A Coffee Table Added to the Riley Collection

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table

Previously, I posted plans for the Riley End Table, a table featuring X detail at each side. The DIY plans to build a Riley Coffee Table feature the same X detail at the sides, with a shelf below. This is another excellent plan for beginners – the X detail pieces are very easy to construct plus the table can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×2 at 20″ – X Detail
  • 2 – 2×2 at 10″ – X Detail
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8-11/16″ – X Detail
  • 4 – 2×2 at 15″ – Side Framing
  • 4 – 2×2 at 19-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 33″ – Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 33″ – Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19″ x 37″ – Top

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, the framing, and the X detail. Mark the angles for the X detail by drawing a line across the board at the dimension given, then drawing another line from the corner of one end of the piece to the end of the line on the opposite side. Cut the angle using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill one pocket hole each end of the angled pieces as shown. Assemble the X detail using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing pieces to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Insert the X detail piece into the frame (trimming the angles, if necessary), then secure the X detail to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Sides 1

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Sides 2

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Sides 3

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the leg frame assemblies using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the piece for the shelf. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the shelf to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Shelf

Step Four

Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will be applied to the top before securing the top to the frame. The top will overhang each side by 1/2″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Riley Coffee Table_Top

Finish as desired.

The coffee table and matching end tables will make a perfect addition to any decor! They are easy to construct, and (if finished properly) would be excellent outdoors on a deck or patio! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Riley Coffee Table? Leave a comment below!




A Media Stand with a Movable Top and Storage

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Stand

Sometimes, the TV needs to be turned temporarily during that awesome movie or big game… This TV stand lets you do just that! The DIY furniture plans to build a Swivel Top Media Stand feature a top on Lazy Susan hardware, and two doors with a shelf inside. The doors also have glass or Plexiglas inserts which can easily be replaced with punched aluminum or fabric! This is a project that can be completed in a weekend.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Copy 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-3/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • Lazy Susan hardware
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 2 magnetic catches
  • 2 cabinet pulls
  • 4 – 2″ bun feet with mounting plates
  • Glass or Plexiglas cut to fit the openings in the doors
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools Needed:

  • Miter saw or circular saw
  • Table saw
  • Iron for edge banding
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Router with 1/4″ rabbeting bit
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
  • Sander

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 28-3/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 26-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 26-1/2″ x 28″ – Back
  • 2 – 1×2 at 26-1/2″ – Upper & Middle Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 26-1/2″ – Shelf
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 28″ – Tops
  • 4 – 1×2 at 27″ – Door Stiles
  • 6 – 1×2 at 10-1/16″ – Door Rails

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. With the pocket holes jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in the side edges of the bottom. Secure the bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The pocket holes will face down (on the underside of the bottom).

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Sides & Bottom

Step Two

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the back to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Back

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the upper and middle stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the middle stretcher to the sides as shown (positioning it 1-1/4″ back from the front edge of the sides) using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Set the upper stretcher aside.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Middle Stretcher

Step Four

Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in the side edges and one long edge for the back. Position the shelf on the middle stretcher then secure the sides and back with glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Add a few 1-3/4″ brad nails through the top of the shelf into the stretcher.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Shelf

Step Five

Secure the upper stretcher to the top edge of the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Upper Stretcher

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the tops. Secure one of the tops to the cabinet using glue and  1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the back, and 1-3/4″ brad nails through the top into the sides. A few 1-1/4″ brad nails can be used to secure the top to the upper stretcher.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Top

Step Seven

Install the mounting plates and the bun feet on the bottom of the cabinet.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Feet

Step Eight

Install the Lazy Susan hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions on the top of the cabinet and the remaining top piece. For an easy tutorial on installing the hardware, click here.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Top 2

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the doors. Drill pocket holes in the shorter pieces (the rails) positioning them close together so they won’t interfere with the rabbet that will be cut for the glass or Plexiglas. Assemble the doors as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Use the router with the 1/4″ rabbeting bit to cut a 1/4″ deep rabbet along the inside of each opening on the doors.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Doors 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Doors 2

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Swivel Top Media Cabinet-Doors 3

Finish as desired. Cut the glass or Plexiglas to fit the openings in the doors securing in place with a thin bead of adhesive. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls and the magnetic catches.

For a different look, the swivel top can be omitted. The glass or Plexiglass can also be replaced with 1/4″ plywood – painted with chalkboard paint, perhaps? Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Swivel Top Media Stand? Leave a comment below!




A Modern Dresser Combining Shelving with Drawers

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser

This dresser has everything – a sleek, modern look with plenty of storage. The DIY plans to build a Monroe Dresser features a shelving cabinet on each side and eight drawers in the middle. This is the ultimate piece for a space where too many furniture pieces would clutter an area – this one will keep everything nicely hidden!

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Copy 1

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 8 sets of 18″ Drawer slides
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 4 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 5 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 3 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 37-1/2″ – Legs
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 18″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 31-1/4″ – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1×2 at 69″ – Upper Stretchers
  • 4 – 2×2 at 33-3/4″ – Lower Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×2 at 5-1/2″ – Center Legs
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 31-1/4″ – 69″ – Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 69″ – Bottom
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 32″ – Cabinet Dividers
  • 6 – 1×2 at 16-7/8″ – Drawer Dividers
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 18-1/2″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 21″ x 72″ – Top
  • 8 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-3/8″ x 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 16 – 3/4″ plywood at 6″ x 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 16 – 3/4″ plywood at 6″ x 15-7/8″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 8 – 3/4″ plywood at 7″ x 16-5/8″ – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/4″ x 31″ – Doors

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side framing, and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 framing pieces. Secure the 2×2 pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 framing pieces. Secure the 1×2 pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face up and will be hidden by the top.

Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the panel to the legs and framing pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside face of the panels will be flush with the inside faces of the framing and legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers, lower stretchers, the center legs, and the back. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 lower stretchers. Secure the 2×2 pieces to the center legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Secure one of these assemblies to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 upper stretchers. Secure the one of the 1×2 pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face up and will be hidden by the top.

Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the back panel. Secure the panel to the legs and framing pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside face of the panels will be flush with the inside faces of the framing and legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Back

Step Three

Secure the remaining 2×2 and center leg assembly to the front legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the remaining 1×2 upper stretcher to the front legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Front Stretchers & Leg

Step Four

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the bottom piece to the lower stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the bottom panel will be flush with the top face of the lower stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Bottom

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the cabinet dividers, and cut the notch using a jigsaw. A portable jig may be used to drill the pocket hole in the notch. Secure the dividers in the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Cabinet Dividers 1

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Cabinet Dividers 2

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the drawer dividers to the cabinet dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Drawer Dividers

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side edges and the back edge of the shelves. Position the shelves in the cabinet as shown, securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The shelves will be located 1″ back from the front face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Shelves

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Top

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the dividers. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Drawer FB

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Drawer Fronts

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8″ gap around all sides of the doors in the openings. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the openings. Install the magnetic catches to keep the doors closed, the install the cabinet pulls.

DIY Plans to Build a Monroe Dresser_Doors

Finish as desired.

This cabinet does not have to be used as a dresser… The piece would make an excellent media stand, a fabulous console, or even a place to store linens and toiletries in a large bathroom! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Monroe Dresser? Leave a comment below!




Build a Fabulous Truss Dining Table

The Castleton Dining Table Plans Will Help You Create a Gorgeous Piece of Furniture with Style!

Don’t you just love the rustic look of truss-style furniture? The Castleton dining table plans fit the bill perfectly! With striking elegance, this table will have a huge impact on style but not on the budget!

castleton dining table plans_Copy

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 2×3 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×4 at 4′
  • 3 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 7 – 2×6 at 8′
  • 2 – 4×4 at 6′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 4×4 posts at 30″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×4 at 38-1/2″ – Upper Side Frame & Center Top Supports
  • 2 – 2×3 at 38-1/2″ – Lower Side Frame
  • 2 – 2×3 at 20-1/2″ – Center Side Frame
  • 4 – 2×3 at 26-3/16″ – Truss Supports
  • 4 – 2×4 at 12″ – Top Edge Boards
  • 2 – 2×4 at 45″ – Top Edge Boards
  • 3 – 2×3 at 45″ – Top Frame & Lower Stretcher
  • 7 – 2×6 at 76″ – Top Boards

castleton dining table plans

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and side frames. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. The 2×4 upper frame pieces will be positioned 1-1/2″ down from the top edge of the legs. Secure in place using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The 2×3 lower frame pieces will be located on end with the back face flush with the inside face of the legs. Secure in place using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Position the center frame pieces and shown then secure in place using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

 castleton dining table plans_Leg Assemblies

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the truss supports. Cut 33 degree miters in each end as shown, then drill pocket holes noting that there will be a right and a left piece for each leg assembly. Secure to the frame pieces using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

 castleton dining table plans_Truss 1

castleton dining table plans_Truss 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the top edge boards. Drill pocket holes in one edge only of each of the shorter pieces and both edges of the longer pieces. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The top face of these boards will be flush with the top end of the legs.

 castleton dining table plans_Top Edge Boards

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the top frame boards and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown making sure they are snug against the top edge boards using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The inside edge will be flush with the inside face of the legs. Secure the center portion of the boards to the top edge boards using countersunk 2-1/2″ screws.

 castleton dining table plans_Top Frame

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the center top supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the top frame boards using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

 castleton dining table plans_Center Top Supports

Step Six

Cut the piece for the lower stretcher. Secure to the lower frame piece using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

castleton dining table plans_Stretcher

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the top boards. Secure to the upper frame boards and center support boards using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws through the underside.

 castleton dining table plans_Top Boards

Finish as desired.

The Castleton dining table plans will create one hefty piece of furniture! Wouldn’t it look fabulous with a dark stain? At any rate, this piece is perfect for those new to woodworking and would also be fabulous constructed from umber suitable to outdoor use!

Need help with the plans? Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




A Simple to Build Dining Table Just in Time for the Holidays!

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table

Need a dining table for holiday entertaining? This is the perfect table… The DIY plans to build an Easy Rustic Dining Table feature a planked top with stretchers at the lower portion of the legs to give it a sturdy, rustic look. The plans call for straight off-the-shelf boards and can be enhanced with metal plates found in the deck section of any home improvement retailer. I promise, this plan is easy enough to have completed in a hurry!

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Copy

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 3″ screws (lag screws can also be used for a more industrial look)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 6 – 2×4 at 6′
  • 7 – 2×6 at 8′
  • 2 – 4×4 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 4×4 at 28-1/2″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×4 at 36″ – Lower Side Stretcher
  • 2 – 2×4 at 29″ – Shorter Aprons
  • 2 – 2×4 at 73″ – Long Aprons
  • 3 – 2×4 at 32″ – Center Supports
  • 1 – 2×4 at 80″ – Lower Stretcher
  • 7 – 2×6 at 84″ – Top

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

The notches in the legs and in the lower side stretcher are completely optional. If the notches are not used, the corresponding piece or pieces will rest on top and be secured with glue and 3″ screws.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. If cutting the notch in the lower edge, it will be cut using multiple cuts on a table saw or circular saw with the center portion chiseled away. This post shows how to cut notches easily with a table saw!

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the lower side stretcher. Cut the notch, if desired, and secure the piece to the legs using glue and countersunk 3″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Lower Side Stretchers 1

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Lower Side Stretchers 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the shorter aprons. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the shorter aprons to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Position the aprons 1/2″ back from the outside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Shorter Aprons

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the long aprons and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the aprons to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Position the aprons 1/2″ back from the outside face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Long Aprons

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the center supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the long apron using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Center Supports

Step Six

Cut the piece for the lower stretcher. Secure the stretcher to the lower side stretcher using glue and countersunk 3″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Lower Stretcher

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the top. The ends of the top planks will overhang by 2″ while the sides of the outermost planks will overhang by 1-1/4″. Secure the top planks in place using glue and countersunk 3″ screws through the top boards into the side aprons and the center supports.

DIY Plans to Build an Easy Rustic Dining Table-Top

Finish as desired.

This table can be completed in a couple of days, even with finishing! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build an Easy Rustic Dining Table? Leave a comment below!




A Fabulous Island for the Kitchen

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island

A kitchen island has become a staple in most kitchens. The island is a great place to prep food while visiting with guest, and also adds extra storage. The DIY plans to build a Carey Kitchen Island feature four drawers on each side (for a total of eight drawers!), deep shelves that are open on both sides, and a cubby in between the drawers and shelves for storing your best wine! The island is also raised off of the floor (bun feet would be fabulous!) and is also counter height, with decorative trim under the top. This is a super-easy build and will look fabulous in any style with any finish!

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-1/2″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 8 sets of 14″ drawer slides (the ball-bearing type that mounts on the sides of the drawer boxes)
  • 8 cabinet pulls
  • 4 – 4″ furniture feet with mounting plates
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 4 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood
  • 2 pieces of trim at 8′ each

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 30″ x 31-1/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 30″ x 43-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 30″ x 30-1/2″ – Wine Bottle Dividers
  • 5 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 30″ – Wine Bottle Shelves
  • 2 – 1×3 at 16-5/8″ – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×3 at 31-3/8″ – Upper Stretchers
  • 6 – 1×2 at 16-5/8″ – Drawer Stretchers
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 21-3/8″ x 30″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 33″ x 48″ – Top
  • Trim (under the top) cut to fit
  • 12 – 3/4″ plywood at 5″ x 12-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 12 – 3/4″ plywood at 5″ x 16-1/8″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 7″ x 12-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 7″ x 16-1/8″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 8 – 1/4″ plywood at 13″ x 15-1/8″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-3/4″ x 16-3/8″ – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-1/2″ x 16-3/8″ – Drawer Fronts

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each side edge of the bottom. Secure the bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Sides & Bottom

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the wine holder dividers and shelves. Drill pocket holes in the lower edges of the dividers. Mark the position on the dividers (the side opposite of the pocket holes) by drawing a pencil line the entire length of each divider. Secure the wine holder shelves to one of the dividers (with the pocket holes facing out) using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Attach the other divider to the opposite side of the shelves using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails aligning the shelves with the pencil lines.

Secure the wine holder assembly to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Wine Bottle Holder 1

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Wine Bottle Holder 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers, noting that the stretchers that will be secured over the drawers will be shorter than the stretchers over the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end then secure to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Upper Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the drawer stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the side and divider as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Stretchers

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each side edge. Secure the shelves to the side and divider as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Shelves

Step Six

Install the feet on the bottom of the island according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Feet

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the top. Position the top so that it hangs over all sides by 1-1/2″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Top

Step Eight

Cut the trim to fit under the top. There are no dimensions given because it will depend on the style of trim chosen. Decorative trim such as carved moulding or narrow crown moulding (also called “bed moulding”) can be used. Secure the moulding under the top using 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Trim

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Cut a 1/4″ deep by 1/4″ wide groove in the bottom of each drawer box side, as well as the front and back. Pocket holes will be drilled in each end of the sides on the opposite side of the groove. Secure the drawer sides to the drawer back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Drawer Box 1

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Drawer Box 2

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. The pieces may have to be trimmed to fit – this happens to me all the time! Slide the pieces in the grooves on the sides and back, then align the front. Secure the drawer front using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Drawer Box 3

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Drawer Box 4

Step Eleven

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating the slides 3/4″ back from the front edge of the sides and dividers.

Step Twelve

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Drawer Fronts 1

DIY Plans to Build a Carey Kitchen Island_Drawer Fronts 2

Finish as desired, and install the cabinet pulls.

The top of this fabulous kitchen island can be left as is or it can be made “fancier” with the addition of tile or laminate. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Carey Kitchen Island? Leave a comment below!




Build the Cosmo Dresser

Add These DIY Three-Drawer Dresser Plans to Your Organizational To-Do List!

The new year is sneaking up quickly and for me, it will mean making a better effort to get organized! These DIY three-drawer dresser plans will fit the bill and keep my stuff neatly put away! Featuring a narrow profile, tapered legs with a bevel detail on the outside edge, as well as an angle cut at the front edges of the top, this dresser will quickly become a classic piece of furniture!

diy three drawer dresser plans_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 3 sets of drawer slides (shortened to 11-1/2″)
  • 3 cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 4 – 1×8 at 6′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 full sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 31-3/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 1×2 at 11″ – Side Frames
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11″ x 26-1/4″ – Side Panels
  • 6 – 1×2 at 36″ – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 26-1/4″ x 36″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 40″ – Top
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 33-1/2″ – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1×8 at 10″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1×8 at 35″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 8″ x 35-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts

diy three drawer dresser plans

Notes:

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

 

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut a 45 degree bevel in one edge of each piece at 27-3/4″ long. Cut the taper in the lower edge of each piece using a jigsaw or a tapering jig on the table saw. The tapers will face to the inside of the dresser while the beveled edges will face to the outside edge. Keep in mind there will be two legs with the bevel on the right and two legs with the bevel on the left.

 diy three-drawer dresser plans_Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the side frame and panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Secure the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Orient the pocket holes in the frame pieces so they face away from the panels. Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

diy three-drawer dresser plans_Sides

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the back frame, front stretchers, and back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces and stretchers, as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the frame pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Orient the pocket holes in the frame pieces so they face away from the panels. Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the stretchers to the front legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 diy three-drawer dresser plans_Back

diy three-drawer dresser plans_Front Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece for the top. Cut a 45 degree bevel in each corner of the front edge making it 1/4″ deep. The front and sides will overhang by 1/2″. Secure using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

 diy three-drawer dresser plans_Top

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Use a hacksaw to shorten the drawer slides. For a quick tutorial, click here. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.  For an easy tutorial on installing drawer slides, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

 diy three-drawer dresser plans_Drawer BS

diy three-drawer dresser plans_Drawer FB

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

 diy three-drawer dresser plans_Drawer Fronts

Finish as desired!

These DIY three-drawer dresser plans are perfect for the beginner! Trust me, these plans are easy and you cannot go wrong but if you get stuck, let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc{dot} com!




Build the Haiku Cabinet

DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet with Fantastic Door Detail!

This roomy little cabinet has a very interesting twist… Not only does it feature three doors with a shelf inside each cubby, but it has very interestingly pieced doors with glass behind the frame! The DIY plans to build a Haiku cabinet only look complicated but are very easy and should be quite the inexpensive build!
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 9 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 25-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 1×2 at 17″ – Side Frames
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 19-3/4″ – Side Panels
  • 3 – 1×2 at 57″ – Back Frame & Lower Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-3/4″ x 57″ – Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 57″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 20-1/2″ – Dividers
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-1/2″ x 18-1/2″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 1×3 at 57″ – Upper Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20-1/2″ x 60-1/2″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×2 at 20-1/2″ – Top Trim Sides
  • 2 – 1×2 at 62″ – Top Trim Front & Back
  • 6 – 1×2 at 15-1/4″ – Door Frame
  • 6 – 1×2 at 17-3/4″ – Door Frame
  • 6 – 1×2 at 12-1/4″ – Door Panel
  • 6 – 1×2 at 11-3/4″ – Door Panel
  • 6 – 1×2 at 6-1/4″ – Door Panel
  • 6 – 1×2 at 5-3/4″ – Door Panel
  • 2 – 1/4″ glass or Plexiglas at 15-3/4″ x 16-1/4″ – Door Glass

DIY Plans to Build the Haiku CabinetClick on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly!

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces and all four edges of the panels. Secure the frame pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face away from the center panel – this way they won’t have to be filled!

Insert the panel in the frame opening and secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the legs and frame pieces.
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the back frame and panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces and all four edges of the panel. Secure the frame pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, again orienting the pocket holes to face away from the panel.
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Back

Step Three

Cut the piece for the lower front stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, orienting the piece so the pocket holes face down.
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Lower Front Stretcher

Step Four

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the lower stretcher and frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the bottom will be flush with the top face of the front stretcher.

DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-BottomStep Five

Cut the pieces for the dividers, cutting the notch in the top with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the back and bottom edges, then secure to the back and bottom of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Dividers 1DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Dividers 2

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the back edge. Secure to the sides and dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Shelves

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the upper front stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Add a few 1-1/4″ brad nails through the stretcher into the dividers.
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Front Stretcher

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang all sides of the cabinet by 1/4″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the top trim. Install the side trim pieces first, securing them with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails, then secure the front and back. The top edge of the trim pieces will be flush with the top face of the top.
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Top

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the door frames. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces then assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the center panels and drill one pocket hole in each end of each piece. The pieces will connect to each other as well as the outer frame with 1-1/2″ spacing. Secure one piece to the frame (it doesn’t matter which one you start with) using glue and a 1-1/4″ pocket hole screw, the build on that by securing the others as shown.
DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Doors FrameDIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Doors Panel 1DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Doors Panel 2

Step Ten

Cut the pieces of glass or Plexiglas. Secure to the back of each door frame (with at least 1/2″ overlap) using mirror clips or turn buttons.

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

DIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-Doors GlassDIY Plans to Build the Haiku Cabinet-DoorsFinish as desired!

This cabinet would make a great media stand or even a bar cabinet! The glass in the doors could be replaced with 1/4″ plywood panels or decorative punched aluminum. have any questions about the DIY plans to build the Haiku cabinet? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




A Simply Rustic Dresser with Built-In Handles on the Drawers

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Dresser

This dresser is truly the simplest… The DIY plans to build a Mayweather Dresser feature nine drawers (three narrow and six larger) with built-in handles consisting of a 1×2 sandwiched between two boards. The entire dresser sits on supports with a kickplate at the front. This is a project that can be completed over a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Dresser_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • Edge banding
  • 9 sets of 20″ drawer slides (eBay is a great source!)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 4 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 6 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 3 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 21-1/4″ x 27-3/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 21-1/4″ x 63-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 21-1/4″ x 27″ – Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 21-1/4″ x 65″ – Top
  • 4 – 1×2 at 22″ – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18″ – Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 27-11/16″ x 64-1/4″ – Back
  • 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 18-1/2″ – Bottom Supports
  • 1 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 63-1/2″ – Kickplate
  • 12 – 3/4″ plywood at 7″ x 19-1/2″ – Larger Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 12 – 3/4″ plywood at 7″ x 20″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1×4″ plywood at 19″ x 20-1/8″ – Larger Drawer Box Bottom
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 7″ x 15-1/2″ – Narrower Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 7″ x 20″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 3 – 1×4″ plywood at 16-1/8″ x 19″ – Narrower Drawer Box Bottom
  • 6 – 1×2 at 23″ – Larger Drawer Front Center
  • 12 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-5/16″ wide) at 23″ – Larger Drawer Front
  • 3 – 1×2 at 18-3/4″ – Narrower Drawer Front Center
  • 6 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-5/16″ wide) at 18-3/4″ – Narrower Drawer Front

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Dresser

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece as well as the top edges of the sides. Secure the bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Dresser_Sides & Bottom

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges. Secure the dividers to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Dresser_Dividers

Step Three

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the pocket holes in the top edges of the sides and dividers.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Dresser_Top

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces. Secure the shorter center pieces first, using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails, then secure the longer pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. This way, the screws won’t interfere with each other!

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Dresser_Front Stretchers

Step Five

Cut the piece for the bottom supports and drill pocket holes along one long edge. Secure the supports to the underside of the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the kickplate. Secure the kickplate to the front of the bottom supports using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Dresser_Bottom Supports

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Dresser_Kick Plate

Step Six

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Dresser_Back

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 3/8″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box sides on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Dresser_Drawer 1

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Dresser_Drawer 2

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight. 

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Dresser_Drawer 3

Step Nine

Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box sides to the drawer box front using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions, locating them flush with the front edge of the sides and dividers.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Dresser_Drawer 4

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Cut the 1×2 handles to length, then cut 45° bevels in the edges as shown in the drawing.

Drill pocket holes along one long edge of each drawer front piece, staggering the pocket holes so they won’t interfere with each other. Sandwich the 1×2 between the wider pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Dresser_Drawer Fronts 1

Step Eleven

The sides of the longer drawer fronts will be flush with the outside of the cabinet. The top edge of the uppermost drawer fronts will be flush with the top, and the bottom edge of the lower drawer fronts will be flush with the bottom. Secure each drawer front to the corresponding drawer box using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Open the drawers, then secure the fronts from the inside using 1-1/4″ screws.

The remaining drawer fronts will be spaced as indicated in the drawing.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Dresser_Drawer Fronts 2

Finish as desired.

The style of this fabulous dresser would look great in any room, and can also serve other uses – as a media stand, as storage in an entryway, or as storage in a dining room. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Mayweather Dresser? Leave a comment below!




How to Make a Framed Multi Organizer

How to Make a Framed Multi Organizer

My daughter has a small room and there is not enough space for her stuff! As we transition her room from “tween” to “teen”, I wanted to make things for her that reflect her style yet keep her room clutter-free – at least a little!

This framed multi organizer can be customized any number of ways. It can be for jewelry only with three mirrors and three organizer panels, or for “office” organizing with more magnetic and cork panels, the choice is up to you!

I chose to use one mirror, two punched aluminum panels (for earrings & necklaces), one corkboard, and two magnetic boards.

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0608 copy

Materials:

  • 2 – 1×2 lumber at 8′
  • Pocket hole jig & 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • Drill
  • Router with 3/8″ rabbeting bit
  • Sander & sandpaper in 80, 120, 220 grits
  • Finishing supplies
  • 1 – 12″ x 12″ mirror
  • 1 – 12″ x 12″ cork panel
  • 2 – 12″ x 12″ piece of hardware mesh or punched aluminum
  • 2 – 12″ x 12″ pieces of sheet metal
  • 4 – 12″ x 12″ pieces of cardboard
  • 3 – drawer knobs
  • Fabric of your choice
  • Spray adhesive
  • Framing tab gun or small nails

Start by cutting the pieces of lumber for the frame. Assemble the frame as shown (click on the picture to make it larger) using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Framed Multi Organizer Jewelry Display

Use the router to cut a rabbet in each inner frame, then thoroughly sand the frame starting with 80 grit, then 120 grit, and finally with 220 grit. Fill any holes or imperfections with filler, as desired.

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0596

Paint or stain. I chose a white paint for this project. Apply any sealer as desired. (The kitty, Busy, was inspecting my work.)

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0601

I primed the punched aluminum sheets with Rust-Oleum’s Rusty Metal Primer (the best, in my opinion, for priming metal!) then painted them with spray paint – Valspar in Frosty Berry. I also sprayed the sheet metal with spray adhesive and applied the fabric over it.

I started with the cork panel and added a piece of the cardboard behind it for stability. I secured the panels in place with the framing tab gun. A stapler would work, also, to secure the panels in place. The punched aluminum panels do not need cardboard behind them.

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0602

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0603

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0604

I added drawer knobs to one of the punched aluminum panels to hang necklaces. I was able to screw the post of the knob into one of the holes then attach a washer and nut behind it. I cut off the remaining part of the post with bolt cutters as close to the nut as I could get.

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0605

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0606

Attach to the wall with screws through the frame into the wall studs. Or attach soda can tabs to the back and attach the frame to the drywall using auger anchors. This frame is temporarily leaning against the wall in The Han’s room until I decide where I want to hang it.

Wow!

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0607

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0608

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0609

This multi-organizer can be customized for a boy, as well, and is fabulous for organizing homework and artwork! Have any questions about the famed multi organizer? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!