A Beautiful Sideboard with Faux Paneled Doors

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard

This sideboard is the perfect piece for those who like large pieces with tons of storage. The DIY plans to build a Long Paneled Sideboard feature four doors with narrow trim on the front, shelves inside, and a drawer in the center space. This piece measures six feet long and can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Copy

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1/2″ screws
  • Edge banding
  • 1 set of 16″Drawer slides
  • 4 sets of hinges
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×4 at 8′
  • 3 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 3 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood
  • 8 – 1/4″ thick x 1/2″ wide trim at 8′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 5-1/2″ – Base Legs
  • 5 – 2×2 at 16″ – Base Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 69″ – Base Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 19″ x 30-3/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 30-3/4″ x 70-1/2″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/4″ x 70-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/4″ x 30″ – Dividers
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-1/4″ x 17-1/4″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-1/4″ x 34-1/2″ – Center Shelf
  • 2 – 1×2 at 17-1/4″ – Stretchers
  • 1 – 1×2 at 34-1/2″ – Center Stretcher
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19″ x 72″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×4 at 14-1/2″ – Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 1×4 at 32″ – Drawer Front & Back
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 14-7/8″ x 30-7/8″ – Drawer Bottom
  • 4 – 1/2″ plywood at 17″ x 29″ – Door Base
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 17″ – Center Filler
  • Trim pieces cut to fit

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the base framing and the legs. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Assemble the base as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Base

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in the lower edge only. Secure the sides to the base frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside face of the side will be flush with the outside edge of the base.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Sides

Step Three

Cut the piece for the back, and drill pocket holes in the side and lower edges. Secure the back to the base and the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Back

Step Four

Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure the bottom to the base between the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Bottom

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the dividers, and drill pocket holes in the back and lower edges only. Secure the dividers to the bottom and back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Dividers

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the shelves, and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges only. Secure the outer shelves to the side, divider, and back of the outer (narrower) cubbies as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The shelves will be positioned 1″ back from the front edge of the sides and dividers, making it flush with the back. This is to allow for the doors.

The center shelf will be positioned slightly lower than the outer shelves to allow room for the drawer. This shelf will also be positioned 1″ back from the front edge of the dividers, making it flush with the back. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Shelves

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the sides and dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Stretchers

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The top will be flush with the cabinet on all sides.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Top

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers. The spacers will allow the drawer to open and close without interference from the doors. Secure the spacers in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. These pieces will be located 1/4″ below the stretcher, and 1″ back from the front edge of the dividers.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Drawer Spacers

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the drawers. A 1/4″ wide x 1/4″ deep groove will be cut in the lower edge of each piece to create a channel for the drawer bottom. This can be done using a straight bit on a router, or by lowering the blade on a table saw and making two passes through.

Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces, opposite of the channels. When drilling the pocket holes, locate them so they will not interfere with the channels. Secure the sides to the back piece using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom and slide the bottom into the channels. It should be a semi-snug fit, and should fit easily. Place the drawer front piece over the assembly with the bottom in the channel and secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Install the drawer slides on the drawer and on the spacers, then adjust as necessary. The drawer should be positioned 1/4″ below the stretcher and should move easily.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Drawer Sides & Back 1

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Drawer Sides & Back 2

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Drawer Bottom

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Drawer Front

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Drawer in Cabinet

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the doors. The plans are drawn using 1/4″ thick x 1/2″ wide trim. The dimensions in the drawing for the trim are approximate, and the trim should be cut to fit. Wider trim can also be used.

Secure the trim pieces using glue and clamp in place. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls as desired.

One of the center doors will have a filler secured to the back to hide the center gap. The filler can go on either side and will be secured using glue and 1/2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Doors 1

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Center Filler

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Doors 2

Finish as desired.

This sideboard is an excellent piece for storing linens and china, and can also be used to store backpacks and shoes in an entryway! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Long Paneled Sideboard? Leave a comment below!




A Cabinet Created by Combining Two Different Plans

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet

I was contacted by a reader who asked if I could create plans for a cabinet combining the Esmerelda Buffet and the Myron Sideboard. The reader liked the drawers on one cabinet and the doors on the other, so I combined the two to create the DIY plans to build a Doyle Cabinet! The cabinet features three drawers, two cabinets with doors and X detail, and an open center cabinet with an adjustable shelf. The top is a plywood panel with solid wood edges so that a decorative edge can be cut with a router.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  •  2 pieces of glass, Plexiglas or acrylic at 14-1/4″ x 23-3/4″
  • Mirror clips
  • 4 – 1/4″ shelf pins
  • 3 sets of 16″ drawer slides
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 2 magnetic catches
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 1 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 4 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 3 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 41-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 16″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 34-1/4″ – Side Panels
  • 5 – 2×2 at 56″ – Back Framing & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 34-1/4″ x 56″ – Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 56″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 2×2 at 5-3/4″ – Divider Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 27″ – Divider Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 35-3/4″ – Divider Panels
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 18″ – Center Drawer Shelf
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 18-1/4″ – Outer Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-1/2″ x 17-3/4″ – Adjustable Center Shelf
  • 2 – 1×2 at 16″ – Drawer Slide Spacers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 57″ – Top Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 17″ – Top Side Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 60″ – Top Front & Back Trim
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 15 – Outer Drawer Box Bottom
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 14″ – Outer Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 16-1/2″ – Outer Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 15-1/2″ – Center Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 14″ – Center Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 17″ – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 17-1/4″ – Outer Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 17-3/4″ – Center Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1×2 at 25″ – X Detail
  • 4 – 1×2 at 12-1/8″ – X Detail
  • 4 – 1×3 at 12-1/4″ – Door Frame
  • 4 – 1×3 at 26-3/4″ – Door Frame

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side framing, and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material, and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the side panels. Secure the panels to the framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the framing and legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the back framing, the front stretchers, and the back panel. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the framing and stretcher pieces. Secure the framing to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material, and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back panel. Secure the panel to the framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the framing and legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Back

Step Three

Secure the front stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Front Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the bottom will be flush with the top face of the lowest stretcher.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Bottom

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the divider framing. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the divider framing pieces. Secure the framing to the front stretchers using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Divider Framing

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material, and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges of the divider panels. On the opposite side of the panels, mark the position of the shelf pins then use a shelf pin jig and a 1/4″ shelf pin drill bit to drill the holes. More holes can be drilled as desired.

Secure the divider panels to the center framing with the shelf pin holes facing the center of the cabinet. This face (of each panel) will also be flush with the center facing edge of the divider framing. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Dividers 1

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Dividers 2

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the center drawer shelf and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the shelf to the middle front stretcher, the dividers, and the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Center Drawer Shelf

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the outer shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the back edges. Secure the shelves to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Outer Shelves

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the center shelf. Insert the shelf pins into the holes then place the shelf on the pins.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Center Shelf

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide spacers. These pieces will be located just above the middle front stretcher, and will be secured to the divider panels using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Drawer Slide Spacers

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the top panel and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in each end of the top side trim pieces as well as all four edges of the top panel. Secure the side trim pieces to the panel first using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then secure the front and pack trim pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

The top will overhang the cabinet by 1/2″ on all sides. Spread glue on the top of the framing pieces, the upper front stretcher, and the dividers the position the top. Secure in place using 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Top 1

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Top 2

Step Twelve

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs and divider framing. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Outer Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Outer Drawer FB

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Center Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Center Drawer FB

Step Thirteen

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Drawer Fronts

Step Fourteen

Cut the pieces for the X detail pieces. Cut the angles as shown in the drawing and drill pocket holes in the angled edges. One pocket hole in each angled edge will be sufficient if two pocket holes will not fit. Assemble the X detail pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_X Detail 1

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_X Detail 2

Step Fifteen

Cut the pieces for the door frames and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Insert the X detail pieces into the frame and make adjustments to the angles as necessary. Secure the X detail pieces in the center of the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Position the glass, Plexiglass or acrylic over the inside of the frame and secure in place with mirror clips.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Doors 1

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Doors 2

Step Sixteen

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the doors in the openings. Install the cabinet pulls, then install the magnetic catches to keep the doors closed.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Doors 3

Finish as desired.

This is a really great cabinet that will work well in any room. The DIY plans to build a Doyle cabinet are easy to follow and though the angles in the X detail may be intimidating for some, they are really easy to create! Have any questions about the Doyle Cabinet plans? Leave a comment below!




A Sideboard to Build with X Detail and Lots of Storage

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard

This sideboard, though it may look complicated, is really easy to build. The DIY plans to build a Myron Sideboard features two doors with X detail and Plexiglas (plus a shelf behind each door), and three drawers. The top is constructed of plywood with solid wood edges. this is a fabulous plan for those new to woodworking and can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Plexiglas or Acrylic for door panels
  • 3 sets of 12″ drawer slides
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 32-1/2″ – Legs
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 28-1/2″ – Side Panels
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 28-1/2″ x 54″ – Back
  • 2 – 2×2 at 54″ – Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 54″ – Bottom Shelf
  • 2 – 1×2 at 25-1/2″ – Front Dividers
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/4″ x 27″ – Divider Panels
  • 2 – 1×2 at 17″ – Drawer Dividers
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 17-3/4″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 55″ – Top Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 14-1/2″ – Top Side Trim
  • 1 – 1×2 at 58″ – Top Front Trim
  • 4 – 1×3 at 11-3/4″ – Door Frame
  • 4 – 1×3 at 25-1/4″ – Door Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 23-3/8″ – Door X Detail
  • 4 – 1×2 at 11-5/16″ – Door X Detail
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/2″ x 14-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – 1×6 at 10-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1×6 at 16″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-1/4″ x 16-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each long edge of the side panels. Secure the side panels to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Sides

Step Two

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each of the shorter edges. Secure the back panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Back

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the front legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece for the bottom shelf. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the bottom shelf to the side panels, back panel, and lower front stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the panel will be flush with the top face of the lower stretcher.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Shelf

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the front dividers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the front dividers to the front stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the divider panels and cut the notch using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown treating the pieces as a left and a right. Secure the divider panels to the back, bottom shelf, and front dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside face of the dividers panels (with the pocket holes) will be flush with the inside edges of the front dividers. This way, the pocket holes will be hidden by the drawer boxes.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Front Dividers

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Dividers 1

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Dividers 2

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Secure the shelves in each cubby as shown, securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Shelves

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in each side edge as well as one long edge of the top panel. Also drill pocket holes in one end of each shorter trim piece. Secure the side trim pieces to the sides of the top panel using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the front trim piece using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Top 1

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Top 2

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the front dividers. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Drawer FB

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Drawer Fronts

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the door frame and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the door frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the X detail. The angles can be cut by setting the miter saw to the angle degree given or by making a mark on the board at the dimension indicated and drawing a diagonal line from one corner of the board to the mark then cutting with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. One pocket hole can be drilled at each end of the pieces, as well. Dry fit the pieces first trimming the angles as necessary. Secure the pieces inside the door frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Door Frame

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Door X 1

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Door X 2

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces of Plexiglas or acrylic as shown. The material will overlap the opening of the door frame by 1/2″ on each side. Drill a hole in each corner and secure the material to the inside of the door frames using a 3/4″ screw.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Door Panel

Install the hinges on the door, then install the doors in the openings. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the doors in the openings.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Hinges & Knobs

Finish as desired.

The sideboard would be an excellent addition to any room. It would also make a fabulous media stand! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Myron Sideboard? Leave a comment below!




An Interesting Twist to a Simple Sideboard

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard

This is a very simple sideboard but what sets it apart from other “simple” sideboards are the squares on the front doors! The DIY plans to build a Cato Sideboard feature two large doors and a shelf inside. The squares overlap the space between the doors for a very cohesive look. Even though there are 120 squares to cut, the sideboard can still be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Copy

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ screws
  • 5/8″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 5-1/2″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 12″ – Base Frame
  • 2 – 2×2 at 53″ – Base Frame
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/4″ x 56″ – Bottom & Top
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/4″ x 28-1/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 28-1/4″ x 54-1/2″ – Back
  • 2 – 1×2 at 13″ – Shelf Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 54-1/2″ – Shelf Frame
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-1/2″ x 54-1/2″ – Shelf
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 27-15/16″ x 29-3/4″ – Door Base
  • 120 – 1/4″ plywood at 3-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ – Decorative Squares

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly!

Cut the pieces for the base frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Base Frame

Step Two

Cut the piece for the bottom. The longer edges of the bottom piece will overhang the base frame by 1″ on each side. Secure the bottom to the base frame using glue and 1-1/2″ countersunk screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Bottom

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each of the shorter edges. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Sides

Step Four

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the back to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Back

Step Five

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The edges of the top will be flush with the sides and the back.

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Top

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the shelf frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Position the frame inside the cabinet as shown. The back of the frame will be flush with the back of the cabinet making the frame location 1″ from the front edge of the sides. Secure the frame in place using glue and countersunk 1-1/2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Shelf Frame 1

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Shelf Frame 2

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the shelf. Position the shelf on top of the frame and secure in place with glue and countersunk 1-1/2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Shelf

Step Eight

Cut the door base pieces and the squares for the front of the doors. The squares on the left hand door will overlap the space between the doors and will rest on the right hand door. The squares on the right hand door will start 1-15/16″ away from the left hand edge – see drawings. The squares will be flush with the outer sides, top, and bottom of the doors base. The spacing between the squares is 1/4″. (Scrap pieces of the 1/4″ plywood can be used as spacers when securing the squares to the doors.) Secure the squares in place using glue and 5/8″ brad nails.

Install the hinges on the doors then install the doors on the cabinet.

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Doors 1

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Doors 2

Finish as desired.

Any type of finish would look fabulous on this sideboard – painted one color, a dark stain, the glue resist technique on a few of the squares on the doors, or even stenciling! The DIY plans to build a Cato Sideboard are suitable for beginners and if there are any questions about the plans, leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




A Large Sideboard That Is Easy to Build!

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard

Are you a sucker for large sideboards? I certainly am and this one is no exception! The DIY plans to build a Forester Sideboard feature four large drawers and two large shelves plus it is a tad on the tall side adding stately elegance to any room! Finished however you choose, this piece of furniture will certainly become a favorite and will fit into any decor!

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 4 sets of 18″ drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 12 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 9 – 1×10 at 8′
  • 4 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 3 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 49-1/4″ – Legs
  • 6 – 1×2 at 18-1/2″ – Side Framing
  • 5 – 1×2 at 60-1/4″ – Stretchers
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 21-1/2″ x 63″ – Bottom& Upper Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 20″ – Divider
  • 4 – 1×2 at 18-1/2″ – Middle Framing Sides
  • 4 – 1×2 at 29-5/8″ – Middle Framing Stretchers
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 30-3/8″ – Middle Shelves
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 23-1/2″ – Upper Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 23-1/2″ x 60″ – Upper Back
  • 2 – 1×2 at 60″ – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 11-3/8″ – Drawer Dividers
  • 3 – 1×2 at 18-1/2″ – Center Supports
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 61″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×2 at 19-1/2″ – Top Side Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 64″ – Top Front & Back Trim
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 27-1/8″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 16 – 1×10 at 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 16 – 1×10 at 28-5/8″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-1/8″ x 29-3/8″ – Drawer Fronts

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly!

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side framing. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. The top framing piece will be positioned so that the pocket holes are facing up and will be hidden by the top. The lower framing pieces will be positioned so the pocket holes face to the inside, and will be flush with the inside face of the legs. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. The upper back  stretcher will be positioned so that the pocket holes are facing up and will be hidden by the top. The lower stretchers will be positioned so the pocket holes face to the inside, and will be flush with the inside face of the legs. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the upper shelf. Cut the notches using a jigsaw. Place the bottom piece on top of the lower stretchers and secure in place with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Set the upper shelf piece off to the side.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Bottom 1

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Bottom 2

 

Step Four

Cut the piece for the divider and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Position the divider on the bottom as shown, securing the piece to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Add a few brad nails through the stretchers above into the divider.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Divider 1

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Divider 2

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the middle framing sides and middle stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces, and one end only of the stretcher pieces. Secure two of the stretcher piece on each side of the divider as shown locating the pieces 3/4″ from the front of the divider and 3/4″ from the back of the divider using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Secure the outer framing pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside faces of the outer side framing pieces will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

Position the middle stretchers as shown securing the end with the pocket holes to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The other end will be secured to the framing pieces attached to the divider using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Middle Frame Sides

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Middle Frame Stretchers

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the middle shelf and cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw. Position the shelves on the frames then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Middle Shelves 1

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Middle Shelves 2

Step Seven

Position the upper shelf on the upper stretchers and dividers securing in place with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Upper Shelf

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the upper sides and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the legs, upper shelf, and uppermost side stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside face of the sides will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Upper Sides

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the back and and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the legs, upper shelf, and upper back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside face of the back will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Back

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and the drawer dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers and one end only of the drawer dividers. Secure the stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Position the upper stretcher so that the pocket holes face up and position the lower stretcher so that the pocket holes face down.

Position the drawer dividers as shown. Install the lower divider first, using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket holes into the upper shelf. Add a few brad nails through the lower front stretcher into the lower divider. Install the upper divider using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws into the lower stretcher. Add a few brad nails through the upper stretcher into the upper divider.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Front Stretchers

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Dividers

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the center supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the drawer dividers and the back as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The lower edge of the middle support will be flush with the upper face of the lower stretcher.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Center Supports

Step Twelve

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the top as well as each end of the side trim pieces. Attach the side trim pieces to the side edges of the top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the front and back trim pieces.

The top will overhang the cabinet by ½” on all sides. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Top 1

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Top 2

Step Thirteen

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs and drawer dividers. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Drawer FB

Step Fourteen

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Drawer Fronts

Finish the sideboard as desired!

The sideboard would be a great addition to a dining room or an entryway. It would also be great as a dresser in a bedroom or as a media center for a smaller TV! Leave a comment below if there are any questions about the DIY plans to build a Forester Sideboard or I can be contacted at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




A Rustic Sideboard with a Modern Twist

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard

This sideboard is absolutely swoon-worthy! The slatted bypass doors are just awesome! The DIY plans to build a Slat-Door sideboard feature a large, roomy, continuous shelf on the inside and is the perfect piece for any entertaining needs! The sideboard is a super-easy build and can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Sliding door hardware like this
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 12 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 3×3 post at 4′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-1/2″ x 64-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-1/2″ x 26-1/4″ – Sides
  • 4 – 3×3 posts at 4″ – Feet
  • 1 – 1×3 at 64-1/2″ – Back Stretcher
  • 2 – 1×2 at 64-1/2″ – Shelf Frame
  • 3 – 1×2 at 12″ – Shelf Frame
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-3/4″ x 64-1/2″ – Shelf
  • 4 – 1×2 at 25-1/4″ – Door Frame
  • 4 – 1×2 at 29-3/8″ – Door Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 22-1/4″ – Door Frame
  • 44 – 1×2 at 13-15/16″ – Door Frame
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/4″ x 67-1/2″ – Top Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18-1/4″ – Top Side Trim
  • 1 – 1×2 at 69″ – Top Front Trim
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 26-1/4″ x 65-1/4″ – Back

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the piece for the bottom panel. Use a router and a 1/8″ straight bit to cut two dadoes along one long edge of one face of the panel. The first dado will be located 1-1/2″ back from the edge and the second dado will be located 1″ back from the first dado. With a pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes along the back side edges of the bottom.

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Bottom

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the sides. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The pocket holes in the bottom will face down.

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Sides

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the feet. Position the feet as shown in the drawing and secure in place using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws. For best results, use four screws per foot, if possible!

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Feet

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the shelf frame and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Position the frame in the cabinet as shown – the back of the frame will be flush with the back edge of the sides, securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ countersunk screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Shelf Frame 1 DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Shelf Frame 2

Step Five

Cut the piece for the shelf. The front edge of the shelf will extend past the frame by 1/4″ while the back edge is flush with the frame. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Shelf

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in the pieces indicated in the drawing. Assemble the doors as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Install the sliding door hardware according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Doors

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the top panel and the top trim. Use a router and a 1/8″ straight bit to cut two dadoes along one long edge of one face of the top panel. The first dado will be located 1-1/2″ back from the edge and the second dado will be located 1″ back from the first dado. Drill pocket holes as shown to attach the trim.

Attach the side trim using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then install the front trim piece. Add a few brad nails through the front trim piece into the ends of the side pieces.

The top will extend past the sides and front by 1-1/2″ including the trim. Insert the doors into the channels on the bottom, then insert the hardware into the channels at the underside of the top. Once the top is correctly positioned and any necessary adjustments have been made to the doors, secure the top to the sides and stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Top 1 DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Top 2 DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Top 3

Finish as desired.

When constructing the sideboard, it may be easier to sand each piece before assembly. It will also be easier to finish the doors, top, and cabinet separately, then install the doors and the top.

The sideboard would also make a great media stand! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Slat-Door Sideboard? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!