A Super-Easy Bench with Storage

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage Bench

This is the easiest of all benches to build… The DIY furniture plans to build an Easy Storage Bench feature a drawer under the seat with a shelf below. The bench is also easy to customize if you’d prefer a longer bench. The drawer front features an oval-shaped cut out to act as a handle, and the drawer box will be visible behind it.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage Bench-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-3/4″ brad nails
  • 1 set of 16″ drawer slides
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools Needed:

  • Table saw
  • Miter saw
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
  • 1″ Paddle bit or hole saw
  • Jigsaw
  • Sander
  • Drawer slide jig (optional)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×4 at 4′
  • 1 – 1×8 at 4′
  • 4 – 1×10 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1×10 at 17-1/4″ – Sides
  • 2 – 1×2 at 15-1/2″ – Lower Shelf Supports
  • 2 – 1×2 at 33-1/2″ – Lower Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×10 at 33-1/2″ – Lower Shelf
  • 2 – 1×10 at 33-1/2″ – Drawer Shelf
  • 2 – 1×2 at 15-1/2″ – Upper Shelf Supports
  • 2 – 1×2 at 33-1/2″ – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×10 at 36″ – Top
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 6-3/4″ x 34-1/4″ – Back
  • 2 – 1×4 at 16″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1×4 at 31″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 15″ x 31-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 1 – 1×8 (ripped to 5-3/4″ wide) at 33-1/4″ – Drawer Front

 

 

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage BenchClick on the drawings for a larger view.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the sides. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes along on long edge of two of the pieces. Secure the pieces with pocket holes to the pieces without pocket holes using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage Bench-Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the lower shelf supports. Secure the supports to the lower end of the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage Bench-Lower Shelf Supports

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers. Secure the lower stretchers to the lower shelf supports using glue and 1-1/4″ screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage Bench-Lower Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the lower shelf. Drill pocket holes along one long edge of one piece. Secure the pieces together using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the shelf to the shelf supports and the lower stretchers using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage Bench-Shelf

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the shelf and drill pocket holes along one long edge of one piece. Secure the pieces together using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Drill pocket holes in the side edges and secure the shelf to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage Bench-Drawer Shelf

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the upper shelf supports. Secure the supports to the upper end of the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ screws.

Secure the upper stretchers to the ends of the upper shelf supports using glue and 1-1/4″ screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage Bench-Top Supports

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage Bench-Top Stretchers

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the top and drill pocket holes along one long edge of one piece. Secure the pieces together using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the top to the sides, supports and stretchers using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails. The top will overhang by 1/2″ at the sides.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage Bench-Top

 

Step Eight

Cut the piece for the back of the drawer section. Secure the back in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage Bench-Back

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box front and back pieces on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage Bench-Drawer 1

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage Bench-Drawer 2

Step Ten

Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage Bench-Drawer 3

Step Eleven

Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box front to the drawer box sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage Bench-Drawer 4

Step Twelve

Cut the piece for the drawer front. Mark the position of the handle and drill the 1″ holes using a hole saw or paddle bit. Shim the drawer front in the opening and secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Open the drawer and secure the drawer front from the inside using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Easy Storage Bench-Drawer Front

Finish as desired.

Before adding the drawer front, the center front of the drawer box can be painted a different color so that it shows where the handle on the drawer front is located! Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build an Easy Storage Bench? Leave a comment below!




A Beautiful Chair for the Outdoors

DIY Plans to Build a Quinn Outdoor Chair

Just because we’re getting closer to the end of summer doesn’t mean fabulous chairs for the outdoors can’t be built! The DIY plans to build a Quinn Outdoor Chair feature a slatted seat and back, with separate frames for each that are screwed to the side assemblies. This is a really easy plan (the only angles cut are in the back legs) and several can be built in a weekend! (I recommend cedar or treated pine for the lumber!)

DIY Plans to Build a Quinn Outdoor Chair_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws (for outdoor use)
  • 1-1/2″ screws (for outdoor use)
  • Wood glue (for outdoor use)
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 3 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×6 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1×3 at 28″ – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1×3 at 28-1/2″ – Back Legs
  • 2 – 1×2 at 24″ – Arms
  • 2 – 1×3 at 21-1/2″ – Seat Frame
  • 3 – 1×3 at 20-7/8″ – Seat Frame
  • 4 – 1×6 at 21-1/2″ – Seat Panks
  • 2 – 1×2 at 20″ – Back Frame
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18″ – Back Frame
  • 1 – 1×2 at 16-1/2″ – Back Frame
  • 3 – 1×6 at 21-1/2″ – Back Planks

DIY Plans to Build a Quinn Outdoor Chair

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the front legs, the back legs, and the arms. The edge of the arms will be flush with the inside of the legs on one side which will overhang the outside by 3/4″. Mark the position through the top of the arms for the legs and predrill the holes for the screws.

Cut a 5° angle in the top and bottom ends of the back legs. Secure the arm to the legs using glue and 1-1/2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Quinn Outdoor Chair_Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the seat frame. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the seat frame sides and the center support. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Quinn Outdoor Chair_Seat Frame 1

Step Three

Secure the seat frame to the legs using glue and 1-1/2″ screws through the frame into the legs. Two screws into each leg will be sufficient.

DIY Plans to Build a Quinn Outdoor Chair_Seat Frame 2

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the seat planks. There will be a 1/8″ gap between the planks. Secure the planks using glue and 1-1/2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Quinn Outdoor Chair_Seat Planks

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the back frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the top and bottom pieces as well as each end of the center support. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Quinn Outdoor Chair_Back Frame 1

Step Six

Position the back frame on the back legs and arms. The lower edge of the rear of the back frame will be flush with the back edge of the back leg, and will also be positioned 1-1/2″ away from the back edge of the arm. The back frame will rest at an approximate 5° angle.  Secure the frame to the back legs and arms using 1-1/2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Quinn Outdoor Chair_Back Frame 2

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the back planks. There will be a 3/4″ gap between the planks. Secure the planks to the back frame and the support using glue and 1-1/2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Quinn Outdoor Chair_Back Planks

Finish as desired.

A few of these chairs placed around an outdoor table or around a fire pit would be awesome for a get-together! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Quinn Outdoor Chair? Leave a comment below!




An Easy to Build Space-Saving Bench

DIY Plans to Build a Folding Bench

For sure, this plan is going on my to-build list… The DIY plans to build a Folding Bench are super-easy to construct, and feature a slatted seat and back. The bench is reminiscent of old style folding chairs, and is very easy to build!

DIY Plans to Build a Folding Bench_Copy

DIY Plans to Build a Folding Bench_Copy 2

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ screws
  • 4 – 1-1/2″ (or 40 mm) connector bolts with connecting nuts
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 6 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 7 – 1×3 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1×3 at 38-3/8″ – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1×2 at 48″ – Front Stretchers
  • 4 – 1×3 at 48″ – Back Slats
  • 2 – 1×3 at 27-1/2″ – Back Legs
  • 1 – 1×2 at 46-1/2″ – Back Stretcher
  • 5 – 1×2 at 16-1/2″ – Seat Frame
  • 3 – 1×2 at 45″ – Seat Frame & Seat Stop
  • 6 – 1×3 at 45″ – Seat Slats

DIY Plans to Build a Folding Bench

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the front legs. Cut a 25° angle in the bottom of each leg. Cut a slight arc in the top front edge of each piece, and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Drill 3/8″ holes in the positions shown in the drawing.

DIY Plans to Build a Folding Bench_Front Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Secure the stretchers inside the notches using glue and countersunk 1-1/2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Folding Bench_Front Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the back slats. Secure the slats to the back edge of the legs using countersunk 1-1/2″ screws. The slats are spaced approximately 3/4″ apart, and the top slat is flush with the top of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Folding Bench_Back Slats

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the back legs. Round over the top edge of each leg. The radius is 1-1/4″. Cut a 25° angle in the bottom edge of each leg. Cut the notch in the leg using a jigsaw. Drill 3/8″ holes in the positions shown in the drawing.

DIY Plans to Build a Folding Bench_Back Legs 1

Step Five

Cut the piece for the back stretcher and secure it in the notches using glue and countersunk 1-1/2″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Folding Bench_Back Legs 2

Step Six

Fasten the back leg assembly to the inside of the front legs using 1-1/2″ connector bolts. The bolts will be tightened with an Allen wrench on each side – not too tight, though!

DIY Plans to Build a Folding Bench_Back Legs 3

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the seat frame. Drill a 3/8″ hole in the outer side frame pieces as shown in the drawings.

With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. The pocket holes in the outer side frame pieces will straddle the hole. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Folding Bench_Seat Frame Side

DIY Plans to Build a Folding Bench_Seat 1

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Secure the slats to the frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/2″ screws. The slats will be spaced approximately 5/8″ apart.

DIY Plans to Build a Folding Bench_Seat 2

Step Nine

Cut the piece for the seat stop and cut a 25° bevel along one long edge. This piece is secured to the bottom of the seat frame and the beveled edge will rest against the upper front stretcher to keep the bench from sliding apart.

Secure the stop to the bottom of the seat frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/2″ screws with the bevel facing toward the back and also facing up (the longer edge of the bevel rests on the frame).

DIY Plans to Build a Folding Bench_Seat Stop 1

DIY Plans to Build a Folding Bench_Seat Stop 2

Step Ten

Fasten the seat to the back legs using a 1-1/2″ connector bolt.

DIY Plans to Build a Folding Bench_Seat 3

Finish as desired.

I am really excited to build this bench… I think it would be a fabulous addition to my back yard and I’m sure it will be to yours, too! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a folding bench? Leave a comment below!




A Fabulous Easy to Build Chair for the Outdoors

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair

This easy to build chair can actually be used indoors or outdoors. The DIY plans to build an X Leg Chair feature side frames with an X detail, a slatted seat, and a slatted back. This chair would be fabulous with cedar as the seat and back, with treated pine framing that can be painted once the lumber dries. Several of these chairs can be built in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws for outdoor use
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws for outdoor use
  • 1-1/4″ screws for outdoor use
  • 3″ screws for outdoor use
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 4 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 5 – 2×2 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 16-3/8″ – X Detail
  • 2 – 2×2 at 34-1/4″ – X Detail
  • 4 – 2×2 at 23-1/2″ – Side Framing
  • 4 – 2×2 at 29″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 22″ – Bracing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 22″ – Seat Framing
  • 5 – 1×2 at 23-1/2″ – Seat Framing
  • 2 – 1×2 at 20-3/4″ – Side Back
  • 13 – 1×3 at 20-1/2″ – Back Slats & Seat Slats

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the X detail. Cut the angles at 44° as indicated in the drawing. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble the X using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the side framing. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the side framing using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Insert the X detail securing in place using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_X 1

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_X 2

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Side Framing

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the bracing. The bracing will be secured between the two side frames at the top edge of the back and at the center of each X. The pieces can be secured using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws or countersunk 3″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Bracing

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the seat frame. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 pieces. Secure the 1×2 side pieces on end to the 2×2 pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the 1×2 support pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The side supports can be further secured to the side of the seat frame using countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. The bottom face of the supports will be flush with the bottom edge of the frame.

Secure the seat frame to the side frames using countersunk 3″ screws through the front and back legs into the seat frame. The seat frame will rest directly on the bracing piece between the X detail.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Seat Frame 1

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Seat Frame 2

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the side back. Cut a 5° angle in the lower edge of each piece and drill pocket holes in this edge treating the pieces as a left and a right. Secure the side back pieces to the seat frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The pieces will be positioned 2-1/2″ from the back edge of the seat frame and will rest on the upper bracing piece.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Back Side 1

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Back Side 2

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the back slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the slats to the side back pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws spacing the pieces 3/4″ apart. The front face of the slats will be flush with the front face of the side back pieces. The top edge of the top slat will be flush with the top edges of the side back.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Back Slats

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. The seat slats will be spaced 3/4″ apart and will be secured to the supports in the seat frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Seat Slats

Finish as desired.

The entire chair can also be built from plain untreated pine as long as it is used indoors or on a covered porch area. have any questions about the DIY plans to build an X Leg Chair? Leave a comment below!




A Fabulous Daybed for the Outdoors

DIY Plans to Build a Penn Outdoor Daybed

With Summer basically knocking on the door, most of us are thinking about outdoor furniture for entertaining or relaxing. The DIY plans to build a Penn Outdoor Daybed fit that bill perfectly! The seat, back, and sides are slatted making it easy for water to run off and not collect. The daybed requires a 4″ seat cushion and a 2″ back cushion, with optional throw pillows. This is a super easy build that can be constructed out of cedar or treated wood for outdoor use, or any other species for indoor use.

DIY Plans to Build a Penn Outdoor Daybed_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws (rated for outdoor use)
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws (rated for outdoor use)
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails (for outdoor use)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 12 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 5 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×4 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×4 at 38″ – Back Legs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 38″ – Front Legs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 25″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 24-11/16″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 24-5/16″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 24″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 23-11/16″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 23-5/16″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 1×3 at 23″ – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 1×3 at 72″ – Front & Back Aprons
  • 6 – 2×2 at 72″ – Back Framing
  • 2 – 1×3 (ripped to 1-3/4″ wide) at 23″ – Slat Supports
  • 3 – 1×3 (ripped to 1-3/4″ wide) at 24″ – Seat Supports
  • 7 – 1×3 at 69″ – Seat Slats

DIY Plans to Build a Penn Outdoor Daybed

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the 2×4 pieces to length for the back legs. Draw the legs onto the 2×4 pieces as shown in the drawing. Cut out the legs using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

DIY Plans to Build a Penn Outdoor Daybed_Back Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the front legs and the side framing. Each of the side framing pieces have a 5° angle cut in one edge. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces on the underside of each piece – this way the pocket holes will not have to be filled. Secure the framing pieces to the front and back legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side apron. Secure the apron to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front face of the apron pieces will be flush with the outside faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Penn Outdoor Daybed_Side Slats & Framing

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front and back aprons. Drill pocket holes in each end. Position the aprons so they are located 1/4″ back from the front and back faces of the legs. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Penn Outdoor Daybed_Front & Back Aprons

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the back framing. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the back framing pieces to the back legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face down and will not have to be filled.

DIY Plans to Build a Penn Outdoor Daybed_Back Slats

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the slat supports. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure each piece to the inside of the side aprons using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The bottom edge of each piece will be flush with the bottom of the side aprons.

DIY Plans to Build a Penn Outdoor Daybed_Slat Supports

Step Six

Cut the pieces for seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the front and back aprons using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Penn Outdoor Daybed_Seat Supports

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. The seat slats are spaced approximately 7/8″ apart. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the slats into the supports.

DIY Plans to Build a Penn Outdoor Daybed_Seat Slats

Finish as desired.

The cushions are easy to make using outdoor fabric and outdoor foam. Previously, I wrote a post on how to make a basic box cushion that may be helpful. Otherwise, cushions measuring 72″ long x 24″ wide x 4″ deep for the seats and 72″ long x 20″ wide x 2″ deep can be used. Three separate cushions would also be a good choice. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Penn Outdoor Daybed? Leave a comment below!




A Beautiful Chair with Curved Back Legs

DIY Plans to Build the Anna Chair

I love the curve of the back legs on this chair! The DIY plans to build an Anna Chair featured gorgeously curved legs (easy to make with the included templates) and tapered front legs. In the future, I will include an option to add an upholstered seat with an Elasbelt webbed foundation. This chair is made to be used with a 2″ thick cushion. As always, this chair is a quick and easy build that can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build an Anna Chair_Copy

DSCF3033 copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Metal corner braces
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 4′
  • 1 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 2×6 at 6′
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×2 at 16″ – Front Legs
  • 2 – 2×6 at 36″ – Back Legs
  • 2 – 1×3 at 16″ – Front & Back Aprons
  • 2 – 1×3 at 18-1/8″ – Side Aprons
  • 3 – 2×2 at 16″ – Back
  • 4 – 1×2 at 5″ – Corner Braces
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19″ x 21-1/8″ – Seat

DIY Plans to Build an Anna Chair

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the front legs. Cut the taper using a tapering jig on the table saw or a jigsaw.

Cut the piece for the front apron. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the apron piece. Secure the apron to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The tapers on the legs will face toward the back legs. The apron will be positioned 1/4″ back from the front face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build an Anna Chair_Front Leg

DIY Plans to Build an Anna Chair_Front Apron

Step Two

Print the templates. Align the registration marks and tape the sheets together, then cut out the template. Secure the two 2×6 pieces together using screws or hot glue (not wood glue!) then trace the template. Draw a line across the pieces at 16″ from the bottom of the leg. Cut out the legs using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Thoroughly sand the legs before separating the pieces trying to keep the pencil mark drawn beforehand in place. Transfer the pencil mark to the other leg. This mark is where the top of the back apron will be positioned.

DIY Plans to Build an Anna Chair_Back Leg

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the back apron and back framing. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron. Secure the apron to the back legs at the pencil mark (16″ up from the bottom of the leg). The apron will be positioned 1/4″ back from the back face of the legs.

Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the back pieces. Secure the pieces as shown to the back legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The front face of the back pieces will be flush with the front faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build an Anna Chair_Back Framing

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the side aprons. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the aprons to the front and the back legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The aprons will be positioned 1/4″ back from the side faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build an Anna Chair_Side Aprons

Step Five

Secure the corner braces to the inside of the legs at the lower edges of the aprons. Corner braces can also be cut from scrap pieces of 1×2 material with a 45° miter in each end then secured using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build an Anna Chair_Corner Braces

Step Six

Cut the piece for the seat and cut the notches with a jigsaw. Secure the seat to the aprons using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build an Anna Chair_Seat 1

DIY Plans to Build an Anna Chair_Seat 2

Finish as desired.

The curved legs are what make this chair so fabulous – at least in my opinion! The templates are easy to use, and the legs are easy to cut. Have any questions on the DIY plans to build an Anna Chair? Leave a comment below!