A Large Sideboard That Is Easy to Build!

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard

Are you a sucker for large sideboards? I certainly am and this one is no exception! The DIY plans to build a Forester Sideboard feature four large drawers and two large shelves plus it is a tad on the tall side adding stately elegance to any room! Finished however you choose, this piece of furniture will certainly become a favorite and will fit into any decor!

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 4 sets of 18″ drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 12 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 9 – 1×10 at 8′
  • 4 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 3 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 49-1/4″ – Legs
  • 6 – 1×2 at 18-1/2″ – Side Framing
  • 5 – 1×2 at 60-1/4″ – Stretchers
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 21-1/2″ x 63″ – Bottom& Upper Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 20″ – Divider
  • 4 – 1×2 at 18-1/2″ – Middle Framing Sides
  • 4 – 1×2 at 29-5/8″ – Middle Framing Stretchers
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 30-3/8″ – Middle Shelves
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 23-1/2″ – Upper Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 23-1/2″ x 60″ – Upper Back
  • 2 – 1×2 at 60″ – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 11-3/8″ – Drawer Dividers
  • 3 – 1×2 at 18-1/2″ – Center Supports
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 61″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×2 at 19-1/2″ – Top Side Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 64″ – Top Front & Back Trim
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 27-1/8″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 16 – 1×10 at 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 16 – 1×10 at 28-5/8″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-1/8″ x 29-3/8″ – Drawer Fronts

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly!

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side framing. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. The top framing piece will be positioned so that the pocket holes are facing up and will be hidden by the top. The lower framing pieces will be positioned so the pocket holes face to the inside, and will be flush with the inside face of the legs. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. The upper back  stretcher will be positioned so that the pocket holes are facing up and will be hidden by the top. The lower stretchers will be positioned so the pocket holes face to the inside, and will be flush with the inside face of the legs. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the upper shelf. Cut the notches using a jigsaw. Place the bottom piece on top of the lower stretchers and secure in place with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Set the upper shelf piece off to the side.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Bottom 1

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Bottom 2

 

Step Four

Cut the piece for the divider and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Position the divider on the bottom as shown, securing the piece to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Add a few brad nails through the stretchers above into the divider.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Divider 1

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Divider 2

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the middle framing sides and middle stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces, and one end only of the stretcher pieces. Secure two of the stretcher piece on each side of the divider as shown locating the pieces 3/4″ from the front of the divider and 3/4″ from the back of the divider using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Secure the outer framing pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside faces of the outer side framing pieces will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

Position the middle stretchers as shown securing the end with the pocket holes to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The other end will be secured to the framing pieces attached to the divider using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Middle Frame Sides

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Middle Frame Stretchers

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the middle shelf and cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw. Position the shelves on the frames then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Middle Shelves 1

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Middle Shelves 2

Step Seven

Position the upper shelf on the upper stretchers and dividers securing in place with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Upper Shelf

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the upper sides and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the legs, upper shelf, and uppermost side stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside face of the sides will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Upper Sides

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the back and and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the legs, upper shelf, and upper back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside face of the back will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Back

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and the drawer dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers and one end only of the drawer dividers. Secure the stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Position the upper stretcher so that the pocket holes face up and position the lower stretcher so that the pocket holes face down.

Position the drawer dividers as shown. Install the lower divider first, using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket holes into the upper shelf. Add a few brad nails through the lower front stretcher into the lower divider. Install the upper divider using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws into the lower stretcher. Add a few brad nails through the upper stretcher into the upper divider.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Front Stretchers

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Dividers

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the center supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the drawer dividers and the back as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The lower edge of the middle support will be flush with the upper face of the lower stretcher.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Center Supports

Step Twelve

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the top as well as each end of the side trim pieces. Attach the side trim pieces to the side edges of the top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the front and back trim pieces.

The top will overhang the cabinet by ½” on all sides. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Top 1

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Top 2

Step Thirteen

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs and drawer dividers. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Drawer FB

Step Fourteen

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Forester Sideboard_Drawer Fronts

Finish the sideboard as desired!

The sideboard would be a great addition to a dining room or an entryway. It would also be great as a dresser in a bedroom or as a media center for a smaller TV! Leave a comment below if there are any questions about the DIY plans to build a Forester Sideboard or I can be contacted at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




A Rustic Sideboard with a Modern Twist

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard

This sideboard is absolutely swoon-worthy! The slatted bypass doors are just awesome! The DIY plans to build a Slat-Door sideboard feature a large, roomy, continuous shelf on the inside and is the perfect piece for any entertaining needs! The sideboard is a super-easy build and can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Sliding door hardware like this
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 12 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 3×3 post at 4′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-1/2″ x 64-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-1/2″ x 26-1/4″ – Sides
  • 4 – 3×3 posts at 4″ – Feet
  • 1 – 1×3 at 64-1/2″ – Back Stretcher
  • 2 – 1×2 at 64-1/2″ – Shelf Frame
  • 3 – 1×2 at 12″ – Shelf Frame
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-3/4″ x 64-1/2″ – Shelf
  • 4 – 1×2 at 25-1/4″ – Door Frame
  • 4 – 1×2 at 29-3/8″ – Door Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 22-1/4″ – Door Frame
  • 44 – 1×2 at 13-15/16″ – Door Frame
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/4″ x 67-1/2″ – Top Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18-1/4″ – Top Side Trim
  • 1 – 1×2 at 69″ – Top Front Trim
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 26-1/4″ x 65-1/4″ – Back

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the piece for the bottom panel. Use a router and a 1/8″ straight bit to cut two dadoes along one long edge of one face of the panel. The first dado will be located 1-1/2″ back from the edge and the second dado will be located 1″ back from the first dado. With a pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes along the back side edges of the bottom.

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Bottom

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the sides. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The pocket holes in the bottom will face down.

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Sides

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the feet. Position the feet as shown in the drawing and secure in place using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws. For best results, use four screws per foot, if possible!

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Feet

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the shelf frame and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Position the frame in the cabinet as shown – the back of the frame will be flush with the back edge of the sides, securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ countersunk screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Shelf Frame 1 DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Shelf Frame 2

Step Five

Cut the piece for the shelf. The front edge of the shelf will extend past the frame by 1/4″ while the back edge is flush with the frame. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Shelf

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in the pieces indicated in the drawing. Assemble the doors as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Install the sliding door hardware according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Doors

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the top panel and the top trim. Use a router and a 1/8″ straight bit to cut two dadoes along one long edge of one face of the top panel. The first dado will be located 1-1/2″ back from the edge and the second dado will be located 1″ back from the first dado. Drill pocket holes as shown to attach the trim.

Attach the side trim using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then install the front trim piece. Add a few brad nails through the front trim piece into the ends of the side pieces.

The top will extend past the sides and front by 1-1/2″ including the trim. Insert the doors into the channels on the bottom, then insert the hardware into the channels at the underside of the top. Once the top is correctly positioned and any necessary adjustments have been made to the doors, secure the top to the sides and stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Top 1 DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Top 2 DIY Plans to Build a Slat-Door Sideboard_Top 3

Finish as desired.

When constructing the sideboard, it may be easier to sand each piece before assembly. It will also be easier to finish the doors, top, and cabinet separately, then install the doors and the top.

The sideboard would also make a great media stand! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Slat-Door Sideboard? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build the Crates for the San Marcos Sideboard

Plans to Build the Crates for the Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard

As promised, here are the plans for the crates to match the Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard.  The plans to build the crates for the Napa Style inspired San Marcos sideboard do not have to specifically be used for this table but can serve other organizing needs!

Plans to Build the Crates for the Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard_Copy

Plans to Build the Crates for the Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard-group

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 14-1×3 at 8′ (for six crates)
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Cut List:

  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 18-1/2″ – Crate Bottoms
  • 24 – 1×2 at 9-1/4″ – Posts
  • 36 – 1×3 at 18″ – Side Slats
  • 36 – 1×3 at 18-1/2″ – Side Slats

 

Plans to Build the Crates for the Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the bottoms and the posts. Attach the posts to the bottoms as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws through the bottom into the ends of the posts.

Plans to Build the Crates for the Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard_Posts & Bottom

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the slats. Attach the longer slats first using glue and 1-1/4″ screws, then attach the shorter slats in the same manner.

Plans to Build the Crates for the Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard_Slats 1Plans to Build the Crates for the Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard_Slats 2

Finish as desired! If desired, handles can be added to the sides, as well as teflon feet to the bottom.

The crates can also serve many other uses – they can be stacked in a mudroom to corral shoes or pet supplies, used for craft storage, or even as a place to store books! Have any questions about the plans to build the crates for the Napa Style inspired San Marcos sideboard? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Plans to Build a Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard

Plans to Build a Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard

If you are one of those lucky people who has an abundance of pallets, not only am I jealous, but this is the project for you! Of course, pallet wood doesn’t have to be used with the sieboard… Regular lumber with a little distressing will do the trick, also! Plus, the finished table doesn’t have to be used as a sideboard… It can be a craft table or even a work bench, which is how I’m going to use it. I drew the plans to build a Napa Style inspired San Marcos sideboard using plywood for the shelves and top for a more economical option. If a planked look is desired, the plans have also been drawn to accommodate 1×3 planks for the shelves and top. I’ve also included two methods of assembly – one option is using a pocket hole jig and pocket hole screws, and the other option is using countersunk screws.

Plans to Build a Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard_Copy

Materials:

  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws  and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws or
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 5 – 2×4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2×2 at 4′
  • 6 – 1×4 at 8’
  • 4 – 1×2 at 8’
  • 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood

Cut List:

  • 8 – 2×4 at 31-1/4” – Legs
  • 12 – 2×4 at 17-1/2” – Leg Stretchers
  • 12 – 1×2 at 18-1/2” – Leg Connectors
  • 24 – 2×2 at 1-1/2” – Leg Connector Supports (for countersunk screw method only)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 69-1/2” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 69-1/2” – Top
  • 4 – 1×2 at 20-1/2” – Side Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 24” – Angled Side Trim
  • 4 – 1×4 at 11-3/8” – Middle Aprons
  • 4 – 1×4 at 20-1/2” – Side Aprons
  • 6 – 1×4 at 71” – Long Aprons

Plans to Build a Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side stretchers.

If using the pocket hole method, drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

If using the countersunk screw method, draw lines on the outside of the legs for placement of the screws. Drill countersunk holes, then attach the side stretchers using glue and 2-1/2″ screws.

Plans to Build a Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard_Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the connectors.

If using the pocket hole method, drill pocket holes in each end of the connectors. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

If using the countersunk screw method, blocks will have to be cut and screws to the legs 3/4″ below the dimension for the connectors. Attach the blocks to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ screws. Attach the connectors to the blocks using glue and 1-1/4″ screws.

Plans to Build a Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard_Connectors

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the shelves.

If using the pocket hole method, drill pocket holes in each long edge of the shelves. Attach to the connectors as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Also secure the shelves to the 2×4 supports using countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

If using the countersunk screw method, attach the shelves to the 2×4 supports using countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

Plans to Build a Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard_Shelves

Step Four

Cut the piece for the top.

For either method, secure the top using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws through the top into the 2×4 supports as well as the top of the legs.

Plans to Build a Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard_Top

The remaining pieces will be attached using countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the side trim pieces. Attach to the sides as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws into the legs. Cut the pieces for the angled trim. Cut the angle as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4″ countersunk screws into the legs and middle 2×4 leg stretchers.

Plans to Build a Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard_Side Trim

Plans to Build a Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard_Mid Trim 1

Plans to Build a Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard_Mid Trim 2Step Six

Cut the pieces for the middle aprons. Cut the angle as shown, then attach to the sides as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws into the legs.

Plans to Build a Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard_Mid Apron 1Plans to Build a Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard_Mid Apron 2

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the side aprons. Attach as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws into the leg stretchers.

Plans to Build a Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard_Side Aprons

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the long stretchers. Attach as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws into the leg connectors.

Plans to Build a Napa Style Inspired San Marcos Sideboard_Long Aprons

Fill the holes and finish as desired.

The sideboard isn’t just for the dining room or entryway… The sideboard can be used as a craft table or a work table! Plans for the matching crates are here! Have any questions about the plans to build a Napa Style inspired San Marcos sideboard? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Crofton Sideboard Server

Build a Fabulous Piece for Entertaining with the Crofton Sideboard Server Plans!

This is another one of those pieces that I envision in a weathered finish… The Crofton Sideboard Server Plans are a very easy build featuring a slatted lower shelf and a cubby with sliding doors. It is the perfect piece to be used as a bar or to store linens!

Crofton Sideboard Server Plans-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 2 sets of sliding door hardware (like these)
  • 2 – Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 4 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 3 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 3 – 2×4 at 8′
  • Half sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 1 sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 39-1/4″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×4 (ripped to 3″ wide) at 15″ – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2×4 (ripped to 2-3/4″ wide) at 15″ – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2×2 at 15″ – Side Frames
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 15-3/8″ – Side Panels
  • 2 – 2×4 (ripped to 3″ wide) at 53″ – Front & Back Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×4 (ripped to 2-3/4″ wide) at 53″ – Front & Back Middle Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×2 at 53″ – Front & Back Lower Stretcher
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-3/8″ x 53″ – Back Panel
  • 15 – 1×3 at 15″ – Shelf Slats
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 53″ – Shelf
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 15-1/8″ x 28″ – Doors
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18″ – Lower Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 57-1/2″ – Lower Trim
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 56″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×3 at 18″ – Top Trim
  • 2 – 1×3 at 57-1/2″ – Top Trim

Crofton Sideboard Server Plans

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure the pieces to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material, and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the legs and side frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panels will be flush with the outside face of the frame pieces.

Crofton Sideboard Server Plans-Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the back frame and panel. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure the pieces to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material, and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure to the legs and side frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panel will be flush with the outside face of the frame pieces.

Crofton Sideboard Server Plans-Back

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the lower front stretcher. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 piece. Secure the 2×2 piece to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the slats. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the lower stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Crofton Sideboard Server Plans-Lower Front Stretcher

Crofton Sideboard Server Plans-SlatsStep Four

Cut the pieces for the middle and upper front stretchers. To cut the tracks for the sliding door hardware, set the depth of the table saw blade according to the depth indicated for the hardware in the instructions. Cut kerfs in each board as indicated in the drawings using the table saw. Note that there will be a top (the 3″ piece) and a bottom (2-3/4″ piece). Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the middle stretcher (the 2-3/4″ board) using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Set the other board aside.

Cut the piece for the shelf. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material, and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the shelf. Secure the shelf to the middle stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Crofton Sideboard Server Plans-Channel Detail

Crofton Sideboard Server Plans-Middle Front StretcherCrofton Sideboard Server Plans-ShelfStep Five

Cut the pieces for the doors. To help the doors slide smoothly, apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom edge of the doors. Install the sliding door hardware to the back of the door according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Insert the doors with the hardware seated in each track.

Position the upper stretcher as shown, with the hardware in the track. Secure the upper stretcher in place using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Crofton Sideboard Server Plans-Doors

Crofton Sideboard Server Plans-Upper StretcherStep Six

Cut the pieces for the lower trim. Install the side pieces first using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails, positioning the pieces so that the bottom is flush with the bottom of the middle stretchers, then install the front and back.

Crofton Sideboard Server Plans-Lower Trim

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the top. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the top trim. Install the side pieces first using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails, positioning the pieces so that the bottom is flush with the bottom of the middle stretchers, then install the front and back.

Crofton Sideboard Server Plans-Top

Crofton Sideboard Server Plans-Top TrimFinish as desired!

This cabinet would also be great in a bath area to store towels! Have any questions about the Crofton sideboard server plans? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

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Build an Esmerelda Buffet

Plans to Build an Esmerelda Buffet – a fabulous addition to any decor!

Who doesn’t love a good buffet? I do especially those of the Chinese variety – haha! In terms of furniture, this buffet takes the cake… With a floating top, the cabinet itself floats on the base and boasts tons of storage with the plethora of storage! Six drawers and two shelved cabinets, to be exact! The plans to build an Esmerelda Buffet only look complicated but is really easy!

plans build esmerelda buffet-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 6 sets of 16″ Drawer slides
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 8 – Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 6 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 4 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 5 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 3 sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 10″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 66-1/2″ – Base Frame
  • 7 – 2×2 at 16-1/2″ – Base Frame
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 28-1/2″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 28-1/2″ x 68″ – Back
  • 2 – 1×2 at 15″ – Bottom Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 68″ – Bottom Frame
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-3/4″ x 68″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 1×2 at 68″ – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 6″ – Dividers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 19-1/2″ – Dividers
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-1/4″ x 27″ – Cabinet Dividers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 26-1/2″ – Center Stretchers
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-3/4″ x 20″ – Shelves
  • 2 – 1×2 at 68″ – Top Frame
  • 4 – 1×2 at 15″ – Top Frame
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 69-1/2″ – Top
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 17-1/2″ – Outer Drawer Bottoms
  • 12 – 1×6 at 14-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1×6 at 19″ – Outer Drawer Front & Back
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 24″ – Center Drawer Box Bottom
  • 8 – 1×6 at 25-1/2″ – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-3/4″ x 19-3/4″ – Outer Drawer Fronts
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-3/4″ x 26-1/4″ – Center Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/4″ x 19-3/4″ – Doors

plans build esmerelda buffet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frame and legs. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

plans build esmerelda buffet-Base

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in the lower edge. Secure to the base frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

plans build esmerelda buffet-Sides

Step Three

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the side and lower edges. Secure to the sides and base frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

plans build esmerelda buffet-Back

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the bottom frame and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure to the base frame (inside the sides and back) using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The front edge of the frame will be located 3/4″ back from the front edge of the frame.

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position on the bottom frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The front edge of the bottom will be flush with the sides of the cabinet.

 plans build esmerelda buffet-Bottom Frame

plans build esmerelda buffet-BottomStep Five

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer dividers. Secure the shorter dividers to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the stretchers. Secure the longer dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 plans build esmerelda buffet-Front Stretchers

plans build esmerelda buffet-DividersStep Six

Cut the pieces for the cabinet dividers. Drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the divider, bottom, and back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face toward the center and will be concealed by the center drawers.

 plans build esmerelda buffet-Cabinet Dividers

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the center stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 plans build esmerelda buffet-Center Stretchers

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the shelves, and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Secure to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The shelves are located 1″ back from the front edge of the sides.

 plans build esmerelda buffet-Shelves

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the top frame. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The frame will be “shorter” than the cabinet by 3/4″ on all sides. This is what makes the top “float”. Secure the frame to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Cut the piece for the top. Position the top so that it is flush with the outside of the cabinet on all sides. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

 plans build esmerelda buffet-Top Frame

plans build esmerelda buffet-TopStep Ten

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides and dividers. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

 plans build esmerelda buffet-Outer Drawers BS

plans build esmerelda buffet-Outer Drawers FBplans build esmerelda buffet-Center Drawer BSplans build esmerelda buffet-Center Drawer FBStep Eleven

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

 plans build esmerelda buffet-Drawers

Step Twelve

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

 plans build esmerelda buffet-Doors

Finish as desired.

This buffet would also double as a great dresser or media stand! Any questions about the plans to build an Esmerelda buffet? Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Ronen Hutch

Plans to Build a Ronen Hutch to Match the Sideboard

Previously, I posted plans to build the Ronen Sideboard – an easy to build piece with lots of style. Now, I’ve created plans to build the Ronen Hutch which sits atop the sideboard and takes style to the next level! With lots of storage and open shelving, the hutch is an equally easy build!

plans build ronen hutch-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Glass for the doors – 2 at 10-7/8″ x 19-1/4″
  • Mirror clips to hold the glass in place
  • 2 – Angle brackets or mending plates
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 2 – Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 4′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 full sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 39-1/4″ – Side Frames
  • 4 – 2×2 at 9″ – Side Frames
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 9″ x 36-1/4″ – Side Panels
  • 4 – 2×2 at 40″ – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 36-1/4″ x 40″ – Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 9-3/4″ x 40″ – Shelf
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/2″ x 23-1/2″ – Dividers
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/2″ x 13″ – Center Shelves
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/2″ x 12-3/4″ – Side Shelves
  • 2 – 1×2 at 11-1/2″ – Top Trim Side
  • 1 – 1×2 at 45″ – Top Trim Front
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-1/2″ x 42″ – Top Panel
  • 6 – 1×2 at 10-3/8″ – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1×2 at 21-3/4″ – Door Stiles
  • 4 – 1×2 at 8-5/8″ – Shorter Door Stiles

plans build ronen hutch

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the side frames and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Secure to the longer frame pieces using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the back face of the frames.

plans build ronen hutch-Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the back frame and panel. Set the  pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the side frame pieces using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame.

plans build ronen hutch-Back

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the  pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the side frame pieces using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

plans build ronen hutch-Front Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece for the shelf. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the shelf. Secure to the lower front stretcher, sides, and back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the panel will be flush with the top face of the lower stretcher.

plans build ronen hutch-Shelf

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the dividers and cut the notches as shown using a jigsaw. Drill the pocket holes in the back and bottom edges treating the pieces as left and right. This way, the pocket holes will be hidden inside the compartments with the doors and won’t have to be filled. Secure to the back and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

plans build ronen hutch-Dividers 1

plans build ronen hutch-Dividers 2

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the center shelves. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the back and dividers into the shelves.

plans build ronen hutch-Center Shelves

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the side shelves. Position as shown, locating them 3/4″ back from the front, then secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the sides, back, and dividers into the shelves.

plans build ronen hutch-Side Shelves

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in one end only of each of the side trim pieces as well as the sides and front of the top. Secure the side trim pieces first using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then secure the front trim in the same manner.

The front and sides of the top will overhang by 1″ and the back will be flush. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

plans build ronen hutch-Top 1

plans build ronen hutch-Top 2

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the doors and drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Position the glass over the opening and secure in place using mirror clips. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

Secure the hutch to the sideboard using angle brackets on the inside of the sides or mending plates on the back.

plans build ronen hutch-Doors 1

plans build ronen hutch-Doors 2

plans build ronen hutch-Doors 3

Finish as desired!

The hutch would be fabulous with punched aluminum or mirrors in the door frames in place of the glass! If there are any questions about the plans to build the Ronen Hutch, let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Roxbury Sideboard

Build a Gorgeous Piece of Furniture with the Roxbury Sideboard Plans

Here is another piece of furniture that will be so easy construct… The cabinet features a shelf inside and plain door panels which can be customized however you choose – stenciled, fabric, or maybe replace the 1/2″ plywood with decorative punched aluminum! Whatever your choice, the Roxbury Sideboard Plans are easy to follow and very inexpensive to build!

roxbury sideboard plans_Copy

Materials:

  • 1″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 3/4″ square dowels at 3′ (or 3/4″ strips ripped off of 1x material)
  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 6′ (It may be more economical to rip 2x4s in half)
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 1 – sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 5 – 2×2 at 31-1/2″ – Legs
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11″ x 27-1/2″ – Side Panels
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 27-1/2″ x 45″ – Back
  • 4 – 2×2 at 21-3/4″ – Front Stretchers
  • 6 – 3/4″ dowels at 11″ – Shelf Supports
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11″ x 45″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 45″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×2 at 12-1/2″ – Top Side
  • 1 – 1×2 at 48″ – Top Front
  • 4 – 1×2 at 18-1/2″ – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1×2 at 24-1/4″ – Door Stiles
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 21-1/4″ – Door Panels

 roxbury sideboard plans

Notes:

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes along the long edges of each panel. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the legs. Set the remaining leg off to the side.

 roxbury sideboard plans_Side

Step Two

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes along the side edges (the 27-1/2″ edges). Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

 roxbury sideboard plans_Back

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers tot he remaining leg as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Secure the leg and stretcher assembly to the cabinet as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

 roxbury sideboard plans_Front Leg & Stretchers 1

roxbury sideboard plans_Front Leg & Stretchers 2

Step Four

Cut the dowel pieces for the shelf supports. The side supports will be secured to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Install the lower supports first, flush with the bottom of the side panels. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill one pocket hole in each end of the center supports. Secure the lower center support to the center leg (centered) and the back using glue and and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Secure the lower shelf to the lower supports using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the lower stretchers.

Install the remaining supports in the same manner as the lower supports, then install the shelf.

 roxbury sideboard plans_Shelf Supports1

roxbury sideboard plans_Shelf Supports2

roxbury sideboard plans_Shelf Supports3

roxbury sideboard plans_Shelf Supports4

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the top. Drill pocket holes in the sides and front edge, as well as on end of each top side piece. Secure the top side pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the front piece using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the top to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

 roxbury sideboard plans_Top1

roxbury sideboard plans_Top2

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rails. Set the pocket hole jig for 1/2″ material and drill pocket hole in all four edges. Assemble the doors as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the rails into the stiles, and 1″ pocket holes through the panels into the door frames.

Install the hinges on the doors according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

 roxbury sideboard plans_Doors1

roxbury sideboard plans_Doors2

Finish as desired.

 

I think I might add the Roxbury Sideboard plans to my to build list… I love being able to customize the doors! This piece would be fabulous for outdoor entertaining if finished for outdoor use with casters on the legs for portability! Any questions? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Fabulous Sideboard

Free Furniture Plans to Build the Sundown Retreat Sideboard

Need more storage? Try the free furniture plans to build the Sundown Retreat Sideboard – a fantastic piece of furniture featuring six drawers and a roomy shelf. This is the perfect piece for additional storage plus it will look fabulous with any decor!

free furniture plans build sundown retreat sideboard_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 6 sets of 16″ drawer slides
  • 6 cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 3 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 10 – 2×2 at 8′ (or 5 – 2×4 cut in half)
  • 2 – sheets of 3/4″ plywood
  • 2 pieces of decorative trim, 3/4″ wide

Cut List:

  • 8 – 2×2 at 41-1/4″ – Legs
  • 10 – 2×2 at 16-1/2″ – Side Frames & Slide Supports
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 18-3/8″ – Side Panels
  • 12 – 2×2 at 20″ – Stretchers
  • 6 – 2×2 at 20-3/4″ – Stretchers
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-3/8″ x 20″ – Back Panels
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-3/8″ x 20-3/4″ – Center Back Panel
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 63-3/4″ – Bottom & Shelf
  • 6 – 1×2 at 20″ – Front Stretchers
  • 3 – 1×2 at 20-3/4″ – Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/2″ x 68-3/4″ – Top
  • Trim cut to fit under top
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 17-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 18-1/4″ – Center Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 12 – 1×6 at 14-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 8 – 1×6 at 19″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4  1×6 at 19-3/4″ – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-15/16″ x 19-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-15/16″ x 20-1/2″ – Center Drawer Fronts

 free furniture plans build sundown retreat sideboard

Notes:

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Reset the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each panel. Secure the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the frame pieces. Attach the side assembly to the legs using glue and pocket hole screws – 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the panels into the legs and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws through the frame pieces.

free furniture plans build sundown retreat sideboard_Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and the remaining legs. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Assemble the sideboard frame as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

 free furniture plans build sundown retreat sideboard_Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the back panel. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Insert the panels into the back frames and secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of each panel will be flush with the back face of the legs and stretchers.

free furniture plans build sundown retreat sideboard_Back

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the bottom and shelf, then drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the cabinet frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the bottom and shelf will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.

free furniture plans build sundown retreat sideboard_Bottom & Shelf

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the 1×2 front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

free furniture plans build sundown retreat sideboard_Front Stretchers

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide spacers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the middle legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws locating the bottom edge of the spacers flush with the top edge of the 1×2 stretchers.

free furniture plans build sundown retreat sideboard_Drawer Spacers

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the top. Spread glue along the top of the stretchers, legs, and sides then position the top so that the front and sides overhang by 1″. Secure in place using 1-1/4″ brad nails.

free furniture plans build sundown retreat sideboard_Top

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the trim. No measurement has been given because the lengths will depend on the type of trim chosen. Install the side pieces first, then install the front. Secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

free furniture plans build sundown retreat sideboard_Trim

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

free furniture plans build sundown retreat sideboard_Outer Drawers BS

free furniture plans build sundown retreat sideboard_Outer Drawers FB

 

free furniture plans build sundown retreat sideboard_Center Drawer BS

 

free furniture plans build sundown retreat sideboard_Center Drawer FB

 

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. There will be a 1/8” gap at the sides of the fronts with 1/2″ between them. Drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box to temporarily hold the drawer front in place. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

free furniture plans build sundown retreat sideboard_Drawer Fronts

Finish as desired! What do you think of these free plans to build the Sunrise Retreat Sideboard? Will you build it? If so, share it with me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Genevieve Buffet

Show Off Your DIY Skills Using These Vintage Buffet Plans

This is the perfect piece for all of your entertaining needs! Use these vintage buffet plans to create a beautiful piece of furniture in a style that will last for years to come! Featuring three drawers and a beautiful backsplash, your guests will be amazed at your fabulous DIY skills!

vintage buffet plans_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 3 sets of 20″ drawer slides
  • 3 cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 5 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 3 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 half sheet (4′ x 4′) sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 6 – 2×2 at 31-1/4″ – Legs
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-3/4″ x 69″ – Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-3/4″ x 19″ – Sides
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-3/4″ x 21-1/2″ – Center Supports
  • 2 – 1×3 at 19″ – Side Drawer Spacers
  • 2 – 1×3 at 21-1/4″ – Center Drawer Spacers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 21-1/2″ – Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 1×2 at 23″ – Center Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 24″ x 73″ – Top
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 19″ – Side Drawer Bottoms
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 20-1/2″ – Center Drawer Bottom
  • 6 – 1×3 at 18-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1×3 at 20-1/2″ – Side Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – 1×3 at 22″ – Center Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-5/8″ x 21-1/4″ – Side Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-5/8″ x 22-3/4″ – Center Drawer Front
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 73″ – Backsplash

vintage buffet plans

Notes:

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper using a jigsaw, bandsaw or tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the piece for the back. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill holes in each end of the back piece. Secure tot he legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The tapers on the legs will face each other, and the outside face of the back will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

 vintage buffet plans_Legs

vintage buffet plans_Back

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back legs, as well as another set of legs that were previously cut, using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The tapers on the legs will face each other, and the outside face of the sides will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

 vintage buffet plans_Sides

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the center supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back as shown, as well as another set of legs that were previously cut,  using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The tapers for the front legs will face to the back. The supports will be flush with the outer face of the legs.

 vintage buffet plans_Center Legs

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers. Secure to the sides and the center supports using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

 vintage buffet plans_Spacers

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs and spacers as shown, locating each piece 3/4″ back from the front face of the legs, using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 vintage buffet plans_Front Stretchers

Step Six

Cut the piece for the top. Position the top so that the sides and front overhang the legs by 1/2″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

 vintage buffet plans_Top 1

vintage buffet plans_Top 2

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

 vintage buffet plans_Side Drawer BS

vintage buffet plans_Side Drawer FB

 

vintage buffet plans_Center Drawer BS

 

vintage buffet plans_Center Drawer FB

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

 vintage buffet plans_Drawer Fronts

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the backsplash. There are no dimensions shown for the curve or the cutout, the only dimensions shown are for the overall size – the curve and cutout will be cut at your discretion. Be creative!

 vintage buffet plans_Backsplash

Finish as desired!

A mirror or photograph in the backsplash of these vintage buffet plans would look beautiful, as well as regular scrapbooking paper or tile! Have an idea for plans? Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!