A Fabulous Ladder for Decoration and Display

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder

Let me start off by saying that this ladder is for decorative purposes only – it is not to stand on! The DIY plans to build a Decorative Ladder feature round rungs made from dowel rods, and 2x lumber legs. The ladder also has an angle cut into the bottom of each leg to allow it to lean back against a wall. This is a super-quick and easy project that can be completed in a couple of hours!

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Featured

Materials:

  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • 1″ Forstner bit
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 4 – 1″ round dowels at 4′
  • 2 – 2×3 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×3 at 7′ – Legs
  • 6 – 1″ round dowels at 22″- Rungs

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs to length and cut a 5° angle in one end of each piece. Treating each leg as a left and a right (so the angles face the same way), mark the position for the holes to hold the dowels. The holes are spaced 12″ apart on center along the centerline of the legs. Drill a 1/2″ deep hole at each mark with the 1″ Forstner bit.

To make it easier to pre-drill the holes for the screws, drill a hole through the center of each hole for the dowels through to the outside of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Sides

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Holes

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Countersunk Holes

Step Two

Cut the pieces of dowel to length. Working with one dowel at a time, apply glue to one of the larger holes and insert a dowel. From the outside through the smaller holes drilled through the larger holes, drill into the end of the dowel to insert a screw, then drive the screws through the leg into the dowel. Repeat for each dowel.

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Rungs

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Rungs Photo

Step Three

Lay the leg with the dowels already secured to it on a flat surface. Apply glue to the holes of the remaining leg, then lay the leg on top of the open end of the dowels and fit each dowel into the holes. Tap into place with a rubber mallet. Check the ladder for square, then drive the screws through the holes in the remaining leg into the ends of the dowels.

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Finished

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Finished 2

Finish as desired.

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Finished 3

DIY Plans to Build a Decorative Ladder_Finished 4

The ladder is a great way to store blankets in a living room, or a bedroom. It would also look great in a bathroom with towels draped over the rungs! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Decorative Ladder? Leave a comment below!




Organize and Display Spice Jars with a Mini Spice Rack

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack

Since I’ve really been into clean eating and cooking, I needed a way to keep my spices neatly organized. I found some tiny Mason jars at Target that were perfect for spices and I needed a a way to store them. I created the DIY furniture plans to build a Mini Spice Rack specifically for the tiny jars and the plan is also customizable for other sized jars by just changing the width, height and depth. I used decorative punched aluminum on the back and metal ribbon (purchased from Hobby Lobby) on the front to act as retainers. This is an inexpensive build that costs very little and can be completed in a couple of hours.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Featured

 

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 5/8″ staples
  • Decorative punched aluminum
  • Spray paint
  • Metal ribbon and upholstery tacks (1/4″ x 1″ strips of wood can also be used)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools needed:

  • Miter saw or jigsaw
  • Pneumatic brad nailer/stapler with compressor
  • Sander
  • Metal Snips

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1/2″ x 2-1/2″ x 2′ craft boards
  • 3 – 1/2″ x 1″ x 1″ craft boards (wood rulers would be a great choice!)

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1/2″ x 2-1/2″ craft boards at 10-1/2″ – Top, Bottom & Shelves
  • 2 – 1/2″ x 2-1/2″ craft boards at 12-1/2″ – Sides
  • 3 – 1/4″ x 1″ craft boards at 11-1/2″ – Front Retainers*

(* = if not using metal ribbon)

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut all of the pieces to length. Thoroughly sand each board.

Step Two

Assemble the spice rack using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The top, bottom and shelves are spaced 3-1/2″ apart.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Rack

Step Three

Cut the decorative aluminum to fit the back. I raided my scraps and did not have a piece that was big enough so I used two pieces with the join behind one of the shelves. Secure the aluminum to the back using 5/8″ staples (I used a pneumatic stapler). 1/4″ plywood can also be used.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Back

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Punched Aluminum

Step Four

Paint the spice rack and the retainers as desired. I used white spray paint and did not paint the retainer pieces.

Step Five

Secure the retainer pieces to the front of the shelves and bottom. If using 1/4″ wood, use glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails and if using metal ribbon, use upholstery tacks.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Retainers

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Metal Ribbon Retainers

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Retainer Close Up

The little jars I used measure 2″ wide by 2-1/2″ tall, and they have a chalkboard label on the top.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Jars

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Mini Spice Rack - Completed

If resizing the plan to fit different jars or bottles, adjust the length of the shelves if necessary, and lengthen the sides to accommodate the height. For example, if the jars being used are 4″ tall, the sides will be lengthened by 4-1/2″ and the shelves will be spaced at 5″. If there are any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Mini Spice Rack, leave a comment below!




A Beautiful Lamp with a Walnut Base

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood

I love making and refurbishing lamps.  I love walnut wood, too! I had a few scraps of PureBond walnut plywood left over from one of the projects I create for them and decided that I really, really needed a lamp with a walnut base. Constructing a lamp base from the DIY plans to build a lamp base with plywood are super-easy. The plywood is joined together using 45° bevels in the edges of the pieces. It sounds hard but really isn’t!

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Finished

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)
  • 1 – 1/4″ lamp pipe at 15-1/2″
  • 1 – replacement lamp cord with plug
  • 3 – 1/4″ lamp nuts
  • 1 – washer to fit the pipe
  • 1 – candelabra socket cover at 4″
  • 2 – check rings to fit on the ends of the socket cover
  • Lamp socket
  • Lamp shade of your choice

Lumber:

  • 1 – 2’x 2′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1/2″ plywood at 5″ x 12″ – Base Sides
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 5″ square – Base Top
  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 4″ square – Base Bottom

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

To Build the Lamp Base:

Cut all of the plywood pieces to size. I used the table saw with the blade set at 45° to cut the bevels in each of the long ends of the base sides, as well as the top edge of each piece. A router with a 45° chamfer bit can also be used.

Cut 45° bevels in all four edges of the top. I used a compound miter saw to do this but a router with a 45° chamfer bit can also be used.

 Sorry for the “shady” photos… It is that time of year where my work table in partially shaded!

Lay the side pieces on a flat surface side by side with the bevels facing down. Place at least two or three rows of masking tape across the pieces with the ends of the tape extending past each side piece.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Apply Tape

Carefully flip the pieces over and apply glue to each bevel. Fold the pieces on each other creating a box and secure the tape. Let the piece dry.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Apply Glue

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Glued

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Taped Assembly

Mark the center of the top and bottom pieces, and drill a hole in each piece large enough for the lamp pipe to fit through. (This is not shown in the photos.)

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Top & Bottom

Fit the beveled top into the top of the base, trimming as necessary. Spread glue on the bevels, then position the top, securing it in place with masking tape. Let the piece dry.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Top

Place the bottom piece inside the bottom positioning it approximately 1″ up from the bottom. Secure the piece in place with 1-1/4″ brad nails through the sides. I did not photograph this step but I’m sure you get the idea!

Drill a hole in the lower back side of the base below the bottom. This is so the cord will not interfere with the bottom of the lamp.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Cord Hole

Thoroughly sand the base and fill any holes or gaps with wood filler. Stain and seal the base as desired.

Decorate the base with a stencil and paint, if you’d like… I cut a stencil out of vinyl then painted it with metallic white paint. A woodburning tool could be used to create a design (before staining) or even the glue-resist technique can be used.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Stencil

To Install and Wire the Lamp:

Thread the washer and one of the nuts onto the lamp pipe, then thread the pipe through the hole in the bottom and through the hole in the top. Place a check ring (face down) over the pipe, then thread a second nut on the pipe. The check rings will “frame” the socket cover helping to keep it in place.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Pipe Bottom

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Check Ring

Cover the socket cover with scrapbooking paper or spray paint the piece. This is where I like to have fun and add a pop of color! Thread the cover on the pipe, then add the second check ring (face down) and the remaining nut.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Socket Cover

Thread the wiring through the hole in the lower edge of the base, then through the pipe and pull it out of the top. Thread the socket cap onto the pipe. Tie an underwriter’s knot (which helps keep the cord from being yanked out of the socket) and attach the wiring to the socket terminals. Wrap the wiring in the same direction as the screw will tighten. Install the socket’s cover.

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Socket Wiring

Install the lamp shade of your choice! Gorgeous!

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Finished

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Night Left

DIY Plans to Build a Lamp Base with Plywood_Night Right

What do you think? The lamp can be constructed out of any species of wood like oak, cherry, even cedar! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a lamp base with plywood? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




How to Make a Framed Multi Organizer

How to Make a Framed Multi Organizer

My daughter has a small room and there is not enough space for her stuff! As we transition her room from “tween” to “teen”, I wanted to make things for her that reflect her style yet keep her room clutter-free – at least a little!

This framed multi organizer can be customized any number of ways. It can be for jewelry only with three mirrors and three organizer panels, or for “office” organizing with more magnetic and cork panels, the choice is up to you!

I chose to use one mirror, two punched aluminum panels (for earrings & necklaces), one corkboard, and two magnetic boards.

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0608 copy

Materials:

  • 2 – 1×2 lumber at 8′
  • Pocket hole jig & 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • Drill
  • Router with 3/8″ rabbeting bit
  • Sander & sandpaper in 80, 120, 220 grits
  • Finishing supplies
  • 1 – 12″ x 12″ mirror
  • 1 – 12″ x 12″ cork panel
  • 2 – 12″ x 12″ piece of hardware mesh or punched aluminum
  • 2 – 12″ x 12″ pieces of sheet metal
  • 4 – 12″ x 12″ pieces of cardboard
  • 3 – drawer knobs
  • Fabric of your choice
  • Spray adhesive
  • Framing tab gun or small nails

Start by cutting the pieces of lumber for the frame. Assemble the frame as shown (click on the picture to make it larger) using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Framed Multi Organizer Jewelry Display

Use the router to cut a rabbet in each inner frame, then thoroughly sand the frame starting with 80 grit, then 120 grit, and finally with 220 grit. Fill any holes or imperfections with filler, as desired.

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0596

Paint or stain. I chose a white paint for this project. Apply any sealer as desired. (The kitty, Busy, was inspecting my work.)

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0601

I primed the punched aluminum sheets with Rust-Oleum’s Rusty Metal Primer (the best, in my opinion, for priming metal!) then painted them with spray paint – Valspar in Frosty Berry. I also sprayed the sheet metal with spray adhesive and applied the fabric over it.

I started with the cork panel and added a piece of the cardboard behind it for stability. I secured the panels in place with the framing tab gun. A stapler would work, also, to secure the panels in place. The punched aluminum panels do not need cardboard behind them.

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0602

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0603

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0604

I added drawer knobs to one of the punched aluminum panels to hang necklaces. I was able to screw the post of the knob into one of the holes then attach a washer and nut behind it. I cut off the remaining part of the post with bolt cutters as close to the nut as I could get.

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0605

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0606

Attach to the wall with screws through the frame into the wall studs. Or attach soda can tabs to the back and attach the frame to the drywall using auger anchors. This frame is temporarily leaning against the wall in The Han’s room until I decide where I want to hang it.

Wow!

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0607

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0608

Framed Multi Organizer DSCN0609

This multi-organizer can be customized for a boy, as well, and is fabulous for organizing homework and artwork! Have any questions about the famed multi organizer? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build an Easy and Awesome Crate

Free DIY Woodworking Plans for a Plywood Multi-Use Crate

Looking for a quick and easy weekend project? I’ve got just the project for you! A multitude of these crates can be whipped out in a weekend… Use them for storing logs by the fireplace, books and magazines, corral wayward school supplies, etc. Plus, in true DbSC form, they are virtual blank slates to be finished however you choose – why not use pallet boards for the front and back pieces? Or maybe sand, distress, then stencil the crate? How about leaving the wood in its natural color then applying paste wax to protect it? The possibilities are endless and I plan on constructing a few of these beauties for myself!

free DIY woodworking plans for a plywood multi use crate_Copy

Materials:

  • 1″ brad nails
  • Wood glue
  • 1″ hole saw or spade bit
  • Jigsaw
  • Finishing supplies

Lumber:

  • 1 full sheet of 1/2″ plywood should yield three crates (another project perfect for PureBond plywood!!)

Cut List:

  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 15-1/4″ x 20-1/2″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 11″ x 15-1/4″ – Sides
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 11″ x 22-1/2″ – Front & Back
  • 2 – 1/2″ plywood at 3-1/2″ x 16-1/4″ – Bottom Runners

free DIY woodworking plans for a plywood multi use crate

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the piece for the bottom. Using a table saw, cut a 2 degree bevel in each shorter end. This will allow the sides to sit at an angle and match the angle of the front and back pieces.

free DIY woodworking plans for a plywood multi use crate_Bottom 

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut a 2 degree angle in the bottom edges. Mark the position for the handles. They will measure 1″ high by 6″ wide on center (actual measurement including “circles” will measure 7″). Using the 1″ hole saw or spade bit, cut two 1″ circles. Connect the circles at the top and bottom by drawing a line, then cutting along the line with a jigsaw. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1″ brad nails.

free DIY woodworking plans for a plywood multi use crate_Sides 

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front and back as shown. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1″ brad nails.

free DIY woodworking plans for a plywood multi use crate_Front & Back 

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the bottom runners. Attach to the bottom of the crate using glue and 1″ brad nails.

free DIY woodworking plans for a plywood multi use crate_Feet 

Finish as desired!

Put these free DIY woodworking plans for a plywood Multi-Use Crate to good use – these are fabulous crates to use for firewood, coralling toys, or even laundry!  Do you plan on building a crate or two? Share it with me when you’re finished!! I’d love to see the final results – cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com




A Super-Simple to Build Ledge Shelf

DIY Plans to Build a Square Ledge Shelf

I will admit it… I love shelving – both building it and using it! Shelves are some of the easiest pieces to build and the DIY plans to build a Square Ledge Shelf are no different! The shelves feature a box frame, a flat top, and hang on the wall with a cleat! Trust me, it doesn’t get any quicker or easier! Plus, the plans are easy to customize for a longer or shorter shelf!

DIY Plans to Build a Square Ledge Shelf_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-1/2″ screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 2′
  • 1 – 1×4 at 4′
  • 1 – 1×6 at 2′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1×4 at 4-1/4″ – Box Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1×4 at 23″ – Box Frame Front
  • 1 – 1×6 at 24″ – Top
  • 1 – 1×2 at 21-1/4″ – Cleat

DIY Plans to Build a Square Ledge Shelf

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the box frame sides and the box frame front. Secure the sides to the front using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Square Ledge Shelf_Frame

Step Two

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang by 1/2″ at the sides and front, and will be flush with the back edge of the sides. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Square Ledge Shelf_Top

Finish as desired.

Step Three

Cut the piece for the cleat to length. Secure the cleat to the wall studs, where the shelf will be hung, using 2-1/2″ screws. Position the shelf on top of the cleat and secure in place with 1-1/2″ screws through the top into the top edge of the cleat.

DIY Plans to Build a Square Ledge Shelf_Cleat

The DIY plans to build a Square Ledge Shelf are perfect for those new to woodworking as it uses straight off-the-shelf lumber to create. The shelf is an excellent piece for any room and will certainly fit in with any decor whether painted, stained, stenciled or distressed! Have any questions about the shelving plans? Leave a comment below!




A Mounted Faux Deer Head Gets a New Backdrop

Build a Framed Brick Panel

I’m still in the midst of finishing my daughter’s “new” bedroom (big brother’s old room) and decided that her faux deer head, Felipe Hornsworth the First needed a makeover so he wouldn’t get lost on the wall (see how I made Felipe here). With a few scraps left from the remodel, I chose to build a framed brick panel to use as a back drop for Felipe. this frame is built exactly like the framed dorm mirror but sized to fit a piece of the leftover brick paneling.

build-a-framed-brick-panel

build-a-framed-brick-panel-angled-view

Materials:

  • Wood Glue
  • Fast-drying adhesive such as DAP® Rapid Fuse
  • 1/2″ screws
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools Needed:

  • Miter saw
  • Circular Saw or Jigsaw
  • Drill
  • Sander

Lumber:

  • Scrap 1x4s
  • 3/4″ square dowel rods
  • 1″ square dowel rods
  • Scrap piece of MDF brick paneling

Notes about the project:

There is no cut list for the lumber because you will determine the size of the frame you want. The scrap piece of brick paneling I used measured 14-1/4″ x 22-1/2″ and I built the frame around it.

Instead of using square dowels, I ripped the trim pieces from a scrap 1×4. Only do this if you are comfortable cutting narrow pieces on a table saw.

The plans for the dorm mirror frame can be found here.

Step One

Determine the size of the center panel. Cut two pieces of 1×4 the same height as the panel and two pieces of 1×4 at the same length plus 7″ (3-1/2″ for each 1×4). Assemble the base frame according to the plans.

build-a-framed-brick-panel-base

Step Two

Cut the pieces of 3/4″ square dowels to fit the inner part of the frame. I used mitered corners. The pieces can be butted against each other, as well. The pieces will extend 1/4″ past the front face of the frame leaving a 1/4″ inset on the back. This will allow the center panel to fit flush with the frame.

build-a-framed-brick-panel-inner-trim

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the outer edge of the frame from the 1″ square dowels. The back face of the dowel trim will fit along the outside edges of the frame and will be flush with the back face of the frame.

build-a-framed-brick-panel-outer-trim

Step Four

Finish the frame as desired. I used a dark brown stain with two coats of a satin polyurethane.

Position the panel in the center of the frame on the inset created by the 3/4″ trim. Secure the panel in place using 1/2″ screws.

build-a-framed-brick-panel-plain

I drove a brad nail through the center panel then hung Felipe on the nail. any type of artwork would be fabulous in the frame – a canvas, a wood sign or even a smaller frame with a sentimental photo. (The plans for the bed can be found here!)

build-a-framed-brick-panel-completed

Have any questions about how to build a framed brick panel? Leave a comment below!




How to Make a Pottery Barn Teen Inspired Hair Accessories Storage

The Hair Accessories Storage piece from PB Teen is so cute! $99.00 seems kind of steep so I figured I could hack it and make one myself! It cost me nothing… the plywood I used was sheathed around two sheets of walnut plywood I special ordered so it was free! (I’m sure I paid for it somewhere!)

DSCN0454 2 Hair Accessories Storage

Today, I’ll show how I built this and include the plans I drew up in case you’d like to build one for yourself or as a gift! We all know that Christmas is right around the corner and this would make a great gift!

I used plywood for the body and glue with 1-1/4″ brad nails to hold it all together! I omitted the drawer as I thought it might be a little too frustrating complicated to build correctly! Click on the pictures of the drawings for a larger view.

Hair Station Hair Accessories Storage

 

Materials:

  • 1/2″ plywood (Quarter sheet)
  • Glue
  • Brad nailer & 1″ brad nails
  • Jigsaw, Table saw, and/or Miter Saw
  • Square & a pencil
  • Tape Measure
  • Drill & 1″ paddle bit
  • Hole saws – 3.5″, 2.5″, 2″

Begin by cutting the pieces as follows:

  • 2 @ 7″ x 9″ – Sides
  • 1 @ 4″ x 11″ – Top
  • 1 @ 6″ x 12″ – Front
  • 1 @ 7-1/2″ x 11″ – Large Divider
  • 1 @ 2-1/2″ x 4-1/2″ – Small Divider
  • 1 @ 7″ x 11″ – Bottom
  • 1 @ 9″ x 12″

It is a whole lot easier to sand each piece before assembly. I start with 80 grit, then 120 grit, and finish with 220 grit.

DSCN0411 Hair Accessories Storage

Cut the pieces for the bottom and both dividers. I drew a line on the bottom piece 4″ from the back for placement of the larger divider. Attach the divider to the bottom with glue and 1″ brad nails.

DSCN0412 Hair Accessories Storage

Hair Station_Bottom Hair Accessories Storage

Mark the placement of the smaller divider and draw lines on the bottom as well as on the larger divider to center the pieces. (See the drawing above for placement measurements). Secure with glue and 1″ brad nails.

DSCN0414 Hair Accessories Storage

Hair Station_Dividers Hair Accessories Storage

Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut a 3″ long x 2-1/2″ wide notch in each side (see drawing).

Hair Station_Sides 1 Hair Accessories Storage

To cut the arch in the bottom, I clamped the sides together and drew lines where the cuts would be made. I used a paddle  bit to drill a circle where I wanted the curved part of the arch to go.

DSCN0415 Hair Accessories Storage

DSCN0416 Hair Accessories Storage

Using the paddle bit, I started to drill the holes at the mark I made until the pointed part of the bit went through both pieces. I then flipped the pieces over and continued drilling the hole from the other side. I get a lot less tearout by cutting holes this way…

DSCN0417 Hair Accessories Storage

DSCN0418 Hair Accessories Storage

DSCN0419 Hair Accessories Storage

I used the jigsaw to cut the lines where they intersected with the holes.

DSCN0420 Hair Accessories Storage

I then sanded any rough edges and attached the sides to the dividers as shown in the drawing.

DSCN0421 Hair Accessories Storage

Hair Station_Sides 2 Hair Accessories StorageI repeated the arch-cutting process for the front and the back, then sanded any rough edges. I attached the front and back using glue and 1″ brad nails.

DSCN0422 Hair Accessories Storage

Hair Station_Back Hair Accessories Storage

Hair Station_Front Hair Accessories StorageBefore I worked on the final piece, I painted the inside. It didn’t have to be perfect but since the inside would be visible through the holes, I thought it might be a good idea to paint at least one coat on it!

I marked the placement for the holes in the top by drawing a horizontal line across the board and lining up the hole saws until I was happy with the spacing.

DSCN0427 Hair Accessories Storage

Hair Station_Holes Hair Accessories Storage

I used three different sized hole saws (3-1/2″, 2-1/2″, 2-1/8″) and a scrap board underneath. I started drilling from one side, then flipped the board over to finish the hole – this helps reduce tearout.

DSCN0428 Hair Accessories Storage

DSCN0429 Hair Accessories Storage

DSCN0430 Hair Accessories Storage

I inserted the top piece, and held it in place so it was flush with the top of the sides, dividers, and back. I secured it to the box with 1″ brad nails. I filled in the nail holes and edges with Dry Dex, and sanded the entire piece with 220 grit sandpaper.

DSCN0431 Hair Accessories Storage

 I painted the entire piece with Behr Ultra Premium Plus in  Ultra Pure White Satin. Once it was dry, I sealed it with Rust-Oleum Ultimate Polyurethane in Matte Soft Touch. I had a hard time finding the perfect letter “H” for the front… I finally settled on a metal letter and glued it to the front with a couple dabs of Liquid Nails.

DSCN0447 Hair Accessories Storage

DSCN0454 Hair Accessories Storage

This is an easy project perfect for those new to project or furniture building, and can be completed in a weekend! have any questions about the hair accessories storage? Leave a comment below!

 




DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Simple Mirror Frame

An Easy to Build Frame For an Inexpensive Mirror

My daughter has one of the inexpensive $5 mirrors in her room (I call them “dorm mirrors”). Every time I walked by her room and saw that mirror, I would remind myself to build a new frame for it so it didn’t look so cheap! Since we are remodeling Big Brother’s room for her to move into, I figured it would be the perfect time to build the frame. The DIY furniture plans to build a simple mirror frame are just that – simple! The frame has a 1×4 base with a trim profile along the inside and outside edges. The mirror fits inside the inner opening, and a 1/4″ piece of plywood keeps the mirror in place. I knocked this frame out in about two days plus, it matches the letter jewelry hanger I made for her room!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Simple Mirror Frame - Completed View

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Simple Mirror Frame - Close Up Corner

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • Fast-drying adhesive
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools needed:

  • Miter saw or circular saw
  • Table saw, optional
  • Drill
  • Pocket hole jig

Lumber:

  • 4 – 1×4 at 6′ OR
  • 2 – 1×4 at 6′
  • 3 – 1″ square dowels
  • 3 – 3/4″ square dowels
  • 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 1×4 at 19″ – Frame Base
  • 2 – 1×4 at 47-3/4″ – Frame Base
  • 2 – 3/4″ square pieces at 12″ – Inner Trim
  • 2 – 3/4″ square pieces at 47-3/4″ – Inner Trim
  • 2 – 3/4″ x 1″ pieces at 20-1/2″ – Outer Trim
  • 2 – 3/4″ x 1″ pieces at 56-1/4″ – Outer Trim
  • (If using 1″ square dowels, they will be cut to the same length as the 3/4″ x 1″ pieces.)
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 12″ x 47-3/4″ – Back

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Simple Mirror Frame

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes about the project:

I ripped the trim pieces from a 1×4. If you are not comfortable enough to safely rip pieces this narrow on a table saw, use square dowels instead. Most home improvement stores sell them in 3′ or 4′ lengths.

The mirror I used measured 12″ x 47-3/4″ without the frame. Measure the mirror you are using before cutting any of the pieces and adjust the plan accordingly.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the frame base. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Simple Mirror Frame -frame-base

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the inner trim (3/4″ square). Each piece will have a 45° miter at each end. Make marks on the inside edge of the frame 1/4″ from the back. This will allow the trim to create a 1/4″ inset on the back of the frame and maintain a 1/4″ profile on the front. Secure the trim pieces along the inner edge of the frame base using a fast-drying adhesive and clamp in place until dry.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Simple Mirror Frame -inner-trim

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the outer trim (3/4″ x 1″ OR 1″ square dowels). Each piece will have a 45° miter at each end. Secure the trim pieces along the outer edge of the frame base using a fast-drying adhesive and clamp in place until dry.

Finish the frame as desired. I used a coat of stain in Kona and finished with two coats of satin polyurethane.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Simple Mirror Frame -outer-trim

Step Four

Insert the mirror in the inset on the back of the frame. Cut the 1/4″ plywood to fit, then secure in place using washers and screws (I used soda can tabs – see photo!) or duct tape.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Simple Mirror Frame -back

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Simple Mirror Frame - soda-can-tab

Add a hanger to the back of the frame if desired. My daughter’s mirror will just lean against the wall.

Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a simple mirror frame? Leave a comment below – I’m here to help!




Directional Framed Chalkboard for the Power Tool Challenge

DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard

This month’s project for the Power Tool Challenge is something Fall-ish… It is so hard to believe that Fall is knocking on the door! While my project isn’t exactly Fall-ish, it is something I plan to use it for our annual Halloween shindig. Plus, it can also be used on virtually any holiday, party, or just as a decoration! The angles are easy to cut (nothing super-fancy here) and this project can be completed in a day. (For the record, there is nothing wrong with the chalkboard itself in the photo – my daughter leaned against it while helping me photograph it and I didn’t notice it!)

DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard_Featured

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • Sandpaper (80 grit, 120 grit, 220 grit)
  • Paint or stain of choice
  • Chalkboard paint
  • Paint brushes
  • Hanging hardware or a French Cleat

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×4 at 6′
  • 1 – 3/4″ square dowel at 4′ (or 2 at 3′)
  • 1 – 2′ x 2′ sheet of 1/2″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 1 – 1/2″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 22-1/2″ – Chalkboard
  • 1 – 3/4″ square dowel at 19-1/4″ – Narrow Frame Top
  • 1 – 3/4″ square dowel at 23-1/4″ – Narrow Frame Side
  • 1 – 1×4 at 7″ – Arrow Head
  • 1 – 1×4 at 7-1/2″ – Arrow Tail
  • 1 – 1×4 at 22-3/4″ – Arrow Frame
  • 1 – 1×4 at 26-3/4″ – Arrow Frame

DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the piece for the chalkboard itself. With the pocket hole jig set for 1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood.

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the narrow frame from the 3/4″ dowels. Cut a 45° miter in one end of each piece – the other end will remain square. Secure the dowel pieces to the 1/2″ plywood using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the plywood will be flush with the back faces of the dowels.

DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard_Frame & Board

DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard_Narrow Frame

Step Three

Cut the pieces to length for the head and the tail. For the head, draw a line across the center of the board, then draw lines from this point to the opposite end. Cut 45° angles in each side.

For the tail, this takes a few more fancy lines… Refer to the drawing for the placement of the lines, or my photo for a visual!

DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard_Head & Tail

DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard_Tail Marking

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the arrow side and bottom, Cut a 45° miter in one end of each piece and the other end will remain square like the dowels. Drill pocket holes in the straight ends of each piece, as well as the mitered end of one piece. Assemble the arrow portion of the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. I placed the pocket holes in the miter too close together and had to add a third hole!

Secure the head and tail to the corresponding ends using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard_Arrow 1

DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard_Miter

DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard_Arrow Tail

DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard_Arrow Head

Step Five

Secure the arrow portion of the frame to the chalkboard. As you can see in the photo, I cut my pieces a tad too short so I had to cut a 45° miter in the 3/4″ dowels so that the arrow portion of the frame would fit. Use glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, and position the frame so that the back face is flush with the back face of the chalkboard (even with the narrow portion of the frame).

DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard_Arrow 2

DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard_Arrow Tail Frame

DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard_Arrow Head Frame

Finish the frame as desired. I forgot to photograph this step but I stained the frame first. Once the stain and sealer were dry, I taped off the edges of the frame and used the chalkboard paint. I applied three coats, lightly sanding between coats.

DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard_Finished

The cool thing about the chalkboard paint is that it doesn’t just have to be black… There are chalkboard products that can be tinted to a wide variety of colors and there is a clear chalkboard coating that is applied over paint!

DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard_Completed

Here are some of the other super-cool projects from the Power Tool Challenge:


The DIY Arrow Frame Chalkboard is an easy project that looks so fabulous in any room. Have any questions? Leave a comment below!

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