An Easy Plan to Build a Chair for the Outdoors

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair

As the weather gets warmer (and I work on more projects outside my own home), I am looking forward to relaxing outside on fabulous furniture I’ve built myself! The DIY furniture plans to build a Modern Outdoor Chair are really simple… The chair features clean lines and is also sized for an off-the-shelf 24″ x 24″ seat cushion (or you can make your own). The plan for this chair is perfect for those new to woodworking and furniture building, and several can be completed in a weekend!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair - Copy

Materials:

  • 3″ screws rated for outdoor use (I love using star-drive exterior screws!)
  • 2″ brad nails rated for outdoor use
  • Wood glue rated for outdoor use
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Tools Needed:

  • Miter saw or Circular saw
  • Drill (with a bit appropriate for the head of the screws used)
  • Countersink bit
  • Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor
  • Sander

Lumber:

If the chair is being used outdoors, pressure treated lumber is recommended

  • Scrap of 1×2 at 24″
  • 4 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 4 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 2×3 at 6′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 23″ – Legs
  • 2 – 2×2 at 25-1/2″ – Side Frame
  • 2 – 2×2 at 22-1/2″ – Side Frame
  • 1 – 2×2 at 24″ – Upper Back
  • 2 – 2×3 at 24″ – Upper Back
  • 2 – 1×3 at 24″ – Back & Front Stretchers
  • 2 – 2×2 at 24″ – Side Seat Supports
  • 1 – 1×2 at 24″ – Center Seat Support
  • 8 – 1×3 at 24″ – Seat Slats
  • 1 – 1×3 (ripped to 1-5/8″ wide) at 24″ – Rear Seat Slat

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Notes about the project:

The entire chair is constructed using countersunk screws. The holes can be filled with plugs (that can be made using a plug cutter on a scrap of wood matching the chair). The chair can also be constructed using pocket hole screws.

Step One

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side framing. Mark the position of the screws at each end of the longer 2×2 pieces (the arms) and pre-drill the holes. Secure the longer 2x2s to the top of the legs using glue and countersunk 3″ screws.

Mark the position for the lower 2x2s on the legs and pre-drill the holes. Secure the lower side stretcher to the legs using glue and countersunk 3″ screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair - Side Frame

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the upper back. Mark the position of the 2×2 upper back piece and pre-drill the holes in each side frame (trying to avoid the screw from the upper side piece into the leg!). Secure the upper back piece using glue and countersunk 3″ screws.

Secure the 2×3 pieces in the same manner, spacing them approximately 1-1/2″ apart. Use two screws in each end of the wider pieces!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair - Upper Back

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the 1×3 back and front stretchers. The outside faces of the stretchers will be flush with the outside faces of the legs. Mark the position on the legs for each piece and pre-drill the holes for the screws (two for each end of each piece). Secure the stretchers using glue and countersunk 3″ screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair - Rear Stretcher

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair - Front Stretcher

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the side seat supports. These supports will fit between the front and back stretchers. The bottom of the seat supports will be flush with the bottom of the stretchers making them approximately 3/4″ lower than the stretchers. Pre-drill the holes (the screws do not have to be countersunk) and secure the supports to the legs using glue and 3″ screws.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair - Side Seat Support

Step Five

Cut the piece for the center seat support. Secure the center seat support to the front and back stretchers using glue and countersunk 3″ screws. The bottom edge of the center seat support will be flush with the bottom edge of the stretchers.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair - Center Seat Support

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Note that the rear slat is narrower than the other slats. This will be hidden by the seat cushion anyway! Secure the slats to the side and center supports using glue and 2″ brad nails spacing them approximately 1/4″ apart.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Modern Outdoor Chair - Seat Slats

Finish the chair as desired.

I’ve recently discovered solid exterior stain and it would be awesome for a project like this! Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Modern Outdoor Chair? Leave a comment below – I would be happy to answer!




Build a Landon Desk

Build a Gorgeous Desk with the DIY Landon Desk Plans

This is one of the most beautiful desks ever… Don’t let the angled shelves and legs be intimidating – it is really easy to cut them! The DIY Landon desk plans feature two shelves plus a drawer in each leg assembly. The top is created with a plywood base edged by solid wood so that a decorative edge can be cut with a router. Give this desk build a try… It is surprisingly easy!

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 2 – 21″ bottom mount drawer slides (like these)
  • 2 – Cabinet pulls
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of plywood

Cut List:

  • 8 – 2×2 at 30″ – Legs
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-5/8″ x 24″ – Shelf 4
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 6″ x 24″ – Drawer Cubby Sides
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-3/4″ x 11-13/16″ – Drawer Cubby Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11-5/16″ x 24″ – Shelf 3 (Drawer Cubby Top)
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 8-5/16″ x 24″ – Shelf 2
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-15/16″ x 24″ – Shelf 1
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 27″ x 61″ – Top Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 27″ – Top Side Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 64″ – Top Front & Back Trim
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-1/2″ x 18-1/2″ – Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 18-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 9″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-1/2″ x 11-1/2″ – Drawer Fronts

DIY Landon Desk Plans

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly!

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut a 10° angle in each end. The angles will face the same direction (see drawing).

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for Shelf 4 and cut a 10° bevel in each long edge. The bevels will face toward each other so that if you are looking at the end of the piece, the side edges slant to the center of the piece. Secure Shelf 4 to the legs as shown using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws. Install the cabinet half of the drawer slides on Shelf 4 according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating the slide 3/4″ back from the front edge of Shelf 4 to allow for the drawer front.

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Shelf 4-2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the drawer cubby sides. Cut a 10° bevel in each long edge with the bevels facing the same direction (opposite each other). Secure the pieces to the legs and Shelf 4 using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The nails will be applied through the side pieces into the legs, and through the bottom of Shelf 4 into the bottom of the sides.

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Sides 1

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Sides 2

 

Step Four

Now is a great time to fit the drawer slides and the drawer boxes because once the top and back are on the drawer cubby, there will be no way to adjust the pieces! Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Cut the notch in the back piece as shown. Secure the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws locating the bottom 3/8″ up from the bottom of the sides. Secure the front and back of the drawer boxes. The drawer slides should already be installed in the cabinet (see Step Two). Install the other half of the slide on the drawer, then check the fit of the drawer.

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Drawer Back

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Drawer BS

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Drawer FB

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the drawer cubby back. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each angled edge. Secure the back to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The pocket holes will face out which will make it much easier to secure the screws!

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Back 1

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Back 2

Step Six

Cut the pieces for Shelf 3 and cut a 10° bevel in each long edge. The bevels will face each other – the same way as they do on Shelf 4. Attach Shelf 3 to the top of each of the drawer cubbies securing in place with glue and2-1/2″ countersunk screws through the legs, and 1-1/4″ brad nails through Shelf 3 into the sides.

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Shelf 3-2

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for Shelf 1 and Shelf 2, and cut a 10° bevel in each long edge. Secure Shelf 1 and Shelf 2 to the legs as shown using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws.

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Shelves 1 & 2-1

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Shelves 1 & 2-2

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the top panel and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter trim pieces as well as all four edges of the top panel. Secure the trim pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Place the top face down on a flat surface and position the leg assemblies as shown. Mark the position for the legs. Secure the leg assemblies in place using glue and 1-1/4″ countersunk screws.

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Top 1

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Top 2

 

 

 

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Install the drawer box. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Drawer Fronts 1

 

DIY Landon Desk Plans-Drawer Fronts 2

Finish as desired!

The style of this desk will work in any space – home office, family room, kid or teen’s room, etc. The desk would also be great with any finish such as stain, “weathered”, or paint! Have any questions about the DIY Landon desk plans? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Beautiful Ames Chest

Plans to Build the Ames Chest

This is such a nice chest and if my home wasn’t already bursting at the seams from furniture overload, I would definitely build it! I love these plans to build the Ames Chest – especially the different size drawers and the way they are staggered. It would be such a nice compliment to any decor!

plans to build the ames chest_copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • Six sets of 12” drawer slides
  • Six drawer knobs or handles
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • Two – 2×2 at 6’
  • One – 2×3 at 6’
  • Two – 1×2 at 6’
  • Three – 1×6 at 8’
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood

Cut List:

  • Four  – 2×2 at 31-1/4” – Legs
  • Two – 1×2 at 13-1/2” – Side Frames
  • Two – 2×3 at 13-1/2” – Side Frames
  • Two – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Side Panels
  • Four – 1×2 at 23-1/2” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
  • Two – 2×3 at 23-1/2” – Back Frame & Front Stretcher
  • One – 3/4” plywood at 22-1/2” x 23-1/2” – Back Panel
  • Three – ¾” plywood at 7” x 14” – Dividers
  • One – ¾” plywood at 16” x 27-1/2” – Top
  • Six – 1×6 at 6” – Small Drawer Boxes
  • Six – 1×6 at 14-3/4” – Large Drawer Boxes
  • Twelve – 1×6 at 10-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • Three – 1/4″ plywood at 6″ x 12″ – Small Drawer Bottoms
  • Three – 1/4″ plywood at 12″ x 14-3/4″ – Large Drawer Bottoms
  • Three – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 6-3/4” – Small Drawer Fronts
  • Three – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 15-1/2” – Large Drawer Fronts

plans to build the ames chest

Notes:

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

1. Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Drill pocket holes around the side panels as shown as well as in each end of the frame pieces. Attach the panels to the frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel should be flush with the back of the frame pieces.

Attach the panel and frame assembly to the legs using glue and pocket hole screws. Use 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws through the panels and upper frame pieces, and 2″ pocket hole screws through the lower frame piece.

plans to build the Ames Chest 2

 

2. Cut the pieces for the back and back frame pieces. Assemble in the same manner as the side panels, using the proper screws in the corresponding pieces.

plans to build the Ames Chest 3

3.  Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Attach the top 1×2 with the pocket holes facing up and the remaining 1×2 pieces with the pocket holes facing down. The 2×3 piece will have the pocket holes facing to the inside. Use glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws in the 1×2 pieces, and 2″ pocket hole screws in the 2×3 piece.

 plans to build the Ames Chest 4

4. Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers. Drill the pocket holes as shown. Attach to the front stretchers and the cabinet back at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

plans to build the Ames Chest 5

5. Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the top into the sides, back, legs, and upper stretcher. The top will overhang the front and sides by 1/2″.

plans to build the Ames Chest 6

6. Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms and attach using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

plans to build the Ames Chest 7

plans to build the Ames Chest 9

 

7. Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. For an another easy tutorial, click here. Attach the drawer hardware.

 plans to build the Ames Chest 10

Finish the piece as desired! The plans to build the Ames Chest are very easy and perfectly geared toward any skill level. Any questions or are you stuck on the plan? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com! I awould be glad to help!

#furnitureplans #woodworkingplans #diy




A Bench Perfect for an Entryway or Mudroom

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee

This settee is the perfect option for storage in an entryway or mudroom. The DIY plans to build a Storage Settee features a high back with coat hooks, as well as three drawers under the seat. The plans for the settee are quick and easy, as well as fairly inexpensive.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2″ screws
  • 3″ screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 3 sets of 18″ drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • Coat hooks
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 7 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×4 at 6′
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×4 at 60″ – Back Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 18-1/2″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/4″ – x 18-1/2″ – Side Panels
  • 4 – 2×2 at 51″ – Back Framing & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 10-1/4″ -x 51″ – Lower Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 51″ – Bottom
  • 2 – 2×2 at 10-1/4″ – Front Dividers
  • 2 – 2×2 at 18-1/2″ – Drawer Slide Spacers
  • 2 – 2×2 at 18-1/2″ – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/4″ x 51 – Seat Panel
  • 2 – 1×2 at 18-1/2″ – Seat Side Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 at 51″ – Seat Front & Back Trim
  • 2 – 2×2 at 20-1/2″ – Arms
  • 2 – 2×2 at 36″ – Upper Back Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 51″ – Upper Back Framing
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 16″ x 36″ – Upper Back Panels
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 13-1/2″ x 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 9″ x 16-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 9″ x 15″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 15-3/4″ – Drawer Fronts

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the 2×4 pieces for the back legs to length. Draw the legs on the 2×4 pieces, then cut out using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Back Legs

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the side framing and the front legs. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces as well as one end of the front legs. Secure the framing pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. The pocket holes in the front legs will face the back legs. Remember – there will be a right side and a left side!

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Position the panels inside the framing securing with glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the side framing.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Sides

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and the back framing. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers and the framing pieces. Secure the back framing to the back legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the back panel. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Position the panel inside the framing securing with glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the back framing.

Secure the front stretchers to the front legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Back

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Front Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the bottom panel to the lower framing and lower front stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Bottom

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the front dividers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the dividers. Secure the dividers to the front stretchers using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. A close-quarter drill or right angle attachment may be needed for the tight space.

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide spacers and drill pocket holes in one end only. Secure the spacers to the front dividers using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Secure the back of the spacers using countersunk 1-1/2″ screws through the back panel.

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the supports to the upper front stretcher and the upper back framing using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Front Dividers

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Drawer Slide Supports

 

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Seat Supports

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the seat panel and the seat trim. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure the trim as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Note that the side trim pieces are shorter than the seat panel. This will allow the front of the seat to overhang the frame.

Position the seat as shown securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the seat.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Seat 1

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Seat 2

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the arms. Cut a 3° angle in on end of each piece. This edge will be secured to the back legs using glue and countersunk 3″ screws through the back leg into the back of the arm. Secure the arm to the front legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. A close-quarter drill or right angle attachment may be needed for the tight space.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Arms 1

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Arms 2

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the back framing. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Secure the framing to the back legs using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the upper back panels. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the panels to the back framing as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The panels are positioned 1/4″ back from the front face of the back framing.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Back Framing

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Back Panels

Step Nine

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the front legs and dividers. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Drawer FB

Step Ten

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Storage Settee_Drawer Fronts

Finish as desired. Install the coat hooks on the back panels. The hooks are completely optional!

The settee would look great in any room, in any finish! the hooks and drawers make the settee the perfect place to store coats, backpacks, and shoes! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Storage Settee? Leave a comment below!




An Amazing Bookcase with Tons of Style!

DIY Plans to Build a Circle Bookcase

How can you not fall in love with this bookcase? I love the circle detail on the sides and trust me, they are very easy to create! The DIY plans to build a Circle Bookcase feature three circles on the sides with a straight board in between, three shelves and a roomy top. The half-circles pieces can be stacked and cut as multiples especially if you own a bandsaw. If not, the pieces can be stacked in two and cut with a jigsaw. This is a project that can definitely be completed in a weekend.

DIY Plans to Build a Circle Bookcase_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 5 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 4′
  • 2 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 2 – 1×6 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 12 – 1×6 at 14″ – Half Circles
  • 2 – 1×3 at 39-1/2″ – Inner Side Frames
  • 4 – 1×3 at 13-1/2″ – Outer Side Frames
  • 4 – 1×3 at 44-1/2″ – Outer Side Frames
  • 8 – 1×2 at 16″ – Shelf Frames
  • 8 – 1×2 at 34-1/2″ – Shelf Frames
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 34-1/2″ – Shelves
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 37″ – Top

DIY Plans to Build a Circle Bookcase

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces to length for the half circles. Print the template and tape the sheets together matching the registration marks. Cut the template with scissors and trace around the template on the 1×6 pieces. The pieces can be stacked and screwed (or hot glued) together so they can be cut apart in multiples. Use a jigsaw with a scrolling blade or a bandsaw with a 1/8″ blade. Thoroughly sand the pieces. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes as shown, the best way they will fit.

DIY Plans to Build a Circle Bookcase_Half Circle

Step Two

Cut the 1×3 pieces for the inner side frame and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the half-circle pieces to the 1×3 pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Circle Bookcase_Inner Side Frames

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the outer side frames and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Secure the pieces together to create the side panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

It may be easier to fill all of the pocket holes before assembly.

DIY Plans to Build a Circle Bookcase_Outer Side Frames

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the shelf frames. The frames can be assembled by drilling pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces and securing with glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, or by using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Secure the shelf frames to the side panels using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws positioning the frames so they are 1/2″ back from the side edges of the side panels.

DIY Plans to Build a Circle Bookcase_Shelf Frames 1

DIY Plans to Build a Circle Bookcase_Shelf Frames 2

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the shelves. The front and back of the shelves will be flush with the side edges of the side panels and will overhang the frames by 1/2″.

DIY Plans to Build a Circle Bookcase_Shelves

Step Six

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang by 1/2″ on all sides. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Circle Bookcase_Top

Finish as desired.

This bookcase would make an excellent addition to any room. It can also be used in a bathroom to store toiletries and clean towels! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Circle Bookcase? Leave a comment below!




How to Make DIY Art with Wallpaper

I saw the coolest wall decor in one of the high-end catalogs. I nearly choked on the price – $299.00!! Granted, the inspiration piece is described as being hand carved and is approximately 79″ long, but wow! I knew I could create something similar for a fraction of the cost!

I had some old door frames I built and never used. I figured they would make great wall art! The wallpaper I used is an awesome embossed and paintable pattern by Martha Stewart. Today, I’ll share my idea on creating this cool, decorative piece!

 

Materials:

  • Frame constructed of 1x3s
  • Piece of 1/4″ lauan, Hardboard, or plywood to cover the front of the frame
  • Brad nails or stapler
  • Decorative, paintable wallpaper
  • Spray adhesive
  • Paint & Sponge roller

Let’s get started!

Determine the size of your artwork. Most wallpaper is 20.5″ wide. The frame will need to be at least 2″ to 3″ narrower than the wallpaper to allow for the wallpaper to fold over the edges. Construct the frame as follows:

 

Cut the 1/4″ material to fit the top of the frame. Glue and nail or staple in place. A thorough sanding isn’t necessary – only sand the rough edges.

   

Cut the piece of wallpaper and lightly draw trace around the frame so it will be centered. Thoroughly spray the paper with adhesive.

Lay the piece face down on a flat surface and center the frame piece on top of it.

Flip it over and smooth out any air bubbles.

Start folding the sides of the paper over the frame, then fold over to the back.

     

Secure to the frame with tape or staples.

  

I chose to leave my artwork unpainted (I’m sure I’ll change my mind later)- it looks more like the inspiration piece!

If you want to paint yours, using a foam roller and paint, lightly paint over the raised parts of the wallpaper. Another idea would be to thoroughly paint the wallpaper, let it dry, then use a contrasting color over the raised parts. Add a sawtooth hanger to the back and enjoy the new artwork you created!

 

Until next time,

Happy Creating!

P.S. Sorry about some of the pics… I had to move my work table to the shade to avoid sunburn… Again!!