Easy to Build Seating for the Outdoors

DIY Plans to Build a Simple Outdoor Bench

I love being outdoors, especially when I have fabulous outdoor furniture upon which to enjoy the outdoors! The DIY plans to build a Simple Outdoor Bench are perfect for those new to woodworking, featuring doubled stretchers and built out of off-the-shelf treated lumber. This is an easy project that can be completed in a day with no extra finishing required!

DIY Plans to Build a Simple Outdoor Bench_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws for outdoor use
  • 1-1/2″ screws for outdoor use
  • Wood glue for outdoor use
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)

Lumber:

  • 1×3
  • 3×3 posts (4×4 posts can be trimmed on the tablesaw or 2 – 2x4s glued together and trimmed on the tablesaw will also work!)

Cut List:

  • 4 – 3×3 at 17-1/4″ – Legs
  • 8 – 1×3 at 33″ – Side Stretchers
  • 12 – 1×3 at 13″ – End Stretchers & Supports
  • 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 2-1/4″ wide) at 33″ – Outer Slats
  • 5 – 1×3 at 38″ – Notched & Center Slats
  • 7 – 1×3 at 39″ – Seat Slats

DIY Plans to Build a Simple Outdoor Bench

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and side stretchers. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ exterior pocket hole screws.

It will be easier to start with securing the outer stretchers then moving inward. The outer stretchers are located 1/4″ in from the outside face of the legs. The inner stretchers are positioned so they are flush with the inside face of the legs, which will leave a 3/4″ space between the stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build a Simple Outdoor Bench_Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the end stretchers and the supports, and drill pocket holes in each end. The stretchers will be secured using glue and 1-1/4″ exterior pocket hole screws in the same manner as the side stretchers – located 1/4″ back from the outside face of the legs, and flush with the inside of the legs. The supports will be positioned as shown.

DIY Plans to Build a Simple Outdoor Bench_Lower Stretchers

DIY Plans to Build a Simple Outdoor Bench_Upper Stretchers & Supports

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the outer slats. Secure the slats to the lower stretchers – the outside edge of the slats will be flush with the outside face of the legs – using glue and 1-1/2″ exterior screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Simple Outdoor Bench_Outer Slats

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the remaining slats. Two of the slats will have notches cut in them to fit around the legs. There will be a 1/4″ space between the notched slats and the outer slats, and they will be secured to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/2″ exterior screws.

Secure the remaining slats with a 1/4″ space between them using glue and 1-1/2″ exterior screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Simple Outdoor Bench_Notched Slats 1

DIY Plans to Build a Simple Outdoor Bench_Notched Slats 2

DIY Plans to Build a Simple Outdoor Bench_Center Slats

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. The slats will overhang the seat frame by 1/2″ on all sides, and will have a 1/4″ space between each slat. Secure the slats to the stretchers and supports using glue and 1-1/2″ exterior screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Simple Outdoor Bench_Seat Slats

Though this bench doesn’t need any further finishing when using treated lumber, the lumber can be painted or stained once the chemicals dry, if desired! The bench will be fabulous for warm weather entertaining or even for relaxing by a fire! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Simple Outdoor Bench? Leave a comment below!




A Simple to Build Bench with Lots of Style!

DIY Plans to Build a Taboreh Bench

Benches are fun pieces to build, mainly because they can be used in any area inside or outside of the home. The DIY plans to Build a Taboreh Bench are super-simple with a hefty 2x base, curved aprons, a plain seat (the outside edges can be cut with a router), and a plain back. The bench can be built using plain pine boards for indoor use, or treated lumber for outdoor use!

DIY Plans to Build a Taboreh Bench_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ nails, screws, or brad nails
  • 3″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×6 at 4′
  • 1 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×8 at 4′
  • 1 – 2×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×4 at 4′
  • 2 – 2×6 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×6 at 31″ – Back Legs
  • 2 – 2×3 at 17-1/4″ – Front Legs
  • 2 – 2×6 at 13″ – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×6 at 35″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×4 at 13″ – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 2×3 at 38″ – Back Top
  • 1 – 1×6 at 35″ – Back
  • 2 – 1×6 at 40″ – Seat
  • 1 – 1×8 at – 40″ – Seat

DIY Plans to Build a Taboreh Bench

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the back legs. Draw the legs on each of the 2×6 pieces according to the dimensions in the drawing. Cut the legs using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

DIY Plans to Build a Taboreh Bench_Back Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the front legs and the side stretchers. Draw the arc on the lower edge of the side stretchers and cut with a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece with a pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material. Secure the side stretchers to the front and back legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Taboreh Bench_Side Stretchers 1

DIY Plans to Build a Taboreh Bench_Side Stretchers 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers. Draw the arc on the lower edge of the front and back stretchers, and cut with a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the stretchers to the legs (locating the pieces 1″ back from the outside edge of the legs) using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Taboreh Bench_Seat 1

DIY Plans to Build a Taboreh Bench_FB Stretchers 2

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the front and back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The top edge of the supports will be flush with the top edge of the stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build a Taboreh Bench_Seat Supports

Step Five

Cut the piece for the top back. Position the piece on the top of the back legs securing in place using glue and countersunk 3″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Taboreh Bench_Back Top

Step Six

Cut the piece for the back. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Secure to the back legs and the underside of the top using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Taboreh Bench_Back

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the seat. Cut the notches in one of the 1×6 seat pieces using a jigsaw or a band saw. Secure the board the bench frame using glue and 1-1/2″ nails, screws, or brad nails.

Secure the remaining seat pieces to the frame using glue and 1-1/2″ nails, screws, or brad nails spacing the pieces 1/2″ from each other. The pieces will overhang the sides by 1″, and the front 1×6 will also overhang the front by 1″.

DIY Plans to Build a Taboreh Bench_Seat 1

DIY Plans to Build a Taboreh Bench_Seat 2

Finish as desired.

The bench would be a fabulous option in any room or even on a porch or deck! There are so many ways to finish this little bench and I would love to see your hard work! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Taboreh Bench? Leave a comment below!




A Beautiful Chair to Match the Holly Dining Table

DIY Plans to Build the Holly Dining Chair

Previously, I posted plans to build the Holly Dining Table, so why not add plans for a chair to match? The DIY plans to build the Holly Dining Chair match the table perfectly with inset aprons and a high back. The chair also features angled supports under the seat to keep everything nice and square! This chair is super easy to construct using straight off-the-shelf lumber, and several can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build the Holly Dining Chair_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 4′
  • 1 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 2 – 3/4″ square dowels at 4′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×4 at 40″ – Back Legs
  • 8 – 1×2 at 19″ – Aprons
  • 4 – 3/4″ sq. dowel at 19″ – Aprons
  • 2 – 2×2 at 17-1/4″ – Front Legs
  • 4 – 1×2 at 11-1/2″ – Seat Supports
  • 4 – 1×4 at 19″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at  22″ x 22″ – Seat

DIY Plans to Build the Holly Dining Chair

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the 2×4 pieces to length for the back legs. Draw the back legs on the board using the dimensions as shown in the drawing. Cut out the legs using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Clamp the legs together and sand as one unit.

DIY Plans to Build the Holly Dining Chair_Back Leg

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the aprons. A 3/4″ square dowel will be sandwiched in between two 1×2 pieces. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 pieces. Position a dowel between two 1x2s with the back edges flush then secure with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The pocket holes on the 1×2 pieces will face out.

DIY Plans to Build the Holly Dining Chair_Seat Aprons 1

 

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front legs. Secure the aprons to the front legs and back legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build the Holly Dining Chair_Seat Aprons 2

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. Cut the pieces to length, then cut 45° miters in each end. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the aprons using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build the Holly Dining Chair_Seat Support

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the back and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the back pieces to the back legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front face of the back pieces will be flush with the front faces of the back legs.

DIY Plans to Build the Holly Dining Chair_Back

Step Six

Cut the piece for the seat. Apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly. Cut the notches using a jigsaw. Secure the seat to the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the seat into the frame and supports.

DIY Plans to Build the Holly Dining Chair_Seat 1

DIY Plans to Build the Holly Dining Chair_Seat 2

Finish as desired.

The chair would be fabulous in any finish – stained, painted, stenciled, etc. and is a great plan for those new to woodworking! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Holly Dining Chair? Leave a comment below!




A Simple, Sturdy, and Stunning Bench

DIY Plans to Build a Lilley Bench

I think the style of this bench is really neat… It has a sort of Greek Key/Asian flair to it! The DIY plans to build a Lilley Bench are really simple and inexpensive to construct. The seat is upholstered and can also be tufted based on your preferences. This is a great piece that can also double as an upholstered coffee table!

DIY Plans to Build a Lilley Bench_Copy

DIY Plans to Build a Lilley Bench_Side View

DIY Plans to Build a Lilley Bench_Front View

Materials:

  • 2″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 3″ thick upholstery foam at 36″ x 60″ (two layers of 1-1/2″ foam will work as well)
  • Upholstery batting
  • 2 yards of 54″ or 60″ wide decorator fabric
  • 1″ screws and washers, and buttons to cover, if tufting the seat
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 9 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 18″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 57″ – Side Frames
  • 4 – 2×2 at 20-1/2″ – Side Frames
  • 4 – 2×2 at 9″ – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2×2 at 36″ – Side Frames
  • 4 – 2×2 at 3″ – Side Frames
  • 4 – 2×2 at 33″ – End Frames & Seat Supports
  • 4 – 2×2 at 10-1/2″ – End Frames
  • 4 – 2×2 at 9″ – End Frames
  • 2 – 2×2 at 18″ – End Frames
  • 4 – 2×2 at 3″ – End Frames
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 36″ x 60″ – Seat

DIY Plans to Build a Lilley Bench

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side frames. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the 57″ pieces, the 20-1/2″ pieces, and the 36″ pieces. Drill pocket holes in one long edge of the 57″ pieces to attach the seat when the bench frame is assembled. Drill pocket holes in one end only of the 9″ pieces. Assemble the side frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Lilley Bench_Frame

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the end frames and seat supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 18″ pieces (there are six of them) and the 10-1/2″ pieces. Drill pocket holes in one long edge of the 18″ pieces to attach the seat when the bench frame is assembled. Drill pocket holes in one end only of the 9″ pieces. Assemble the ends as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Lilley Bench_Ends 1

DIY Plans to Build a Lilley Bench_Ends 2

DIY Plans to Build a Lilley Bench_Ends 3

Step Three

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the 3″ foam to the same size as the seat. Wrap the foam with the batting and the fabric, then staple to the underside of the board for the seat. If tufting the seat, do so using the 1″ screws and washers before stapling the fabric and batting to the underside of the seat piece.

DIY Plans to Build a Lilley Bench_Seat

Finish the frame as desired. Position the seat on the frame securing in place using 2″ pocket hole screws.

This would be a great bench at the foot of a bed or as mentioned above, a fabulous upholstered coffee table. Leave a comment below if there are any questions about the DIY plans to build a Lilley Bench!




An Excellent Bench for an Entryway or Mudroom

DIY Plans to Build a Slatted Hall Bench

Do you need a place to corral coats, backpacks, scarves, and such? I have a fabulous solution! The DIY plans to build a Slatted Hall Bench feature a tall back with hooks and a lidded seat for extra storage. This is a super-easy plan that can be completed in a weekend.

DIY Plans to Build a Slatted Hall Bench_Copy

Materials:

  • 1″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 3 hinges or 1 continuous hinge for the seat lid
  • Coat hooks (as many as you’d like!)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 4′
  • 3 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 6 – 1×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×12 at 4′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1×4 at 42″ – Side Frames
  • 6 – 1×4 at 11″ – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1/2″ plywood at 11″ x 15-3/4″ – Side Panels
  • 4 – 1×4 at 16-1/2″ – End Frames
  • 4 – 1×4 (ripped to 2-3/4″ wide) at 11″ – End Frames
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 11″ x 11″ – End Panels
  • 3 – 1×2 at 16-1/2″ – Bottom Frame
  • 4 – 1×2 at 19-1/8″ – Bottom Frame
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 16-1/2″ x 40-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 1 – 1×4 at 42″ – Hinge Board
  • 2 – 1×3 at 43-1/2″ – Back Sides
  • 1 – 1×4 at 44″ – Top
  • 1 – 1×4 at 40-1/2″ – Back
  • 1 – 1×12 at 40-1/2″ – Back
  • 7 – 1×3 at 28-3/4″ – Back Slats
  • 2 – 1×2 at 42″ – Seat Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 11-3/8″ – Seat Trim
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-3/8″ x 39″ – Seat

DIY Plans to Build a Slatted Hall Bench

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the side frames. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces as shown in the drawing. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the pocket hole jig for 1/2″ material and drill pocket hole screws in all four edges. Insert the panels into the frame, then secure using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the frame.

DIY Plans to Build a Slatted Hall Bench_Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the end frames. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces as well as one long edge of the shorter pieces (this will allow the end frames to be attached to the side frames). Assemble the frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the end panels. Set the pocket hole jig for 1/2″ material and drill pocket hole screws in all four edges. Insert the panels into the frame, then secure using glue and 1″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the frame.

Secure the end frames to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Slatted Hall Bench_Ends 1


DIY Plans to Build a Slatted Hall Bench_Ends 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the bottom frame. Attach the frame pieces to the inside lower edge of the frames using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Cut the piece for the bottom. The bottom piece will rest on top of the frame. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Slatted Hall Bench_Bottom Frame

DIY Plans to Build a Slatted Hall Bench_Bottom

Step Four

Cut the piece for the hinge board. The hinge board will be flush with the sides and the back edge of the bench box. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Slatted Hall Bench_Hinge Board

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the sides to the top of the hinge board (with the side and back edges flush) using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides of the top will overhang the sides by 1″. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Slatted Hall Bench_Back Sides

DIY Plans to Build a Slatted Hall Bench_Top

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in each end and one long edge of each piece. Secure the 1×4 to the hinge board and the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the 1×12 board to the sides and top using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Slatted Hall Bench_Back

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Space the slats as shown in the drawing, securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Slatted Hall Bench_Slats

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the seat trim and the seat panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Assemble the seat as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Install the hinges on the seat, then attach the hinges to the hinge board. The front edge of the seat will be flush with the front edge of the side leaving a 1/8″ gap between the hinge board and the seat.

DIY Plans to Build a Slatted Hall Bench_Seat 1

DIY Plans to Build a Slatted Hall Bench_Seat 2

Finish as desired.

This is such a great piece ans it will look fantastic in any area of the home. it can also be finished in a variety of ways to make it truly your own! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Slatted Hall Bench? Leave a comment below!




An Easy Chair to Build Just in Time for Holiday Entertaining

DIY Plans to Build a Weatherford Dining Chair

I’ve said it many times before – chairs are so easy to construct and this chair is no exception! Need extra seating for the upcoming holidays? The DIY plans to build a Weatherford Dining Chair are quick and easy! Several can be constructed over the course of a weekend providing extra seating for a fabulous dinner party!

DIY Plans to Build a Weatherford Dining Chair

Materials:

  • 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

To build ONE chair:

  • 1 – scrap 1×2 at 16″
  • 1 – scrap 1×3 at 15″
  • 1 – 1×4 at 6′
  • 1 – scrap 1×6 at 15″
  • 1 – scrap 1x1o at 12″
  • 1 – 2×2 at 4′
  • 1 – 2×4 at 8′
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×4 at 39-1/2″ – Back Legs
  • 4 – 1×4 at 15″ – Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×2 at 17-1/4″ – Front Legs
  • 1 – 1×2 at 16″ – Seat Support
  • 1 – 1×3 at 15″ – Back Frame
  • 1 – 1×6 at 15″ – Back Frame
  • 1 – 1×10 at 12″ – Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 18″ – Seat

DIY Plans to Build a Weatherford Dining Chair_Dims

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the back legs. Draw the back legs on each 2×4 piece as shown in the drawing, then cut out using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

DIY Plans to Build a Weatherford Dining Chair_Back Leg

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Secure on of the stretchers to the back legs as shown using glue and 1-1/2: pocket hole screws. The stretcher will be positioned 1/4″ back from the back face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Weatherford Dining Chair_Back Frame

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front legs. Secure one of the stretchers to the front legs using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The stretcher will be positioned 1/4″ back from the front face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Weatherford Dining Chair_Front Frame

Step Four

Secure the two remaining stretchers to the front and back legs using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The stretchers will be positioned 1/4″ back from the side faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Weatherford Dining Chair_Side Stretchers

Step Five

Cut the piece for the seat support and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the support to the front and back stretchers using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The top edge of the support will be flush with the top edges of the stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build a Weatherford Dining Chair_Seat Support

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the back. Cut the arc in the upper back piece (the 1×6) using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the back pieces to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the 1×10 piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back frame pieces using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Chair_Back Framing 2 Chair_Back

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the seat. Apply the edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood then cut the notches using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

Secure the seat to the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Weatherford Dining Chair_Seat 1

DIY Plans to Build a Weatherford Dining Chair_Seat 2

Finish as desired.

The chairs would look fabulous with a dark stain or each painted a different color. If a high gloss finish is your thing, it would look great as well! Several frames can be built with one long piece for the seat to create a bench, if desired! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Weatherford Dining Chair? Leave a comment below!




An Excellent Bench with Built-In Storage

DIY Plans to Build a Maxwell Shoe Storage Bench

Tired of the mudroom or entryway being a huge mess with piles of shoes and umbrellas? The DIY plans to build a Maxwell Shoe Storage Bench can help solve that problem! Featuring eighteen cubbies, the bench is the ultimate in shoe and umbrella storage, and would be an excellent place to stash pet leashes or a few hat and scarf sets!

DIY Plans to Build a Maxwell Shoe Storage Bench_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-3/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-3/4″ x 20-1/2″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-3/4″ x 44-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 3 – 1×2 at 44-1/2″ – Bottom Stretcher & Upper Stretcher
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19″ x 44-1/2″ – Back
  • 5 – 1/2″ plywood at 14″ x 19″ – Cubby Dividers
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 14″ x 44-1/2″ – Cubby Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-3/4″ x 44″ – Top Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 12-3/4″ – Top Side Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 47″ – Top Front & Back Trim

DIY Plans to Build a Maxwell Shoe Storage Bench

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly!

Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece. Position the bottom 3/4″ up from the lower edge of the sides then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Maxwell Shoe Storage Bench_Bottom & Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the bottom stretchers. Secure to the underside of the bottom piece (between the sides) using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the bottom and lower edge of the sides.

DIY Plans to Build a Maxwell Shoe Storage Bench_Bottom Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in the bottom and side edges of the back piece. Secure to the sides and bottom of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Maxwell Shoe Storage Bench_Back

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the cubbies. Cut the pieces to size first then cut the notches using a jigsaw. Assemble the cubbies by sliding the pieces together, then position the assembly in the cabinet. Secure the cubby assembly to the sides, back, and bottom of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Maxwell Shoe Storage Bench_Cubbies 1

DIY Plans to Build a Maxwell Shoe Storage Bench_Cubbies 2 DIY Plans to Build a Maxwell Shoe Storage Bench_Cubbies 3

Step Five

Cut the piece for the upper stretcher. Position the stretcher between the sides at the top and it will rest in the notches of the vertical cubbies. Secure the stretcher in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Maxwell Shoe Storage Bench_Front Stretcher

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the top panel and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the top panel as well as each end of the shorter trim pieces. Secure the top trim side pieces to the panel first using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then secure the front and back. A decorative edge can be routed on the trim, if desired.

The top will overhang the cabinet by 1/2″ on all sides. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails through the top into the sides, back and front stretcher.

DIY Plans to Build a Maxwell Shoe Storage Bench_Top 1

DIY Plans to Build a Maxwell Shoe Storage Bench_Top 2

Finish as desired.

This bench can be useful as storage in other areas of the home as well. Rolled towels can be placed in the cubbies for storage and seating in a bathroom. The bench can be used at the foot of a kid’s bed to store shoes, small toys, and sweaters. The possibilities are endless! have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Maxwell Shoe Storage Bench? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




An Excellent Seating and Storage Solution!

DIY Plans to Build a Laura Storage Bench

Sometimes a place to sit while taking off your shoes plus a place to put those shoes is necessary – especially if you have kids! The DIY plans to build a Laura Storage Bench are the perfect solution to that dilemma. An easy bench to build (which requires straight off-the-shelf lumber) with matching crates is a project that can be done in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Laura Storage Bench_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 3″ screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

Lumber list includes materials to build two crates!

  • 4 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 4 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×4 at 18″ – Side Frames
  • 2- 2×2 at 15″ – Side Frames
  • 4 – 2×2 at 16-1/2″ – Side Frames
  • 4 – 2×2 at 33″ – Lower & Upper Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 15″ x 33″ – Lower Shelf
  • 2 – 2×2 at 15″ – Seat Supports
  • 2 – 2×2 at 13″ – Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 33″ – Seat
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 12″ x 13-1/2″ – Crate Ends
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 13″ x 14-1/2″ – Crate Bottoms
  • 20 – 1×2 at 16″ – Crate Side Slats

DIY Plans to Build a Laura Storage Bench

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the side frames. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 2×2 pieces, as well as one end only of the longer 2×2 pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Laura Storage Bench_Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the legs, locating them 2″ up from the bottom, and securing them using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Laura Storage Bench_Lower Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the piece for the lower shelf. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the shelf to the lower stretchers and side framing using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build a Laura Storage Bench_Shelf

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the upper stretchers to the legs, locating them 2″ down from the top of the side frame, and securing them in place using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Laura Storage Bench_Upper Stretchers

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. Secure the supports to the side framing (flush with the upper stretchers) using glue and countersunk 3″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Laura Storage Bench_Seat Supports

Step Six

Cut the piece for the seat. If using edge banding, it will need to be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before securing the seat to the frame. Secure the seat using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Laura Storage Bench_Seats

Finish as desired.

To Build the Crates:

Step One

Cut the pieces for the crate ends. Cut the handles in each piece using a 1″ hole saw or paddle bit, and a jigsaw.

DIY Plans to Build a Laura Storage Bench_Crate Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the crate bottoms. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in the shorter edges. Secure the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Laura Storage Bench_Crate Bottom

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the crate side slats. The top slat will be flush with the top of the ends, and the bottom slats will be flush with the bottom of the ends and the bottom of the sides. Secure the slats using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Secure the remaining slats in between spacing them approximately 1-1/8″ apart.

DIY Plans to Build a Laura Storage Bench_Crate Side Slats

Finish as desired.

This bench would be an excellent addition to a mudroom, entryway, or even to a covered porch! The bench would also make a fabulous gift… Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Laura Storage Bench? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




A Fabulous Console Table with Matching Stools

DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools

If extra seating is needed but space doesn’t permit, these plans are for you! The DIY plans to build an Elmore Console Table with Stools feature a roomy table top, three drawers, and room to store three matching stools on the slatted shelf! The console and stools can be finished to match any decor and are the perfect option for holiday entertaining or any dinner party!

DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional (for the seats of the stools)
  • 3 – cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

Lumber listed is for the console table plus three stools

  • 9 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 6 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 3 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 5 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 29-1/4″ – Console Legs
  • 2 – 1×6 at 11″ – Console Sides
  • 2 – 1×2 at 11″ – Console Side Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – 1×6 at 50″ – Console Back
  • 4 – 1×2 at 50″ – Console Upper & Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-3/4″ x 51-1/2″ – Console Bottom
  • 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 4-1/2″ wide) at 13-1/4″ – Console Dividers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 11″ – Drawer Spacers
  • 18 – 1×3 at 14″ – Slats
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12″ x 51″ – Console Top
  • 2 – 1×2 at 12″ – Console Top Side Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 54″ – Console Top Front & Back Trim
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-3/4″ x 14-3/4″ – Center Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 3-5/8″ wide) at 11-3/4″ – Center Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 3-5/8″ wide) at 16-1/4″ – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-3/4″ x 14-1/4″ – Outer Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 3-5/8″ wide) at 11-3/4″ – Outer Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1×6 (ripped to 3-5/8″ wide) at 15-3/4″ – Outer Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 12 – 2×2 at 18-1/4″ – Stool Legs
  • 6 – 1×3 at 11″ – Stool Side Aprons
  • 6 – 1×2 at 11″ – Stool Lower Stretchers
  • 6 – 1×3 at 11″ – Stool Front & Back Aprons
  • 6 – 1×2 at 11″ – Stool Front & Back Lower Stretchers
  • 6 – 1×3 at 14″ – Stool Outer Slats
  • 15 – 1×2 at 14″ – Stool Center Slats
  • 3 – 3/4″ at 15″ x 15″ – Stool Seats

DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the console legs, console sides, and console lower stretchers. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the sides and stretcher pieces. Secure the sides to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside face of the sides will be flush with the outside faces of the legs.

Secure the lower stretcher to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The lower stretcher will be positioned 1/4″ back from the outside faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools_Sides

Step Two

Cut the piece for the console back and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the back to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside face of the back will be flush with the outside faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools_Back

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the upper stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Position the lower stretchers 1/4″ back from the outside faces of the legs. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools_Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece for the console bottom. Cut the notches using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the bottom to the lower edges of the sides and back, as well as the lower stretcher, using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools_Bottom 1 DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools_Bottom 2

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the dividers and cut the notches in each piece using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges as shown. Secure the dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers. Secure the spacers to the sides between the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools_Dividers 1 DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools_Dividers 2

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the slats. The two outer slats will have a notch cut in them to allow for the legs. Secure the slats to the lower stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The slats will be spaced approximately 1/2″ apart except for the slats next to the notched slats – they will be spaced 1/4″ from the outer slats.

DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools_Stool Slats 1 DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools_Slats

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the top as well as each end of the side trim pieces. Secure the side trim pieces to the top using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, then attach the front and back pieces.

Position the top on the cabinet so that the top overhangs by 1/2″ on all sides. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools_Top 1 DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools_Top 2

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the side pieces. Assemble the drawers as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Note that the center drawer is wider than the outer drawers!

Finish as desired. Install the cabinet pulls on the front of the drawers and apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the drawers to help them slide smoothly in the openings.

To Build the Stools:

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side aprons, and the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the aprons and the stretchers. Secure the aprons to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside faces of the aprons will be flush with the outside faces of the legs.

Secure the lower stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The lower stretchers are positioned 1/4″ back from the outside faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools_Stool Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the front and back aprons and stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the aprons to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside faces of the aprons will be flush with the outside faces of the legs.

Secure the lower stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The lower stretchers are positioned 1/4″ back from the outside faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools_Stool Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the slats. Cut the notches in the 1×3 pieces as shown. Note that the center stretchers are 1×2 pieces. Space the stretchers approximately 1/4″ apart. Secure the slats to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Table_Stool Slats 1 DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools_Stool Slats 2

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the stool seats. Apply edge banding to all four edges, if desired. The seat will overhang by 1/2″ on all sides. Secure the seat in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build an Elmore Console Table with Stools_Stool Seat

Finish as desired.

Awesome, right? This console table would not only be great extra seating for a dinner party but would be an excellent homework station for the kids! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build an Elmore Console Table with Stools? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com.




Another Piece Added to the Carlsbad Collection – the Chaise!

DIY Plans to Build a Carlsbad Chaise

I am still so excited about the Carlsbad collection! So far, we’ve covered the chair, the ottoman, and the sofa, and now we are covering the DIY plans to build a Carlsbad Chaise. The chaise is by far one of the easiest pieces to build and upholster, and I may be adding it my own collection! The chaise can be built and upholstered in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build a Carlsbad Chaise_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 3/4″ screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×4 at 4′
  • 1 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 3 – 1×8 at 8′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1×8 at 61-1/2″ – Base Frame
  • 2 – 1×8 at 31-1/2″ – Base Frame
  • 4 – 2×2 at 11-1/4″ – Legs
  • 3 – 1×8 at 30″ – Supports
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 31-1/2″ x 63″ – Deck
  • 1 – 1×6 at 31-1/2″ – Back Frame
  • 1 – 1×4 at 31-1/2″ – Back Frame
  • 3 – 1×6 at 14″ – Back Frame
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 15-5/8″ x 31-1/2″ – Back

For the Upholstery:

The entire frame will be covered with 1″ foam and fabric. The back cushion will be made with 4″ foam, and the seat will be made with 6″ foam. I like to purchase the high-density foam for cushions on eBay. A  1″ foam mattress topper will be much more economical to purchase for padding the frame.

The seat cushions will measure approximately 31-1/2″ x 57-1/4″ and the back cushions will measure approximately 19″ x 31-1/2″. I have written a tutorial on how to make a basic box cushion that is easy to follow and requires minimal sewing skills.

  • Duct tape
  • Spray adhesive (I recommend 3M Super 77 – it is the best!)
  • 8 yards of 54″ wide drapery fabric, canvas, or cotton duck
  • 1 – Twin size 1″ foam mattress topper
  • 6″ foam at 31-1/2″ x 57-1/4″”
  • 4″ foam at 19″ x 31-1/2″
  • 2 – 48″ upholstery zippers or velcro
  • Contrasting thread
  • Stapler and staples (if you have a pneumatic stapler, that would be best!)
  • Upholstery nails or decorative gimp (trim)

DIY Plans to Build a Carlsbad Chaise

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carlsbad Chaise_Frame

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the legs. Secure the legs to each corner of the frame using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws from the outside of the frame into the legs. The top of one end of the legs will be flush with the top of the frame.

DIY Plans to Build a Carlsbad Chaise_Legs

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carlsbad Chaise_Supports

Step Four

Cut the piece for the deck. Secure to the top of the frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. Make sure to pre-drill the holes – this will keep the frame from cracking or splitting!

DIY Plans to Build a Carlsbad Chaise_Deck

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the sides of the back. Cut the angle using a jigsaw, a bandsaw, or a tapering jig on a tablesaw. Drill pocket holes in each end.

DIY Plans to Build a Carlsbad Chaise_Back Frame 1

Step Six

Cut the remaining pieces for the back frame and assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Position the back frame on the back edge of the seat. Secure the frame to the seat using glue and 2-1/2″ screws. The screws will be positioned through the bottom of the frame into the back edge of the seat frame, and also through the front edge of the frame into the support closest to the back of the seat frame.

DIY Plans to Build a Carlsbad Chaise_Back Frame 2 DIY Plans to Build a Carlsbad Chaise_Back Frame 3

Step Seven

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back panel to the back frame using glue and 3/4″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Carlsbad Chaise_Back

Finish the legs as desired.

To Upholster the Chaise:

Cover all of the edges of the plywood using duct tape. This helps soften the sharp edges so that they don’t cut through the foam and upholstery during use.

Spray the entire frame with spray adhesive and apply the mattress topper covering the sides, the foot of the frame, and the top of the back. Trim the mattress topper as necessary.

DIY Plans to Build a Carlsbad Chaise_Foam

Cut a piece of fabric measuring 50″ wide by 66″ long. Cut another piece of fabric measuring 50″ wide by 32″ long. Cut a rectangle out of the lower edge of the fabric as shown leaving “tails” on each side. This portion will cover the part of the frame that the seat fabric will not cover. Stitch the center of the back fabric to the seat fabric as indicated in the drawing, leaving the “tails” and the remaining part of the seat fabric free.

DIY Plans to Build a Carlsbad Chaise_Back Fabric  Drape the fabric over the padded frame, securing in place with the staples. Pull the fabric taut and fold in the corners as necessary. The seam will be positioned where the back meets the seat.

DIY Plans to Build a Carlsbad Chaise_Fabric 1

Cut a piece of fabric at 25-1/2″ x 34-1/2″. Press a 1/2″ seam allowance in each edge. Secure to the back of the frame (to cover the opening) using staples. Cover the staples with decorative gimp.

DIY Plans to Build a Carlsbad Chaise_Fabric 2

To Make the Cushions:

Follow the tutorial on how to make a basic box cushion to make the cushion for the seat and the cushion for the back.

The chaise is really easy to build and the upholstery is even easier but hard to explain… So sorry, I did my best! If there are any questions about the DIY plans to build a Carlsbad Chaise or the upholstery, leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!