A Nifty Counter Height Table with Storage

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table

This is one of those tables that can serve so many purposes – as extra seating for holiday entertaining or a dinner party, as a craft table, or even as a kitchen island! The DIY plans to build a Storage Counter Height Table feature a square top, 37-1/2″ height, and built-in storage on the side! This is a great project for beginners and can be completed in a weekend.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 5 – 1×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 4×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 4×4 at 36-3/4″ – Legs
  • 3 – 1×4 at 29″ – Aprons
  • 2 – 1×4 at 36-3/4″ – Storage Sides/Legs
  • 5 – 1×4 at 34-1/2″ – Storage Shelves
  • 1 – 1×4 at 34-1/2″ – Top Support
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 36-1/4″ x 36-1/2″ – Storage Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 36″ x 36″ – Top

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the 4×4 legs and the aprons. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of each apron piece. Secure one of the apron pieces to the 4×4 legs as shown using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Side

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the storage sides/legs. Secure the remaining aprons to the storage sides/legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, treating each piece as a left and a right. Secure the apron/side assemblies to the 4×4 legs using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_FB Legs

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the storage shelves and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the shelves to the storage sides/legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Storage Shelves

Step Four

Cut the piece for the top support and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the support to the aprons as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Top Support

Step Five

Cut the piece for the storage back. position the piece on the back of the storage shelves between the aprons. Secure the piece using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the back into each of the shelves.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Storage Back

Step Six

Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges prior to securing the top on the frame. The top will be flush with the frame on all sides. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Counter Height Table_Top

Finish as desired.

I imagine this table in a really dark finish but of course, that is my preference with everything, ha ha! There are so many neat ways to finish it including wallpaper on the storage back, the glue-resist technique on the top, or a high-gloss painted finish! Leave a comment below if there are any questions about the DIY plans to build a Storage Counter Height Table!




Build a Crate Bench

Build a Fantastic Seat for the Porch or Patio with the Crate Bench Plans

This is a great project for those who are new to woodworking or who just want a quick weekend project. The Crate Bench Plans have a sturdy inner frame with slats on the outside to mimic a crate. The bench can also accommodate a 17″ x 44″ cushion on the seat. Check out my basic box cushion how-to for a quick tutorial on making the cushion!

 crate bench plans_Copy

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 5 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 15-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 12-1/2″ – Base Frame & Seat Supports
  • 2 – 2×2 at 39-1/2″ – Base Frame
  • 6 – 1×3 at 15-1/2″ – Side Slats
  • 6 – 1×3 at 44″ – Front & Back Slats
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 44″ – Seat

 crate bench plans

Notes:

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the base frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the frame pieces will be flush with the top of each leg.

 crate bench plans_Seat Frame

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front and back frame pieces as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

 crate bench plans_Seat Supports

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Position them as shown in the drawing securing the slats using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

 crate bench plans_Side Slats

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the front and back slats. Overlap the edges of the side slats with the front and back slats lining them up. Secure using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

 crate bench plans_FB Slats

Step Five

Cut the piece for the seat. Secure to the frame and supports using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

 crate bench plans_Seat

Finish as desired.

The Crate Bench plans would be awesome constructed out of rustic pallet boards, also. The plywood on the seat can be replaced with slats as an alternative. Have questions? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

Disclaimer:

This post contains links to a site of which I am an affiliate. What that means is if the link is clicked and a purchase is made, I will get a commission of that sale. Rest assured I would only direct my readers to sites I shop at myself!




A Challenging Bench to Build

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench

Like a challenge? Me, too! The DIY plans to build a Curved Seat Bench really shouldn’t be too difficult but it will put your skills to the test! The bench features a curved seat and back, and will fit well around a round table. The seat can be made using plywood or 1x material in planks. In all honesty, this bench can probably be built in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Copy

I have included a printable template for the back pieces. This is new for me, so please bear with me while I get all of the kinks worked out! The printed sheets have registration marks on them so that the pages can be matched up and taped together with ease. The back pieces can be cut from 1x for 3/4″ wide pieces or 2x stock for 1-1/2″ wide pieces (whichever you feel comfortable with as the back). If using a bandsaw, the pieces can be stacked so that multiples are cut out at once, and 4 pieces should fit on one 1×8 or 2×8 at 3′ long.

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Copy 2

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 2″ screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails (or 1-1/2″ screws to secure the seat)
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×8 at 8′  or 1 – 2×8 at 6′ (for the back pieces)
  • 4 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood or 5 – 1×6 at 6′ (for the seat)

Cut List:

  • 3 – 2×4 at 17-1/4″ – Front Legs
  • 3 – 2×4 at 13″ – Side Stretchers
  • 3 – 2×4 at 32″ – Back Legs
  • 4 – 2×4 at 23-5/8″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 3 – 1×8 at 36″ – Back OR
  • 2 – 2×8 at 36″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 22″ x 51″ – Seat OR
  • 5 – 1×6 at 51″ – Seat

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the front legs, the back legs, and the side stretchers. Cut an angle in each side of each leg as shown using a jigsaw, a bandsaw, or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Secure the stretchers to the front and back legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. On at least two of the assemblies, the pocket holes will face opposite of the remaining assembly so that no pocket holes will be visible on either side.

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Leg Assemblies

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers. A 14° angle will be cut on one side (where the stretchers will be attached to the center leg) and a 15° angle will be cut on the other side (where the stretchers will attach to the outer legs). Stand the leg assemblies on a flat surface, then position the stretchers as they will be secured to the legs. Mark the position of the pocket holes, staggering them so they won’t interfere with the adjoining piece, especially at the center leg. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

The back stretchers will be flush with the ends of the side stretchers. The front stretchers will be positioned 1-1/2″ back from the front edge of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Center Leg Position

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Stretchers 1

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Stretchers 2

Step Three

Print the template for the back pieces. Line up the registration marks and tape the sheets together. It may be easier to transfer the template to a scrap piece of 1/4″ plywood, using the plywood piece as the template. There should be enough room to trace four back pieces on a 1×8 or 2×8 piece of material.

Cut out the back pieces using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. If using a bandsaw, the pieces can be stacked (secured by screws) then cut. The holes made by the screws can later be filled.

Pre-drill the holes in the ends of the back pieces to prevent splitting before securing the pieces to the back legs. Secure the back pieces to the legs using glue and 2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Back 1

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Back 2

Step Four

Cut the piece for the seat. If using planks for the seat, secure the planks to each other by drilling a series of pocket holes along one long edge of each piece and securing with 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Draw the curves on the seat material according to the drawing, maintaining the 2″ at the sides (for the legs and 1/2″ overhang).

Secure the seat to the frame using glue and 1-1/2″ screws or 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Seat 1

DIY Plans to Build a Curved Seat Bench_Seat 2

Finish as desired.

If anyone tackles this bench before I get a chance to do so, please let me know how the templates work out. I am planning on including templates for future plans. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Curved Seat Bench? Leave a comment below!




A Fabulous Ladder for Decoration and Display

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder

Let me start off by saying that this ladder is for decorative purposes only – it is not to stand on! The DIY plans to build a Decorative Ladder feature round rungs made from dowel rods, and 2x lumber legs. The ladder also has an angle cut into the bottom of each leg to allow it to lean back against a wall. This is a super-quick and easy project that can be completed in a couple of hours!

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Featured

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • 1″ Forstner bit
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 4 – 1″ round dowels at 4′
  • 2 – 2×3 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×3 at 7′ – Legs
  • 6 – 1″ round dowels at 22″- Rungs

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs to length and cut a 5° angle in one end of each piece. Treating each leg as a left and a right (so the angles face the same way), mark the position for the holes to hold the dowels. The holes are spaced 12″ apart on center along the centerline of the legs. Drill a 1/2″ deep hole at each mark with the 1″ Forstner bit.

To make it easier to pre-drill the holes for the screws, drill a hole through the center of each hole for the dowels through to the outside of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Sides

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Holes

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Countersunk Holes

Step Two

Cut the pieces of dowel to length. Working with one dowel at a time, apply glue to one of the larger holes and insert a dowel. From the outside through the smaller holes drilled through the larger holes, drill into the end of the dowel to insert a screw, then drive the screws through the leg into the dowel. Repeat for each dowel.

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Rungs

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Rungs Photo

Step Three

Lay the leg with the dowels already secured to it on a flat surface. Apply glue to the holes of the remaining leg, then lay the leg on top of the open end of the dowels and fit each dowel into the holes. Tap into place with a rubber mallet. Check the ladder for square, then drive the screws through the holes in the remaining leg into the ends of the dowels.

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Finished

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Finished 2

Finish as desired.

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Finished 3

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Finished 4

The ladder is a great way to store blankets in a living room, or a bedroom. It would also look great in a bathroom with towels draped over the rungs! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Decorative Ladder? Leave a comment below!




Organize and Display Spice Jars with a Mini Spice Rack

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack

Since I’ve really been into clean eating and cooking, I needed a way to keep my spices neatly organized. I found some tiny Mason jars at Target that were perfect for spices and I needed a a way to store them. I created the DIY furniture plans to build a Mini Spice Rack specifically for the tiny jars and the plan is also customizable for other sized jars by just changing the width, height and depth. I used decorative punched aluminum on the back and metal ribbon (purchased from Hobby Lobby) on the front to act as retainers. This is an inexpensive build that costs very little and can be completed in a couple of hours.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Featured

 

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 5/8″ staples
  • Decorative punched aluminum
  • Spray paint
  • Metal ribbon and upholstery tacks (1/4″ x 1″ strips of wood can also be used)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools needed:

  • Miter saw or jigsaw
  • Pneumatic brad nailer/stapler with compressor
  • Sander
  • Metal Snips

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1/2″ x 2-1/2″ x 2′ craft boards
  • 3 – 1/2″ x 1″ x 1″ craft boards (wood rulers would be a great choice!)

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1/2″ x 2-1/2″ craft boards at 10-1/2″ – Top, Bottom & Shelves
  • 2 – 1/2″ x 2-1/2″ craft boards at 12-1/2″ – Sides
  • 3 – 1/4″ x 1″ craft boards at 11-1/2″ – Front Retainers*

(* = if not using metal ribbon)

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut all of the pieces to length. Thoroughly sand each board.

Step Two

Assemble the spice rack using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The top, bottom and shelves are spaced 3-1/2″ apart.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Rack

Step Three

Cut the decorative aluminum to fit the back. I raided my scraps and did not have a piece that was big enough so I used two pieces with the join behind one of the shelves. Secure the aluminum to the back using 5/8″ staples (I used a pneumatic stapler). 1/4″ plywood can also be used.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Back

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Punched Aluminum

Step Four

Paint the spice rack and the retainers as desired. I used white spray paint and did not paint the retainer pieces.

Step Five

Secure the retainer pieces to the front of the shelves and bottom. If using 1/4″ wood, use glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails and if using metal ribbon, use upholstery tacks.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Retainers

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Metal Ribbon Retainers

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Retainer Close Up

The little jars I used measure 2″ wide by 2-1/2″ tall, and they have a chalkboard label on the top.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Jars

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Completed

If resizing the plan to fit different jars or bottles, adjust the length of the shelves if necessary, and lengthen the sides to accommodate the height. For example, if the jars being used are 4″ tall, the sides will be lengthened by 4-1/2″ and the shelves will be spaced at 5″. If there are any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Mini Spice Rack, leave a comment below!




New Plans for a Beautiful Dining Chair Bench

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench

This post contains affiliate links to the materials used to build this project. What that means is that if the link is clicked and a purchase is made, I will receive a small commission. Thank you for supporting DbSC!

The very first dining chair bench I designed plans for and built was as a gift for my mom. She still loves it (and still won’t let anyone sit on it!) and I am super-proud of it! The DIY furniture plans to build a Long Chair Bench are basically the same as the original chair bench but in this case, all of the chairs match. This is the perfect plan for those new to furniture building – it is really super-easy!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Copy

Materials:

Tools Needed:

Lumber:

  • 4 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×6 at 4′
  • 3 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 6 – 2×4 at 42-3/4″ – Back Legs
  • 3 – 1×6 at 15″ – Upper Back
  • 12 – 1×3 at 15″ – Back Pieces and Stretchers
  • 6 – 2×2 at 17-1/4″ – Front Legs
  • 6 – 1×3 at 15″ – Side Stretchers
  • 3 – 1×3 at 15″ –  Seat Supports
  • 4 – 1×3 at 3″ – Spacers
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 60″ – Seat

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes about the project:

Edge banding, if used, will be applied to the exposed edges of the seat prior to securing it to the seat frames.

When cutting multiple legs for chairs, I draw the dimensions for the legs on one board, then stack the boards securing them together. I used a bandsaw to cut along the lines drawn on the board cutting the legs at the same time.

Step One

Draw the lines for the back legs on the 2×4 as shown in the drawing. Use a jigsaw or bandsaw to cut the legs out. Stack the legs together holding the stack with a clamp, then thoroughly sand.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the back and the stretchers. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the pieces to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front faces of the back pieces will be flush with the front faces of the legs, while the back face of the stretcher will be flush with the front face of the legs. (There should be three stretchers left over for the front.)

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Back Rest & Stretcher

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front legs. Secure the remaining stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the stretchers will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Front Legs & Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the front and back legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the stretchers will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Side Stretchers

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the front and back stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Seat Support

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the spacers and drill pocket holes in one end only of each piece. One side of the spacers will be secured to the legs using pocket hole screws, and the other side will be secured to the legs using the mending plates and screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Spacers

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the seat. If using edge banding, apply it to all four edges prior to cutting the notches. Mark the position for the notches and cut them out with a jigsaw.

Position the seat on the seat frames securing in place using glue and 2″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Seat 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Long Chair Bench - Seat 2

Easy to build chair frames are aligned with a long seat on top for a fabulous Long Chair Bench. This plan is suitable for all skill levels!

Finish the bench as desired.

The seat for this bench can also be cut from planks, and can be stenciled, stained or painted. Wood appliques can also be added to the upper back pieces for a decorative look. Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Long Chair Bench? Leave a comment below!




Build a Daisy Console Table

The Daisy Console Table Plans – A Simple to Build Table with Lots of Style

This table is great for all skill levels – plain and simple, and can be finished in a variety of ways! The Daisy console table plans are drawn without a shelf at the bottom but one can easily be added by cutting a piece of plywood and notching the corners to fit. The table is slim enough to fit in virtually any space, plus the top trim can be routed with a decorative edge for an extra fancy touch!
Daisy Console Table Plans-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×6 at 6′
  • 1 sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 35-1/4″ – Legs
  • 2 – 1×6 at 8″ – Upper Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8″ – Lower Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×6 at 50″ – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 50″ – Lower Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 14″ – Top Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 59″ – Top Trim
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14″ x 56″ – Top

Daisy Console Table PlansClick on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side stretchers. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers, as well as one long edge of each 1×6 stretcher to attach the top. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The stretchers will be located 1/4″ back from the outside face of the legs. A close quarter drill or right angle drill attachment may be needed to get into the tight space. (I own both of these tools and they certainly come in handy!)
Daisy Console Table Plans-Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the longer stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers, as well as one long edge of each 1×6 stretcher to attach the top. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The stretchers will be located 1/4″ back from the outside face of the legs.
Daisy Console Table Plans-Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter trim pieces and all four edges of the top panel. Secure the sides of the trim first, using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then secure the longer pieces.

The top will overhang the frame by 3″ on all sides. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Daisy Console Table Plans-Top 1Daisy Console Table Plans-Top 2Finish as desired!

The table is narrow enough that baskets can actually balance on the lower stretchers, if desired! Have any questions about the Daisy console table plans? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc.com!

This post contains links to a site of which I am an affiliate. What that means is that if the link is clicked and a purchase is made, I will receive a commission. I really do own those two tools and use them all the time!




Fabulously Easy to Build Bookcases

A Collection of DIY Plans to Build Bookcases

I have created several different plans for bookcases… I have put together a fabulous collection of DIY plans to build bookcases and I am sure there is something for each taste and style! Each of the plans are easy to build, inexpensive, and perfect for any skill level!

A Collection of DIY Plans to Build Bookcases_Bookcases Graphic

One of my most favorite bookcases ever was built using an old wood door as the sides. Inspired by an example at My Repurposed Life, I built this bookcase and painted it a very vibrant pink. I sold it as soon as I posted a photo of it on Facebook, and it lives with a good friend of mine. Old doors can be found rather inexpensively at flea markets, thrift stores, or a Habitat for Humanity ReStore!

A Collection of DIY Plans to Build Bookcases_Old Door Bookcase

This is another favorite bookcase… I love the curved stretcher at the top and the drawers at the bottom. The Bombay Bookcase can be built as a pair or even as a triple to fill a wall space and add tons of storage!

A Collection of DIY Plans to Build Bookcases_Bombay Bookcase

Here is another interesting bookcase that can also double as a room divider… The Cube Bookcase features cubes constructed of plywood that can be painted one color with frames separating each cube that can be painted or stained a different color for a really interesting effect!

A Collection of DIY Plans to Build Bookcases_Cube Bookcase

The Stately Bookcase is a huge piece of furniture with doors on the bottom creating a very beautiful piece of storage! A fabulous collection of dinnerware could also be displayed in this beauty, and the bookcase can be fitted to an area to resemble a built-in.

A Collection of DIY Plans to Build Bookcases_Stately Bookcase

The Reclaimed Bookcase Divider is another piece that can be used to separate two spaces yet keep books or “collections” completely organized!  This bookcase would be a great piece to store dinnerware in a small space or as storage in a kiddo’s room…

A Collection of DIY Plans to Build Bookcases_Reclaimed Bookcase

Want more options other than what I’ve included in this collection of DIY plans to build bookcases? Enter the word “bookcase” in the search bar to the right of the screen… There are several more plans available!




A Beautiful Lamp with a Walnut Base

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood

I love making and refurbishing lamps.  I love walnut wood, too! I had a few scraps of PureBond walnut plywood left over from one of the projects I create for them and decided that I really, really needed a lamp with a walnut base. Constructing a lamp base from the DIY plans to build a lamp base with plywood are super-easy. The plywood is joined together using 45° bevels in the edges of the pieces. It sounds hard but really isn’t!

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Finished

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
  • 1 – 1/4″ lamp pipe at 15-1/2″
  • 1 – replacement lamp cord with plug
  • 3 – 1/4″ lamp nuts
  • 1 – washer to fit the pipe
  • 1 – candelabra socket cover at 4″
  • 2 – check rings to fit on the ends of the socket cover
  • Lamp socket
  • Lamp shade of your choice

Lumber:

  • 1 – 2’x 2′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1/2″ plywood at 5″ x 12″ – Base Sides
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 5″ square – Base Top
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 4″ square – Base Bottom

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

To Build the Lamp Base:

Cut all of the plywood pieces to size. I used the table saw with the blade set at 45° to cut the bevels in each of the long ends of the base sides, as well as the top edge of each piece. A router with a 45° chamfer bit can also be used.

Cut 45° bevels in all four edges of the top. I used a compound miter saw to do this but a router with a 45° chamfer bit can also be used.

 Sorry for the “shady” photos… It is that time of year where my work table in partially shaded!

Lay the side pieces on a flat surface side by side with the bevels facing down. Place at least two or three rows of masking tape across the pieces with the ends of the tape extending past each side piece.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Apply Tape

Carefully flip the pieces over and apply glue to each bevel. Fold the pieces on each other creating a box and secure the tape. Let the piece dry.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Apply Glue

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Glued

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Taped Assembly

Mark the center of the top and bottom pieces, and drill a hole in each piece large enough for the lamp pipe to fit through. (This is not shown in the photos.)

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Top & Bottom

Fit the beveled top into the top of the base, trimming as necessary. Spread glue on the bevels, then position the top, securing it in place with masking tape. Let the piece dry.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Top

Place the bottom piece inside the bottom positioning it approximately 1″ up from the bottom. Secure the piece in place with 1-1/4″ brad nails through the sides. I did not photograph this step but I’m sure you get the idea!

Drill a hole in the lower back side of the base below the bottom. This is so the cord will not interfere with the bottom of the lamp.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Cord Hole

Thoroughly sand the base and fill any holes or gaps with wood filler. Stain and seal the base as desired.

Decorate the base with a stencil and paint, if you’d like… I cut a stencil out of vinyl then painted it with metallic white paint. A woodburning tool could be used to create a design (before staining) or even the glue-resist technique can be used.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Stencil

To Install and Wire the Lamp:

Thread the washer and one of the nuts onto the lamp pipe, then thread the pipe through the hole in the bottom and through the hole in the top. Place a check ring (face down) over the pipe, then thread a second nut on the pipe. The check rings will “frame” the socket cover helping to keep it in place.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Pipe Bottom

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Check Ring

Cover the socket cover with scrapbooking paper or spray paint the piece. This is where I like to have fun and add a pop of color! Thread the cover on the pipe, then add the second check ring (face down) and the remaining nut.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Socket Cover

Thread the wiring through the hole in the lower edge of the base, then through the pipe and pull it out of the top. Thread the socket cap onto the pipe. Tie an underwriter’s knot (which helps keep the cord from being yanked out of the socket) and attach the wiring to the socket terminals. Wrap the wiring in the same direction as the screw will tighten. Install the socket’s cover.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Socket Wiring

Install the lamp shade of your choice! Gorgeous!

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Finished

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Night Left

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Night Right

What do you think? The lamp can be constructed out of any species of wood like oak, cherry, even cedar! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a lamp base with plywood? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




An Easy to Build Dresser with Optional Trim

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Dresser with Optional Trim

This dresser plan is easy and there are so many ways to make it unique. The DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Dresser with Optional Trim feature two smaller drawers above three longer drawers, tapered legs and the option to add decorative trim to the drawer fronts and side panels.

Other options for making this dresser truly unique include adding wallpaper to the drawer fronts and side panels, stenciling or maybe even a fabulous metallic finish!

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1″ brad nails
  • 1-1/2″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 5 sets of 15″ Drawer slides*
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

(*Regular bottom mount drawer slides can be cut to fit, click here)

Tools Needed:

  • Miter saw or Circular saw
  • Table saw
  • Iron for edge banding
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Right angle drill attachment (for tight spaces)
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
  • Sander
  • Drawer slide jig (optional)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 7 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 7 – 2×2 at 8′ (or 4 – 2×4 at 8′ ripped in half)
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 6 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ trim at 8′, optional (or 507 linear feet)

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 32-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 14-1/2″ – Side Panel Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 25-1/4″ – Side Panels
  • 10 – 2×2 at 39″ – Stretchers
  • 4 – 2×2 at 14-1/2″ – Stretcher Supports
  • 2 – 1×2 at 16-3/4″ – Small Drawer Slide Supports
  • 1 – 2×2 at 4″ – Small Drawer Slide Support Spacer
  • 1 – 1×6 at 5″ – Front Spacer
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 27-1/2″ x 40-1/2″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 43″ – Top
  • 6 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 36-1/2″ – Larger Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 10 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 15-1/4″ – ALL Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 14-1/4″ – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – 1/4″ plywood at 14-3/4″ x 37″ – Larger Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1/4″ plywood at 14-1/4″ x 14-3/4″ – Smaller Drawer Box Bottom
  • 1 – 1×6 at 38-3/4″ – Lower Drawer Front (bottom drawer)
  • 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-3/4″ wide) at 38-3/4″ – Lower Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 43/4″ wide) at 16-1/2″ – Smaller Drawer Fronts

Optional Trim:

  • 4 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ trim at 14-1/2″ – Side Panel Trim
  • 4 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ trim at 25-1/2″ – Side Panel Trim
  • 4 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ trim at 4-3/4″ – Larger Drawer Trim
  • 2 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ trim at 5-1/2″ – Larger Drawer Trim
  • 6 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ trim at 38-3/4″ – Larger Drawer Trim
  • 4 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ trim at 4-3/4″ – Smaller Drawer Trim
  • 4 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ trim at 16-1/2″ – Smaller Drawer Trim

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut a taper in the lower edge of each leg using a tapering jig on the table saw.

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the side panels and the side panel framing. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in all four edges of the side panels.

Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces.

Secure the framing pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back faces of the pieces will be flush with each other.

Secure the side panel/framing assembly to the legs using the appropriate screw for the material – 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws for 3/4″ material and 2-1/2″ screws for 1-1/2″ material.

Step Three

Cut the pieces for all of the lower stretchers and the stretcher supports, Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the supports to the center of the stretchers as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Set the remaining four stretchers and one stretcher support aside.

Step Four

Secure two of the remaining stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Step Five

Apply glue to the lower edge of the smaller drawer spacer and clamp in place until dry.

Position the 2×2 spacer on the back stretcher. Apply glue to the bottom edge and clamp in place until dry.

Secure the 1×2 drawer slide spacers to the front 1×6 spacer using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails. Secure the back end of the 1×2 slide spacers to the 2×2 spacer using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

Step Six

Secure the remaining stretcher support to the last two stretchers using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Secure the assembly to the top of the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the back panel and secure in place using glue and 1″ brad nails.

 

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang the sides and front by 1/2″. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box front and back pieces on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step Ten

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight.

Step Eleven

Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box front to the drawer box sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs.

Step Twelve

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

For the Optional Trim:

Cut the pieces as indicated in the cut list, each with a 45° mitered end. Secure the trim pieces to the side panels and drawer fronts using glue and 1″ brad nails.

This dresser is a fabulous addition to any room and can be finished in any way imaginable! Have any questions about the DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Dresser with Optional Trim? Leave a comment below!