An End Table with a Superhero Twist

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan’s End Table

Ryan is a little guy I know who is crazy about superheroes, especially Spiderman. He really needed a place to put his stuff when visiting his dad so I built a new end table for him. The DIY furniture plans to build Ryan’s End Table feature a drawer and two shelves behind a door. This end table is a little taller than most because I designed it around the Spiderman art piece that is attached to the front of the door. I also used superhero cabinet pulls that I found at the hobby store. The entire end table was built using scrap wood as well as tongue and groove planks for the sides and door, and I was able to complete it in a weekend.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Easy to Build!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table with optional superhero accents

The superhero accents are totally optional! The tongue and groove planks give this cabinet a true country vibe…

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Door Open

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 2″ brad nails
  • 1 set of roller-type drawer slides (length doesn’t matter – they will need to be cut to fit)
  • 1 set of hinges
  • 2 cabinet pulls
  • Magnetic catch
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools needed:

  • Table saw
  • Miter saw or circular saw
  • Jigsaw
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor (or a battery powered version)

Lumber:

  • 5 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×4 at 6′
  • 3 – 1×6 pine tongue and groove planks at 8′
  • 1 – 1×12 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1×2 at 27″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 1×2 at 9-3/4″ – Upper Side Framing
  • 2 – 1×3 at 12-3/4″ – Lower Side Framing
  • 4 – 1×6 planks (ripped to 4-7/8″ wide – see Step One) at 27″ – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1×3 at 18-5/8″ – Lower Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 1×12 at 18-5/8″ – Bottom Shelf
  • 5 – 1×2 at 18-5/8″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 1×12 at 18-5/8″ – Shelf
  • 2 – 1×2 at 11-1/4″ – Top Side Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 21-3/8″ – Top Front & Back Trim
  • 1 – 1×12 at 18-3/8″ – Top
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 19-1/8″ x 28-3/4″ – Back
  • 2 – 1×4 at 11-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1×4 at 16-1/8″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 10-1/2″ x 16-5/8″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 1 – 1×6 at 18-3/8″ – Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1×2 at 15-3/8″ – Door Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 19-1/2″ – Door Trim
  • 3 – 1×6 planks at 16-1/2″ – Door Panel

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes about the project:

Make sure the 1×12 boards are 11-1/4″ wide. The boards I used were wider and I had to rip them down on the table saw!

Step One

Cut the pieces to length for the side framing and panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1×2 framing piece and the lower end of the longer 1×2 framing pieces. Pocket holes will also be drilled in each end of the planks. Dry fit the planks together and position the shorter 1×2 framing piece at the top end of the planks. Make a mark where the planks overlap the framing piece (usually the tongue of one piece and the groove of the other). This will have to be ripped off at the table saw.

Draw the arc on the lower framing pieces and cut it out with a jigsaw. Assemble the side panels as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the lower front and back stretchers. Draw an arc on each piece and cut it out with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece, then secure to the lower end of the side panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Bottom Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position the shelf between the lower front and back stretchers (the top face of the shelf will be flush with the top edge of the stretchers) securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Bottom Shelf

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The pocket holes in the back stretchers can face to the back of the cabinet.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Back Stretchers

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Front Stretchers

Step Five

Cut the piece for the shelf and drill pocket holes in one long edge as well as the two shorter edges. Secure the shelf to the side panels and the corresponding back stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The shelf will sit 3/4″ back from the front edge of the sides to allow for the door.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Shelf

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the 1×12 panel, as well as in each end of the shorter 1×2 pieces. Assemble the top using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Position the top on the top of the cabinet. The sides will overhang by 5/8″ and the front and back will overhang by 3/4″. Secure in place using glue and 2″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Top 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Top 2

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the back. Center the back on the cabinet securing in place with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Back

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box front and back pieces on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Drawer Box 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Drawer Box 2

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Drawer Box 3

Step Ten

Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box front to the drawer box sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Since the drawer is an odd length, the drawer slides will have to be cut to fit. This can be done easily with a hacksaw. For an easy how-to, click here. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Drawer Box 4

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Drawer Front

Step Twelve

Cut the pieces for the door. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1×2 pieces, as well as in each end of the planks. Dry fit the planks together and position the shorter 1×2 framing piece at the top end of the planks. Make a mark where the planks overlap the framing piece (usually the tongue of one piece and the groove of the other). This will have to be ripped off at the table saw.

Assemble the door as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Door 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - Door 2

Finish as desired. To install the hinges, shim the door in place then secure the hinges to the front facing edge of the sides. Pre-drill the holes for the screws, then secure the hinges to the door. Install the magnetic catch under the shelf inside the cabinet with the other piece attached to the door.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build Ryan's End Table - A fabulous end table with optional superhero accents

I painted Ryan’s end table in a slick red to match the Spiderman art piece on the front. I sprayed the finish with an HVLP sprayer. Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build Ryan’s End Table? Leave a comment below!




A Storage Piece with a Modern Vibe

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters

This table is not only ultra-functional – it is also an extremely easy build! The DIY furniture plans to build a Mod Storage Table on Casters features two levels of storage space for books, magazine, craft supplies, etc. all while functioning as an end table! The piece is also very inexpensive and the finish can be customized however desired!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ brad nails
  • 1-3/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • Pocket hole plugs or wood filler
  • 2″ casters
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools Needed:

  • Table saw or circular saw
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Drill
  • Iron for edge banding
  • Right angle drill attachment (for tight spaces)
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
  • Sander

Lumber:

  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 22″ x 22″ – Top, Middle & Bottom Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12″ x 22″ – Lower Shelf Divider
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-5/8″ x 12″ – Lower Shelf Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 7″ x 22″ – Upper Shelf Divider
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 7″ x 10-5/8″ – Upper Shelf Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19″ x 19″ – Lower Platform

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the top, bottom and middle shelves. Apply edge banding to cover the exposed edges of the plywood using an iron.

Step Two

Cut the piece for the longer lower shelf divider and apply edge banding to the shorter edges. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in one long edge of the piece. Secure the divider to the bottom piece using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Lower Shelves 1

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the remaining lover dividers and apply edge banding to the side edges (measuring 12″). Drill pocket holes in the bottom edge as well as one long edge treating the pieces as left and right (there will be two of each). Secure the dividers to the longer divider and the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Use a right angle drill where necessary.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Lower Shelves 2

Step Four

Secure the middle shelf to the top of the lower dividers using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Middle Shelf

Step Five

Cut the piece for the longer upper divider and apply edge banding to the side edges of the piece. Drill pocket holes along one long edge. Secure the divider to the middle shelf using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Upper Shelves 1

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the remaining upper dividers and apply edge banding to the side edges (measuring 7″). Drill pocket holes in the bottom edge as well as one long edge. Secure the dividers to the middle shelf and the longer divider using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Upper Shelves 2

Step Seven

Secure the top piece to the upper dividers using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Top

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the platform and apply edge banding to the exposed edges. Secure the piece to the underside of the bottom shelf using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Bottom Platform

Finish as desired, then install the casters according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mod Storage Table on Casters - Casters

What a great table, right? Built as a pair, they would be great nightstands in a bedroom as well! Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Mod Storage Table on Casters? Leave a comment below – I’m always happy to answer questions!




A Small Cabinet with Lots of Storage

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest

This little cabinet can serve a great purpose in so many rooms… The DIY plans to build a Cate Chest feature a drawer on top and a door at the bottom with two shelves inside. The drawer front and door are pieced to make it look vintage! This is a very easy build and can be finished in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Copy

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-3/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 29-1/4″ – Legs
  • 2 – 1×2 at 12″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12″ x 23-3/4″ – Side Panels
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14″ x 15″ – Upper Shelf & Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 14″ – Center Shelf
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 15-1/2″ x 24-7/8″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-1/2″ x 18″ – Top
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 12-3/4″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-3/8″ x 12-3/4″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 13-7/8″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – 1×3 at 13-7/8″ – Drawer Box Front Trim
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-3/4″ x 18″ – Door Base
  • 3 – 1×3 at 13-3/4″ – Door Trim

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper using a jigsaw, bandsaw or a tapering jig on a table saw.

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the side framing and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces and all four edges of the panels. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the panels to the side framing assembly using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the side framing assembly.

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Sides

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the upper shelf and bottom, and drill pocket holes in the side edges. Secure the upper shelf and bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Upper Shelf & Bottom

Step Four

Cut the piece for the center shelf and drill pocket holes in the side edges. Position the shelf so it is flush with the back of the legs which will make it 1-1/2″ back from the front legs (to allow for the door). Secure the shelf to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Center Shelf

Step Five

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Back

Step Six

Cut the piece for the top. The top will be flush with the back, and will overhang the sides and front by 1/2″. Secure in place using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Top

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the 1×3 trim piece using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Apply a  coat of paste wax to the bottom of the drawer to help it slide smoothly.

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Drawer 1

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Drawer 2

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the door. Attach the trim pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Install the hinges on the door, then install the door in the cabinet.

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Door 1

DIY Plans to Build a Cate Chest-Door 2

Finish as desired.

This cabinet would make a fabulous nightstand or an end table in a living room! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Cate Chest? Leave a comment below!




A Modern Nightstand with Storage

DIY Plans to Build a Cole Nightstand

This modern nightstand would be fabulous in any room! The DIY plans to build a Cole Nightstand feature angled sides with an open shelf at the top and a drop-down door on the shelf at the bottom. This easy to build nightstand (or side table, if you will) can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Cole Nightstand-Copy

 

DIY Plans to Build a Cole Nightstand-Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-3/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Magnetic catch
  • 4 – 4″ furniture feet with mounting plates
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 13″ x 14″ – Sides
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 13″ x 16-1/2″ – Bottom & Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 19″ – Top
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 14″ x 17-1/4″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-3/8″ x 16-1/4″ – Drop-Down Front

DIY Plans to Build a Cole Nightstand

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut the angle using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

DIY Plans to Build a Cole Nightstand-Sides

Step Two

Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure the bottom to the lower edge of the side pieces using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Cole Nightstand-Bottom

Step Three

Cut the piece for the shelf. Secure the shelf to the sides as shown using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Cole Nightstand-Shelf

Step Four

Cut the piece for the top. The back edge of the top will be flush with the back edge of the sides, which will make the front overhang by 1/2″. The sides will also overhang by 1/2″. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Cole Nightstand-Top

Step Five

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Cole Nightstand-Back

Step Six

Cut the piece for the drop-down front. Install the hinges on the front, then install in the cabinet. Install the magnetic catch to keep the front in position.

DIY Plans to Build a Cole Nightstand-Drop Down Front 1

DIY Plans to Build a Cole Nightstand-Drop Down Front 2

Step Seven

Install the leg mounting plates on the bottom of the cabinet according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Install the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Cole Nightstand-Legs

 

Finish as desired.

This table would be great in a stained or painted finish… A stenciled design would be amazing on the top and front, or on the sides! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Cole Nightstand? Leave a comment below!




An Easy to Build Table with Storage

DIY Plans to Build Hannah’s Nightstand

When I built a new bed for my daughter, I figured she might need a new nightstand to go along with it! The DIY plans to build Hannah’s Nightstand feature two open shelves with a roomy top. The nightstand is 24″ tall making it the perfect height to store an alarm clock, a book, and a media device!

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Nightstand-Featured

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Nightstand-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×6 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 3 – 2′ x 2′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 23-1/4″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 11″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 1×6 at 16-1/4″ – Side Panels (I used beaded tongue and groove planks in the example)
  • 3 – 2×2 at 21″ – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 21″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14″ x 24″ – Top
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 19-1/4″ x 22-1/2″ – Back

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Nightstand

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, side framing, and the side panels. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side panel pieces. Secure the planks to the framing pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back faces of the planks will be flush with the back faces of the framing pieces.

Secure the panel and framing assembly to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Nightstand-Side Panels & Framing

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the front legs as shown in the drawing.

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Nightstand-Front Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each side edge and one long edge of each piece. Secure the shelves to the front stretchers and side panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Nightstand-Shelves

Step Four

Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the top piece prior to assembly. Secure the top using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The top is flush with the cabinet on all sides.

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Nightstand-Top

Step Five

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Nightstand-Back

Finish as desired.

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Nightstand-Downward View

DIY Plans to Build Hannah's Nightstand-Front View

This table can be used as an end table in a living room or any room where a small table with storage would be useful! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build Hannah’s Nightstand? Leave a comment below!




An Easy to Build Industrial/Rustic End Table

DIY Plans to Build a Cross-Leg End Table

This table is certainly one of my favorite projects… Not only is the build incredibly easy, but it is inexpensive and firts in with an industrial/rustic style perfectly! The DIY plans to build a Cross-Leg End Table features leg frames that are connected at the top and “enhanced” (so to speak) with a threaded rod purely for decorative purposes. The top is a roomy 24″ x 24″ and can be constructed out of planked boards or a solid piece of plywood. It can also be cut in an octagon shape for a different look. This is a build that can be completed in an afternoon!

DIY Plans to Build a Cross-Leg End Table_Featured

DIY Plans to Build a Cross-Leg End Table_Square Top

DIY Plans to Build a Cross-Leg End Table_Octagon Top

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ screws
  • Edge banding (if using plywood for the top)
  • 1/2″ threaded rod at 2′, with two nuts and washers
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×6 at 8′  OR
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 22-1/2″ – Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 19″ – Stretchers
  • 1 – 1×2 at 22″ – Top Support
  • 2 – 1×2 at 10-1/4″ – Top Supports
  • 5 – 1×6 at 24″ – Planked Top  OR
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 24″ x 24″ – Top

DIY Plans to Build a Cross-Leg End Table

Click the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and the stretchers. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Secure the stretchers as shown in the drawing to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cross-Leg End Table_Stretchers 1

Step Two

Position the leg assemblies as shown in the drawing, then secure the remaining stretcher to the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Cross-Leg End Table_Stretchers 2

Step Three

Cut the threaded rod to fit flush against the uppermost stretcher and the lower stretcher. Include enough rod to allow for a washer and a nut at each end (the rod will not extend past the nut on either end). The rod is purely for decorative purposes so the nuts do not have to be tightened to snugly against the stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build a Cross-Leg End Table_Threaded Rod

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the top supports. Secure the longer support to the top of the legs using glue and countersunk 1-1/2″ screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in one end of each of the pieces. Secure the shorter pieces to the longer top support piece using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, the secure the other ends to the top of the legs using glue and countersunk 1-1/2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Cross-Leg End Table_TopSupports 1

DIY Plans to Build a Cross-Leg End Table_TopSupports 2

Step Five

Cut the piece for the top. If using 1×6 planks, drill pocket holes along one long edge of four of the pieces. Assemble the top using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Rip the width of the top on the table saw to 24″ (subtracting approximately 1-3/4″ from each side).

If using plywood for the top, apply edge banding to all four edges.

Position the leg assembly on the underside of the top as shown in the drawing. Secure in place with toenailed screws through the top supports into the top.

DIY Plans to Build a Cross-Leg End Table_Top

Finish as desired. I found it easier to finish the leg assemblies with the top supports and top separate, then put everything together.

DIY Plans to Build a Cross-Leg End Table_Front View

DIY Plans to Build a Cross-Leg End Table_Top View

DIY Plans to Build a Cross-Leg End Table_Side View

This fabulous end table will work well in any room – maybe even as a pair on either side of a bed as nightstands! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Cross-Leg End Table? Leave a comment below!




A Nightstand to Pair with the Mayweather Dressers

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Nightstand

If you like either of the Mayweather Dressers (found here and here), this nightstand is the perfect companion! The DIY plans to build a Mayweather Dresser feature two drawers with built-in handles on the drawer fronts. The nightstand, like the dressers, is a super-easy build and can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Nightstand_Copy

Materials:

Materials and supplies listed are to build ONE nightstand.

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 2 sets of 14″ drawer slides (eBay is a great source!)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • Scrap piece of 1×2 at 16-1/2″
  • 1 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/4″ x 15-1/2″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-1/2″ x 16-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 1 – 1×2 at 16-1/2″ – Stretcher
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15-1/2″ x 18″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 13-3/4″ – Base
  • 1 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 16-1/2″ – Kick Plate
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 13-1/4″ x 17-1/4″ – Back
  • 8 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 14″ – Drawer Box
  • 2 – 1/4″ plywood at 13″ x 14-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 4 – 1×3 (ripped to 2-1/4″ wide) at 16-1/4″ – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 1×2 at 16-1/4″ – Drawer Front Handles

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Nightstand

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the sides and bottom. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each side edge of the bottom. Secure the bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Nightstand_Sides & Bottom

Step Two

Cut the piece for the 1×2 stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretcher to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Nightstand_Stretcher

Step Three

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the top into the sides.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Nightstand_Top

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the base and drill pocket holes along one long edge. Secure the base pieces to the bottom as indicated in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the kick plate and secure the kick plate to the base pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Nightstand_Base DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Nightstand_Kick Plate

Step Five

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Nightstand_Back

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 3/8″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box sides on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Nightstand_Drawer 1

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Nightstand_Drawer 2

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Nightstand_Drawer 3

Step Eight

Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box sides to the drawer box front using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions, locating them flush with the front edge of the sides and dividers.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Nightstand_Drawer 4

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Cut the 1×2 handles to length, then cut the angles in the edges as shown in the drawing.

Drill pocket holes along one long edge of each drawer front piece, staggering the pocket holes so they won’t interfere with each other. Sandwich the 1×2 between the wider pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Nightstand_Drawer Fronts 1

Step Ten

Secure each drawer front to the corresponding drawer box using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Open the drawers, then secure the fronts from the inside using 1-1/4″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Mayweather Nightstand_Drawer Fronts 2

Finish as desired.

This nightstand, paired with one or both of the dressers, will make an awesome statement in any style! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Mayweather Nightstand? Leave a comment below!




A Simple Nightstand to Build with a Mirrored Door

DIY Plans to Build a Valerie Nightstand

I really like the simplicity of this plan… The DIY plans to build a Valerie Nightstand feature a mirrored door and an inner shelf. The door hinges can be positioned on either side for a beautiful pair! This is a very quick and easy build that can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Valerie Nightstand_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Mirror – 10-3/4″ x 15-3/4″
  • Silicone for mirror installation
  • 1 set of hinges
  • 1 cabinet pull
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

Lumber listed is for ONE nightstand

  • 1 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14″ x 16-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 4 – 2×2 at 23-1/4″ – Legs
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11″ x 18-1/2″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 18-1/2″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-3/4″ x 13-1/2″ – Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14″ x 16-1/2″ – Top
  • 2 – 1×2 at 10-1/4″ – Door Rails
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18-1/4″ – Door Stiles

DIY Plans to Build a Valerie Nightstand

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the piece for the bottom and cut the notches using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Using a portable pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in the notches as shown.

DIY Plans to Build a Valerie Nightstand_Bottom

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the legs. Position the bottom on the legs as shown (4″ up from the bottom of the legs) securing with glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Valerie Nightstand_Legs

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure the sides to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside face of the sides will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Valerie Nightstand_Sides

Step Four

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure the back to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside face of the back will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Valerie Nightstand_Back

Step Five

Cut the piece for the shelf. The shelf will be positioned flush with the back making it 3/4″ back from the front face of the legs to allow for the door. Drill pocket holes along the back edge of the shelf. Secure the shelf using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws into the back. Secure the sides of the shelf using 1-1/2″ brad nails through the sides into the shelf.

DIY Plans to Build a Valerie Nightstand_Shelf

Step Six

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Valerie Nightstand_Top

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the door. Assemble the door using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Use a router and a 1/4″ rabbeting bit to cut a 1/4″ deep rabbet around the inside of the frame to allow for the mirror. Use a hammer and a chisel to square the corners of the rabbet.

Cut the piece of mirror to fit in the rabbet. Secure the mirror in place using a bead of silicone.

DIY Plans to Build a Valerie Nightstand_Door 1

DIY Plans to Build a Valerie Nightstand_Door 2

Step Eight

Install the hinges on the door, then install the door on the cabinet. Install the cabinet pull.

DIY Plans to Build a Valerie Nightstand_Door 3

Finish as desired.

Glass, Plexiglas, or punched aluminum can be substituted for the mirror on the door. The nightstand would also make an excellent end table either alone or in a pair. Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com if there are questions about the DIY plans to build a Valerie Nightstand!

 




Build a Presley 5-Drawer Table

A Table That Mimics a Library Card Catalog – the Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans

I love little tables with lots of drawers and this little table is no exception! The Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans feature a total of five drawers – three smaller on top with two larger on bottom – and raised trim on the sides and back, as well as a large shelf at the bottom. This table can also do dual duty as an end table or a nightstand.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 5 – labeled drawer pulls
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 half sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 full sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 27-1/4″ – Legs
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 13″ – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1×2 at 13″ – Lower Leg Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 19-7/8″ – Back
  • 2 – 1×2 at 19-7/8″ – Lower Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1- 3/4″ plywood at 13″ x 19-7/8″ – Lower Shelf
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 19-7/8″ – Lower & Upper Drawer Shelves
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-1/4″ x 14-1/2″ – Lower & Upper Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 23-7/8″ – Top
  • 1 – 1×2 (ripped to 1″ wide) at 21-3/8″ – Top Back Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 (ripped to 1″ wide) at 16″ – Top Side Trim
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 13″ – Smaller Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-3/16″ x 13″ – Smaller Drawer Sides
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-3/16″ x 6″ – Smaller Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-15/16″ x 13″ – Larger Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-3/16″ x 13″ – Larger Drawer Sides
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-3/16″ x 9-7/16″ – Larger Drawer Front & Back

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side panels, and the lower leg stretchers. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers as well as the side edges of the panels. Secure the side panels to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back side of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Secure the lower leg stretchers as shown orienting the pocket holes so they face down. If it is a tight fit, a close-quarter drill or a right angle drill attachment may have to be used.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the back panel and the lower front and back stretchers. Secure the back panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back side of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Secure the lower leg stretchers as shown orienting the pocket holes so they face down.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Back & Lower Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the piece for the bottom shelf and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the shelf to the lower stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Bottom Shelf

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the lower and upper shelves, as well as the lower and upper dividers. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the lower shelf only. Position the lower shelf as shown, then secure to the side panels, back panel, and legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Drill pocket holes in the lower edge of each of the dividers. Position the first divider on the lower shelf, and secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Lower Shelf

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Lower Divider

Step Five

Position the upper shelf on the lower divider as shown then secure to the sides, back, and lower divider using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Position the remaining two dividers on the upper shelf securing them in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Upper Shelf

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Upper Dividers

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Cut the curve in the side trim pieces using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Secure the trim pieces to the top locating the trim pieces 1/2″ from each edge using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the bottom into the trim. Add a few brad nails to the side trim into the back trim.

Position the top on the cabinet so that 1/2″ overlaps on all sides. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Top Side Trim

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Top 1

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Top 2

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the smaller drawers. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Sm Drawer BS

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Sm Drawer FB

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the smaller drawers. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Lg Drawer BS

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Lg Drawer FB

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Drawers

Finish as desired, and apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of each drawer to help it slide smoothly in the opening.

Although this project may seem intimidating to build given the number of drawers, it is relatively simple and would be the perfect first project! Have any questions about the Presley 5-drawer table plans? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Sleek, Modern Nightstand

The Hite Bedside Table Plans –  Perfect for Modern Decor!

I’m definitely adding the Hite Bedside Table plans to my “to build” list… I love the modern simplicity and sleek design! This project will be particularly easy featuring a roomy top and two drawers, plus it will be inexpensive to boot!

hite bedside table plans_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Masking Tape
  • 2 sets of 16″ Drawer slides
  • 2 – Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 1 sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1×2 at 18″ – Top & Base Frames
  • 4 – 1×2 at 22″ – Top & Base Frames
  • 2 – 3/4 plywood at 18″ x 22″ – Top & Base Panels
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 22″ – Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 16-3/4″ – Sides
  • 1 – 1×2 at 16-1/2″ – Drawer Stretcher
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14″ x 14-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1×6 at 14-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1×6 at 15-1/2″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-13/16″ x 18″ – Drawer Fronts

hite bedside table plans

Notes:

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the base frame and base panel. Cut a 45 degree bevel on one long edge of each 1×2 piece as well as all four edges of the panel. Cut a 45 degree miter in each end of the 1×2 pieces. Spread glue on each mitered edge and with the flat edge of the 1×2 pieces on a flat surface, assemble the frame. Use masking tape to wrap around the outside perimeter of the base frame to hold the pieces in place while the glue dries.

Once the glue is dry, spread glue on the beveled edges of the panel. Place the panel in the frame so that the beveled edges touch the corresponding beveled edges of the frame. Use masking tape to hold the panel in place until the glue dries.

 hite bedside table plans_Base 1

hite bedside table plans_Base 2

 

hite bedside table plans_Base 3

Step Two

Cut the piece for the back. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges as shown. Secure to the base with glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the back piece will be flush with the back edge of the base.

 hite bedside table plans_Back

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges, as well as the back edge. Note that the sides will be approximately 3/4″ taller than the back. Position the sides as shown locating the pieces 2″ in from each side and flush with the inside of the back. Secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 hite bedside table plans_Sides

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the top frame and top panel. Assemble in the same manner as the base. Set the top over the sides, resting the back edge on the back piece. Secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

 hite bedside table plans_Top 1

hite bedside table plans_Top 2

 

hite bedside table plans_Top 3

Step Five

Cut the piece for the drawer stretcher and drill pocket holes in each edge. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Orient the piece so that the pocket holes face down and will be hidden.

 hite bedside table plans_Drawer Stretcher

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. . For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

 hite bedside table plans_Drawer BS

hite bedside table plans_Drawer FB

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

 hite bedside table plans_Drawer Fronts

Finish as desired!

 

I am so excited to put the Hite Bedside Table plans to use – only I cannot decide which species of wood to use… Decisions, decisions! Need help? Let me know! Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!