Build a Bookcase Using an Old Door

How to Build a Bookcase Using an Old Door

The folks at PureBond Plywood posted a picture of a bookcase made with an old door on the PureBond Facebook page and I thought it was a fabulous idea! That particular bookcase was created by Gail at My Repurposed Life ~ how fantastic! I searched for an old door and finally found one at one of our local flea markets for $45 ~ not too bad since it was in fabulous condition and was bare wood which meant less work for me (no paint to strip)!

how to build a bookcase using an old door SANY2119 copy

I read Gail’s “how to” on the project and created instructions on how to build a bookcase using an old door with a few modifications. I added frames under the shelves, and a few more shelves but that was only because I can’t read my own instructions ~ lesson learned (I created them, too, which makes it really sad!!).

how to build a bookcase using an old door

Materials:

  • Solid wood door (mine was 30″ wide)
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 5 – 1×2 at 8′ (for 24″ wide frames)
  • 1 sheet of 3/4″ plywood (I used Purebond in Birch)
  • 1 sheet of 1/4″  lauan, plywood, or hardboard (for a continuous piece on the back – the back can be pieced if the seam is hidden behind a shelf!)
  • Trim for the top and bottom (I made mine with a routed edge on 1x material)

The drawings show dimensions – they are based on a 30″ door. Adjust the dimensions for a wider or narrower door!

Start by cutting the door in half lengthwise using a table saw or a circular saw and a helper!

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2052 

Cut the pieces for the shelf frames. Start with the side pieces ~ the top and bottom side pieces will be longer than the middle side pieces. Measure the width of the door. The top and bottom side pieces will be 1-3/4″” shorter than the width of the door. Position the pieces so that they are flush with the top edge and bottom edge of the door, and are 3/4″ back from the front edge (I used a spacer flush with the front edge). This will allow the front and back frame pieces to fit flush with the edges of the side pieces, as well as allow for the 1/4″ thick back to fit inside. (My side pieces are different in the photo because I didn’t read my own directions ~ doh!!)

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2053

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2054    

The middle side pieces will be 2-1/2″ shorter than the width of the door. This allows the front frame pieces to be set farther back so the shelf overlaps them which I think looks a lot nicer! Cut two spacers equal to the distance between the side frame pieces for the shelf position. This will allow the side pieces to be positioned at exactly the same distance without having to mark and measure everything. This is where I realized I screwed up ~ I wanted more space between the shelves and well, Gorilla Wood Glue is really strong so I couldn’t remove the side pieces I’d already installed… I also used a 1-1/2″ spacer at the front edge so that the distance was where I wanted it to be!

 how to build a bookcase using an old door 2055

Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers (I forgot to take a picture of this step, so drawings will have to do!). Fasten them to the front and back of the side spacers to join the sides together using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

how to build a bookcase using an old door_Stretchers

Cut the pieces for the shelves. They will all be the same size but the middle shelves will overlap the frames by 3/4″. The front edge of the bottom shelf will be flush with the edge of the frame. It looks nicer this way! Secure them to the frames using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

how to build a bookcase using an old door_ShelvesCut the piece for the top. It will overlap by 1″ at the sides and front. Secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

how to build a bookcase using an old door_Top

I created my own trim by routing both edges of a 1×6 board, then ripping the board on the table saw. The upper trim is approximately 7/8″ wide, and the lower trim is approximately 2-1/4″ wide. I cut mitered corners on the pieces, then attached them to the bookcase using 1-1/4″ brad nails. I cut the top to overlap the trim by 1/4″ on each side, as well as the front. The top was attached using 1-1/4″ brad nails.

 how to build a bookcase using an old door 2105

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2106

The color I chose is Strawberry Daquiri in Behr Premium Plus Ultra (which is now my new fave!!). I applied three coats. I cut a piece of 1/4″ lauan to fit inside the back then painted it also. Once everything was dry, I secured the back to the bookcase using brad nails.

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2107

how to build a bookcase using an old door 2108

I have a small plate to put over the hole for the door knob but I haven’t put it on yet. I may put half of the hinges back in the mortises. They are rusty and will look cool!!

She has already been sold! Woo hoo!! I’m so excited to have her go to a great new home!

The tutorial on how to build a bookcase using an old door is very easy to follow and I hope it inspires you to build your own. If you have any questions, contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

Sharing with My Repurposed LifeSavvy Southern Style, French Country CottageMy Romantic Home Show & Tell Friday, DIY Show OffFunky Junk Interiors, Cupcakes and Corndogs, Sawdust Girl’s Sawdust Throwdown, Beneath My Heart DIY Projects of April




An Excellent Place to Store Coats and Shoes

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet

Sometimes, there just isn’t a place to store coats within reach and keep the area looking organized but I may have a solution… The DIY plans to buils a Coat Cabinet feature glass (or Plexiglass doors) with hooks inside to hang coats and jackets, as well as a bin on the bottom to store shoes! The cabinet is just deep enough to house a backpack or tote bag without taking up a lot of space. As usual, this is another fabulously easy project that can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet-Copy

Materials:

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 2′
  • 1 – 1×4 at 4′
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 25″ – Bottom
  • 4 – 1×3 at 2-1/2″ – Support Blocks
  • 4 – 1×4 (ripped to 2-3/4″ wide) at 4″ – Feet
  • 4 – 1×4 at 4″ – Feet
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 50″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 23-1/2″ x 50″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 25″ – Top
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-3/4″ x 23-1/2″ – Shelf
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 23-1/4″ – Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/4″ – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 12-3/4″ x 22-3/4″ – Drawer Bottom
  • 4 – 1×2 at 8-9/16″ – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1×2 at 37″ – Door Stiles

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the support blocks. Secure the support blocks to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet-Bottom

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the feet. Cut the angles in the feet as shown. Secure the wider feet to the front and back of the bottom (with the side edges flush) and the support blocks using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails. Secure the narrower feet to the bottom and support blocks using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails. Add a few brad nails through the wider feet into the narrower feet.

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet-Feet 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the sides. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside faces of the sides will be flush with the outside edges of the bottom.

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet-Sides

Step Four

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the back to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet-Back

Step Five

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet-Top

Step Six

Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Secure the shelf in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet-Shelf

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box front and back pieces on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet-Drawer 1

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet-Drawer 2

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight. 

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet-Drawer 3

Step Nine

Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box front to the drawer box sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet-Drawer 4

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet-Drawer Front

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rails locating them so that the rabbeting router bit (for the Plexiglas or glass panel) will not interfere. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Use a router and a 1/4″ rabbeting bit to cut a 1/4″ deep rabbet along the inside of the frame. Use a chisel and a hammer to square the corners of the rabbet.

Insert the glass or Plexiglass and secure in place using turnbuttons or a narrow bead of adhesive.

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the doors in the opening as well as in between them.

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet-Doors 1

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet-Doors 2

DIY Plans to Build a Coat Cabinet-Doors 3

Finish as desired. Secure the coat hooks to the inside back of the cabinet.

Mirrors or decorative punched aluminum can be used as the panels in the doors for a different look. If there are any questions about the DIY plans to build a Coat Cabinet, leave a comment below!




Build a Wine Bottle Gift Box

Easy Plans to Build a Wood Wine Gift Box Perfect for Holiday Gift-Giving!

It is not too early to think about the holidays… This little wood gift box is perfect for sharing a bottle of your favorite wine, champagne, or sparkling soda complete with a couple of glasses, as well as a bit of cheese and a few crackers. It would also work well to transport a bottle and glasses on a romantic picnic! The stemware holder can be omitted and the box could hold three bottles of wine or champagne, or maybe even a few special hot sauces. I am planning on building a couple out of oak Purebond plywood using the glue resist technique on the front for a special touch!

build wine bottle gift box_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 3/4″ hole saw or paddle bit
  • 1 set of hinges
  • 1 drawer pull or utility handle
  • 1 small hasp lock
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 quarter sheet of 1/2″ plywood (2′ x 4′)

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 12-1/4″ – Box Sides
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 13-1/4″ – Box Top & Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 12-1/4″ x 12-1/4″ – Box & Lid Panel
  • 4 – 1/2″ plywood at 3-5/8″ x 4″ – Stemware Holder & Shelf
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 4″ x 12-1/4″ – Dividers
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 12-1/4″ – Lid Sides
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 1-1/2″ x 13-1/4″ – Lid Top & Bottom

build wine bottle gift box

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes:

Sand each piece thoroughly before assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the box. Use glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails to attach the box sides to the panel, then secure the top and bottom.

diy wood wine gift box_Box

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the stemware holder. Make a mark as indicated on the pieces. Cut a 3/4″ hole using a hole saw or a paddle bit. Draw a line from the outside edge of the circle to the bottom of the piece (on each side of the circle) to cut the notch for the stemware holder. Cut the lines using a jigsaw, then sand smooth.

diy wood wine gift box_Stem Holder

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the shelves and the dividers. Secure the shelves and the stemware holders to the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Note that there will be a right and a left piece. Secure the pieces in the box using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

diy wood wine gift box_Dividers 1

 

diy wood wine gift box_Dividers 2

 

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the lid. Assemble the lid in the same manner as the box. Finish as desired then install the hinges, the handle, and the hasp lock.

diy wood wine gift box_Door 1

 

diy wood wine gift box_Door 2

How excited will your family and friends be when you show off your DIY skills to build this wood wine gift box? It is the perfect project for all skill levels!




Build a Marconi Media Console

Free Plans to Build a Marconi Media Console

If I needed a new media console,I would definitely add the free plans to build a Marconi media console to my list! I love the modular look and clean lines! This would be so fabulous painted in a bright color with stenciled doors or equally awesome in a weathered finish!

free plans to build a marconi media console_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 3 sets of non-mortise hinges
  • 3 cabinet pulls
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Finishing supplies

Lumber:

  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood

 Cut List:

  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 20” – Sides & Middle Divider
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-3/4” – Dividers
  • 8 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 18-1/2” – Shelf Supports
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 20” – Shelves
  • 8 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 13-1/2” – Kick Plates
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x  13-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x  27-3/4” – Stretchers
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x  18-1/2” – Cleats
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 20” – Tops
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 29-1/4” – Tops
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 14-1/2” x 14-3/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 14-3/4” x 28-3/4” – Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 13-1/4” – Doors

free plans to build a marconi media console

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the sides, dividers, and shelf supports. Secure the shelf supports to the bottom of each piece (and both sides of each taller divider as well as the middle divider) then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Allow ¾” on each side of the supports for the kick plates.

free plans to build a marconi media console_Sides & Supports 

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Secure to the top of the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

free plans to build a marconi media console_Shelves 

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the kick plates. Secure to both the front and the back using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

free plans to build a marconi media console_Kick Plates

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

free plans to build a marconi media console_Stretchers

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the cleats. Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

free plans to build a marconi media console_Cleats 

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the tops. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

free plans to build a marconi media console_Tops 

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the backs. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

free plans to build a marconi media console_Backs 

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then install the cabinet pulls.

free plans to build a marconi media console_Doors

Finish as desired!

The free plans to build a Marconi media console are great for a beginner… They are easy to construct and will help you complete a fabulous piece of furniture in no time! Have a request for a plan? Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com or designsbystudioc {at} gmail {dot} com. I would love to create a plan for you!

#DIY #Woodworking #Build




Plans for a Wood Low-Slung Chair Perfect for Relaxing

Build a Low-Slung Chair

With Fall just around the corner, I have created the perfect plans to build a low slung chair for relaxing by the fire pit, outdoor movie night, or even as seating for a game room! If you are nervous about attempting to build a chair, don’t be… Chairs are one of the easiest pieces of furniture to construct and once you build your first one, you will be addicted – like me! The chair is designed to be constructed of straight off-the-shelf lumber. If it is going to be used and left outdoors, make sure the lumber is either chemically treated, sealed with spar varnish, or painted with exterior paint. This way the chair will last for many relaxing moments by the fire! A basic knowledge of sewing a straight line is helpful to construct pillows for the seat and back. In fact, using outdoor fabric for the covers, and stuffing made using recycled plastic bags would be the perfect cushioning! (See my post How to Make Outdoor Cushions Using Recycled Plastic Bags.) If you are a beginner, don’t be afraid to jump right in! I can always be contacted at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com and will be happy to walk you through the build! Let me know – I’m here to help!

build low slung chair_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies

Lumber:

  • 2 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 4×4 post at 8’**

Cut List:

  • 2 – 4×4 posts at 10″ – Front Legs
  • 2 – 4×4 posts at 10-3/4″ – Lower Back Legs
  • 2 – 4×4 at 15″ – Upper Back Legs
  • 3 – 2×4 at 24″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×4 at 22″ – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 26-1/2″ x 30″ – Seat
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 24″ – Back

 build low slung chair

** 2 – 2x4s glued and screwed together face to face will also work. If using this method, the side stretchers will have to be lengthened by 1″.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the front legs and stretcher. Set the pocket hole jig for drilling into 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes at each end of the stretcher. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Position the stretcher so that the front face is set back 1/4″ from the front face of the legs.

wood chair plans - low slung_Front Frame

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower back legs. Cut a 5 degree angle in the lower edge of the upper back leg. Because the post is wider than a regular pocket hole jig allows for, drill pocket holes in each side of the angled portion of the legs (see the drawings). This will make the back extra sturdy so it doesn’t come apart when it is leaned on! Secure the upper and lower legs to each other using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

wood chair plans - low slung_Back Legs 1

wood chair plans - low slung_Back Legs 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. 

wood chair plans - low slung_Back Frame

Step Four

Cut the pieces  for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Position the stretchers so that the outside face is 1/4″ back from the outside face of the legs.

wood chair plans - low slung_Side Stretchers

Step Five

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw or a bandsaw, then attach to the seat frame using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. 

wood chair plans - low slung_Seat 1

wood chair plans - low slung_Seat 2

Step Six

Cut the piece for the back. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Insert the piece into the upper back on top of the seat then secure using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The front face of the back will be flush with the front face of the back legs. 

wood chair plans - low slung_Chair Back

Finish as desired. Sew a couple of pillows for the seat and back, and voila!! Awesome seating! Build one or build several… These plans to build a low-slung chair are just the ticket for indoor or outdoor use! I plan on building a few for myself! Any questions? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet

Here is another customizable plan for a file cabinet. The depth should stay the same but the length can be increased to fit your needs! Click on the drawings to enlarge them!

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet

Materials:

  • One sheet of 3/4″ plywood (I used Purebond plywood)
  • Edge banding to match the 3/4″ plywood
  • One half sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • One half sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • Two – 1/8″ x 1/2″ x 36″ strips of aluminum
  • Four 1/4″ nylon spacers
  • Four 1″ screws to mount the aluminum
  • Four sets of 14″ drawer slides (ball bearing 3/4 extension)
  • Four drawer handles

Tools:

  • Table saw, jigsaw or circular saw
  • Drill
  • Kreg jig and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • Brad nailer and 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Square and pencil

Cut List:

  • Two – 3/4″ plywood @ 15″ x 48″ – Sides
  • One – 3/4″ plywood @ 18″ x 48″ – Back
  • One – 3/4″ plywood @ 14-1/4″ x 16-1/2″ – Bottom
  • One – 3/4″ plywood @ 4-7/8″ x 16-1/2″ – Kick Plate
  • Two – 3/4″ plywood @ 2-1/2″ x 16-1/2″ – Interior Supports
  • Two – 3/4″ plywood @ 6-1/2″ x 17-3/4″ – Smaller Drawer Fronts
  • Two – 3/4″ plywood @ 15-1/4″ x 17-3/4″ – Larger Drawer Fronts
  • Four – 1/2″ plywood @ 5-1/2″ x 15-1/4″ – Smaller Drawer Boxes
  • Four – 1/2″ plywood @ 5-1/2″ x 13″ – Smaller Drawer Boxes
  • Four – 1/2″ plywood @ 13″ x 15-1/4″ – Larger Drawer Boxes
  • Four – 1/2″ plywood @ 13″ x 13″ – Larger Drawer Boxes
  • Four – 1/4″ plywood @ 14″ x 15-1/4″ – Drawer Bottoms

Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Drill pocket holes for 3/4″ material in the top of the sides, as well as one long edge at the back. Also drill pocket holes in the top edge of the back. Remember, there will be a right and left! Attach the sides to the back using glue and pocket hole screws.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_Back

Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes in the edges to attach the bottom to the sides and back. Use glue and pocket hole screws to secure the bottom to the sides and back as shown.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_Bottom

Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end of this piece and attach to the sides of the cabinet. The top of the kick plate will be flush with the top face of the bottom piece.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_Kick Plate

Cut the piece for the top. Attach the top to the sides and back using glue and pocket hole screws through the pocket holes at the top of the sides and back into the top.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_Top

Cut the pieces for the inner supports. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides as shown with glue and pocket hole screws.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_Interior Supports

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. They can be assembled using glue with pocket holes (for 1/2″ material), brad nails, or countersunk screws. I used glue and brad nails to assemble the drawers for my file cabinet. Attach the bottom using glue and brad nails.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_Drawer Boxes

Attach the drawer hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The dimensions shown on the drawing are to the bottom of the smaller upper drawers, and the middle of the larger lower drawers.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_Drawer Slide Placement

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8″ gap between the fronts to allow the drawers to freely open and close. For an easy tutorial on how to attach the fronts, click here.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_Drawer Fronts

To attach the aluminum strips for the file folders, cut the strips into four 13″ long pieces. Pre-drill a hole in each end of the strip and attach the strips with the 1″ pan head screws each through a spacer into the larger drawer boxes.

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_SANY1257

 

Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_SANY1259

 Free Furniture Plans to Build a File Cabinet_SANY1260 

** Please note – these plans are designed and created by me. They are not to be sold without express written consent from me. They can be shared on any site as long as they are credited back to me!




A Roomy Chest with a Greek Key Design

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest

Previously, I posted plans to build a Greek Key Dresser. This chest would be the perfect companion! The DIY plans to build a Greek Key Chest feature two large and roomy drawers with a detailed Greek Key design on each drawer front. This chest would be the perfect place to store bulky sweaters or blankets, and would work well for storing china dinnerware as well as linens!

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 2 sets of 18″ Drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×6 at 4′
  • 4 – 1×12 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 5 – 1/4″ x 1″ Lattice strips at 8′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 29-1/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 29-1/4″ x 42-1/2″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 42-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 5-1/2″ – Feet
  • 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 4-3/4″ – Feet
  • 2 – 1×2 at 9″ – Base Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 33″ – Base Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18-1/2″ – Base Frame Supports
  • 2 – 1×2 at 42-1/2″ – Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 44″ – Top
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 40″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 4 – 1×12 at 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1×12 at 41-1/2″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-7/16″ x 42-1/4″ – Drawer Fronts
  • 4 – 1/4″ x 1″ lattice strips at 17-5/8″ – Greek Key Design
  • 2 – 1/4″ x 1″ lattice strips at 17″ – Greek Key Design
  • 4 – 1/4″ x 1″ lattice strips at 8″ – Greek Key Design
  • 8 – 1/4″ x 1″ lattice strips at 8-7/16″ – Greek Key Design
  • 8 – 1/4″ x 1″ lattice strips at 7-1/2″ – Greek Key Design
  • 16 – 1/4″ x 1″ lattice strips at 5″ – Greek Key Design
  • 16 – 1/4″ x 1″ lattice strips at 2″ – Greek Key Design

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. With the pocket holes jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each side edge of the back piece. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Sides & Back

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the bottom. Drill pocket holes in each side edge as well as the back edge of the piece. Secure the bottom piece to the sides and back. The bottom will be 3/4″ shorter than the sides to allow for the drawer front.

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Bottom

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the base feet. There will be four right pieces and four left pieces, two of each length. Cut an arc in each piece using a jigsaw or a bandsaw maintaining the dimensions as shown in the drawing. Drill a pocket hole in the top edge of each foot. Assemble the feet in an L shape as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Feet 1 DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Feet 2

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the base frame and supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece as well as in one long edge of each piece (except for ONE of the longer framing pieces which will be the front of the base) to secure the base to the bottom of the cabinet (the pocket holes are NOT shown in the drawings). Assemble the base frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the base frame to the cabinet bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Base 1

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Base 2

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. The stretchers will be secured to the sides of the cabinet and located 1″ back from the front edge of the sides to allow for the drawer fronts.

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Front Stretchers

Step Six

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the sides, back, and upper stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the top.

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Top

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Drawer FB

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. The Greek Key design will be cut and assembled from pieces of the lattice strips. It may be easier to mark the position of the strips on the drawer front pieces prior to securing the design. Follow each drawing and position the pieces as shown. Secure the pieces using glue (1/2″ brad nails may be used, if desired).

Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Drawer Key 3

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Drawer Key 2

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Drawer Key 1

DIY Plans to Build a Greek Key Chest_Drawer Fronts

Finish as desired.

The chest would be a fabulous addition to any room – as a media chest, as toy storage in a kid’s room, or even in a bathroom to store towels and toiletries. The DIY plans to build a Greek Key Chest are easy to follow but if you have any questions, leave a comment below!




Build an Awesome Container for Storing Recyclables!

How to Build a Recycle Bin

I like to recycle, however, a 5 gallon bucket with a lid just did not fit in with my kitchen. I wanted something a bit more cool and at least with a little more style! I came up with this idea and used 1/2″ plywood – in fact, the plywood was a bonus! I special-ordered a couple of sheets of walnut plywood for another project and they were sheathed in two pieces of this plywood! How awesome!! So with these plans, you can build a recycle bin to suit your needs and fit your decor without it sticking out like a sore thumb!

how to build a recycle bin

how to build a recycle bin

Materials:

  • 1/2″ plywood
  • Wood glue
  • Brad nailer and 3/4″ brad nails
  • Saw of your choice
  • Square & Pencil
  • One set of hinges
  • One cabinet pull
  • Paint or Stain
  • Stencils and acrylic craft paint

Cut List

  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 7-5/8″ x 11-3/4″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 7-5/8″ x 24″ – Sides
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 12-3/4″ x 24″ – Front & Back
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 2-1/2″ x 11-3/4″ – Inside Hinge Support
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 8-5/8″ x 12-3/4″ – Top
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 2-1/2″ x 12-3/4″ – Top Hinge Support

 

1. Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1″ brad nails.

how to build a recycle bin_Sides & Bottom

2. Cut the pieces for the front and back. Attach to the sides and bottom with glue and 1″ brad nails.

how to build a recycle bin_Front & Back

3. Since the plywood is thin, the screws for the hinges would go right through the wood so add a 2-1/2″ x 11-3/4″ piece to the inside back. Use glue and clamp until dry.

how to build a recycle bin_Hinge Piece Inner

4. Cut the piece for the top and the top hinge support. Position the top hinge support then secure using glue and 3/4″ brad nails. Install the hinges on the cabinet, then on the lid. Add a cabinet pull if desired.

how to build a recycle bin_Hinge Piece Top

Finish as desired and stencil something cool on it! I stenciled the word RECYCLE on the front. It is so easy to build a recycle bin – the plans are perfect for all skill levels but if you get stuck, contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com and I would be happy to walk you through it!

#furnitureplans #build #woodworkingplans #diy

 




A Nifty Counter Height Table with Storage

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table

This is one of those tables that can serve so many purposes – as extra seating for holiday entertaining or a dinner party, as a craft table, or even as a kitchen island! The DIY plans to build a Storage Counter Height Table feature a square top, 37-1/2″ height, and built-in storage on the side! This is a great project for beginners and can be completed in a weekend.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 5 – 1×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 4×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 4×4 at 36-3/4″ – Legs
  • 3 – 1×4 at 29″ – Aprons
  • 2 – 1×4 at 36-3/4″ – Storage Sides/Legs
  • 5 – 1×4 at 34-1/2″ – Storage Shelves
  • 1 – 1×4 at 34-1/2″ – Top Support
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 36-1/4″ x 36-1/2″ – Storage Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 36″ x 36″ – Top

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the 4×4 legs and the aprons. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of each apron piece. Secure one of the apron pieces to the 4×4 legs as shown using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Side

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the storage sides/legs. Secure the remaining aprons to the storage sides/legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, treating each piece as a left and a right. Secure the apron/side assemblies to the 4×4 legs using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_FB Legs

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the storage shelves and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the shelves to the storage sides/legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Storage Shelves

Step Four

Cut the piece for the top support and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the support to the aprons as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Top Support

Step Five

Cut the piece for the storage back. position the piece on the back of the storage shelves between the aprons. Secure the piece using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the back into each of the shelves.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Storage Back

Step Six

Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges prior to securing the top on the frame. The top will be flush with the frame on all sides. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Top

Finish as desired.

I imagine this table in a really dark finish but of course, that is my preference with everything, ha ha! There are so many neat ways to finish it including wallpaper on the storage back, the glue-resist technique on the top, or a high-gloss painted finish! Leave a comment below if there are any questions about the DIY plans to build a Storage Counter Height Table!




Build a Crate Bench

Build a Fantastic Seat for the Porch or Patio with the Crate Bench Plans

This is a great project for those who are new to woodworking or who just want a quick weekend project. The Crate Bench Plans have a sturdy inner frame with slats on the outside to mimic a crate. The bench can also accommodate a 17″ x 44″ cushion on the seat. Check out my basic box cushion how-to for a quick tutorial on making the cushion!

 crate bench plans_Copy

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 5 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 15-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 12-1/2″ – Base Frame & Seat Supports
  • 2 – 2×2 at 39-1/2″ – Base Frame
  • 6 – 1×3 at 15-1/2″ – Side Slats
  • 6 – 1×3 at 44″ – Front & Back Slats
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 44″ – Seat

 crate bench plans

Notes:

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the base frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the frame pieces will be flush with the top of each leg.

 crate bench plans_Seat Frame

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front and back frame pieces as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

 crate bench plans_Seat Supports

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Position them as shown in the drawing securing the slats using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

 crate bench plans_Side Slats

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the front and back slats. Overlap the edges of the side slats with the front and back slats lining them up. Secure using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

 crate bench plans_FB Slats

Step Five

Cut the piece for the seat. Secure to the frame and supports using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

 crate bench plans_Seat

Finish as desired.

The Crate Bench plans would be awesome constructed out of rustic pallet boards, also. The plywood on the seat can be replaced with slats as an alternative. Have questions? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

Disclaimer:

This post contains links to a site of which I am an affiliate. What that means is if the link is clicked and a purchase is made, I will get a commission of that sale. Rest assured I would only direct my readers to sites I shop at myself!