Build an August Queen Bed

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed

This is a plain, simple, and inexpensive bed. The DIY plans to build an August Queen bed are a platform style, which eliminates the need for box springs. (Box springs can be used but the bed will sit really high!) The plans are written for a queen size and easy alterations can be made for Full or King.

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ screws
  • 2-1/2″ screws
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 14 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 3 – 1×6 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 5 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×6 at 6′
  • 3 – 2×8 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 2 – 2×2 at 33″ – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – 2×2 at 59″ – Headboard Frame
  • 1 – 2×2 at 62″ – Headboard Frame
  • 1 – 2×6 at 59″ – Headboard Frame
  • 3 – 1×2 at 18″ – Headboard Frame
  • 3 – 1×6 (ripped to 4″ wide) at 58″ – Headboard Front
  • 2 – 2×2 at 13-1/2″ – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – 2×2 at 62″ – Footboard Frame
  • 1 – 2×6 at 59″ – Footboard
  • 3 – 2×8 (ripped to 7″ wide) at 79″ – Rails
  • 4 – 1×2 at 13″ – Center Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 79″ – Slat Supports
  • 40 – 1×3 at 28-3/4″ – Slats

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the headboard. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in one end of each leg, both ends of the 59″ frame piece, and each end plus one long edge of the 2×6 piece. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 pieces. Secure the 1×2 pieces to the 2×2 pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the 1×2 pieces will be flush with the back faces of the frame.

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Headboard 1

Step Two

Cut the 1×6 pieces (ripped to 4″ wide) for the headboard front. Secure to the 1×2 frame pieces as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. The screws can be placed through the front of the pieces or through the 1×2 pieces into the back of the front headboard pieces.

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Headboard 2

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the footboard. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in one end of the legs and both ends as well as one long edge of the 2×6 piece. Assemble the footboard using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Footboard

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the rails and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the headboard and footboard as shown using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue – the bed may have to be disassembled someday!

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Rails

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the center legs. Secure the legs to each side of the center rail (locating them 2-1/4″ down from the top edge of the center rail) using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Center Legs

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the slat supports. Secure to the inside of each of the side rails as well as each side of the center rail using countersunk 2-1/2″ screws. The supports will be positioned 3/4″ down from the top edge of the rails. DO NOT use glue!

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Slat Supports

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the slats. Secure to the slat supports (spacing them approximately 1-1/2″ apart) using countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. DO NOT use glue!

DIY Plans to Build an August Queen Bed-Slats

Finish as desired!

To change the width of the bed for Full or King, just change the length of all of the horizontal pieces – the headboard and footboard frames, as well as the slats. So easy! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build an August Queen bed? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




A Fabulous Easy to Build Chair for the Outdoors

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair

This easy to build chair can actually be used indoors or outdoors. The DIY plans to build an X Leg Chair feature side frames with an X detail, a slatted seat, and a slatted back. This chair would be fabulous with cedar as the seat and back, with treated pine framing that can be painted once the lumber dries. Several of these chairs can be built in a weekend!

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws for outdoor use
  • 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws for outdoor use
  • 1-1/4″ screws for outdoor use
  • 3″ screws for outdoor use
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 4 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 5 – 2×2 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 16-3/8″ – X Detail
  • 2 – 2×2 at 34-1/4″ – X Detail
  • 4 – 2×2 at 23-1/2″ – Side Framing
  • 4 – 2×2 at 29″ – Side Framing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 22″ – Bracing
  • 2 – 2×2 at 22″ – Seat Framing
  • 5 – 1×2 at 23-1/2″ – Seat Framing
  • 2 – 1×2 at 20-3/4″ – Side Back
  • 13 – 1×3 at 20-1/2″ – Back Slats & Seat Slats

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Cut the pieces for the X detail. Cut the angles at 44° as indicated in the drawing. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble the X using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the side framing. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the side framing using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws. Insert the X detail securing in place using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_X 1

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_X 2

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Side Framing

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the bracing. The bracing will be secured between the two side frames at the top edge of the back and at the center of each X. The pieces can be secured using 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws or countersunk 3″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Bracing

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the seat frame. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×2 pieces. Secure the 1×2 side pieces on end to the 2×2 pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the 1×2 support pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The side supports can be further secured to the side of the seat frame using countersunk 1-1/4″ screws. The bottom face of the supports will be flush with the bottom edge of the frame.

Secure the seat frame to the side frames using countersunk 3″ screws through the front and back legs into the seat frame. The seat frame will rest directly on the bracing piece between the X detail.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Seat Frame 1

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Seat Frame 2

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the side back. Cut a 5° angle in the lower edge of each piece and drill pocket holes in this edge treating the pieces as a left and a right. Secure the side back pieces to the seat frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The pieces will be positioned 2-1/2″ from the back edge of the seat frame and will rest on the upper bracing piece.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Back Side 1

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Back Side 2

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the back slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the slats to the side back pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws spacing the pieces 3/4″ apart. The front face of the slats will be flush with the front face of the side back pieces. The top edge of the top slat will be flush with the top edges of the side back.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Back Slats

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. The seat slats will be spaced 3/4″ apart and will be secured to the supports in the seat frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws.

DIY Plans to Build an X Leg Chair_Seat Slats

Finish as desired.

The entire chair can also be built from plain untreated pine as long as it is used indoors or on a covered porch area. have any questions about the DIY plans to build an X Leg Chair? Leave a comment below!




A Rustically Industrial Media Chest

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest

Need a media stand with plenty of storage for lots of media equipment? You’ve come to the right place! The DIY plans to build a River Crest Media Chest feature two shelves and three drawers which equal tons of storage! Plus, the entire stand is on casters which makes moving it a breeze! The media chest is an easy build and is very inexpensive!

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Copy

Materials:

  • 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4″ brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 3 sets of 14″ Drawer slides
  • Cabinet pulls
  • 4 – 4″ casters (two should be locking casters)
  • Wood glue
  • Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits)
  • Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 1×6 at 6′
  • 3 – 1×8 at 6′
  • 1 – 1×10 at 8′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 46″ – Shelves
  • 4 – 2×2 at 33-1/4″ – Legs
  • 2 – 1×2 at 15″ – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×2 at 43″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 1×10 at 15″ – Lower Sides
  • 1 – 1×10 at 43″ – Lower Back
  • 2 – 1×8 at 15″ – Upper Sides
  • 1 – 1×8 at 43″ – Upper Back
  • 1 – 1×10 (ripped to 8-1/4″ wide) at 16-1/2″ – Divider
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 46″ – Top
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 18-5/8″ – Small Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1×6 at 12-1/2″ – Small Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1×6 at 20-1/8″ – Small Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 40-1/2″ – Larger Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1×8 at 12-1/2″ – Large Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1×8 at 42″ – Large Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-1/4″ x 20-7/8″ – Small Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 9″ x 42-3/4″ – Large Drawer Front

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut the notches using a jigsaw. With a portable pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in the notches of each shelf as shown except two.

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Shelf

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the legs. Secure one of the shelves to the bottom end of each leg using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Legs

Step Three

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Set the remaining long stretcher off to the side.

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Stretchers 1

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the lower sides and back. Drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as one long edge of each piece. Secure the pieces to the legs and the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of these pieces will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Lower Sides

Step Five

Insert the shelf without pocket holes. Secure the shelf to the lower sides and back using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Lower Shelf

Step Six

Insert the middle shelf securing to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Middle Shelf

Step Seven

Insert the upper shelf and rest it on the middle shelf. Do not secure it to the legs yet!

Cut the pieces for the upper sides and back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the pieces to the stretchers and legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside faces of the sides and back will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Upper Sides

Step Eight

Move the upper shelf into position under the upper sides and back. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Upper Shelf

Step Nine

Install the remaining long stretcher using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the divider and cut the notch using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the back and lower edges. Secure the divider to the upper back and upper shelf using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Place a few brad nails through the stretcher into the divider.

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Stretcher

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Divider 1 DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Divider 2

Step Ten

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the stretchers and divider using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Top

Step Eleven

Cut the pieces for the small drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides and the divider. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Small Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Small Drawer FB

Step Twelve

Cut the pieces for the larger drawer box. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Large Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Large Drawer FB

Step Thirteen

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Drawer Fronts

Step Fourteen

Finish as desired. Install the casters according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

DIY Plans to Build a River Crest Media Chest_Casters

The media console would also make a great dresser  or even a sideboard in the entryway or dining room! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a River Crest Media Chest? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!




Build a Storage Ottoman on Casters

Free Plans to Build a Storage Ottoman on Casters

This is the perfect project for that urge to build something… The free plans to build a storage ottoman on casters are quick, cheap, and the ottoman is definitely useful! Who couldn’t use extra storage and a place to prop your feet? Plus it is a great way to use up a few scraps laying around!

Free Plans to Build a Storage Ottoman on Casters-Copy

Materials:

Lumber:

  • Scrap pieces of plywood or MDF OR
  • One – 2′ x 4′ sheet of plywood
  • One – 2′ x 2′ sheet of plywood

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood circles – 18″ in diameter – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 11″ x 17-3/4″ – Dividers

Free Plans to Build a Storage Ottoman on Casters

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Draw out the circles on the plywood. There are many ways to do this but I prefer the “string, thumbtack & pencil” method. Cut out using a jigsaw or saw of your choice. I cut mine on the bandsaw since I just learned how to use it! You could also build a jig for the bandsaw and cut the circles that way.

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the notches as shown using the saw of your choice. Sand all of the pieces thoroughly.

Free Plans to Build a Storage Ottoman on Casters_Dividers 1

Step Two

Assemble the dividers, then position the top and bottom. Attach to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Free Plans to Build a Storage Ottoman on Casters_Dividers 2

 

Step Three

Attach the circles (the top and bottom) to the dividers using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Free Plans to Build a Storage Ottoman on Casters_Top & BottomFinish as desired, then attach the casters to the bottom using 3/4″ screws. Prop up your feet and relax!!

I used 3/4″ MDF to make an ottoman like this and love it! the top can also be upholstered to make it more comfortable for your feet. This ottoman is also a great piece of extra seating! Have any questions about the free plans to build a storage ottoman on casters? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com.

 




Storing Fruits and Veggies in Style

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Fruit and Vegetable Bin

This month’s Power Tool Challenge theme is Spring… If it hasn’t yet “sprung” in your area, it will be shortly and with Spring comes thoughts of gardening. For us, that means a vegetable garden and I figured we’d need a place to store all of the fabulous fruits, veggies and herbs we plan on growing. The DIY furniture plans to build a Fruit and Vegetable Bin is a super-simple build featuring spindle legs, casters and mesh bottoms in each of the bins. In all honesty, this piece took longer to paint than it did to cut and assemble!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Fruit and Vegetable Bin - Finished Featured Image

Graphic

Materials:

Tools Needed:

Lumber:

  • 4 – 36″ spindles (I used treated spindles used for deck rails)
  • 1 – 1×8 at 4′
  • 1 – 1×8 at 8′

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1×8 at 11″
  • 4 – 1×8 at 18″

Step One

Cut the pieces for the bin boxes. Assemble the boxes using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails. The longer pieces will overlap the ends of the shorter pieces.

Install the angle braces at the center of each joint on the inside. The braces help keep each of the bins square since there is no ridgid bottom.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Fruit and Vegetable Bin - Bins Constructed

Step Two

The spindles will be cut down to accommodate the boxes. They can be used as is, if desired, but I felt there would be too much space between the boxes. I cut 3-1/4″ off of one end of the spindles (for the top box), and 4″ off of the lower end of the spindle to allow for the casters and a space to attach the lower box.

Drill a hole in the bottom end of the spindles to accommodate the caster sleeve. See the manufacturer’s instructions for bit size and depth of the hole.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Fruit and Vegetable Bin - Spindle Legs

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Fruit and Vegetable Bin - Holes in Ends of Legs

Step Three

Secure two of the legs to one of the boxes (with the top edges flush) using glue and 2″ brad nails through the spindle into the end of the longer pieces of the box.

Position the legs on the lower second box so they overhang by about 2-1/4″. Secure the lower portion of the legs to the box using glue and 2″ brad nails.

Secure the remaining two legs to the opposite side of the boxes.

Paint or stain the bin as desired. I chose not to paint the inside of the bins.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Fruit and Vegetable Bin - Fully Assembled

Step Four

Cut two pieces of hardware cloth at 17″ x 21″ (very important – wear gloves!). Cut a square out of each corner so that there won’t be any extra mesh in the corners. I forgot to measure the cuts at the corners but if you hold the mesh over the top of the box, it will be easy to determine what needs to be cut away. Fold the edges of the hardware cloth (approximately 1″ or 4 squares), then fold the sides into a basket-like shape so that the piece will fit inside the bin. Secure the hardware cloth in place with 1/2″ staples. A hammer can be used to flatten the fold at the top of the wire.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Fruit and Vegetable Bin - Wire Bin

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Fruit and Vegetable Bin - Inside View of Wire Bin

Install the casters.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Fruit and Vegetable Bin - Caster

I also added vintage drawer pulls (spray painted white) to the sides and a fabulous graphic from The Graphics Fairy.

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Fruit and Vegetable Bin - Handle Painted

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Fruit and Vegetable Bin - Handle Installed

Here are the projects from my fellow bloggers:

Chevron Wood Easter Egg by Kim Six Fix

Wooden Swing Shelf by Domestically Speaking

Wooden Easter Eggs by Create And Babble

Repurposed Easter Cross by Prodigal Pieces

Planter Box Centerpiece by Refresh Restyle

Upcycled Drawer Front Planter by Confessions of A Serial DIY’er

Rustic 3 Panel Wall Decor by Designed Decor

Key West DIY Wood Planter Box by H2OBungalow

Baseball Bookends by Virginia Sweet Pea

Chair Back Bird Feeder by Interior Frugalista

Wood Slice Rolling Plant Stand by My Repurposed Life

They always have the most awesome projects!

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Fruit and Vegetable Bin - Quarter View

DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Fruit and Vegetable Bin - Top View

If the bin is constructed entirely out of treated wood, it can be used as a planter… I may make that next! Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build a Fruit and Vegetable Bin? Leave a comment below!




Free Plans to Build a Crate and Barrel Inspired Brey Bookcase

This is the third piece in the collection – we’ve covered the Desk, as well as the File Cabinet and now we’re on to the bookcase!

This is a very easy build with minimal materials and it will be completed in no time!

Materials:

Lumber:

  • 4 – 1×2 at 8′
  • 4 – 2×2 at 8′
  • One sheet of 1/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 1×2 at 76-1/4″ – Legs
  • 10 – 2×2 at 14-1/2″ – Side Stretchers
  • 10 – 2×2 at 27″ – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 1/4″ plywood at 27-3/4″ x 74″ – Back

 

Click on the drawings to enlarge them!

 

1. Cut the pieces for the legs and the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Using a router with a 1/2″ rabbeting bit, cut a rabbet (3/8″ deep) in the top edge of each stretcher piece. The rabbets will hold the plexiglas shelves in place. Position the stretchers as shown, then attach in place using glue and 1-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

2. Cut the piece for the back. Attach to the back of the bookshelf using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Finish as desired!

 

If you’ve built anything using my plans, please share photos! I would love to feature your hard work on DbSC! Send me an email at designsbystudioc [at] gmail [dot] com!

 

Until next time, 

Happy Creating!!




Building a Custom Cabinet Part 2

How to Plan and Build a Custom Cabinet Part 2

Well, hello there! If you were here for How to Plan and Build a Custom Cabinet Part 1, we covered the measurements for the cabinet to be built, the cutting of the boards, and the assembly of both the cabinet and door. Today, I will be sharing How to Plan and Build a Custom Cabinet Part 2 which focuses on installing the door, the panel, and the hardware.

How to Plan and Build a Custom Cabinet Part 2 SANY1548

How to Plan and Build a Custom Cabinet Part 2 SANY1549

So we have the cabinet and door assembled, and now we’re ready to finish the cabinet!

I was going to use  satin polyurethane over the bare wood to match my kitchen cabinets. Rust-Oleum sent me a care package which included a couple of quarts of their Ultimate Wood Stain in Black Cherry… Swoon!!! I am in L.O.V.E! That stain is the most bee-yoo-tee-full shade! I am completely obsessed with a huge fan of Rustoleum’s Wood Care Products because they really deliver on quality! It is easy to apply (with no brush streaks), dries quickly, plus the polyurethanes create a nice, hard coat making my projects look really professional!

How to Plan and Build a Custom Cabinet Part 2 SANY1532  

How to Plan and Build a Custom Cabinet Part 2 SANY1533

Once the stain was dry, I sealed the cabinet with three coats of Rustoleum’s Ultimate Polyurethane in Soft Touch Matte.

When everything was dry, I measured the opening of the cabinet to allow for the chalkboard piece. I cut it at 15″ x 27″, then fastened it to the inside of the door with 1/2″ pan head screws. A mirror can also be added using mirror clips, or by routing a rabbet inside the frame so the mirror or whatever panel you choose will sit into it.

How to Plan and Build a Custom Cabinet Part 2 SANY1543

I attached the rack to the cabinet using screws through the rack braces. (The rack holds my many spools of embroidery thread that I’d like to hide!)

How to Plan and Build a Custom Cabinet Part 2 SANY1545

I drilled a hole in the door for the knob, then installed the hinges. (I am horrible at installing these types of hinges!) I also added a magnetic catch to keep the door closed. The catch is at the bottom so it won’t interfere with the thread on the rack.

How to Plan and Build a Custom Cabinet Part 2 SANY1546

 How to Plan and Build a Custom Cabinet Part 2 SANY1547

When I am ready, I will mount the cabinet to the wall by locating the studs, then inserting screws through the cabinet into the stud. It helps to make sure the cabinet is level before inserting the second screw!

The cabinet can be built to conceal basically anything – it can even conceal a fuse box providing the back is left off (and care is taken when attaching it to the wall).

Anyway, I hope this takes some of the intimidation out of cabinet-creating for those who are new to woodworking! Any questions about how to plan and build a custom cabinet part 2? Send me an email at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com and I would be glad to help!




A Dresser with Trim Detail on the Drawers

DIY Plans to Build a Providence Dresser

To me, a dresser can never have too many drawers… The DIY plans to build a Providence Dresser feature eight drawers with trim detail on each drawer front. The dresser is a very quick and easy build and will make a fabulous addition to any space!

DIY Plans to Build a Providence Dresser

Materials:

Lumber:

  • 1 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 3 – 1×2 at 10′
  • 1 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 2- 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1/4″ x 3/4″ stop for the trim on the doors (found in the moulding section of most home improvement stores)

Cut List:

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 34-5/16″ – Sides
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 51″ – Bottom
  • 7 – 1×2 at 51″ – Lower Supports & Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 32-1/16″ – Divider
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17-3/4″ x 54″ – Top
  • 1/4″ plywood at 32-13/16″ x 51-3/4″ – Back
  • 2 – 1×3 at 17″ – Lower Trim
  • 1 – 1×3 at 54″ – Lower Trim
  • 8 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 22-5/8″ – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 16 – 3/4″ plywood at 5″ x 12-1/2″ – Drawer Box Sides
  • 16 – 3/4″ plywood at 5″ x 24-1/8″ – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 8 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-7/8″ x 24-7/8″ – Drawer Front Base
  • 16 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ stop at 24-7/8″ – Drawer Trim
  • 16 – 1/4″ x 3/4″ stop at 5-7/8″ – Drawer Trim

DIY Plans to Build a Providence Dresser_Dims

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece. Secure the bottom to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Providence Dresser_Sides & Bottom

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the lower supports and the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure two of the pieces (the lower supports) to the sides under the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the lower stretchers to the sides above the bottom using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Providence Dresser_Lower Supports

DIY Plans to Build a Providence Dresser_Lower Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the piece for the divider. Cut the notches using a jigsaw and use a portable pocket hole jig to drill the pocket holes in each notch as well as in the bottom edge of the piece. Secure the divider to the bottom between the lower stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Secure the remaining stretchers to the sides and divider as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Providence Dresser_Divider 1

DIY Plans to Build a Providence Dresser_Divider 2

DIY Plans to Build a Providence Dresser_Stretchers

Step Four

Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front of the top will overhang by 3/4″. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Providence Dresser_Top

Step Five

Cut the piece for the back. Secure the back in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Providence Dresser_Back

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the lower trim. Secure the sides first using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails, then secure the front.

DIY Plans to Build a Providence Dresser_Trim

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them 1” back from the front edge of the sides. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Providence Dresser_Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Providence Dresser_Drawer FB

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the drawer front bases and the drawer front trim. Cut miters (45° angles) in each end of the trim pieces, securing the trim pieces to the drawer fronts using glue and 5/8″ brad nails.

Mark the position for the drawer pulls on the drawer fronts and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Providence Dresser_Drawer Fronts 1

DIY Plans to Build a Providence Dresser_Drawer Fronts 2

Finish as desired.

This dresser would be an excellent addition to a family room as a media stand, a kid’s room, or even in a dining room to store linens! The DIY plans to build a Providence Dresser are easy to build and are definitely suitable for those new to woodworking. Have any questions about the plans? Leave a comment below!




A Simply Beautiful Desk to Build

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk

This simply understated desk is super easy to build! The DIY plans to build a Mardell Writing Desk feature three drawers and trim under the top adding a bit of style! This desk is a project that can be completed in a weekend and would make a fabulous gift!

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk_Copy

Materials:

Lumber:

  • 3 – 1×4 at 8′
  • 4 – 2×2 at 8′
  • 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 2 – 3/4″ decorative trim at 8′ (or make your own)

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 29-1/4″ – Legs
  • 6 – 2×2 at 15″ – Side Framing
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-1/4″ x 15″ – Left Side Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 15″ – Right Side Panel
  • 5 – 2×2 at 45″ – Front & Rear Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 13″ x 18″ – Divider
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 18″ x 18-1/4″ – Drawer Bank Divider
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-1/4″ x 18-1/4″ – Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 5″ x 18-1/4″ – Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-1/4″ x 26″ – Back Panel
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 20″ x 50″ – Top
  • 2 – trim cut to fit – Ends Under Top
  • 2 – trim cut to fit – Sides Under Top
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 15-3/4″ – Smaller Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1×4 at 12-1/2″ – Smaller Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1×4 at 17-1/4″ – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 23-1/2″ – Larger Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1×4 at 12-1/2″ – Larger Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1×4 at 25″ – Larger Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 18″ – Drawer Front
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-3/4″ x 18″ – Drawer Front
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 4″ x 25-3/4″ – Drawer Front

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side framing pieces, the left side panel, and the right side panel. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the framing pieces. Assemble the side frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each panel. (Pocket holes are not shown in all four edges of the left side panel.) Secure the panels into each corresponding side frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside faces of the frames.

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk_Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the front and back stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Secure the stretchers to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk_Rear Stretchers

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk_Front Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the piece for the divider and cut the notches using a jigsaw. A small portable pocket hole jig will be needed to drill the pocket holes in the notches. Secure the divider to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk_Divider 1

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk_Divider 2

Step Four

Cut the piece for the drawer bank bottom. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in the side edges as shown. Secure the drawer bank bottom to the divider and right side frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk_Drawer Bank Bottom

Step Five

Cut the pieces for the back panels and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the back panels to the rear stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The inside face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the rear stretchers.

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk_Back Panels

Step Six

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang the desk frame by 1″ on all sides. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

There are no dimensions given for the trim that will be secured under the top. The length of each piece will depend on the style and whether the corners are mitered or butted against each other. Cut the trim pieces to fit, then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk_Top

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk_Trim

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs and divider. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk_Sm Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk_Sm Drawer FB

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk_Lg Drawer BS

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk_Lg Drawer FB

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

DIY Plans to Build a Mardell Writing Desk_Drawer Fronts

Finish as desired.

The desk would be the perfect piece for a little student or even as a craft desk! It would also look fabulous in an entryway or behind a sofa used as a console table. Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Mardell Writing Desk? Leave a comment below!




Build a Presley 5-Drawer Table

A Table That Mimics a Library Card Catalog – the Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans

I love little tables with lots of drawers and this little table is no exception! The Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans feature a total of five drawers – three smaller on top with two larger on bottom – and raised trim on the sides and back, as well as a large shelf at the bottom. This table can also do dual duty as an end table or a nightstand.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Copy

Materials:

Lumber:

  • 2 – 1×2 at 6′
  • 2 – 2×2 at 6′
  • 1 half sheet of 3/4″ plywood
  • 1 full sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List:

  • 4 – 2×2 at 27-1/4″ – Legs
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 13″ – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1×2 at 13″ – Lower Leg Stretchers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 10″ x 19-7/8″ – Back
  • 2 – 1×2 at 19-7/8″ – Lower Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1- 3/4″ plywood at 13″ x 19-7/8″ – Lower Shelf
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 19-7/8″ – Lower & Upper Drawer Shelves
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-1/4″ x 14-1/2″ – Lower & Upper Dividers
  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 17″ x 23-7/8″ – Top
  • 1 – 1×2 (ripped to 1″ wide) at 21-3/8″ – Top Back Trim
  • 2 – 1×2 (ripped to 1″ wide) at 16″ – Top Side Trim
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-1/2″ x 13″ – Smaller Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-3/16″ x 13″ – Smaller Drawer Sides
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-3/16″ x 6″ – Smaller Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 7-15/16″ x 13″ – Larger Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-3/16″ x 13″ – Larger Drawer Sides
  • 4 – 3/4″ plywood at 4-3/16″ x 9-7/16″ – Larger Drawer Front & Back

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side panels, and the lower leg stretchers. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers as well as the side edges of the panels. Secure the side panels to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back side of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Secure the lower leg stretchers as shown orienting the pocket holes so they face down. If it is a tight fit, a close-quarter drill or a right angle drill attachment may have to be used.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Sides

Step Two

Cut the pieces for the back panel and the lower front and back stretchers. Secure the back panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. The back side of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Secure the lower leg stretchers as shown orienting the pocket holes so they face down.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Back & Lower Stretchers

Step Three

Cut the piece for the bottom shelf and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the shelf to the lower stretchers using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Bottom Shelf

Step Four

Cut the pieces for the lower and upper shelves, as well as the lower and upper dividers. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the lower shelf only. Position the lower shelf as shown, then secure to the side panels, back panel, and legs using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Drill pocket holes in the lower edge of each of the dividers. Position the first divider on the lower shelf, and secure using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Lower Shelf

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Lower Divider

Step Five

Position the upper shelf on the lower divider as shown then secure to the sides, back, and lower divider using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Position the remaining two dividers on the upper shelf securing them in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Upper Shelf

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Upper Dividers

Step Six

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Cut the curve in the side trim pieces using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Secure the trim pieces to the top locating the trim pieces 1/2″ from each edge using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the bottom into the trim. Add a few brad nails to the side trim into the back trim.

Position the top on the cabinet so that 1/2″ overlaps on all sides. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Top Side Trim

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Top 1

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Top 2

Step Seven

Cut the pieces for the smaller drawers. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Sm Drawer BS

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Sm Drawer FB

Step Eight

Cut the pieces for the smaller drawers. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Lg Drawer BS

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Lg Drawer FB

Presley 5-Drawer Table Plans-Drawers

Finish as desired, and apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of each drawer to help it slide smoothly in the opening.

Although this project may seem intimidating to build given the number of drawers, it is relatively simple and would be the perfect first project! Have any questions about the Presley 5-drawer table plans? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!