Build the Homestyle Sideboard

The Homestyle Sideboard Plans – a Gorgeous Piece with Plenty of Storage

This piece is really cool and it doesn’t require the building of drawers! The Homestyle sideboard plans are super easy even with the “fancy” curved stretchers! Regular off-the-shelf baskets from your favorite store can be used and I also included plans for a couple of crates, as well.

Homestyle sideboard plans-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 1 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×4 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 2 sheets of 3/4″ plywood

For the crates:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 1 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 3 – 1×3 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 40-1/4″ – Legs
  • 2 – 1×4 at 16″ – Side Frames
  • 2 – 1×6 at 16″ – Side Frames
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 16″ – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1×4 at 65″ – Back Frame & Front Stretcher
  • 2 – 1×6 at 65″ – Back Frame & Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 65″ – Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 65″ – Shelf
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 16-3/4″ – Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 67″ – Top Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18-1/2″ – Top Side Trim
  • 1 – 1×2 at 70″ – Top Front Trim

For the crates:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 17-1/2″ – Small Crate Bottoms
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 8″ x 14-1/2″ – Small Crate Sides
  • 8 – 1×3 at 19″ – Small Crate Front & Back
  • 4 – 1×2 at 19″ – Small Crate Front & Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 21″ – Large Crate Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 8″ x 14-1/2″ – Large Crate Sides
  • 4 – 1×3 at 22-1/2″ – Large Crate Front & Back
  • 2 – 1×2 at 22-1/2″ – Large Crate Front & Back

Homestyle sideboard plans

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Maintaining the overall dimensions of the 1×6 pieces (5-1/2″ x 16″) draw a fancy curve in the lower edge of each board, then cut out with a jigsaw or bandsaw. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Secure the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Position the panel assembly so that the inside face is flush with the inside face of the legs.

Homestyle sideboard plans-Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the back frame, the front stretchers, and the back panel. Maintaining the overall dimensions of the 1×6 pieces (5-1/2″ x 16″) draw a fancy curve in the lower edge of each board, then cut out with a jigsaw or bandsaw. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Secure the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Position the panel assembly so that the inside face is flush with the inside face of the legs.

Secure the front stretchers to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside face of the stretchers will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Homestyle sideboard plans-Back

Homestyle sideboard plans-Front StretchersStep Three

Cut the pieces for the shelf and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the shelf to the 1×6 stretcher and frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top edge of the stretcher.

Homestyle sideboard plans-Shelf

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the dividers and cut the notches with a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes as shown treating each piece as a left and a right so that the pocket holes on the dividers face each other when installed. Secure the dividers to the front stretcher, back, and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Homestyle sideboard plans-Dividers 1

Homestyle sideboard plans-Dividers 2Step Five

Cut the pieces for the top panel and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel and one end only of each side trim piece. Secure the side trim pieces first using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then secure the front trim piece in the same manner.

The front and sides of the top will overhang by 1″. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the top into the sides, back, dividers, and front stretcher.

Homestyle sideboard plans-Top 1

Homestyle sideboard plans-Top 2To build the crates:

Cut the pieces for the bottom, sides, front and back. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Secure the front and back pieces to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Secure the bottom slat piece first, making it flush with the bottom of the crate, then secure the top slat piece. The 1×2 slat piece will be spaced in the center.

A coat of paste wax can be applied to the bottom of each crate so that they slide easily in the openings. Nail-on teflon furniture feet can also be used.

Homestyle sideboard plans-SmCrateBS

Homestyle sideboard plans-SmCrateFBHomestyle sideboard plans-LgCrateBSHomestyle sideboard plans-LgCrateFBFinish as desired.

 

This sideboard would be a great addition in an entryway to corral smaller items such as folding umbrellas, gloves, keys, etc. It would also be great in a dining room to store linens! Have any questions about the Homestyle sideboard plans? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build an Eclectic Wood Sideboard

An Awesome Piece of Storage – DIY Plans to Build an Eclectic Wood Sideboard

Here is another storage piece that is on the rustic and plain side, and is fabulous with any finish! The DIY plans to build an Eclectic Wood Sideboard feature a large top, two doors, and two shelves. The sideboard would be fabulous with a chippy painted finish, a weathered stain finish, or stenciled with paint or the glue-resist technique! This is a super-easy build and can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build an Eclectic Wood Sideboard_Copy

Materials:

  • 1″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 2″ screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 2 cabinet pulls or cupboard latches
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 4 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×3 at 4′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 36-1/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 49-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 2×3 at 15″ – Feet
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 35-1/2″ x 49-1/2″ – Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/4″ x 49-1/2″ – Shelves
  • 2 – 1×3 at 36-1/4″ – Front Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1×3 at 29-1/4″ – Front Frame Center
  • 2 – 1×4 at 46″ – Front Frame Top & Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-3/4″ x 53″ – Top
  • 2 – trim for sides cut to fit
  • 1 – trim for front cut to fit
  • 4 – 1×3 at 16-1/2″ – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1×3 at 29″ – Door Stiles
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 24″ – Door Panels

DIY Plans to Build an Eclectic Wood Sideboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Eclectic Wood Sideboard_Sides & Bottom

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the feet. Position the feet on the bottom as shown securing in place using glue and 2″ screws through the bottom into the feet.

DIY Plans to Build an Eclectic Wood Sideboard_Feet

Step Three

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Eclectic Wood Sideboard_Back

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as along the back edge. Secure to the sides and back of the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Eclectic Wood Sideboard_Shelves

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the front frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the center frame pieces, as well as the top and bottom framing pieces (the 1×4 pieces). Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Position the frame on the front of the cabinet with the side edges flush with the sides, securing in place with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Add a few brad nails through the center frame piece into the front of the shelves.

DIY Plans to Build an Eclectic Wood Sideboard_Front Frame

Step Six

Cut the piece for the top. The front and the sides will overhang by 1″. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the trim. There are no dimensions given for the trim because it will depend on the type of trim and whether it will have mitered corners or will be butted against the front piece. You can also purchase an 8′ 1×2 and cut your own trim using a router and a decorative bit!

Secure the side pieces of the trim first, using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails, then secure the front piece.

DIY Plans to Build an Eclectic Wood Sideboard_Top

DIY Plans to Build an Eclectic Wood Sideboard_Trim

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in each end of the door rails. Assemble the door frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the door panels. Set the pocket hole jig for 1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Insert the panel into the frame – with the back face flush with the back face of the frame – and secure in place using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws.

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the openings. Install the cabinet latches or pulls.

DIY Plans to Build an Eclectic Wood Sideboard_Doors 1

DIY Plans to Build an Eclectic Wood Sideboard_Doors 2

Finish as desired.

The sideboard would be a great addition as blanket or sweater storage in a bedroom, or also as a media stand for a TV! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build an Eclectic Wood sideboard? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Two Door Sideboard

Free DIY Woodworking Plans to Build a Two Door Sideboard

This sideboard is simple but elegant, and has plenty of room for decorating potential! The piece you create from the free DIY woodworking plans to build a Two-Door Sideboard can be painted, stained, stenciled, distressed, etc. – basically whatever your heart desires!

free DIY woodworking plans to build a two door sideboard_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, if desired
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 2 cabinet pulls
  • Finishing supplies

Lumber:

  • 1 – 3×3 post at 3′
  • 1 – 1×2 at 2′
  • 2 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×4 at 4′
  • 2 sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 3 x 3 posts at 4″ – Legs
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 42″ – Base
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-3/4″ x 28-1/2″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 28-1/2″ x 40-1/2″ – Back
  • 2 – 1×3 at 28-1/2″ – Front
  • 2 – 1×4 (ripped to 3″ wide) at 23-1/2″ – Front Frame
  • 2 – 1×3 at 40-1/2″ – Front Frame
  • 1 – 1×2 at 23-1/2″ – Front Frame
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/4″ x 40-1/2″- Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19″ x 43″ – Top
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ a 25-1/2″ – Doors

free DIY woodworking plans to build a two door sideboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles using a bandsaw or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the piece for the base. Position the legs so that the angles face in and the sides are flush. Secure using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws.

free DIY woodworking plans to build a two door sideboard_Legs

free DIY woodworking plans to build a two door sideboard_BaseStep Two

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the base using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws positioning the sides 3/4″ back from the front edge.

free DIY woodworking plans to build a two door sideboard_Sides

Step Three

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the sides and base using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

free DIY woodworking plans to build a two door sideboard_Back

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the front and drill pocket holes in one shorter edge only. Secure to the base using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure to the side edges using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

free DIY woodworking plans to build a two door sideboard_Front

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the frame and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Insert into the cabinet with the pocket holes facing to the inside, and secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails from the inside.

free DIY woodworking plans to build a two door sideboard_Frame 1

free DIY woodworking plans to build a two door sideboard_Frame 2Step Six

Cut the piece for the shelf and drill pocket holes as shown. Position in the cabinet, then secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

free DIY woodworking plans to build a two door sideboard_Shelf 1

free DIY woodworking plans to build a two door sideboard_Shelf 2Step Seven

Cut the piece for the top and position with 1/2″ overlapping the front and sides. Secure tot he cabinet using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws from the inside.

free DIY woodworking plans to build a two door sideboard_Top

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the doors. The sides will overlap by 1/4″, while the top and bottom will overlap by 1″. Install the hinges, then install the doors.

free DIY woodworking plans to build a two door sideboard_Doors

Finish as desired!

The free DIY woodworking plans to build a Two-Door Sideboard would also make a great piece of furniture to use as a media stand. This is a quick and easy build, and if you have questions, contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




An Easy to Build Sideboard with Open Shelving

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Open Shelf Sideboard

This sideboard is the perfect piece to stack dishes or display a collection. The DIY furniture plans to build an Open Shelf Sideboard feature two shelves with a large top. The plan can be easily adapted to make the sideboard longer or shorter to fit the space. As always, it can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Open Shelf Sideboard - Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 2″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools Needed:

  • Miter saw or Circular saw
  • Table saw
  • Iron for edge banding
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
  • Sander

Lumber:

  • 6 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 29-1/4″ – Legs
  • 6 – 1×3 at 15″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 25-1/4″ – Side Panels
  • 6 – 1×3 at 27″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 24″ x 28-1/2″ – Back
  • 9 – 1×3 at 16-1/2″ – Shelf Supports
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 27″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 31″ – Top

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Open Shelf Sideboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and side framing. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the side framing pieces. Secure the pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside faces of the framing pieces will be flush with the outside faces of the legs.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Open Shelf Sideboard - Side Frames

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the side panels and secure them to the side framing (between the legs) using glue and 1-1/2″ screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Open Shelf Sideboard - Side Panels

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front and back stretcher, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside faces of the stretchers will be flush with the outside faces of th legs.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Open Shelf Sideboard - Back Stretchers

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Open Shelf Sideboard - Front Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back to the back legs and stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Open Shelf Sideboard - Back

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of three of these pieces – they will be the center supports and will be secured to the front and back aprons. Secure the side supports to the side panels between the front and back aprons using glue and 1-1/2″ screws.

Secure the supports with the pocket holes to the center of the front and back aprons using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Open Shelf Sideboard - Shelf Supports

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Slide the shelves on top of the stretchers and supports securing in place using glue and 2″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Open Shelf Sideboard - Shelves

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang the sides and front by 1/2″. Secure the top in place using glue and 2″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Open Shelf Sideboard - Top

Finish as desired.

This sideboard is a great piece for any room, in any finish… It would also be a great piece to use different species of wood – for example, the top, side panels and shelves (the plywood pieces) could be oak and the remaining pieces could be something different. Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build an Open Shelf Sideboard? Leave a comment below!




A Beautiful Cabinet with Pieced Sliding Doors

DIY Plans to Build a Simone Sideboard

Don’t let the pieced doors fool you into thinking that this cabinet is not an easy build… The DIY plans to build a Simone Sideboard feature sliding doors with a glass or Plexiglas panel behind a lattice-type of frame with a large shelf inside. The doors are pieced with 1/2″ thick craft boards and 1×2 framing. This is a super-easy build that can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Simone Sideboard-Copy

 

DIY Plans to Build a Simone Sideboard-Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-3/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • Sliding door hardware like this
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 4 – 1/2″ x 6″ craft boards, generally sold in 3′ or 4′ lengths
  • 4 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 3 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1/4″ Glass or Plexiglas

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 35-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 14″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14″ x 28-1/4″ – Side Panels
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 45″ – Top & Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 45″ – Shelf
  • 2 – 1×2 at 17″ – Top Side Trim
  • 1 – 1×2 (ripped to 1″ wide) at 48″ – Top Front Trim
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 31-1/4″ x 46-1/2″ – Back
  • 4 – 1×2 at 30-1/4″ – Door Stiles
  • 4 – 1×2 at 19-1/2″ – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1/2″ x 6″ craft boards (ripped to 1″ wide) at 27-1/4″ – Door (shown in Dark Blue)
  • 8 – 1/2″ x 6″ craft boards (ripped to 1″ wide) at 3″ – Door (shown in Green)
  • 4 – 1/2″ x 6″ craft boards (ripped to 1″ wide) at 11-1/2″ – Door (shown in Pink)
  • 6 – 1/2″ x 6″ craft boards (ripped to 1″ wide) at 19-1/4″ – Door (shown in Purple)
  • Glass or Plexiglas cut to fit

DIY Plans to Build a Simone Sideboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and side framing. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the panels inside the side framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside faces of the panels will be flush with the inside faces of the legs and framing.

DIY Plans to Build a Simone Sideboard-Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the top and bottom. Cut the grooves toward the front edges as shown. Refer to the manufacturer’s installation instruction for the exact width and depth of the grooves. The first groove will be located 3/4″ back from the front edge of the piece, and the second groove will be located 7/8″ behind the back edge of the first groove (to allow the doors to slide past each other easily!).

Drill pocket holes on the side opposite the grooves for the bottom. Secure the bottom to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Set the piece for the top aside.

DIY Plans to Build a Simone Sideboard-Top & Bottom

DIY Plans to Build a Simone Sideboard-Bottom

Step Three

Cut the piece for the shelf and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the shelf to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back edge of the shelf will be flush with the back legs.

Finish the cabinet as desired.

DIY Plans to Build a Simone Sideboard-Shelf

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 rails. Assemble the outer frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner lattice frames. Set the pocket hole jig for 1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in the pieces as indicated. Assemble the frame using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws, then attach to the outer frame. The outside face of the lattice frame will be flush with the outside face of the outer frame.

Where the shorter green pieces attach to the dark blue pieces, the green pieces are too short to accommodate a pocket hole in each end (plus the pocket hole screw will conflict with the pocket hole screw in the pink pieces). The green pieces can be secured to the dark blue pieces using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

Finish the doors as desired.

DIY Plans to Build a Simone Sideboard-Door Frame

Step Five

Cut a piece of glass or Plexiglas to fit over the lattice frame inside the outer frame. Secure the glass or Plexiglas in place with spots of adhesive.

Install the sliding door hardware on the doors according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

DIY Plans to Build a Simone Sideboard-Doors 1

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the top trim. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in the side edges of the top panel (previously cut and “grooved” – the pocket holes will be on the same face as the grooves) as well as the front edge of the side trim pieces. Secure the trim pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the front trim piece using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The center of the front trim piece can be secured to the panel using 1-3/4″ brad nails.

Finish the top as desired. Insert the doors in the opening with the hardware in the groove, then test fit the top. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails through the top into the side panels.

DIY Plans to Build a Simone Sideboard-Top 1

DIY Plans to Build a Simone Sideboard-Doors 2

DIY Plans to Build a Simone Sideboard-Top 2

Step Seven

Pre-finish the back. Secure the back using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Simone Sideboard-Back

If you cannot get the sliding door hardware (a link is provided above), fender washers with screws can also be used. The depth of the groove will be cut at 3/8″, and the washers will be attached to the back side of the door with 1/2″ sticking out of the top and bottom. This will allow the washer to glide in the track with a 1/8″ gap between the door and the top or bottom.

Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Simone Sideboard? Leave a comment below!




A Simple Buffet with Plain Doors

DIY Plans to Build a Caroline Buffet

The simple lines and plain doors of this buffet are perfectly modern… The DIY plans to build a Caroline Buffet feature shelving behind the doors (two on one side, three on the other) as well as shelving below the cabinet itself. The doors are plain and can be left that way or stenciled for a bit of pop! This is another excellent project that can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Caroline Buffet_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 12″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 13″ – Side Framing
  • 4 – 2×2 at 37″ – Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13″ x 37″ – Lower Shelf
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 18″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 38-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-1/4″ x 38-1/2″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-1/4″ x 17-1/4″ – Divider
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-1/4″ x 18-7/8″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 40″ – Top
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-3/4″ x 19-15/16″ – Doors

DIY Plans to Build a Caroline Buffet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side framing. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Orient the pieces so the pocket holes face up on the upper pieces and down on the lower pieces. This way, they will be hidden and won’t have to be filled.

DIY Plans to Build a Caroline Buffet_Base Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Orient the pieces in the same manner as the side framing.

DIY Plans to Build a Caroline Buffet_Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the shelf. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the shelf to the lower framing and stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face will be flush with the top faces of the framing and stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build a Caroline Buffet_Lower Shelf

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the lower edges only. Secure the sides to the base framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside face of the sides will be flush with the outside face of the base framing.

DIY Plans to Build a Caroline Buffet_Sides

Step Five

Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the base framing between the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Caroline Buffet_Bottom

Step Six

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the side and lower edges. Secure the back to the bottom and the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Caroline Buffet_Back

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes in the lower and back edge only. Secure the divider to the bottom and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Caroline Buffet_Divider

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Secure the shelves to the divider and sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Caroline Buffet_Shelves 1

DIY Plans to Build a Caroline Buffet_Shelves 2

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Caroline Buffet_Top

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8″ gap between the doors. Install the hinges on the door, then install the door on the cabinet. Install the cabinet pull.

DIY Plans to Build a Caroline Buffet_Doors

Finish as desired.

This is a great piece to use in virtually any room – as a media stand, in a large bathroom, in a bedroom, etc. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Caroline Buffet? Leave a comment below.




A Beautiful Sideboard with Faux Paneled Doors

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard

This sideboard is the perfect piece for those who like large pieces with tons of storage. The DIY plans to build a Long Paneled Sideboard feature four doors with narrow trim on the front, shelves inside, and a drawer in the center space. This piece measures six feet long and can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Copy

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1/2″ screws
  • Edge banding
  • 1 set of 16″Drawer slides
  • 4 sets of hinges
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×4 at 8′
  • 3 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 3 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood
  • 8 – 1/4″ thick x 1/2″ wide trim at 8′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 5-1/2″ – Base Legs
  • 5 – 2×2 at 16″ – Base Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 69″ – Base Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 19″ x 30-3/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 30-3/4″ x 70-1/2″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/4″ x 70-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/4″ x 30″ – Dividers
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-1/4″ x 17-1/4″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-1/4″ x 34-1/2″ – Center Shelf
  • 2 – 1×2 at 17-1/4″ – Stretchers
  • 1 – 1×2 at 34-1/2″ – Center Stretcher
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19″ x 72″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×4 at 14-1/2″ – Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 1×4 at 32″ – Drawer Front & Back
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 14-7/8″ x 30-7/8″ – Drawer Bottom
  • 4 – 1/2″ plywood at 17″ x 29″ – Door Base
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 17″ – Center Filler
  • Trim pieces cut to fit

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the base framing and the legs. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Assemble the base as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Base

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in the lower edge only. Secure the sides to the base frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside face of the side will be flush with the outside edge of the base.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Sides

Step Three

Cut the piece for the back, and drill pocket holes in the side and lower edges. Secure the back to the base and the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Back

Step Four

Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure the bottom to the base between the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Bottom

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the dividers, and drill pocket holes in the back and lower edges only. Secure the dividers to the bottom and back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Dividers

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the shelves, and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges only. Secure the outer shelves to the side, divider, and back of the outer (narrower) cubbies as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The shelves will be positioned 1″ back from the front edge of the sides and dividers, making it flush with the back. This is to allow for the doors.

The center shelf will be positioned slightly lower than the outer shelves to allow room for the drawer. This shelf will also be positioned 1″ back from the front edge of the dividers, making it flush with the back. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Shelves

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the sides and dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Stretchers

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The top will be flush with the cabinet on all sides.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Top

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers. The spacers will allow the drawer to open and close without interference from the doors. Secure the spacers in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. These pieces will be located 1/4″ below the stretcher, and 1″ back from the front edge of the dividers.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Drawer Spacers

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the drawers. A 1/4″ wide x 1/4″ deep groove will be cut in the lower edge of each piece to create a channel for the drawer bottom. This can be done using a straight bit on a router, or by lowering the blade on a table saw and making two passes through.

Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces, opposite of the channels. When drilling the pocket holes, locate them so they will not interfere with the channels. Secure the sides to the back piece using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom and slide the bottom into the channels. It should be a semi-snug fit, and should fit easily. Place the drawer front piece over the assembly with the bottom in the channel and secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Install the drawer slides on the drawer and on the spacers, then adjust as necessary. The drawer should be positioned 1/4″ below the stretcher and should move easily.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Drawer Sides & Back 1

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Drawer Sides & Back 2

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Drawer Bottom

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Drawer Front

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Drawer in Cabinet

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the doors. The plans are drawn using 1/4″ thick x 1/2″ wide trim. The dimensions in the drawing for the trim are approximate, and the trim should be cut to fit. Wider trim can also be used.

Secure the trim pieces using glue and clamp in place. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls as desired.

One of the center doors will have a filler secured to the back to hide the center gap. The filler can go on either side and will be secured using glue and 1/2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Doors 1

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Center Filler

DIY Plans to Build a Long Paneled Sideboard_Doors 2

Finish as desired.

This sideboard is an excellent piece for storing linens and china, and can also be used to store backpacks and shoes in an entryway! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Long Paneled Sideboard? Leave a comment below!




A Cabinet Created by Combining Two Different Plans

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet

I was contacted by a reader who asked if I could create plans for a cabinet combining the Esmerelda Buffet and the Myron Sideboard. The reader liked the drawers on one cabinet and the doors on the other, so I combined the two to create the DIY plans to build a Doyle Cabinet! The cabinet features three drawers, two cabinets with doors and X detail, and an open center cabinet with an adjustable shelf. The top is a plywood panel with solid wood edges so that a decorative edge can be cut with a router.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  •  2 pieces of glass, Plexiglas or acrylic at 14-1/4″ x 23-3/4″
  • Mirror clips
  • 4 – 1/4″ shelf pins
  • 3 sets of 16″ drawer slides
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 2 magnetic catches
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 1 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 4 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 3 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 41-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 16″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 34-1/4″ – Side Panels
  • 5 – 2×2 at 56″ – Back Framing & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 34-1/4″ x 56″ – Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 56″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 2×2 at 5-3/4″ – Divider Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 27″ – Divider Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 35-3/4″ – Divider Panels
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 18″ – Center Drawer Shelf
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 18-1/4″ – Outer Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-1/2″ x 17-3/4″ – Adjustable Center Shelf
  • 2 – 1×2 at 16″ – Drawer Slide Spacers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 57″ – Top Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 17″ – Top Side Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 60″ – Top Front & Back Trim
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 15 – Outer Drawer Box Bottom
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 14″ – Outer Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 16-1/2″ – Outer Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 15-1/2″ – Center Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 14″ – Center Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 17″ – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 17-1/4″ – Outer Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 17-3/4″ – Center Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1×2 at 25″ – X Detail
  • 4 – 1×2 at 12-1/8″ – X Detail
  • 4 – 1×3 at 12-1/4″ – Door Frame
  • 4 – 1×3 at 26-3/4″ – Door Frame

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side framing, and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material, and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the side panels. Secure the panels to the framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the framing and legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the back framing, the front stretchers, and the back panel. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the framing and stretcher pieces. Secure the framing to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material, and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back panel. Secure the panel to the framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the framing and legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Back

Step Three

Secure the front stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Front Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the bottom will be flush with the top face of the lowest stretcher.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Bottom

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the divider framing. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the divider framing pieces. Secure the framing to the front stretchers using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Divider Framing

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material, and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges of the divider panels. On the opposite side of the panels, mark the position of the shelf pins then use a shelf pin jig and a 1/4″ shelf pin drill bit to drill the holes. More holes can be drilled as desired.

Secure the divider panels to the center framing with the shelf pin holes facing the center of the cabinet. This face (of each panel) will also be flush with the center facing edge of the divider framing. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Dividers 1

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Dividers 2

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the center drawer shelf and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the shelf to the middle front stretcher, the dividers, and the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Center Drawer Shelf

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the outer shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the back edges. Secure the shelves to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Outer Shelves

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the center shelf. Insert the shelf pins into the holes then place the shelf on the pins.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Center Shelf

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide spacers. These pieces will be located just above the middle front stretcher, and will be secured to the divider panels using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Drawer Slide Spacers

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the top panel and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in each end of the top side trim pieces as well as all four edges of the top panel. Secure the side trim pieces to the panel first using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then secure the front and pack trim pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

The top will overhang the cabinet by 1/2″ on all sides. Spread glue on the top of the framing pieces, the upper front stretcher, and the dividers the position the top. Secure in place using 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Top 1

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Top 2

Step Twelve

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs and divider framing. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Outer Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Outer Drawer FB

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Center Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Center Drawer FB

Step Thirteen

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Drawer Fronts

Step Fourteen

Cut the pieces for the X detail pieces. Cut the angles as shown in the drawing and drill pocket holes in the angled edges. One pocket hole in each angled edge will be sufficient if two pocket holes will not fit. Assemble the X detail pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_X Detail 1

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_X Detail 2

Step Fifteen

Cut the pieces for the door frames and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Insert the X detail pieces into the frame and make adjustments to the angles as necessary. Secure the X detail pieces in the center of the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Position the glass, Plexiglass or acrylic over the inside of the frame and secure in place with mirror clips.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Doors 1

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Doors 2

Step Sixteen

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the doors in the openings. Install the cabinet pulls, then install the magnetic catches to keep the doors closed.

DIY Plans to Build a Doyle Cabinet_Doors 3

Finish as desired.

This is a really great cabinet that will work well in any room. The DIY plans to build a Doyle cabinet are easy to follow and though the angles in the X detail may be intimidating for some, they are really easy to create! Have any questions about the Doyle Cabinet plans? Leave a comment below!




A Sideboard to Build with X Detail and Lots of Storage

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard

This sideboard, though it may look complicated, is really easy to build. The DIY plans to build a Myron Sideboard features two doors with X detail and Plexiglas (plus a shelf behind each door), and three drawers. The top is constructed of plywood with solid wood edges. this is a fabulous plan for those new to woodworking and can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Plexiglas or Acrylic for door panels
  • 3 sets of 12″ drawer slides
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 32-1/2″ – Legs
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 28-1/2″ – Side Panels
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 28-1/2″ x 54″ – Back
  • 2 – 2×2 at 54″ – Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 54″ – Bottom Shelf
  • 2 – 1×2 at 25-1/2″ – Front Dividers
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/4″ x 27″ – Divider Panels
  • 2 – 1×2 at 17″ – Drawer Dividers
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 17-3/4″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 55″ – Top Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 14-1/2″ – Top Side Trim
  • 1 – 1×2 at 58″ – Top Front Trim
  • 4 – 1×3 at 11-3/4″ – Door Frame
  • 4 – 1×3 at 25-1/4″ – Door Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 23-3/8″ – Door X Detail
  • 4 – 1×2 at 11-5/16″ – Door X Detail
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/2″ x 14-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – 1×6 at 10-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1×6 at 16″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-1/4″ x 16-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each long edge of the side panels. Secure the side panels to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Sides

Step Two

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each of the shorter edges. Secure the back panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Back

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the front legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece for the bottom shelf. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the bottom shelf to the side panels, back panel, and lower front stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the panel will be flush with the top face of the lower stretcher.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Shelf

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the front dividers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the front dividers to the front stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the divider panels and cut the notch using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown treating the pieces as a left and a right. Secure the divider panels to the back, bottom shelf, and front dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside face of the dividers panels (with the pocket holes) will be flush with the inside edges of the front dividers. This way, the pocket holes will be hidden by the drawer boxes.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Front Dividers

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Dividers 1

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Dividers 2

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Secure the shelves in each cubby as shown, securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Shelves

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in each side edge as well as one long edge of the top panel. Also drill pocket holes in one end of each shorter trim piece. Secure the side trim pieces to the sides of the top panel using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the front trim piece using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Top 1

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Top 2

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the front dividers. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Drawer FB

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Drawer Fronts

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the door frame and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the door frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the X detail. The angles can be cut by setting the miter saw to the angle degree given or by making a mark on the board at the dimension indicated and drawing a diagonal line from one corner of the board to the mark then cutting with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. One pocket hole can be drilled at each end of the pieces, as well. Dry fit the pieces first trimming the angles as necessary. Secure the pieces inside the door frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Door Frame

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Door X 1

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Door X 2

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces of Plexiglas or acrylic as shown. The material will overlap the opening of the door frame by 1/2″ on each side. Drill a hole in each corner and secure the material to the inside of the door frames using a 3/4″ screw.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Door Panel

Install the hinges on the door, then install the doors in the openings. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the doors in the openings.

DIY Plans to Build a Myron Sideboard_Hinges & Knobs

Finish as desired.

The sideboard would be an excellent addition to any room. It would also make a fabulous media stand! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Myron Sideboard? Leave a comment below!




An Interesting Twist to a Simple Sideboard

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard

This is a very simple sideboard but what sets it apart from other “simple” sideboards are the squares on the front doors! The DIY plans to build a Cato Sideboard feature two large doors and a shelf inside. The squares overlap the space between the doors for a very cohesive look. Even though there are 120 squares to cut, the sideboard can still be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Copy

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ screws
  • 5/8″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 5-1/2″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 12″ – Base Frame
  • 2 – 2×2 at 53″ – Base Frame
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/4″ x 56″ – Bottom & Top
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/4″ x 28-1/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 28-1/4″ x 54-1/2″ – Back
  • 2 – 1×2 at 13″ – Shelf Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 54-1/2″ – Shelf Frame
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-1/2″ x 54-1/2″ – Shelf
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 27-15/16″ x 29-3/4″ – Door Base
  • 120 – 1/4″ plywood at 3-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ – Decorative Squares

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly!

Cut the pieces for the base frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Base Frame

Step Two

Cut the piece for the bottom. The longer edges of the bottom piece will overhang the base frame by 1″ on each side. Secure the bottom to the base frame using glue and 1-1/2″ countersunk screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Bottom

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each of the shorter edges. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Sides

Step Four

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the back to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Back

Step Five

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The edges of the top will be flush with the sides and the back.

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Top

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the shelf frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Position the frame inside the cabinet as shown. The back of the frame will be flush with the back of the cabinet making the frame location 1″ from the front edge of the sides. Secure the frame in place using glue and countersunk 1-1/2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Shelf Frame 1

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Shelf Frame 2

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the shelf. Position the shelf on top of the frame and secure in place with glue and countersunk 1-1/2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Shelf

Step Eight

Cut the door base pieces and the squares for the front of the doors. The squares on the left hand door will overlap the space between the doors and will rest on the right hand door. The squares on the right hand door will start 1-15/16″ away from the left hand edge – see drawings. The squares will be flush with the outer sides, top, and bottom of the doors base. The spacing between the squares is 1/4″. (Scrap pieces of the 1/4″ plywood can be used as spacers when securing the squares to the doors.) Secure the squares in place using glue and 5/8″ brad nails.

Install the hinges on the doors then install the doors on the cabinet.

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Doors 1

DIY Plans to Build a Cato Sideboard_Doors 2

Finish as desired.

Any type of finish would look fabulous on this sideboard – painted one color, a dark stain, the glue resist technique on a few of the squares on the doors, or even stenciling! The DIY plans to build a Cato Sideboard are suitable for beginners and if there are any questions about the plans, leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!