a hole saw or a paddle bit. Draw a line from the outside edge of the circle to the bottom of the piece (on each side of the circle) to cut the notch for the stemware holder. Cut the lines using a jigsaw, then sand smooth.

diy wood wine gift box_Stem Holder

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the shelves and the dividers. Secure the shelves and the stemware holders to the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Note that there will be a right and a left piece. Secure the pieces in the box using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

diy wood wine gift box_Dividers 1

 

diy wood wine gift box_Dividers 2

 

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the lid. Assemble the lid in the same manner as the box. Finish as desired then install the hinges, the handle, and the hasp lock.

diy wood wine gift box_Door 1

 

diy wood wine gift box_Door 2

How excited will your family and friends be when you show off your DIY skills to build this wood wine gift box? It is the perfect project for all skill levels!




Free Plans to Build a Joss & Main Inspired Chesterton Wine Holder

Free Plans to Build a Chesterton Wine Holder

Need another quick and easy project? Look no further! This wine holder is inexpensive and the best part is that it is stackable! Oh yeah! How fabulous is that??

Free Plans to Build a Chesterton Wine Holder

Joss & Main Inspired Chesterton Wine Holder

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Finishing supplies

Lumber:

Lumber list is material to make ONE holder…

  • One quarter sheet of 3/4″ plywood (2′ x 4′) OR pallet wood pieced together using pocket holes and pocket screws
  • One 1×6 at 4′
  • One 1×4 at 4′

Cut List:

  • One – 3/4″ plywood at 21″ x 35″ – Front & Back
  • 3 – 1×4 at 15″ – Spacers
  • 2 – 1×6 at 15″ – Sides

 

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

 

1. For the front and back, it will be easier to cut all of the holes in one panel, then cut it apart. I  know, it is tedious (sorry!) but trust me on this! Mark the position for the holes on the panel. The holes will be cut using a 4″ hole saw and will be spaced at 5″ on center. 

Once all of the holes have been cut, the panel will be cut apart to create the front and back. Make the first cuts at 2-1/2″ from each of the shorter edges through the center of the first and last rows of holes. Cut the panel apart at the center (the fourth row of holes) so that the panels measure approximately 15″ tall.

Free Plans to Build a Chesterton Wine Holder_FB

2. Cut the pieces for the spacers. Position them as shown with the top located 1″ above the top of the front and back (so they will fit inside another holder if stacking them), and secure each piece with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Free Plans to Build a Chesterton Wine Holder_Supports

3. Cut the pieces for the sides. Position the sides with the top located 1″ above the top of the front and back (in the same manner as the spacers), and so that the sides overlap by 1/4″. Secure using glue and brad nails.

Free Plans to Build a Chesterton Wine Holder_Sides

Finish as desired!

Have a request for a plan? Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com or designsbystudioc {at} gmail {dot} com. I would love to create a plan for you!

Until next time,

Happy Creating

#DIY #woodworking #build