A Plain Headboard to Customize to Fit Your Style

DIY Plans to Build a Monica Sideboard

Are you in the market for a new headboard? The DIY plans to build a Monica Headboard are plain and simple – the detail and finishing are entirely up to you! The headboard can be stenciled, painted, stained, decoupaged, upholstered, or even made beautiful with the glue-resist technique! A router and a decorative bit will be used to create the upper trim. The plans are written for a queen headboard but other sizes can be made with just a few adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Monica Headboard_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

For a Queen sized headboard:

  • 1 – 1×4 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×6 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×4 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×4 at 51-1/4″ – Legs
  • 1 – 2×4 at 58″ – Lower Stretcher
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 32″ x 58″ – Headboard Panel
  • 1 – 1×4 at 65″ – Top Trim
  • 1 – 1 x at 1″ wide (cut from 1×6) at 65″ – Trim
  • 1 – 1x at 2-1/4″ wide (cut from 1×6) at 65″ – Trim

DIY Plans to Build a Monica Headboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, stretcher, and panel. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher. Secure the stretcher to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in the side edges of the panel. Secure the panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front face of the panel will be flush with the front face of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Monica Headboard_Panel & Stretcher

Step Two

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the top of the legs and the panel using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Monica Headboard_Top

Step Three

Cut the 1×6 board to ” long. Using the router and a decorative bit of your choice, cut a decorative edge on each long side of the board. Rip a 1″ wide piece off of the 1×6 for one of the trim pieces, then rip the remaining piece to 2-1/4″ wide. See this post for more information on making your own trim!

Secure the wider trim to the front of the headboard under the top using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails, then layer the narrower piece on top.

DIY Plans to Build a Monica Headboard_Header Trim

Finish as desired.Secure the headboard to the wall or the bed frame. If securing the headboard to the bed frame, additional holes may have to be drilled.

To make the headboard wider for a king size, add 16″ in length to the top, trim, stretcher, and the length of the panel. To make the headboard narrower for a full size bed, subtract 6″ in length from the top, trim, stretcher, and the length of the panel. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Monica Headboard? Leave a comment below!




An Easy to Build Headboard Using Unexpected Pieces

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors

I scored a bunch of old cabinet doors at my local Habitat for Humanity ReStore for a dollar each. They are in really great condition and since I am in the process of updating my bedroom, I thought I’d use them for a nifty project… Let me show you how to build a headboard with old cabinet doors!

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors DSCF2254 copy

My headboard looks quite small for my bed – the bed is king-size and is on a wall with two windows so the headboard had to be made to fit between the windows. The headboard can be made for any size bed so there are no overall dimensions given. If I change my mind on the headboard down the road, it will actually be the perfect size for a full-size bed! The headboard is also made to be light and decorative, not thick and chunky. It does not project past the window sills in my room and it is attached to the wall. The bed is then butted up against the wall.

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors DSCF2292

Materials:

  • 2 or 3 – Old cabinet doors measuring the same size (a different style on each would be awesome as long as the overall size is the same!)
  • 1×4 & 1×6 lumber (the number of boards will depend on the size of the headboard and the size of the cabinet doors)
  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 12 – 3/4″ x 3″ mending plates with screws
  • Router with a decorative bit
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper
  • Stain and sealer, or paint

Here are the standard widths of mattresses for quick reference:

  • Twin – 39″
  • Full – 54″
  • Queen – 60″
  • King – 76″

The cabinet doors I used measure 16-1/2″ x 21-1/2″. The overall height of my headboard is 45″ and the width is 56″ to fit between the two windows. From the bottom of the headboard legs to the bottom of the headboard panel is 20″. The upper framing piece for the headboard is wider than the lower framing piece by 3/4″ to allow for the trim I wanted to add and to keep the framing pieces balanced. I know that the headboard is narrower than the bed – if I made the headboard to fit the width of the bed, it would block the windows which is not a good thing in the event of an emergency!

Determine the overall height and width of the headboard. Measure the height of the bed from the floor to just below the top of the mattress. Measure the cabinet doors and subtract the height (because the doors will be positioned lengthwise) of both doors from the overall width of the headboard.

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors

Measure the height of the doors. Subtract the width (the shorter measurement – remember, the doors will be laying on their sides!) of the doors plus 20-3/4″ from the overall height of the headboard. The remaining amount will be filled in by boards that will frame the doors. For example, I wanted my headboard to measure 45″ tall and my cabinet doors measured 16-1/2″ at the shorter edges. I subtracted 16-1/2″ plus 20-3/4″ from the height of the headboard which equaled 7-3/4″. I cut boards equal to 7-3/4″ wide (one at 3-1/2″ and one at 4-1/4″) for the frame.

I used 1×6 boards for the legs and sides of the frame. I cut these pieces at 44-1/4″. The legs can also be cut from narrower lumber, if desired. The center piece is a 1×6 ripped to 4″ wide. I assembled the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors DSCF1793

The edges of the doors I used were relatively thin so I could not drill pocket holes in the edges of the doors to secure them in the frame. I used 3/4″ x 3″ metal mending brackets to secure the doors in place on the reverse side. the back faces of the doors will be flush with the back face of the frame.

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors DSCF1790

I made the trim for the top of the headboard by using a router with a decorative bit. I routed both edges of a 1×6 board that was cut to 56″ long. I used my table saw to cut one piece of the trim at 2-1/4″ wide and the other cut at 3/4″ wide. The wider trim piece was secured to the top of the frame with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. (The routed edge faces down). The narrower trim piece is secured under the top trim to the upper part of the headboard frame.

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors DSCF1791

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors DSCF1792

Since I decided to paint the headboard, I used paintable caulk to fill any gaps between the doors and the frame.

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors DSCF2259

The headboard is secured to the wall studs with screws. (Sorry – it is so hard to photograph it indoors because of the windows!)

How to Build a Headboard with Old Cabinet Doors DSCF2290

I love it! It fits the space perfectly and really looks nice between the windows. The headboard was very easy to construct and I had it assembled in a day. I think it would look fabulous with three doors in a row or maybe even four narrow doors so that it looks as if it has four panels! If there are any questions about how to build a headboard using old doors, leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com! If you decide to build your own, I would love to see photos!

Sharing with: My Repurposed Life




Build an August Queen Bed

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed

This is a plain, simple, and inexpensive bed. The DIY plans to build an August Queen bed are a platform style, which eliminates the need for box springs. (Box springs can be used but the bed will sit really high!) The plans are written for a queen size and easy alterations can be made for Full or King.

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 14 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 3 – 1×6 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 5 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×6 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×8 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×2 at 33″ – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – 2×2 at 59″ – Headboard Frame
  • 1 – 2×2 at 62″ – Headboard Frame
  • 1 – 2×6 at 59″ – Headboard Frame
  • 3 – 1×2 at 18″ – Headboard Frame
  • 3 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 58″ – Headboard Front
  • 2 – 2×2 at 13-1/2″ – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – 2×2 at 62″ – Footboard Frame
  • 1 – 2×6 at 59″ – Footboard
  • 3 – 2×8 (ripped to 7″ wide) at 79″ – Rails
  • 4 – 1×2 at 13″ – Center Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 79″ – Slat Supports
  • 40 – 1×3 at 28-3/4″ – Slats

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the headboard. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in one end of each leg, both ends of the 59″ frame piece, and each end plus one long edge of the 2×6 piece. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 pieces. Secure the 1×2 pieces to the 2×2 pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the 1×2 pieces will be flush with the back faces of the frame.

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Headboard 1

Step Two

Cut the 1×6 pieces (ripped to 4″ wide) for the headboard front. Secure to the 1×2 frame pieces as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. The screws can be placed through the front of the pieces or through the 1×2 pieces into the back of the front headboard pieces.

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Headboard 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the footboard. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in one end of the legs and both ends as well as one long edge of the 2×6 piece. Assemble the footboard using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Footboard

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the rails and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the headboard and footboard as shown using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue – the bed may have to be disassembled someday!

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Rails

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the center legs. Secure the legs to each side of the center rail (locating them 2-1/4″ down from the top edge of the center rail) using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Center Legs

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the slat supports. Secure to the inside of each of the side rails as well as each side of the center rail using countersunk 2-1/2″ screws. The supports will be positioned 3/4″ down from the top edge of the rails. DO NOT use glue!

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Slat Supports

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the slats. Secure to the slat supports (spacing them approximately 1-1/2″ apart) using countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. DO NOT use glue!

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Slats

Finish as desired!

To change the width of the bed for Full or King, just change the length of all of the horizontal pieces – the headboard and footboard frames, as well as the slats. So easy! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build an August Queen bed? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Timberland Bed

Build a Fabulous Bed with the Timberland Queen Bed Plans!

I like the rustic simplicity of this bed – plain in style and construction. The Timberland queen bed plans are constructed with planked 1×10 lumber and the upper canopy frame is completely optional – the legs for the headboard and footboard can be cut off, if desired! The plans are drawn for a queen bed. Adjustments for larger or smaller mattresses are as easy as changing the length of the boards.

timberland queen bed plans-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • Key hole bed rail brackets (like these)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 4′
  • 3 – 1×2 at 8′
  • x – 1×3 at 6′
  • 6 – 1×10 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×10 at 8′
  • 4 – 3×3 posts at 8′ *

*3×3 posts can be made by ripping 4×4 posts down on the table saw, or by laminating 2 – 2x4s together (for each post) and ripping on the table saw.

Cut List:

  • 4 – 3×3 posts at 86″ – Legs
  • 6 – 1×10 at 58″ – Headboard and Footboard
  • 2  -1×10 at 80″ – Side Rails
  • 2 – 1×2 at 77″ – Slat Supports
  • 1 – 1×2 at 81-1/4″ – Center Slat Support
  • 2 – 1×2 at 10″ – Center Slat Support Legs
  • 2 – 1×3 at 58″ – Upper Frame
  • 2 – 1×3 at 80″ – Upper Frame
  • 12 – 1×3 at 60-1/2″ – Slats

 

timberland queen bed plans

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs, the headboard, and the footboard. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×10 pieces. Attach to the legs as shown to create the headboard and the footboard using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The pieces are positioned 1/2″ back from the outside face of the legs.

timberland queen bed plans-HeadFoot

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the side rails and slat supports. Attach the slat supports to the bottom edge of each side rail using glue and 1-1/4″ screws. The bottoms of the pieces will be flush with each other. Install the bed rail brackets according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. The hardware will be positioned so it is flush with the inside face of the legs which should make it 1/2″ in from the outside face of the legs.

timberland queen bed plans-Side Rails

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the upper frame and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Glue can be used on the shorter pieces at the headboard and footboard but DO NOT use glue on the longer pieces so the bed can be dismantled!

timberland queen bed plans-Upper Frame

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the center support. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer piece, and one end only of the legs. Secure the legs to the longer piece using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the entire assembly at the lower center of the headboard and the footboard using 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue!

timberland queen bed plans-Support

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the slats. Space the slats approximately 2-1/2″ apart and secure them to the supports using 1-1/4″ screws. DO NOT use glue!

timberland queen bed plans-Slats

Finish as desired!

 

These are the perfect plans for those new to woodworking! The bed would look great with a weathered grey finish or even painted a bright color. Have questions about the Timberland queen bed plans? Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

Disclaimer:

This post contains a link to a site of which I am an affiliate. What that means is if the think is clicked and a purchase is made, I receive a commission on that purchase!




Build a Riva Queen Bed

DIY Plans to Build the Trendy Riva Bed Fit for a Queen!

In my quest to add more bed plans to the site, I stumbled upon the Riva Queen Bed. I like the look of this bed with the simple cutouts in the headboard and think it would be fabulous finished with a dark stain! The plans can also be scaled down for a full size or scaled up for a king size by altering the dimensions of the slats, footboard, and vertical headboard pieces.

riva queen bed plans_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • Bed rail hardware (like these from Rockler!)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  •  2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 16 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 3 – 1×4 at 6′
  • 3 – 1×8 at 8′
  • 2 scraps of 2×2 measuring 8-3/4″ each
  • 2 – 2×4 at 6′
  • 1 sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×4 at 15-1/2″ – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – 1×8 at 55″ – Footboard Panel
  • 3 – 1×4 at 55″ – Headboard
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14″ x 55″ – Headboard Panel
  • 3 – 1×8 at 5″ – Headboard
  • 2 – 2×4 at 45″ – Headboard Legs
  • 2 – 1×8 at 80-1/2″ – Side Rails
  • 2 – 1×2 at 80-1/2″ – Slat Supports
  • 16 – 1×3 at 60-1/2″ – Slats
  • 1 – 1×3 at 77-1/2″ – Center Slat Support
  • 2 – 2×2 at 8-3/4″ – Center Support Legs

riva queen bed plans

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the footboard. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the footboard panel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panel will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

 riva queen bed plans_Footboard

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the headboard. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown, then assemble using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Attach the headboard to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The front face of the headboard will be flush with the front face of the legs.

 riva queen bed plans_Headboard 1

riva queen bed plans_Headboard 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the side rails and the side rail supports. Attach the supports to the rails using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

 riva queen bed plans_Side Rails

Step Four

Install the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. I recommend this hardware because I’ve used it before – it is easy to install and sturdy! Attach the rails to the headboard and footboard.

riva queen bed plans_Rail Hardware

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the slats. Attach the slats to the slat supports using 1-1/4″ screws spacing them approximately 2-1/2″ apart. Do not use glue – the bed may have to be disassembled someday!

 riva queen bed plans_Slats

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the center slat support and the legs. Attach the legs to the support, then secure using glue and 2-1/2″ screws through the support into the legs. Attach the center supports to the slats using 1-1/4″ screws through the slats into the support.

 riva queen bed plans_Center Slat Support

Finish as desired!

One of the first projects I ever built was a bed. It was so simple and I still love it! I hope you will use these Riva queen bed plans to construct a bed for yourself – and love it!




Plans for a Bed with a Stunning Headboard

Build a Bed with a Diagonal Slatted Headboard

These are the first DIY plans for a bed I have on the site! I really like this style, plus it would be cheap and easy to build a bed with a diagonal slatted headboard. These particular plans are for a queen size. Adjusting the size up for a King or down for a Full is just a matter of altering the diagonal slats in the headboard as well as adjusting the length of the footboard. Easy peasy, right? Of course, if you need help with the adjustment send me an email at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

build bed diagonal slatted headboard_copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • Bed rail brackets (like these)
  • 2 – 1-1/2″ angle brackets
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies

Lumber:

  • 10 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 23 – 1×3 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×10 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×10 at 8′
  • 5 – 2×2 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×2 at 56″ – Headboard Legs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 59″ – Headboard Frame
  • 1 – 1×10 (ripped to 8″ wide) at 59″ – Headboard Frame
  • 1 – 2×3 at 59″ – Headboard Frame
  • 4 – 1×2 at 7-1/16″ – Headboard Diagonal Slats
  • 4 – 1×2 at 13-1/16″ – Headboard Diagonal Slats
  • 4 – 1×2 at 19-1/16″ – Headboard Diagonal Slats
  • 12 – 1×2 at 20-9/16″ – Headboard Diagonal Slats
  • 2 – 1×2 at 28-13/16″ – Horizontal Slats
  • 2 – 1×2 at 21-9/16″ – Horizontal Slats
  • 2 – 1×2 at 14-5/16″ – Horizontal Slats
  • 2 – 2×2 at 16-1/2″ – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – 2×2 at 62″ – Footboard Frame
  • 1 – 1×8 (ripped to 6-1/2″ wide) at 59″ – Footboard Panel
  • 2 – 1×10 (ripped to 8″ wide) at 81″ – Side Rails
  • 2 – 1×2 at 81″ – Slat Supports
  • 1 – 2×2 at 81″ – Slat Support
  • 2 – 2×2 at 10″ – Slat Support Legs
  • 23 – 1×3 at 60-1/2″ – Slats

 build bed diagonal slatted headboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the footboard. Drill pocket holes in one end of each of the legs. Attach the top rail using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of the footboard panel. Attach to the legs and top rail using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the legs and rail.

diy bed plans - diagonal QBed_Footboard

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the headboard frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the top rail, the 2×2 stretcher, the 2×3 stretcher, and the 8″ stretcher. Position the pieces as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the 8″ stretcher into the legs, and 2-1/2″ screws through the top rail and 2×3 stretcher into the legs. Make sure the pocket hole jig is set for the appropriate material thickness!

diy bed plans - diagonal QBed_Headboard 1

Step Three

All angles in the diagonal slat pieces for the headboard are cut at 45 degrees. Cut each piece as shown. Please note that adjustments may have to be made. check for fit. Drill pocket holes (one in each end may also be sufficient, provided that glue is used to secure the pieces in place) in each end, then secure to the headboard frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Start with the piece that will extend from the corner of the frame. Space the other pieces 2-1/8″ in either direction of this one.

Cut the pieces for the horizontal slat pieces and cut 45 degree miters in each end. Check for fit. Drill pocket holes (one in each end may also be sufficient, provided that glue is used to secure the pieces in place) in each end, then secure to the diagonal slat pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws at the spacing indicated.

diy bed plans - diagonal QBed_Headboard 2

diy bed plans - diagonal QBed_Headboard 3

 diy bed plans - diagonal QBed_Headboard 4

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the side rails and the slat supports. Secure the slat supports to the side rails using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. The bottom edge of the support will be flush with the bottom edge of the side rail.

Install the bed rail brackets according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Attach the side rails to the headboard and footboard. 

diy bed plans - diagonal QBed_Side Rails

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the slat support and slat support legs. Drill pocket holes in one end only of each piece. Attach the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Attach the support to the center of the footboard panel using two 1-1/2″ angle brackets. Attach the other end to the 2×3 stretcher on the headboard using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue!

diy bed plans - diagonal QBed_Support

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the slats. Position then along the length of the supports with approximately 1″ spacing and secure using countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. Do not use glue! (The bed may have to be disassembled someday!) 

diy bed plans - diagonal QBed_Slats

Finish as desired!

Well, how is that for the first set of DIY bed plans? I have ideas for many more beds, so stay tuned! I really like this plan and I may build a bed with a diagonal slatted headboard for myself! Any questions? Contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!